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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Guys.

We got a very nice day here in Pitt PA... so I thought I would go dig under the truck a little. Here's what I found:

1) BLOCK HEATER: Yes... the heater is in all the blocks. I figured that Ram wasn't putting the heater in on demand. (like with the Cummins) They are simply adding the cord. If you crawl under the truck, just behind the passenger front tire, and look up on the side of the block... you will see a brass fitting, with an orange rubber plug. That's the heater. If you pull the plug out... you will see the terminals.

SO... if you didn't order a block heater, and have now decided that you want it... all you have to do is get the cord, and plug it in. The part number for the cord is 68223420AA. It's $100... but I'm sure if we look around... we will start to find them for $30 to $40. (just like with the Cummins) Right now... they aren't out there... but before next winter... I'm assuming they will be available.

2) FUEL FILTER/WATER TRAP: the book says , if you need to drain it... it's up in the wheel well. Well... it's not. It's actually mounted center of the frame rail, just to the right of the fuel tank. Because of it's location, it's going to make a mess. (it's above the driveshaft) I don't think it will drain clean. So... if you get a "Water in fuel" light... expect to get messy. (can't be done on the side of the road easily)

3) Exhaust: OK... this one is CRAZY. Right off the turbo... the first thing in line is the DPF. It's a little bigger than I thought... but it's close enough to be able to do a passive regeneration if you are running any highway miles. Next is a SCR. This is the unit that the urea is sprayed into. FYI, just ahead of that is the urea injector. After that is a MASSIVE muffler. Personally... I'm thinking of removing it. Between the turbo, the DPF, and the SCR... it should still be quiet. And finally... next to each exhaust tip... there is a "Resonator". Don't know why they are there.... but they are.


4) FLUIDS: The drain plug on the engine is easy to get to. It's dead center of the oil pan. Also... there is a convenient drain plug on the trans.



If there is anything else you guys are wondering about... give a yell, and I'll try to figure it out.
 

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What type of transmission oil comes factory? How much oil does the tranny hold?


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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
What type of transmission oil comes factory? How much oil does the tranny hold?


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It's a new fluid. You can do a search for "ZF" trans fluid, and you will find it with MoPar, VW and BMW labels. Or... you may be able to find it as Shell L12108/Lifeguard8. You need 9L to fill the trans.




OK guys... going back to the block heater cord....

It looks like it's a standard type cord. Ford tractors used it... but the direction the wires come out of the plug may head to hot parts on the engine. If it will work... they are under $20 shipped. BUT... it also looks like the GM Duramax cord will work. The wires come straight out of the plug, and it has a heat shield built into the end. Retail is $59, and after looking around, I found it under $40 Not cheap... but WAY better than the $100 for the Ram cord.

Looks like the GM part is 19301659.
 

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Thanks for doing some investigating, it's appreciated :cool: About the block heater, I have noticed it comes up as an option for both the gas v6 and the hemi. Is this really an option for those engines? Also, about the water trap, is this a relatively common issue for these engines?
 

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Good information. About the exhaust system, my 09 hemi also had the largest muffler I had ever seen, it was just huge. Also had the resonator at the back of the system. It was thought at the time that the resonator was included for when the hemi was in fuel saver mode running on 4 cylinders. Old British sports cars like my old MGB's always had a muffler and resonator, made for a real nice sound when cruising top down on the highway. I replaced the muffler with a direct replacement from Mufflex, they have 3 different sizes, for moderate, medium and aggressive sound. This was of course for the 5.7 hemi, so wondering if in time they will have one for the ecodiesel. It was a very easy replacement, and the sound is awesome.
 

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That's weird that your book gave you the wrong location. Of the water separator! Maybe it's an old book? Mine gave the exact right location with pictures and a step by step on how to drain the water out....
 
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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Thanks for doing some investigating, it's appreciated :cool: About the block heater, I have noticed it comes up as an option for both the gas v6 and the hemi. Is this really an option for those engines? Also, about the water trap, is this a relatively common issue for these engines?
Over the years.... only Diesel's have continued to have a water trap. My boat has a water trap for a gas engine. BUT... in the automotive world... I think a gas engine can pass water more easy. AND... since we have 10% alcohol in gas now... it helps suspend water in the fuel.

