Trailer light problem

Trailer light problem

This is a discussion on Trailer light problem within the RAM 1500 Diesel Electrical forums, part of the RAM 1500 Diesel Garage - RAM 1500 Diesel Mechanics Corner category; Well my good luck streak has hit a minor bump. I have no to varing voltage at my tow connection, connection. I’ve unplugged the socket ...

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  1. #1
    RAM Sr Member Fisherman's Avatar
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    Trailer light problem

    Well my good luck streak has hit a minor bump.

    I have no to varing voltage at my tow connection, connection.
    I’ve unplugged the socket from behind the bumper 7/4 pin connection and I have varing low voltage outputs with the lights on.
    I’ve checked the fuses, they are ok. I’ve checked and cleaned what grounds I can find...those look good too.
    The posts on the connection that plug into the back of the 7/4 pin conector are super clean with no sign of corrosion.
    I’m far from what one might call an “electrical guy”.
    I’ve had one “electrical guy” have a quick crack at it with no luck.
    Im basically looking for any tips or previous experience with this issue. I do not want to bring the truck into the dealer to waste hours and hours to come up with nothing. That is last resort.

    Trailer has been tested and works perfect.
    Tail lights on the truck work fine too..and I beleive that is a totally separate circuit.

    Any help would be great!

  2. #2
    Super Moderator Crash68's Avatar
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    Is it all of the pins, Including the +12 terminal? You may have to trace the harness up to the front of the truck.
    If it's just the trailer brake, the output is variable based on vehicle speed. I believe this applies to the manual lever also.

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    RAM Sr Member Fisherman's Avatar
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    the only 12+ volts i get is at the #5 terminal on the truck (left turn, brake).
    i will double check everything after work tonight.

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    Super Moderator Patroller8D's Avatar
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    Not going to belittle your ability to check fuses, but there is a section for trailer fuses alone in the panel. Pull them out one at a time and check them with a meter, lowest Ohm setting. You get a zero or very close to it, fuse is good. If there's no reading, fuse is bad. Let us know how you make out.

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    RAM Sr Member Fisherman's Avatar
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    hey man...i’ll take any help i can get. im not offended.
    so ya...there are 2 20amp fuses i found. one labled tow/left brake and one labled tow/right brake....if i remember correctly.
    i did pull both these fuses, but only gave them a visual and they looked fine, but i will check resistance on them tonight.
    thanks.

    i desperately need to get this sorted put and fast...anyone ever install one of those tow light power moduals before. i see one on amazon for $50 and it has internal overload protection or circuit breaker of some sort. easy, yet half assed fix??

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    RAM Ninja Kazimodo's Avatar
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    I see a couple of relay in addition to the fuses ,
    maybe they are not pushed in all the way ...??
    fuses 28 ,29 ,30 ,81 ,53 , 4 or 5 relays used for different trailer related stuff
    including the trailer brakes control as seen in PDF files.
    ..
    I have 2 wiring diagrams , I don't know the difference between the 2 ..
    Attached Files Attached Files

  8. #7
    RAM Sr Member Fisherman's Avatar
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    thanks for those kazimodo

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    Super Moderator Patroller8D's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fisherman View Post
    hey man...i’ll take any help i can get. im not offended.
    so ya...there are 2 20amp fuses i found. one labled tow/left brake and one labled tow/right brake....if i remember correctly.
    i did pull both these fuses, but only gave them a visual and they looked fine, but i will check resistance on them tonight.
    thanks.

    i desperately need to get this sorted put and fast...anyone ever install one of those tow light power moduals before. i see one on amazon for $50 and it has internal overload protection or circuit breaker of some sort. easy, yet half assed fix??
    The tow modules were an ideal fix for the older RAMs, if you had a short in the trailer system, you had to take the truck in to get it reset, max of 3 times and then the whole module had to be changed at around $700. If the tow module has lower value fuses then they would blow before the truck ones do which would be good.

  10. #9
    Super Moderator Crash68's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fisherman View Post
    there are 2 20amp fuses i found. one labled tow/left brake and one labled tow/right brake....if i remember correctly.
    i did pull both these fuses, but only gave them a visual and they looked fine, but i will check resistance on them tonight.
    thanks.
    A cheat sheet of the fuse number, rating and fuse type for the trailer 7 pin:

    F53 ATR 20 amp Left Trailer lights
    F81 ATR 20 amp Right Trailer lights
    F29 FFM 20 amp Trailer Park lights
    F28 FFM 20 amp Trailer Back up lights
    F30 FFM 30 amp Direct from battery
    F11 J Case 30 amp Brake Lever
    F87 ATR 10 amp ITBM module

  11. #10
    RAM Sr Member Fisherman's Avatar
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    thanks Crash.

    i just did some quick minor tests.
    all related fuses are in place and are in good working order...tested with the mulitmeter.
    i have perfect continuity at 0-0.001 ohms from the ground terminal on the truck tow connection, to the (-) post on the battery...connected with a long peice of wire i attached to it.
    when the truck and lights are on. i have a normal 14v of power when the brake is pressed to the left brake/blinker terminal only.
    everything else is showing like .20 to .80v when truck is on or off.... whats up with that??

    also, is there a terminal fed directly from the (+) side of the battery?
    if so i should have +12V there at all times right?
    i guess i should check that for continuity as well??

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