Left low beam and tag marker lights stuck on

Left low beam and tag marker lights stuck on

This is a discussion on Left low beam and tag marker lights stuck on within the RAM 1500 Diesel Electrical forums, part of the RAM 1500 Diesel Garage - RAM 1500 Diesel Mechanics Corner category; I have had issues with this truck from day one with the lighting. The stock bulbs just plain do not cut it in projectors, this ...

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Thread: Left low beam and tag marker lights stuck on

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    RAM Jr Member BSP ECO-D's Avatar
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    Angry Left low beam and tag marker lights stuck on

    I have had issues with this truck from day one with the lighting. The stock bulbs just plain do not cut it in projectors, this is not news. I proceeded to install HIDs. The first version of TRS stand alone harness never played well with the truck. I then bought the second version stand alone harness which came with more load resistors. The new version played well with the truck for 18 months, then the friggin LH light quit working. I was promptly pulled over by a state trooper because of it, he was cool about it by the way. I turned the lights off and back on and he confirmed that the light had come back to life and on our separate ways we went. I pulled the light and found I had a bad load resistor, replace it and things were fine for a week or so. Now the next issue that cropped up was that not only would the LH light go out now the RH side was out too. I rechecked all the wiring and replaced the capacitor. No changes, it was then suggested that the cap may be installed backwards. I switched it and all hell broke loose.I can tell you that if the cap is in reverse polarity bad things happen. It was fine for the first few minutes so I thought all was well. I start tucking the passenger light back in and I hear a hissing noise, I look over at the driver side and the cap has erupted into smoke. I shut the truck and headlights off but this cap is still erupting and spewing its guts, thats when I notice the RH headlight is still lit. I cut the quick cut the cap out of the harness and catch my breath. At this point I know something bad has happened. I disconnect the battery and completely remove the stand alone lighting harness and all HID related components to return the lights to stock form. I reconnect the battery and cycle the truck on and off. At this point I only have the LH headlamp and license plate marker lights on, this is with the truck off and the headlight switch in the full off position. I do some research and figure I fried something in the TIPM so I bite the bullet and replace it. No change. I pulled my GDE ECM and swapped the stocker back in. No change. The only other thing I noticed is that my CTS2 is not powering down, I then set it in diagnostic mode to see if I have any codes. It will not communicate with the truck now. I hooked up my scan tool to verify this and had the same result, no communication with the truck. So now I've spent a lot of money on a TIPM I didn't need and am looking for the next component I need to swap out. I have become confused with all the research I've done as to whether there is a body control module as well as a TIPM or whether they are synonymous like the usage of ECM and PCM. My only other thought was the headlight switch itself but the CTS2 acting weird that should rule that out. I am so pissed that Ram is selling trucks with a 50+K price tag and crappy non HID/LED powered projectors. I've tried LED in them in the past, the output was just not there, they do work well with HIDs though. Not Audi/BMW good but a whole hell of a lot better than the stock bulbs, which is why this whole debacle took place. Anyone else with such a weird experience or ideas as to what is fried?
    15 Laramie Eco-D, Blue streak PC, 6'4" box with quad cab, trailer brake control, 3.92 rear gear with anti-spin, TRS HID kit, LED fogs, Zone 2.5" front level kit, AIRLIFT 5k auto level rear air bag set up, MB 20" vortex wheels w/Nitto TerraGrappler G2's 275/65/20, Adam's polishes - everything!

