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So here is the conclusion/solution to my front Arnott AS-3017 spring/shock replacement issue. See posts #36 and #38 for details. A trip to the dealer yesterday ran $600 to reset the system to “Plant mode” and purge and refill the system with Nitrogen. The tech ran the system from full down to full up 7x and I had my wife do that 2x on pick up and it works as advertised. So if I was to offer a takeaway, it would be to lower the truck to entry/exit prior to doing the work; forcing the max amount back into the storage tanks. Why didn’t I do that vs leaving it in normal? Because I was doing the work in a shop 15 miles from my home and I didn’t want to run the risk of driving home in entry/ exit mode. Lesson learned and thanks to all the inputs. Total tally for the project for replacements, alignment and dealer reset / refill visit was $2150 vs the dealer quote of $4400 so yeah it was worth it and I got to do the hard stuff myself.
 

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Well the problem is back! In less than 12 hours after paying the dealership, yesterday morning I move the truck out to check the system and it comes back with the “ride selected not available due to payload” message. Frustrating to be sure! Now before the switch to coils talk starts, I have to put the truck into entry/exit mode to fit in the garage due to height restrictions (one antenna forcibly removed by the garage door opener served as a reminder). Again, if you see my previous posts, the only change was using Arnott replacements vs the more expensive Mopar units; which of course had the service advisor pointing fingers at. So here we are with a system that operates intermittently…
HELP! Thanks in advance.
 

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The "ride selected not available due to payload" message is generated when the system "thinks" there is more resistance (weight) than the pressure in the air tanks (force) can move.

First, using AlfaOBD, check your air mass in the system and at each corner to ensure you have enough pressure to raise/lower the truck.

The system air mass should be around 180 bar/liter, and the corners should be around 7 bar/liters
 

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The "ride selected not available due to payload" message is generated when the system "thinks" there is more resistance (weight) than the pressure in the air tanks (force) can move.

First, using AlfaOBD, check your air mass in the system and at each corner to ensure you have enough pressure to raise/lower the truck.

The system air mass should be around 180 bar/liter, and the corners should be around 7 bar/liters
Thanks for the reply. I believe the dealer did those steps during the visit. After diagnostics and clearing codes, they reset the system to plant mode and then accomplished the drain/purge/refill of the nitrogen holding tanks. The tech ran it through complete lowering / raising cycles 7x and my wife did the same twice before leaving the dealership w/o any issues. That’s why we believed the $600 bill was money well spent.
 

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Does anyone else have a similar situation after switching to Arnott replacement parts? I’ve reached out to them via email and hope to hear a reply. I love the ride of air suspension and the fact that it allows me to garage the truck and as previously stated had no issues whatsoever for the first 7 years of ownership but it was time to replace the fronts due to mileage (73k) and ride quality issues.
 

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Thanks for the reply. I believe the dealer did those steps during the visit. After diagnostics and clearing codes, they reset the system to plant mode and then accomplished the drain/purge/refill of the nitrogen holding tanks. The tech ran it through complete lowering / raising cycles 7x and my wife did the same twice before leaving the dealership w/o any issues. That’s why we believed the $600 bill was money well spent.
Whenever I have been working on my system and I get that message it is because I either did not properly purge and fill or there is yet another undetected leak that I have to hunt down.

The way to check for the leak is to pressure up the system from an outside source and then put a gauge on it for a long time - 4 to 12 hours for each section. Once for each corner at the valve block and then once from the valve block back to the reservoir.

You would be amazed at what you find and how easy it is to fix yourself.

However, if you have to rely on greasy greedy dealership incompetence to properly diagnose and fix the best path is to delete your system and go with coil overs.
 

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Thanks for the reply. I believe the dealer did those steps during the visit. After diagnostics and clearing codes, they reset the system to plant mode and then accomplished the drain/purge/refill of the nitrogen holding tanks. The tech ran it through complete lowering / raising cycles 7x and my wife did the same twice before leaving the dealership w/o any issues. That’s why we believed the $600 bill was money well spent.
The key concept is, “does it work 7 times in a row 7 days later.” If there is still a small leak, it takes time for the issues to manifest themselves.

The system will draw in make up air so that it is functional (barely.). What you are seeing is a system that was either not filled up properly or over a period of (short or long) time has leaked out somewhat and is now in limp mode.

Sorry for your frustration - the dealership does not have the inclination to do this properly and can only throw parts and your money at it until “hopefully” it gets fixed.

So far, at 230,000 km, I have had fittings leak, a compressor that wore out, one valve block, and all four bags. If I had to pay someone to do the work, my head would have exploded. It is easy but you need to really step back and take your time and think about it. The issues are often not immediately or intuitively obvious but after it is solved I can look back and go “hmm that is understandable.”
 

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Hello c17flyer, first off do you actually fly those!???

I suspect you performed this operation draining one of the lines of the air ride and the computer that controls the height of the suspension freaked out. Yes you would have lost a little nitrogen or normal air in the process but the system has the ability to replenish itself with normal O2 in the event it doesn't have enough for the system. This is the MAIN issue with this air ride system when it finally gets cold enough for the moisture in the system that develops to freeze and wreak havok on the valving and compressor in the winter.

I would suggest that you use an alpha OBD dongle and the app or get a dealership to put the air ride computer into its function test. It's one of the steps we have to do after purging the air ride system of moisture and recharging with nitrogen. I don't think you broke anything but the computer has to recalibrate how much air mass it has to function properly.

And just an update for anyone following this thread, I have just placed an order at a machine shop for collars that will allow the fitment of the Bilstein 5100 shock body and mate securely with the collar of the air strut with the seal in between.

