DJL_57's RAM - Page 2

DJL_57's RAM

This is a discussion on DJL_57's RAM within the RAM 1500 Diesel Builds forums, part of the RAM 1500 EcoDiesel Forum category; Link to the original post: Tapping into cargo light? Better explanation below I picked up a set of OEM MOPAR 82214870 bed lights on ebay. ...

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  1. #11
    RAM Guru DJL_57's Avatar
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    OEM bed light install with switch

    Link to the original post: Tapping into cargo light?
    Better explanation below

    I picked up a set of OEM MOPAR 82214870 bed lights on ebay. Note these are only for later build 2016+ trucks, which have an additional pin present in the BCM. If you install per the MOPAR instructions to a proper year truck, they come on with the cargo light, whether by pressing the button on the dash, or the unlock on the key fob.
    For older trucks, you have to tap into the circuit.
    Start by following the basic installation instructions for 82214870: http://starparts.chrysler.com/info/default/k6862310.pdf
    You'll get all the way to step 12, then either continue on for 2016+ with routing the wire all the way under the hood, or route the wire along the frame rail to about the back of the cab, then follow below for 2015 and older.
    The C5 pin is not present in my BCM to allow the dealer to flash the sales code per the instructions for a 2016+ truck, so I found the circuit and tapped. I found this wire info on a Cummins forum and verified the wire color was correct with a DMM.
    It was a white wire with a brown stripe (disclaimer: verify at your own risk to be sure, but this was accurate for my 2015).

    You have to remove the rear seat to be able to remove the left C-pillar trim panel.
    The wire you need is in a bundle of wire near the floor.
    You have to carefully unwrap the black tape and separate this wire to get enough slack to work on it.
    I hate the clamp-on wiretaps. I chose to cut the wire, use a butt connector that I cut the plastic off of, double-crimped my light power wire into one side of it (shown as brown/white), then solder it too, and cover the whole thing with heatshrink. Makes for a very durable splice.
    At this point you can see I had to drill a hole to get the wire into the cab. The location I chose it still covered by the plastic C-pillar trim, so it's protected from damage. I got a grommet large enough for the wire to slide through, and then filled it with RTV silicone once the wiring was done.



    From here, your install is basically complete. The lights should be on with cargo lights at RKE unlock and/or when the cargo lights are on. Off when off. Pretty simple.

    Or course, I made mine more complicated.
    I also added a SPDT switch to mine of the ON-OFF-ON variety. I ran an extra lead and tapped into the trailer 7-prong wiring that's a battery constant. Let me explain.
    This circuit is rated at 30 amps. The lights are marked as 1.2W. That means at 12V (not ideal) they pull 0.1A. At 14V (ideal) they pull 0.08A. I think 2 of them are perfectly safe on this circuit. It is 12VDC+ 100% of the time, so I can turn it on whenever I want it. I've never left it on, but a 0.2A draw @ 12V when parked would take a long time to cause some significant drain.
    Having the switch allows me to control a single load (the lights) from two sources/feeds. I can turn the lights on with the cargo light circuit, or on whenever I want from the open bed. The switch isolates the two power sources from interfering with each other.

    For this 2nd power source, I used the same cut/crimp/solder/sheath technique to the red wire on the trailer plug, except I used the small crimp connector and the good adhesive-lined heatshrink that were included in the MOPAR lights to protect it from the elements.



    I ran extra wires up the left taillight area and out the hole in the front side of the stake pocket (I don't use the stake pockets anyway, they have a flush-mounted cleat installed to protect this wiring from direct weather or damage).



    I arranged the wires so that when the switch is up (bottom terminal), it is pulling power from the cargo lights (think UP=top of cab), and down (top terminal) drawing power from the trailer wiring (think DOWN=hitch). Middle terminal is the load (lights). The center position gives me an override "OFF" whenever I could possibly want them off.
    The switch was then mounted to a small piece of angled aluminum I cut out. It mounted to a clamp from my Bak tonneau that was installed at the time. Zero holes drilled in the truck.






    Interesting - looking online at 2018 trucks on dealer lots, and now on the left side below the bed light, there's a square rubber cutout that looks like a touch-pad switch. I wonder if they've copied my idea to have an override on whenever you want it, instead of turning on the cargo lamp switch inside.
    Last edited by DJL_57; 04-23-2018 at 08:07 PM.
    Pasechnik and ItsAlive like this.
    2015 RAM 1500 3.0L EcoDiesel/8HP70 4x4. QC 6'4' 140" WB. Factory options: Protection Group, Exterior Appearance Group, Trailer Tow Mirror and Brake Control Group, Popular Equipment Group, 3.92, Anti-Spin, UConnect 5.0, ParkView
    List of mods - DJL_57'S RAM

  2. #12
    RAM Sr Member EcoCherry's Avatar
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    Loving the mods your doing here. Thanks for the posts!
    DJL_57 likes this.