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    RAM Jr Member 007juice's Avatar
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    Left low beam and tag marker lights stuck on

    Quote Originally Posted by BSP ECO-D View Post
    I have had issues with this truck from day one with the lighting. The stock bulbs just plain do not cut it in projectors, this is not news. I proceeded to install HIDs. The first version of TRS stand alone harness never played well with the truck. I then bought the second version stand alone harness which came with more load resistors. The new version played well with the truck for 18 months, then the friggin LH light quit working. I was promptly pulled over by a state trooper because of it, he was cool about it by the way. I turned the lights off and back on and he confirmed that the light had come back to life and on our separate ways we went. I pulled the light and found I had a bad load resistor, replace it and things were fine for a week or so. Now the next issue that cropped up was that not only would the LH light go out now the RH side was out too. I rechecked all the wiring and replaced the capacitor. No changes, it was then suggested that the cap may be installed backwards. I switched it and all hell broke loose.I can tell you that if the cap is in reverse polarity bad things happen. It was fine for the first few minutes so I thought all was well. I start tucking the passenger light back in and I hear a hissing noise, I look over at the driver side and the cap has erupted into smoke. I shut the truck and headlights off but this cap is still erupting and spewing its guts, thats when I notice the RH headlight is still lit. I cut the quick cut the cap out of the harness and catch my breath. At this point I know something bad has happened. I disconnect the battery and completely remove the stand alone lighting harness and all HID related components to return the lights to stock form. I reconnect the battery and cycle the truck on and off. At this point I only have the LH headlamp and license plate marker lights on, this is with the truck off and the headlight switch in the full off position. I do some research and figure I fried something in the TIPM so I bite the bullet and replace it. No change. I pulled my GDE ECM and swapped the stocker back in. No change. The only other thing I noticed is that my CTS2 is not powering down, I then set it in diagnostic mode to see if I have any codes. It will not communicate with the truck now. I hooked up my scan tool to verify this and had the same result, no communication with the truck. So now I've spent a lot of money on a TIPM I didn't need and am looking for the next component I need to swap out. I have become confused with all the research I've done as to whether there is a body control module as well as a TIPM or whether they are synonymous like the usage of ECM and PCM. My only other thought was the headlight switch itself but the CTS2 acting weird that should rule that out. I am so pissed that Ram is selling trucks with a 50+K price tag and crappy non HID/LED powered projectors. I've tried LED in them in the past, the output was just not there, they do work well with HIDs though. Not Audi/BMW good but a whole hell of a lot better than the stock bulbs, which is why this whole debacle took place. Anyone else with such a weird experience or ideas as to what is fried?
    I ruined a CANBUS system by doing what you did. And thats what you pretty much did. It happened to me and it was out of sequence just as you described it. Believe it ir not all my dash was changed on a honda fit 2016 model because the lighting system is build into the damn dash spedometer console, digital relays that dont need replacement. This truck may be the same. I currently have error cancellers and run all 360 LED bulbs on a brand new 2016 Ram without any issue. But i do know that TRS warn you about canbus systems. they suck.
    Last edited by 007juice; 12-08-2016 at 09:56 PM.

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    RAM Professional shaggn85's Avatar
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    oof... thats all i can say.

    Try disconnecting your battery for a bit. you could have locked some module(s) into an messed up state. killing power will reset them.
    Last edited by shaggn85; 12-08-2016 at 10:27 PM.
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    Super Moderator Crash68's Avatar
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    I believe the BCM is under the dash which controls all the vehicle lighting and the TMIP is under the hood with all the fuses/relays.
    The TPIM you installed may need to synced with the truck, my neighbor(he is a Dodge mechanic) had to replace his and said something about having to do that to his 2008 Ram.

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    Administrator 97hmcs's Avatar
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    Do we even have a TIPM ? I think Ram now uses a PDC.

    TIPM = Totally Integrated Power Module
    PDC = Power Distribution Center

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    RAM Jr Member BSP ECO-D's Avatar
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    I figured I'd look at the invoice. The part is in fact labeled as a PDC. It seems TIPM/PDC are used as one in the same since I specifically asked for the TIPM and the parts guy ordered the exact part I was looking for. I have a new one for sale, powered up for 10 seconds. Fire sale, 400.00 shipped lol.

    Quote Originally Posted by 97hmcs View Post
    Do we even have a TIPM ? I think Ram now uses a PDC.

