[UHBrandt]

I'm going to bump this old thread. Raise it from the dead.. ALOT more people need to be aware of this fix/fixes. I myself just bought a '15 ecodiesel Limited. As you can probably guess, with air suspension. Two days from purchase I already have issues with the rear riding on the bump stops. I will start gathering supplies to implement @UHBrandt fix. Thanks to him and everyone else contributing to this thread. I now know there is a fix to this problem, instead of going over waves of information saying to just dump the truck and regret my purchase. One question if anybody knows, where is the best place to buy the replacement bags? In order to avoid cheap knock offs. (While also avoiding gouging dealer pricing.)
Thanks in Advance.

I would suggest Arnott brand. There are other brands but that is the one I used - via Rockauto

 

[Bounty Hunter]

I'm going to bump this old thread. Raise it from the dead.. ALOT more people need to be aware of this fix/fixes. I myself just bought a '15 ecodiesel Limited. As you can probably guess, with air suspension. Two days from purchase I already have issues with the rear riding on the bump stops. I will start gathering supplies to implement @UHBrandt fix. Thanks to him and everyone else contributing to this thread. I now know there is a fix to this problem, instead of going over waves of information saying to just dump the truck and regret my purchase. One question if anybody knows, where is the best place to buy the replacement bags? In order to avoid cheap knock offs. (While also avoiding gouging dealer pricing.)
Thanks in Advance.

RockAuto carries the air suspension parts. Also www.carid.com

 

[MatthiasNagel]

I’ve a weird issue with my air suspension.
It goes down on the passenger side when parked but not all the time. Truck won’t hold the passenger side (also happen not all the time) while towing my travel trailer. Trailer tongue weight is 660lbs. Suspension always works while driving without the trailer.
My mechanic and two dealer can’t figure it out. Even FCA has no idea what it could be.

I had my compressor and valve block replaced. Tested for leaks but couldn’t find any.
The dealers and my mechanic point to my air suspension control module but they are not sure if it is the issue so they don’t want to just throw parts at it.

Anyone has an idea???

TIA, Matthias

 

[UHBrandt]

I’ve a weird issue with my air suspension.
It goes down on the passenger side when parked but not all the time. Truck won’t hold the passenger side (also happen not all the time) while towing my travel trailer. Trailer tongue weight is 660lbs. Suspension always works while driving without the trailer.
My mechanic and two dealer can’t figure it out. Even FCA has no idea what it could be.

I had my compressor and valve block replaced. Tested for leaks but couldn’t find any.
The dealers and my mechanic point to my air suspension control module but they are not sure if it is the issue so they don’t want to just throw parts at it.

Anyone has an idea???

TIA, Matthias

I would suggest that you do have a leak in the folds of the air bladder. The rubberized fabric will essentially seal itself along the fold when the vehicle is stationary, which is why they can’t find the leak. This self sealing factor is also the cause for intermittent nature as to when the side drops.

The system is also under pressured because the tiny compressor cannot get the make-up air to the 170 psi it needs to be to function normally.
Pin hole leaks along the bladder folds are very common. This is where the material is always flexing and eventually cracks due to the stress.

if you hook up a gauge to the reservoir recharge points I would be very surprised if you got more than 110psi.

Once they stop reading theMopar tech Authority manual and actual open up some of these worn out suspension components it will all make sense but until then it is definitely not intuitive.

 

[MacRAM]

I’ve a weird issue with my air suspension.
It goes down on the passenger side when parked but not all the time. Truck won’t hold the passenger side (also happen not all the time) while towing my travel trailer. Trailer tongue weight is 660lbs. Suspension always works while driving without the trailer.
My mechanic and two dealer can’t figure it out. Even FCA has no idea what it could be.

I had my compressor and valve block replaced. Tested for leaks but couldn’t find any.
The dealers and my mechanic point to my air suspension control module but they are not sure if it is the issue so they don’t want to just throw parts at it.

Anyone has an idea???

TIA, Matthias

I had the same thing and and the poster above hits the nail on the head. The end up with minute leaks that self seal depending on the temp and conditions. Luckily, my dealer was awesome and first replaced the 2 rear bags under warranty, then shortly after the fronts for the same reason. They just lather them up and run a leak down test. Both times found the culprit.

I loved the air suspension on the RAM, but for me reached the conclusion that having it was awesome. Not having warranty with them as they age, is not awesome.



Sent from my SM-G981W using Tapatalk

 

[MatthiasNagel]

uggghhhh...that sounds awful expensive. Just looked at moparpartscanada.ca and one rear spring is 656CAD and one front spring is 1,614CAD. Don't know if its the front or rear spring which is leaking if it is.

I'm way past my warranty with over 221,000km and I wonder if I should go with an air suspension delete kit for approx. 2400CAD and be done with it. Few month back I already put a new compressor in for 1,800CAD.

Thanks so much for your answers!

 

[UHBrandt]

uggghhhh...that sounds awful expensive. Just looked at moparpartscanada.ca and one rear spring is 656CAD and one front spring is 1,614CAD. Don't know if its the front or rear spring which is leaking if it is.

I'm way past my warranty with over 221,000km and I wonder if I should go with an air suspension delete kit for approx. 2400CAD and be done with it. Few month back I already put a new compressor in for 1,800CAD.

Thanks so much for your answers!

I would agree with the delete. The average life expectancy has more than been met at 220,000 km.

Unless you can do the air ride repair/refresh work yourself the most cost effective approach is to delete.

Take care.

