Did you order the truck with anti-spin differential rear axle??


also 4 wheel drive does not mean all 4 wheels turn, if you had the anti spin diff then 3 wheels would turn.

 

I didnt order the truck, bought it off the lot. Not sure if it has anti spin. I have the button that has the car and squiggly lines, is that it?

 

This is just the traction control, separate from anti-spin. Traction control just keeps you from spinning all the way around when cornering etc., traction control works pretty good but also takes the fun away from spinning the back end around.

 

Unless your truck has the Anti-Spin Differential Rear Axle, the wheel with the least resistance will get all the power. Sometimes you can apply some brake pedal to get rolling on ice. If you have the Anti-Spin Differential Rear Axle this shouldn't happen.

 

No the button would be the electronic stability control. The anti spin would be on you invoice or sticker as an option

 

So assuming I have an open diff. What would be my best option. Installing aftermarket LS or a locker than can be turned off/on? Any particular ones folks prefer?

 

You should have used 4wd Lock. That would get you all 4 wheels.

 

4WD lock will lock the transfer case and provide equal power to front and rear axles, but you will still only spin one front and one rear wheel unless you have the anti-spin diff. If so, three wheels will spin as explained by zach05855

 

I don't have the same configuration as your truck, but i believe I read somewhere that 4wd low would lock the wheels in. I know auto will not, and I think it was stated that 4wd lock will not, either.

 

The Anti-Spin in 2 WD would have gotten on your way no problem. So if only one rear wheel had power...you don't have it.

 

The 4w auto, or 4 lock would make no difference in your situation. The 4 low lock would only put you in a lower final drive ratio. This will only slow you down. The transfer case has nothing to do with your differentials locking. 4 auto will only engage the front differential if the traction control senses slippage to the rear tires. At best, with a limited slip rear end, you will have three wheels with traction. The 4 lock should continuously engage your front and rear differentials. Again with a limited slip 3 wheels with power. The 4 low lock will continuously engage your front and rear differentials while also lowering your final drive ratio. Again, at best, 3 wheels.

Here is a quick clip to basically explain a few different types of differentials. If you did not order the limited slip then you received an open differential. You can have a limited slip or a locker installed. Unless you are going to be doing some off roading, I would not install a locker.

How a Differential Works and Types of Differentials:

Does anyone know what style of limited slip we have?

 

'Does anyone know what style of limited slip we have?'

My understanding is that we have a geared LSD like Detroit truetrac rather than a clutch style. The clutch style LSD usually require a special additive in the gear oil. Mine works very well and I never feel more than minor spin from one rear wheel before the other receives power. To the OP, I would recommend a geared lsd like the truetrac, which should run you $1000-$1500 installed by a reputable 4x4 shop. The only real disadvantages to the LSD is if one wheel is off the ground they will not distribute power to the other wheel. Lockers will truly apply equal power to both wheels but can not be used on dry roads and if you're on snowy pavement they can cause you to brake traction because they will not let wheels spin at different speed around corners. Locker is better in if you are stuck/serious off road, LSD is better for a daily driver IMO.

 

I believe we have the clutch type. A special additive is required, according to the owner's manual/

 

Why would a open dif ever be installed in a 4X4?

 

I asked myself that question many times when truck shopping, glad I didn't give up on finding one with the anti-spin. Most dealers don't order it, around here anyway. My driveway is steep and has been ice covered for months, no problem.

 

Clear and simple. Best I ever saw.

 

I find it crazy that I can even find trucks on lots here in WI that don't have the antispin rear diff. Its a $295 option that would have saved the OP much heartache from his new truck. Now to get one added it will cost 3-6x as much as original.

 

I think it is just a cost issue. But if you are paying the extra $3,145 for a "4X4" and you only get a "4x2" (4 wheels with one rear driven and one front driven) unless you spend an extra $325 for the anti-spin which will give you a "4X3" (4 wheels with two rear driven and one front driven).
You get a "4X1" if you don't get the anti-spin on the two wheel drive models (4 wheels with one rear driven).

Seems silly and cheap to not make anti-spin standard on a truck.
Advice to those buying off the lot or ordering either the two wheel drive or the four wheel drive - Get the anti-spin differential rear axle

 

4wd Low would have likely done the trick as well. Many many people are confusing the operation of 4wd Lock, and 4wd LOW.

 

4wd Low does not lock the axles. Same as 4wd Lock except lower gear ratio.

When operating your vehicle in 4WD LOW, the engine
speed is approximately three times that of the 2WD or
4WD LOCK positions at a given road speed. Take care
not to overspeed the engine and do not exceed 25 mph
(40 km/h).

When additional traction is required, the transfer case
4WD LOCK and 4WD LOW positions can be used to
maximize torque to the front driveshaft, forcing the front
and rear wheels to rotate at the same speed. This is
accomplished by rotating the 4WD Control Switch to the
desired position. Refer to “Shifting Procedure” in this
section for specific shifting instructions. The 4WD LOCK
and 4WD LOW positions are designed for loose, slippery
road surfaces only. Driving in the 4WD LOCK and 4WD
LOW positions on dry hard surfaced roads may cause
increased tire wear and damage to the driveline components.

