Lubing the slides for thr the disc brakes

Lubing the slides for thr the disc brakes

This is a discussion on Lubing the slides for thr the disc brakes within the RAM 1500 Diesel Maintenance forums, part of the RAM 1500 Diesel Garage - RAM 1500 Diesel Mechanics Corner category; Just a thought and something I am going to put on my yearly maintenance schedule. Yesterday I had a nice warm day so I decided ...

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Thread: Lubing the slides for thr the disc brakes

  1. #1
    RAM Veteran namretsud's Avatar
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    Lubing the slides for thr the disc brakes

    Just a thought and something I am going to put on my yearly maintenance schedule. Yesterday I had a nice warm day so I decided to do some inspection on my drivers rear brake. It had been squealing of late and When I got the nuts off the wheel I had a bear of a time getting it off, but finally did with a few swift kicks I took the caliper off and found that the discs were rusted tight to the slides, no sign of any lubrication. Had to wack them with a hammer to move them. Disassembled and wire brushed them and applied disc brake grease to the slides. I tried to move the rotor and no movement, so I have a drum/rotor puller on order. I put anti-seize on the front of the rotor so at least the wheel will come off easy next time. Just thought I would put this out there. The other 3 will be tackled when I get my puller. Then there is the Avenger on the list.

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    RAM Regular RudolfDiesel's Avatar
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    Anytime I had taken my vehicles in to a shop such as Canadian tire, I would always scoff at the brake inspection, feeling it was just a money making scam. It may very well be a scam with minimal or no work being done at times in certain garages, but the need still exists. Review of brake issues such as making certain your pads have life remaining, are wearing consistently and evenly, and ensuring they move effectively in the slides are just part of the inspection. Without question the need for taking a hard look at your brakes, especially if you tow on an annual basis is invaluable. Some people aren't comfortable doing this, so find a good shop and make them show you what they are doing including movement of the pads, removal of any rust/dirt accumulations, inspection of the brakelines, quality of your brake fluid, etc. Having them looked at is good sense. Look at the recent spate of rear backing plates coming off. This is the sort of thing that could be caught.

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    RAM Sr Member BrianF's Avatar
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    This is a good thing to do. I now regularly rip apart the brakes on my vehicles, new ones included. You inspect everything and yes, add antiseize to bolts/nuts, mating surfaces to make it that much easier down the road to inspect and repair. All 3 of my vehicles had their brakes inspected, adjusted and or lubed this spring.

    I use a silicone grease similar to Silglyde for the slider pins. I had run into issues with my somewhat new to me 1993 GMC C1500. Had a pull on moderate to hard braking. Pulled the slider pins, dry as a bone and the iron on iron caliper slide rails (lack of a better term) were rusted and grabbing. After some TLC the brakes were like new. Cost me an hour.

    On my 2006 Trailblazer, I had let the rear brakes sit for too long and when it came time for pads/rotors 2 years ago, I had to sledge and air chisel the rear rotors off. Took a pile of time because everything was seized in place. Reinstalled with antiseize. Last month I pulled them all apart to inspect and adjust the parking brake. They popped apart like butter.

    Did this on my 2017 Ram 3500 just a few days ago.

    Also a good time to clean and crack the bleeder valves. Keeps them from rusting in, allows you to inspect the color of fluid and see if any air bubbles come out. This is the best preventative maintenance one can do it costs next to nothing. I bought that silicone grease 2 years ago for around 15$ and have used very little. Brake fluid is dirt cheap as well.
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    RAM Ninja Kazimodo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrianF View Post
    ......I had to sledge and air chisel the rear rotors off. Took a pile of time because everything was seized in place......
    ..
    . Ah , the good old days , in that particular situation , use a saws-all to cut the rotor , make sure you don't cut the good stuff ,
    or go too deep and cut the end of the axle hiding under the rotor ,
    ..
    once you have a weak line in them they cannot resist anymore , 30 years the hard way with bigger sledgehammer until I tried that method ,
    that saws-all is also excellent under the cars when messing with exhaust .
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Lubing the slides for thr the disc brakes-failure-dscn0807.jpg  
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    RAM Guru Brokedownbutgood's Avatar
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    Skip the puller or sledge hammer ball peen hammers are where its at. Worst case you can use the sledge on the ball peen hammer. Hit right on the stuck part of the rotor aka between the studs.
    Last edited by Brokedownbutgood; 04-08-2019 at 10:57 AM. Reason: Spelling errors

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    Super Moderator Mopar73340's Avatar
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    Always a good idea to grease the area where the calipers slide. I always use anti seize on the front and back of the rotors and is much more important on the fronts especially if you have aluminum wheels as the dissimilar metals will “fuse” together in short order.
    BrianF likes this.
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    Just did mine too... my rotors were not seized at all. 125000km of salty Ontario winters and they were loose on the hub. Unfortunately, the rears have the parking brake inside the rotor like a drum brake. Those brake shoes can catch on the lip of the drum and the rotor will not come off. What a pain in the butt! I wish I had thought to use a saws-all, would have saved some pounding.
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    RAM Regular John Bartley's Avatar
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    Just a note on tight brake pads ...

    I have NOT worked on the Ram, but on my Silverados I would grind a bit of the pad's metal backing, just where they mount in the carrier. Yes, the pads would rattle a little bit, but not enough to be annoying, and they'd never stick and wear unevenly.

    NOT a recommendation ... just relating how I solved the uneven wear issue on my Chev's.

    EDIT :: and yes, I also used antiseize, etc.

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    RAM Veteran phprof's Avatar
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    You want to know how to handle brake jobs in the great rusty north? Try out New York State where applying salt brine to dirt roads in the summer is considered a good idea.

    2014 RAM Ecodiesel Bighorn
    2014 Dodge Durango V6 3.6L

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    Nice video but I had to turn the sound off.
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