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Winter Fronts

9K views 41 replies 20 participants last post by  Crash68 
#1 ·
How many of you in cold regions are actually using your cold weather fronts? I put mine on for the first time this week (I've had my truck since July of '14, so this is my third winter with it) due to below zero F temps being predicted. I did not have problems at all during the my first two winters with my ED. True, the truck takes longer to warm up and I've seen my oil and coolant temps drop 5 to 7 degrees F at long stop lights, but I never had any issues.

With the front on, I'm seeing oil and coolant temps about 5 degrees F higher than with it off in temps ranging from -10F to +23F. I also saw my oil temp climb to 224F today on a long hill up Interstate 25.

My only issue with the winter front is what to do with it when it gets dirty (from spray, slush, and winter grime). I can't hose it off in the driveway (hoses are frozen) and the manual says to take it off before washing the truck. It's also a serious pain to get on. I did not receive the plastic tool with mine to push the bottom pads in between the bumper and grill. I ended up folding a wash cloth over a small pry bar and gently using that to spread the grill and bumper far enough apart to push the pads in by hand. Finally, we often get mornings well below freezing to below zero F and then have it warm up into the 40s F during the day. I don't want to have to pull the dirty winter front off for my drive home, the put it back on before leaving for work the following morning.

Comments?

Dave
 
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#2 ·
It's been sub 0 f here the last few days. I've been plugging the truck in and letting it warm up longer than normal. I don't have a winter cover and haven't noticed any issues. At this point I'm just happy it hasn't been throwing any codes. You could buy the metal ones posted in other threads they are supposed to be much easier to install and remove. Me being half cheap I'm thinking of making my own. Theres really nothing to them.
 
#4 · (Edited)
we often get mornings well below freezing to below zero F and then have it warm up into the 40s F during the day.
almost sounds like here in MI, single digit temps in the morning, and 50°F in the afternoon..
I too didn't like having to take the OEM winter front on/off. Even bought a rubber window wedge to help but it's still a pain.
I bought the stainless steel winter front from Precision Design in Canada. They look better, can run through a car wash with them on and easier on/off.
A couple of threads on them:
http://www.ram1500diesel.com/forum/ram-1500-diesel-accessories/24329-precision-grille-inserts.html
http://www.ram1500diesel.com/forum/...ign-winter-grill-inserts-$210-us-dollars.html
 
#5 ·
I have the Fia winter front and I installed the metal snaps into the front grill, so you can install it in a matter of seconds for those afternoons in the high 30's to low 40's. Land vehicle Vehicle Car Hood Automotive exterior

I find that my temps increase 10-12 degrees with it on. My distance between regens increases when it's on also.
 
#9 ·
I run my cover when temps will be 20°F or below for several days or longer. This winter, in my part of Ohio, it has been really up and down so the cover has been on/off a few times already. I have the OEM cover, and find it's not that difficult to put on. Just use your body weight to push down on the bumper cap and the anchors slide right in.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
 
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#11 ·
It is not necessary but nice to have. Anything under 0 degree f and it is really nice to have. No problems with the car wash either, i always use the touch less in the winter. If you dont want to use the cover, you could insert a piece of cardboard or something between the active grill shutters and the CAC if you wanted to and remove it pretty easily to. I did that today because -20 sucks and im tired of the truck not getting past 170 degree. Sometimes those 4 holes in the cover is too much.
 
#16 ·
Yes I do carry weight and or a trailer a lot of the time
However it does not make much difference to the temperature more than a few degrees
I'm pretty sure my temperature record runs around 90 to 96°C most of the time although I don't sit and stare at gages worried about a few degrees or whatever
That is the point, your always giving your truck a workout, generating a bunch of heat. Not everyone drives as much loaded as you do, that why it doesn't make much difference for you using a winter front.
Running unloaded, staying under 65 mph in 10°F(-12°C) weather with a winter front makes a big difference.
 
#21 ·
That is the point, your always giving your truck a workout, generating a bunch of heat. Not everyone drives as much loaded as you do, that why it doesn't make much difference for you using a winter front.
Running unloaded, staying under 65 mph in 10°F(-12°C) weather with a winter front makes a big difference.

You are incorrect on a few points
I drive my truck empty lots and loaded less
And loaded with 200 to 500 pounds even 1000 pounds really does nothing for the operating temperature of the engine
Ironically enough I didn't video this morning driving at 61 mph guess what my temperatures were around 90 to 95°C approximately it moves up and down controlled by the shutters and the engine thermostat But I'm probably sure that you already knew and understood how this works
By the way the truck was empty and with half a tank of fuel but I did have about 200 pounds of junk in the backseat that changes the operative temperature
Try to get around to making a video and posted the link later
 
#14 ·
Down here in south Florida I seen the semi sod haulers will run partial winter fronts all the way till May , which temperatures could be 80-90f , now common sense comes into play ,as long as your not over heating or running it excessively hot , diesels love heat !!!! They burn cleaner and more fuel efficient, remember their combustion ignition, no spark plugs ,they rely on heat to fire off efficiently. Especially the short distance drivers as long as your not running it hot , you are not going to hurt it . Now you do have to make sure your electric fan isn't constantly running to compensate for your cover .
Just pay a little attention to when the electric fan turns on vs driving distance.
 