    TIPM = Totally Integrated Power Module
    PDC = Power Distribution Center

  7. #7
    RAM Jr Member BSP ECO-D's Avatar
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    I recently read that the BCM was what controls the lighting circuit, I will have to spend more time researching this. What I came out of my last round of research with was that there didn't seem to be a BCM and everything is controlled by the TIPM (which is actually a PDC) so I ordered that part. I knew that it would need flashed to the truck, but the fact the lights are still stuck on leads me to believe that its a fried IC in the BCM. This is what I initially started searching for in the first place!!
    Quote Originally Posted by Crash68 View Post
    I believe the BCM is under the dash which controls all the vehicle lighting and the TMIP is under the hood with all the fuses/relays.
    The TPIM you installed may need to synced with the truck, my neighbor(he is a Dodge mechanic) had to replace his and said something about having to do that to his 2008 Ram.
    15 Laramie Eco-D, Blue streak PC, 6'4" box with quad cab, trailer brake control, 3.92 rear gear with anti-spin, TRS HID kit, LED fogs, Zone 2.5" front level kit, AIRLIFT 5k auto level rear air bag set up, MB 20" vortex wheels w/Nitto TerraGrappler G2's 275/65/20, Adam's polishes - everything!

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    RAM Jr Member BSP ECO-D's Avatar
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    Well here's the thing, the canbus is a system. This means it is the communication path between all the other little computers now ruining, I mean running our vehicles. Well this is my take on canbus anyway. So which part of the canbus system did I fry? Wasn't the PDC, I can verify that. ECM ruled out as well since I have two of them.

    Quote Originally Posted by 007juice View Post
    I ruined a CANBUS system by doing what you did. And thats what you pretty much did. It happened to me and it was out of sequence just as you described it. Believe it ir not all my dash was changed on a honda fit 2016 model because the lighting system is build into the damn dash spedometer console, digital relays that dont need replacement. This truck may be the same. I currently have error cancellers and run all 360 LED bulbs on a brand new 2016 Ram without any issue. But i do know that TRS warn you about canbus systems. they suck.
    15 Laramie Eco-D, Blue streak PC, 6'4" box with quad cab, trailer brake control, 3.92 rear gear with anti-spin, TRS HID kit, LED fogs, Zone 2.5" front level kit, AIRLIFT 5k auto level rear air bag set up, MB 20" vortex wheels w/Nitto TerraGrappler G2's 275/65/20, Adam's polishes - everything!

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    RAM Jr Member BSP ECO-D's Avatar
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    Thanks for the replys, disconnecting the battery unfortunately does nothing. I have had it disconnected for days with no positive results, its never that easy for me!!
    15 Laramie Eco-D, Blue streak PC, 6'4" box with quad cab, trailer brake control, 3.92 rear gear with anti-spin, TRS HID kit, LED fogs, Zone 2.5" front level kit, AIRLIFT 5k auto level rear air bag set up, MB 20" vortex wheels w/Nitto TerraGrappler G2's 275/65/20, Adam's polishes - everything!

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    RAM Jr Member BSP ECO-D's Avatar
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    Just an update here, replaced the bcm, wish I would have continued the search for that in the first place as it was 80.00 compared to the pdc at 600.00 that I was initially steered towards. BCM fixed the issue, I have not had to take the truck in to the dealer as everything that worked before still seems to work. Replacing this was a son of a bitch!!! Have to remove the factory amp and e-brake linkage, then things go somewhat smoothly...
    97hmcs likes this.
    15 Laramie Eco-D, Blue streak PC, 6'4" box with quad cab, trailer brake control, 3.92 rear gear with anti-spin, TRS HID kit, LED fogs, Zone 2.5" front level kit, AIRLIFT 5k auto level rear air bag set up, MB 20" vortex wheels w/Nitto TerraGrappler G2's 275/65/20, Adam's polishes - everything!

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