I will post the results and test on my truck when they are finished.
 

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Ok so that was quick! My local machine shop took the Bilstein sliders and machined them down to match the OD of the OEM plastic gasket retainer as well, chopped off the thin bit (what I've marked in black) and faced up where the gasket would seal between the shock body and the now metal retainer. Maximum strength. I've put the strut back together and is currently holding static air pressure.

I will be checking leak off pressures tomorrow and if all is good i will be onto the next step of preparing to replace the front strut assemblies with my new (to me) OEM airbags with the Bilstein 5100 shocks.

As well, on the upgrade list I'm going to be replacing the suspected leaking rear air bags with slightly less used airbags, and recharging the nitro system before winter. I might also be installing an easy access airline port in the box of the truck so that I can hook up the HVAC manifold to pull a vacuum and recharge the nitrogen without having to remove the tire and the difficult splash shield.

Cheers. 
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Ok so that was quick! My local machine shop took the Bilstein sliders and machined them down to match the OD of the OEM plastic gasket retainer as well, chopped off the thin bit (what I've marked in black) and faced up where the gasket would seal between the shock body and the now metal retainer. Maximum strength. I've put the strut back together and is currently holding static air pressure.

I will be checking leak off pressures tomorrow and if all is good i will be onto the next step of preparing to replace the front strut assemblies with my new (to me) OEM airbags with the Bilstein 5100 shocks.

As well, on the upgrade list I'm going to be replacing the suspected leaking rear air bags with slightly less used airbags, and recharging the nitro system before winter. I might also be installing an easy access airline port in the box of the truck so that I can hook up the HVAC manifold to pull a vacuum and recharge the nitrogen without having to remove the tire and the difficult splash shield.

Cheers. 
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You should make an instructional video on the disassembly of this strut, best of luck on the tests!! I’m very excited to see how this works out!
 

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Hey guys just a quick follow up, It been a busy past few days. The Upgraded air struts are in! Oddly enough everything went really well.

..Despite what a few of the videos i've seen out there say, the only thing you need to remove to get the factory strut out is to pop the Tie rod out and move it to the side. You do not have to take off the upper control arm, or the Sway bar end link. I changed out the second strut assembly start to finish and torqued in 18 minutes (tire and tub removed prior).

Once the new struts and rear air bags were in I charged the system with nitrogen as per procedure and lowered the truck off the stands. Followed by a drop test. Ran into a small issue trying to get the AlphaOBD to perform the Air mass calculation but was able to manually calibrate the ride height. There is a slight size and stroke difference between the 5100 and the factory shocks and i found that with the stock ride calibrations that on normal height it was very close to or was bottoming out. I made some changes in the calibrations and i have it close to where I want it for Normal height but I might fiddle with it down the road. So far i've noticed the steering is much more responsive and stable and tracks much better on sharp corners. Wether thats due to less used airbags or the upgraded dampening system...probably both.

No codes and no stress i'm going to call this project a win.

Jason.
 

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Hey guys just a quick follow up, It been a busy past few days. The Upgraded air struts are in! Oddly enough everything went really well.

..Despite what a few of the videos i've seen out there say, the only thing you need to remove to get the factory strut out is to pop the Tie rod out and move it to the side. You do not have to take off the upper control arm, or the Sway bar end link. I changed out the second strut assembly start to finish and torqued in 18 minutes (tire and tub removed prior).

Once the new struts and rear air bags were in I charged the system with nitrogen as per procedure and lowered the truck off the stands. Followed by a drop test. Ran into a small issue trying to get the AlphaOBD to perform the Air mass calculation but was able to manually calibrate the ride height. There is a slight size and stroke difference between the 5100 and the factory shocks and i found that with the stock ride calibrations that on normal height it was very close to or was bottoming out. I made some changes in the calibrations and i have it close to where I want it for Normal height but I might fiddle with it down the road. So far i've noticed the steering is much more responsive and stable and tracks much better on sharp corners. Wether thats due to less used airbags or the upgraded dampening system...probably both.

No codes and no stress i'm going to call this project a win.

Jason.
Awesome!
 

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I finally figured out how to take apart the air strut.
you have to make sure all the nitrogen is out first. Then remove the top black ring to show the pressed in “C” clips. Next is to compress the fitting to remove the presses in “C” clip. After that remove the bump stop, and you’ll have the shock shaft and nut. Once you remove the nut, you may have to hit the bottom collar of the air back to get it off of the shock.
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I finally figured out how to take apart the air strut.
you have to make sure all the nitrogen is out first. Then remove the top black ring to show the pressed in “C” clips. Next is to compress the fitting to remove the presses in “C” clip. After that remove the bump stop, and you’ll have the shock shaft and nut. Once you remove the nut, you may have to hit the bottom collar of the air back to get it off of the shock. View attachment 90825
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Awesome, thank you!
 

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Once the new struts and rear air bags were in I charged the system with nitrogen as per procedure and lowered the truck off the stands. Followed by a drop test. Ran into a small issue trying to get the AlphaOBD to perform the Air mass calculation but was able to manually calibrate the ride height. There is a slight size and stroke difference between the 5100 and the factory shocks and i found that with the stock ride calibrations that on normal height it was very close to or was bottoming out. I made some changes in the calibrations and i have it close to where I want it for Normal height but I might fiddle with it down the road. So far i've noticed the steering is much more responsive and stable and tracks much better on sharp corners. Wether thats due to less used airbags or the upgraded dampening system...probably both.


Jason.
Could you trick the system with adjustable links instead of going through AlphaOBD? Or even setting the strut “c” clip higher on the body to allow more out of the shock?
Not only a shock replacement but a level too. There’s a good idea!
 
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