#17 ·
The Ram 1500 is the first truck to use an active grille shutter system (similar to the one on Dart), closing airflow through the grille when cooling is not needed. It increases gas mileage by 0.5%, cuts drag roughly 4%, and cuts warm-up time/defrost time. The computer closes the shutters when cooling is not needed.
Dave Sowers pointed out that the active shutters was normally either fully open or fully closed. When closed, air pressure quickly builds up in front of the slats, deflecting oncoming air over the truck, which has the lowest drag coefficient of any pickup on the market. At all times, there’s airflow over the radiator from other openings. The idea was to avoid drag from radiator capacity which is seldom needed, while still being able to cool the engine under any reasonable conditions. (He also said that riding with the tailgate down increases drag, while a tonneau cover makes the truck much more aerodynamic.)
 
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#18 ·
And that is why I thought only covering the bottom where there is no active shutter was a good idea. Let the truck control the temperature. Unfortunately my truck doesn't get the work out these ones require with many very short cold trips in the winter. I have noticed much faster warm ups for my very short trips by covering the bottom grills and plugging in. When the truck is on a long hard haul it doesn't matter. Just me but I've never had any luck with "Car Bras". I'm skilled at getting them off just can't put them on :)
 
#20 ·
The myths still going strong at this Site....HPCR do NOT like, need or want excessive intake heat.... all these coolant temps are regulated in the 3.0. NOT 1 mention of the intake temps in this thread, or the 100+ others at this site. Your coolant valve will regulate and distribute the volume necessary to control TRANS,OIL,COOLANT EGR temps. the cooler the intake air the more efficient combustion on all HPCR diesel engines....if you want to run the OE WF go for it in temps above 0F, thinking the coolant temps have any benefit on input to the engines operation is foolish.

Intake Heat kills combustion on any bluetech motor, it increase the flame temp = more NOx more soot and less HP = less MPG ,ALL IN THE NAME OF WHAT!!!!! HOTTER COOLANT TEMPS, the EGR chamber can easily boil the coolant ( its capable of 300+F exhaust heat) the heat needs to be cooled in the process the heat warms the coolant. the coolant is also used to exchange heat Oil/trans Fluid.....

decades back Diesels need additional heat to ad combustion in aspirated engines, HPCR system controls injection(s) events More heat is generated by TDC timing. the hotter the intake air, the system will retard timing generating less heat to lower the flame and NOx soot. IGU.

Your truck, Your money. Your choices.
 
#26 · (Edited)
HPCR do NOT like, need or want excessive intake heat.... all these coolant temps are regulated in the 3.0. NOT 1 mention of the intake temps in this thread, or the 100+ others at this site. Your coolant valve will regulate and distribute the volume necessary to control TRANS,OIL,COOLANT EGR temps. the cooler the intake air the more efficient combustion on all HPCR diesel engines....if you want to run the OE WF go for it in temps above 0F, thinking the coolant temps have any benefit on input to the engines operation is foolish.
TC, Completely agree with you, too much heat isn't a good thing. The winter front is more in line for holding the heat that there. A lot less drop off where your not motoring down the road or get back up to temp in short trips. These engines like to run right around designed operating temperatures.

You are incorrect on a few points
Dave, You have some stones to say someone else is incorrect when you yourself have open stated on multiple occasions that you haven't used the winter front, so how could you know the difference?
Watch what happens when you drive in stop and go traffic, make several stops at stores while shopping. If you think that not running a winter front doesn't make a difference in those situations getting the truck up to operating temps, I don't have to say it, anyone that has run both knows.
 
#23 ·
So what was your cylinder Temps... the only way to know this is by installing additional thermocouples on each side of the exhaust manifolds....Do you have additional sensors that are NOT mutilated by the OP of the truck, If you go by what the EVIC your spreading lies, the only correct one is coolant temps.

What does GVW have to do with anything, we are talking bare truck.

Operating temps of what? Coolant temps have very little input on combustion ,if you want the possibility of shatter / Cracked rings Piston damage, warped and drop valve(s) run that WF in temps Above 20F. like I've said many times -0 temps are OK but its not mandatory.
 
#25 ·
Yes... I am very serious, I've seen 1500F on My manifolds couplers, this was last March and during the summer of course, that's darn hot, if you want to choke your 3.0 to death GFI. I was shocked at those temps so I installed another on the other side, I drilled and tapped the ports when I lifted My cab.

You can do WTH you want, You will never see Me cover my entire front with that POS OE WF unless its -0 , I have no problem with inserts. Last NOV it was 38F I seen two EDs driving with that OE WF its probably OK just put'en around town , but take it on the HWY for any length of time and you will be passing 200/300+ intake air. I don't think anyone on this site or poster has any idea how hot that intake air gets on the compression side of the blower. Does anyone know what drive pressure(s) (ratio) the 3.0 runs on OE OP?.....
 
#32 ·
The sole purpose of the WF recall, was to stop the cold air intake from picking up to much moisture from winter blizzard snow debris conditions.
Otherwise more trucks would go into limp mode from throttle failure codes!

WF will help with realy cold windy climates, but not good for anything above freezing.

Thxs
 
#36 ·
What the 3.0 really needs is turbo Brake engagement Like Cummins and others have , this will raise the idle exhaust temps 200-300F the additional heat will be sent to the EGR coolant chamber and the heat exchanged with coolant and distributed to OIL/Fluids.

I was hoping Bank's was working on this , No news on it, BD has the ramp Idle device.

My turbo brake does engage when cold but it either times out or is set for 100F coolant temps, My guess Ram figured some Ma and Pa owners wouldn't be able to figure it out so the feature NOT available.
 
#37 ·
I have been going back and forth on this cover for a while mostly for cosmetic reasons like scratches. I know a lot of you live in areas that get into the negatives so the Long Island "storm" and temps in the teens are prob nothing to you but I had the cover off driving in thick snow fall and the truck was a beast I don't think I'll be putting it on ever again.
 
#38 ·
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