Diesel, on the other hand... if you get a load of water... it goes straight to the bottom of the tank, and into the fuel system. AND... if you don't trap it... and it can get into the injectors... it will vaporize (turn to steam) with the heat, and it can actually crack (blow up) the injector tips.

With that said... on my old Cummins 2500... I only ever drained the water trap once a year, when would do spring time maintenance. It was never a "Panic" situation, and I honestly don't think I ever saw much water.

As said above... try to buy your fuel at a place with high turn over... and it's shouldn't be an issue.


That's weird that your book gave you the wrong location. Of the water separator! Maybe it's an old book? Mine gave the exact right location with pictures and a step by step on how to drain the water out....

It may be. I've been looking at the digital copy I D/L'ed when I first ordered the truck. BUT... the only book I got with the truck is the "Users manual." I may have to contact Ram CS to see if I was supposed to get any other books. (a real owner's manual)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
OK... back to the Heater cord.


There is a company who makes a bunch of generic block heaters... and that's Kat's. They have a straight fitting cord, with (what looks like) the proper plug. Since it's a whopping $11... I'm going to order one, and I'll let you guys know if it works. (P/N 28500)
 

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Thanks for all the digging info btw! That's awesome....i think the heater cord is a standard item if u order from canada, everyone seems to be getting them automatically, I didn't even have a choice, it was just there....
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for all the digging info btw! That's awesome....i think the heater cord is a standard item if u order from canada, everyone seems to be getting them automatically, I didn't even have a choice, it was just there....
Yep... that's what I have been seeing. (probably because it gets colder up there) In the USA... it's a option, and is $95 when you order a truck, or it's $103 if you buy it at the parts counter. I figured it was just a matter of looking around to find an inexpensive cord. Besides... after a few years... even the guys who have the OEM cord may need to replace it... and it's nice to know if the aftermarket cords will work.
 

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A totally agree, best little thing my grandfather taught me (he had diesels all his life) was to put you block heater on a timer so it was only on for an hour or 2 before you goto work! Hhe also had one of the garage plugs switched from inside the house so if he knew he was say going to the market or something on a saturday he could flip a switch in the house and warm it up some before leaving.

Is it true you really only need it pluged in like a half hour to get the max benefits? I know the book says 2 hours...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Smart man. (see below) That's left over from my Cummins, and will get used this winter. It's a nice digital timer, and a cord that retracts. That way... I can go out to the truck, zip the cord back in... and head to the office.

Time on, depends on how cold it is outside, and how protected the truck is. If it's out in the open, and there's heavy wind... that will draw heat out. If it's close to the house/garage... then it will be better protected.

A half hour will get you up good enough to run. BUT... if you let it on for an hour or more.... then you will also have heat in the cab when you are ready. (The block water will be nice and warm) More that 2 hours is probably overkill, unless it's sitting in a brutal winter storm, and it's -30F out.




 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
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There were a few mornings in the 20's right after I got my truck where I was able to plug it in. I stuck to the routine I used with my cummins - timer set to kick on 2.5hrs before I leave. When I started the truck, the coolant temp was only 90 degrees and it still took 5 miles or so before I had heat. My cummins would always be around 115-120 and have heat within minutes of idling.

I briefly looked into it and think that I read somewhere that the block heater in the ecodiesel will not kick on unless the temp is below some threshold.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Just an FYI on this. (Block heater)

I ordered the Kat's replacement cord last night. It's from Amazon... so I'm sure I will have it in the next couple days. The cord was $10, and a protective cap for the plug end was $4. So... for under $15, I was willing to check it out.
 

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Curious if that inexpensive cord works. I hunt up north on occasion so it's possible I could use one.
 

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Does the good Dr make house calls? Thanks or the post. I will be buying the cable for the trip in Dec to Taos, NM.
 
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