  3. #13
    RAM Guru DJL_57's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by EcoCherry View Post
    Loving the mods your doing here. Thanks for the posts!
    No prob but I'm out of project photos for now! I have a few things lined up, now that I have a thread going it will be easier to just add to it in the future

    Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
    2015 RAM 1500 3.0L EcoDiesel/8HP70 4x4. QC 6'4' 140" WB. Factory options: Protection Group, Exterior Appearance Group, Trailer Tow Mirror and Brake Control Group, Popular Equipment Group, 3.92, Anti-Spin, UConnect 5.0, ParkView
    List of mods - DJL_57'S RAM

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  5. #14
    RAM Regular Pasechnik's Avatar
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    Hi, I converted my '17 Ram Laramie to a 6 seater.. I like my conversion except 2 things

    1. I need to get black overlay for middle seat, which is another story

    2. I don't like how my carpet looks where center console used to be.

    I have Husky liners front are separate pieces. I can see you have single liner made by weathertech.

    I can see the front of the liner going under front panel, but I can't see the back where liner comes close to middle seat....

    Do you mind to take some pictures of that area and post them?

    I want to see how close/far your liner from the bottom of the middle seat.


    Thanks in advance.

  6. #15
    RAM Regular Hammer's Avatar
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    the hood deflector makes the bumper infill panel look better... but you could get that panel painted for like $100 if you took it off yourself. 20x9 Laramie wheels are much better.

  7. #16
    RAM Guru DJL_57's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pasechnik View Post
    Hi, I converted my '17 Ram Laramie to a 6 seater.. I like my conversion except 2 things

    1. I need to get black overlay for middle seat, which is another story

    2. I don't like how my carpet looks where center console used to be.

    I have Husky liners front are separate pieces. I can see you have single liner made by weathertech.

    I can see the front of the liner going under front panel, but I can't see the back where liner comes close to middle seat....

    Do you mind to take some pictures of that area and post them?

    I want to see how close/far your liner from the bottom of the middle seat.


    Thanks in advance.
    Does this help? Depends which cab you have too. Mine is a quad cab. If you have a crew it will sit differently and the crew cab middle seats have an additional shelf in front on the floor.
    The front does not go under the trim just butts against it




    Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
    2015 RAM 1500 3.0L EcoDiesel/8HP70 4x4. QC 6'4' 140" WB. Factory options: Protection Group, Exterior Appearance Group, Trailer Tow Mirror and Brake Control Group, Popular Equipment Group, 3.92, Anti-Spin, UConnect 5.0, ParkView
    List of mods - DJL_57'S RAM

  8. #17
    RAM Guru DJL_57's Avatar
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    Adding link to this thread for added backup lights on rear bumper:
    https://www.ram1500diesel.com/forum/...e-circuit.html
    2015 RAM 1500 3.0L EcoDiesel/8HP70 4x4. QC 6'4' 140" WB. Factory options: Protection Group, Exterior Appearance Group, Trailer Tow Mirror and Brake Control Group, Popular Equipment Group, 3.92, Anti-Spin, UConnect 5.0, ParkView
    List of mods - DJL_57'S RAM

  9. #18
    RAM Sr Member 4eyedconekiller.'s Avatar
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    That’s good stuff there! Been wondering how to do that forever!
    2014 Big Horn 4x4 CC EcoD.
    Deleted, Tuned, Tinted, and Leveled
    PPEI, S&B, Bilstein, Frontier Gear and Ranch Hand

  10. #19
    RAM Guru DJL_57's Avatar
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    Added the underhood light to my Tradesman. Bought the kit on Amazon. Listing shows the 56021441AC part number for the light and the (proper) harness 68090861AA. The right harness showed up, however the light was in a box labeled 68395126AA and the light itself had that number molded in it too. Appears 100% identical to the 56021441AC - can't tell the difference.
    I also purchased the proper 90-degree offset LED light for it (here) after reading online how utterly miserable the stock bulb is apparently, I wanted to do it once right the first time. I can only hope this is not the beginning of a quest to replace everything else with LEDs to satisfy my OCD...

    All snapped together OK. I was able to somewhat carefully remove the hood insulation clips and reuse them, and used a black fir tree pushpin to mount the backing plate of the light with no issues.
    I gently went over the engine compartment the other day with the pressure washer, now I can pop the hood and show off
    Kazimodo likes this.
    2015 RAM 1500 3.0L EcoDiesel/8HP70 4x4. QC 6'4' 140" WB. Factory options: Protection Group, Exterior Appearance Group, Trailer Tow Mirror and Brake Control Group, Popular Equipment Group, 3.92, Anti-Spin, UConnect 5.0, ParkView
    List of mods - DJL_57'S RAM

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