Blue smoke, oil & citrus odor - Page 7

Blue smoke, oil & citrus odor

This is a discussion on Blue smoke, oil & citrus odor within the RAM 1500 Diesel Mechanical forums, part of the RAM 1500 Diesel Garage - RAM 1500 Diesel Mechanics Corner category; Well gentlemen, I have removed the pass-side timing cover, and set my timing on the factory timing marks, as I am still considering removing cams ...

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Thread: Blue smoke, oil & citrus odor

  1. #61
    RAM Jr Member Mattytdi's Avatar
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    Well gentlemen, I have removed the pass-side timing cover, and set my timing on the factory timing marks, as I am still considering removing cams and checking the head torque...lol
    I'll post some interesting pics...it looks like the cam may have been dowelled to avoid sprocket slipping... but all opinions are welcome and invited!

    The other pic shows the cam gear indents, flush to the top plane of the head.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Blue smoke, oil & citrus odor-1567190219193_1567190295549.jpg   Blue smoke, oil & citrus odor-1567190308374_1567190326504.jpg  

  2. #62
    RAM Jr Member Mattytdi's Avatar
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    I'm going to post a link to a forum that discusses head bolts that (I believe) might be similar to the ecodiesel's bolts.
    There is even a diagram indicating the bolt material and grade / strength.
    An improvement on the ecodeisel bolts is the inclusion of washers below the bolt head, preventing gauling the aluminum, and helping to achieve more consistant torque uniformity.
    Again, opinions welcome and encouraged!

    LOST JEEPS ? View topic - ARP head studs


    '

  3. #63
    RAM Jr Member Mattytdi's Avatar
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    So, to follow up, I broke each head bolt loose, and removed the bolt, one at a time, cleaned the holes, a few of them needed oil removal, applied a light skim of synthetic grease to the bolt threads, more on the lead threads (4-5 threads) than upper inch. Reinstalled the bolt, and torqued to 100lbs.

    That procedure for all 16 bolts. Then followed toque sequence to 115lbs, then again to 120obs, applying very slow constant pressure to the rachet. Confirmed the 120 about 3-4 times per bolt head.
    At times, I could feel the bolt passing its previous thread position.
    Some of the bolts proved very hard to break loose, of course, they were the dry holes. I destroyed 3, 1/2in to 3/8in socket adapters.

    We'll see how this works, I expect I gained some clamping force, and pretty confident the heads have a more consistant resistance across the head...
    Also cleaned the intake plenum, which, as anyone who has been in one these knows, is a dirty job..lol
    I used zep purple industrial degreaser, diluted at about 1part:4parts hot water.

    Changed the solution 3x. When fresh, it b5oke down the oil and carbon really well. I'm expecting this motor to breathe a little more freely after the valve port and intake cleaning... combined with the turbo upsize....

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  5. #64
    RAM Silver Member Bounty Hunter's Avatar
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    Gets a bad tune from a no-name tuner, disassembles entire engine lol.
    BrianF and lucskoj like this.
    2016 Laramie CC 6'4", Delmonico Red, GDE Hot tune and Trans tune, External oil cooler, PPE Trans pan

  6. #65
    RAM Jr Member Mattytdi's Avatar
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    A "BAD" tune... is that what you call a tune that makes the truck run quieter, increased fuel mileage by 2o -25% (11Ltr/100km to 8Ltr/100km) reduced hesitation, full delete, and power to tie with a porsche in a sprint?

    When I removed the egr tube, It became obvious that I should remove the intake and clean the plenum and valve ports. For the sake of efficiency and longevity.
    The smell of burning oil should make you concerned enough to investigate the problem, physically.
    I was also able to test my injectors, verify the condition of my roller rockers, fix a weeping timing cover, replace the front main seal, have a look at the cams, specifically the drive spockets, upgrade my turbo for further efficiency, and reliability, instil some confidence in my head gaskets, and get a general sense and comfort with a previously unfamiliar to me motor.

    I dont regret having gone fairly in-depth with this service, even if the tune is the source of one of the symptoms that concerned me.

  7. #66
    RAM Regular BrianF's Avatar
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    But there are other ways to test your head gaskets. Checking the coolant system for over pressurization, testing the coolant for blow by and using used oil analysis to check for coolant and adverse wear. But yes, the tear down does make it easier, rather it was necessary for your other repairs.

  8. #67
    RAM Silver Member Bounty Hunter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mattytdi View Post
    A "BAD" tune... is that what you call a tune that makes the truck run quieter, increased fuel mileage by 2o -25% (11Ltr/100km to 8Ltr/100km) reduced hesitation, full delete, and power to tie with a porsche in a sprint?
    Hahahahaha. That's rich. Don't take offense, I was only referring to the tune as bad in respect to possibly causing your symptoms.
    2016 Laramie CC 6'4", Delmonico Red, GDE Hot tune and Trans tune, External oil cooler, PPE Trans pan

  9. #68
    Super Moderator Crash68's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mattytdi View Post
    So, to follow up, I broke each head bolt loose, and removed the bolt, one at a time, cleaned the holes, a few of them needed oil removal, applied a light skim of synthetic grease to the bolt threads, more on the lead threads (4-5 threads) than upper inch. Reinstalled the bolt, and torqued to 100lbs.

    That procedure for all 16 bolts. Then followed toque sequence to 115lbs, then again to 120obs, applying very slow constant pressure to the rachet. Confirmed the 120 about 3-4 times per bolt head.
    At times, I could feel the bolt passing its previous thread position.
    Some of the bolts proved very hard to break loose, of course, they were the dry holes. I destroyed 3, 1/2in to 3/8in socket adapters.

    We'll see how this works, I expect I gained some clamping force, and pretty confident the heads have a more consistant resistance across the head...
    There is a good probability that the head bolts are Torque-to-Yeild and should be replaced after you removed them.
    TTY bolts are commonly used nowadays and they are actually designed to "stretch" when torqued down. Some manufacturers give length spec for the bolt to determine if they're reusable, but for $$ and the potential of a blown head gasket is it worth the risk. They are commonly used on aluminum head engines, even Cummins uses them. They actually give a more consistent clamp force than a traditional head bolt.

  10. #69
    RAM Jr Member Mattytdi's Avatar
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    I agree my retorquing the original head bolts seems questionable. From the research I've done, it seems these bolts are not a stretch bolt, or "yeild" bolt...
    Re-installing them may have been a mistake, however the way they tightened, they hadn't seemed to have reached a yeilding point, yet.
    Time shall tell I guess, and I'll be sure to update should I encounter problems or success.

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