4WD LOCK

Four-Wheel Drive Lock Range - This range maximizes
torque to the front driveshaft, forcing the front and rear
wheels to rotate at the same speed. Additional traction
for loose, slippery road surfaces only.

4WD LOW

Four - Wheel Drive Low Range - This range provides low
speed four-wheel drive. It maximizes torque to the front
driveshaft , forcing the front and rear wheels to rotate at
the same speed. This range provides additional traction
and maximum pulling power for loose, slippery road
surfaces only. Do not exceed 25 mph (40 km/h).

 

The only automatic lockers I am aware of are the Detroit Locker and the Lock-Right Locker. Believe me when I tell you, automatic lockers tend to create odd handling characteristics on the street as they lock and unlock and take some getting used to. I had a 2-door hummer before the 97 wagon that was equipped with the Detroit Locker in the rear and it sure took some getting used to.

The best of both worlds would be the On-Command lockers such as the ARB's. When the on-command locker is engaged, the differential locks the axle shafts together where it is now more like a spool with no differential of speed between the wheels of that axle. Some OEM on-command locker designs are available on the market including 1998 and newer Toyota Tacoma and Land Cruiser and the Jeep TJ and JK Rubicons.

 

MAny people dislike limited slip differentials. Some of the problems, or perceived problems with them are-

1-Tend to fishtail worse than an open dif when going quickly down a washboard gravel road.

2-LEss long term reliability.

3-HArd to turn corners on very slippery roads.

4-When stuck and both rear wheels spinning it tends to wag the rearend. One way when spinning forward and the other when spinning in reverse. Many say it is easier to get out once stuck with an open differential.

I am not saying the above is true, but it is what many people around here say. This is the first LSD I have ever had and so far I like it but then I also liked the open dif in my old 2000 Dodge.

 

I've driven 4x4 trucks with locking rear and without. On all the trucks with locking rear axle, I never had a reliability issue (300k miles on one), never had trouble in corners on slick roads, and only fishtailing when I turn off the traction control and want to enjoy a good fishtail. They were all GMs with the Eaton locking rear not the Ram with the clutches.
I would never buy a truck without anti-slip or locking rear axle and I haven't found a down side. On the one wheel drive, I really hate when you have to pull out of a side road on a right turn and the right rear tire just spins on wet, sandy or gravel. It only takes a little power to get the inside wheel spinning.

 

I had a '95 F250 7.3L 8' bed 2wd that would just sit and spin if on wet grass and a 2 or 3% grade. I couldn't live with that being down here in AR. I put a Lock-Right Locker in it and it cured the problem, however it took some getting use to. It had some big gears and springs in it and if you let off the throttle going around a corner the gears would desengage and sound and feel like the rear end was coming apart, if you applied the throttle while going around a corner everything was normal. Like 97hmcs said they take time getting use to. I put mine in when the truck had just over 700 miles on it and when I gave it to my daughter it had over 200K with no trouble and she is still driving it. It did seem to have more wear on the rear tires, (not real bad) probably IMO because of scuffing.

 

In 4wd Lock, You can hold down the trac off button and compleatly disengage the trac control. THat would get you 4 wheels all the time. And quite fun in mud

 

Disabling the traction control as you mentioned will only work in 4WD Low.

Unfortunately, you will not have 4 wheels turning all the time because the diffs are still not locked.

 

Bought the truck off the lot. Wish I had realized it had open diff. I didnt think to have to look for it.

Now like someone else said, a $300 upgrade has turned in to a $1500 upgrade, ugh. If I do, it will be an on demand locker. No point in just stepping up to LS.

However, will a locker install void my powertrain warranty??

 

I would imagine it would only void the warranty on the rear differential and axles, it's downstream of the rest of the power train so it shouldn't be considered a reason for fault if the engine or transmission has issues later. Check with your local Ram service center first though and get it in writing, I'd also have my phone in my pocket and record the conversation. After it's done upload the file to Dropbox or something and put it along with all other truck related files in a CYA (cover your a**) folder so it's impossible to lose and easy to find of you ever need it

 

Very few vehicles spin all 4 tires. Off the top of my head, the raptor (torsion front on 12 and newer), wrangler rubicon, power wagon, and the really expensive tacoma. If you notice something about all these vehicles, they are all off road focused. Also all but the raptor disengage the front lock after around 10mph. Raptor's is 85mph (it gets hot running in the sand with the front going).

 

Not to be a stickler, BUT I believe you are referring to "Torsen" Differential. I had them front & rear on my 1997 Hummer. They do not positively lock the axles. You would have to install lockers such as the ARB (air) or Eaton (electric) to actually lock the axles.

With Torsen's, you can utilize Brake Throttle Modulation (BTM) and you can lock-up the axles to a certain extent. Unfortunately, you are sacrificing a lot of forward momentum while doing so.