BTW I also have over 220K and have been repairing my system. It is not hard but requires some preexisting wrench turning knowledge. On a scale from 1 to 5 it is about a 3 in difficulty. It is possible to get better Arnott aftermarket parts for about 1/2 what mopar charges and if you really stretch and then sell the truck right away Chinese knockoffs for about 1/4.

 

[MatthiasNagel]

Wrench turning I'm not afraid of. It's tricky sometimes but I get it done. Just did recently my wheel hub, ball joints and brakes in the front. What I don't have is the computer which you need to run all the tests or reset/add parameters after changing anything on the air suspension. I also don't have nitrogen to fill the system.

Thanks for your advice. Much appreciated.

 

[Gunner]

I want to start a thread around the factory Air Suspension because it appears many have had issues with it in cold weather, including myself. This is my 3rd Winter and I experienced the blown fuse first and then situations when the suspension will not operate. I have an extended warranty and brought it to the dealer and their answer is that they will just replace the Air Supply Unit (ASU)

There doesn't appear to be a lot of technical information on it and a lot of misinformation posted on it so here goes....

I have a Foxwell Tool with the Chrysler specific add-on so I can access the Air Suspension module to view codes, metrics, and run tests. This is what I understand so far, and if anyone wants to correct any items please feel free to make suggestions:

1.. First and foremost. The Air Ride Suspension is designed as a sealed nitrogen filled system and does not have the capability to bring in outside air unless commanded with the fill port and procedure. It is manufactured by Continental Automotive.
2.. The system does have the ability to vent to atmosphere with the vent located in the passenger rear taillight area. It is unclear on what commands this to take place but there are test procedures to vent each bag to atmosphere and I think if your ASU is locked up and you hit transport mode you vent to atmosphere.
3.. There are 2 tanks (Reservoir High/Low), the ASU, Air Suspension Control Module (ASCM), Bags, and Level Sensors.
4.. The ASU contains the air dryer, compressor, exhaust valve, valve block, pressure sensor, and temperature sensor.
5.. There have been numerous revisions to the ASU to deal with cold temperature issues. The latest was in late 2016 and involved changes to components to prevent lockup of the compressor head due to dissimilar expansion and contraction of materials. (My Dealer tells me there is a new upcoming revision to the control module to fix the fuse blowing issues)
6.. The unit needs to do a Air Mass Calculation to bring it into operation anytime you utilize testing procedures. (Plant Mode). This Air Mass Calculation is needed because the nitrogen is dispersed through the components at any point in time so it needs to get a true calculation of how much nitrogen the system has in the system. It does this by checking the pressure of each bag, tank, and the reservoir. The reservoir is charged to 175 PSI when new and again, it has the ability to sustain many vents to atmosphere before it will reach the point where the Air Mass is not enough for the system to operate.

From an issue perspective the system appears to have 2 levels of codes:

Yellow - "Service Air Suspension" or "Ride Height Not Permitted" - The system has pressure but the ASU has a code or the ASU is responding but is not able to execute function. It will be yellow the air bags are inflated and within a certain level or height spec.
Red - "Service Air Suspension Now" - The ASU is not responding at all, the system has low or no pressure, one or more bags has no pressure or below normal ride height or differential.

When looking at issues, they appear to be broken down into:

System Leak - There is a leak either to Tank or Atmosphere.
ASU or ASCM Failure or Frozen - The ASU or ASCM is not responding or unable to complete command.

Basically if your truck is on the bump stops, you have a leak. If the leak is to the atmosphere, your truck will at some point in time run out of nitrogen in the reservoir and you will get a Red Code. If the truck is more or less level and not in entry mode, you will get a yellow code. There are circumstances though that can result in your tuck lowering slightly after huge temp swings because the truck has a timer when shutoff to where it will level the truck. Once leveled, it will not run the ASU to level it until you start the truck.

If anyone wants to add anything, please feel free.

Cheers,

There is also air intake filter located in the passenger rear taillight area. If sealed then why air intake

 

[Gunner]

I am not familiar with this system but since this seems to be cold weather related I can't help but wonder if the system would handle some air brake antifreeze ? the air brake antifreeze also lubricates and conditions valves and seals ect. it works quite well on air systems.

My problem starts at 30 degree F.

 

[Gunner]

That would make a lot of sense. I suspect the thinking is, “if it is closed system, it should not have any moisture in it. If it does, it has a leak.”

I did add a small amount and it did help but after further research, I found that many o-ring materials and lots of plastics and rubber do not work well in the the long run with brake line antifreeze. Not knowing what the o-rings, the tubing and the rubber air bladders are made of I decided to purge the system to remove the antifreeze.

The system could certainly be designed to work with antifreeze and regular compressed air. It is a maintenance item, though, that the average owner may my not wish, or know how, to deal with.

Can you share source of your research? I certainly can't find information on the system to do a compatibility study.

 

[Cflor005]

I’d also like to start off by being thankful for this thread.

I have a 2016 truck with 134k miles. My issue consisted of the truck dropping to the bump stops when lightly loaded (300 lbs in bed). I believe my valve block went bad since the dealership claimed that the truck showed no leaks. Also, I live in South Florida, so my issues are not related to the cold weather climate.

I started by taking the truck to the dealership. They could not replicate the problem, mostly because they didn’t recreate the conditions (adding weight to the bed and letting it sit). Still, I had them change the compressor assembly (compressor + valve block), but they only changed the compressor. Problem still persisted afterwards.

At this point I read up on the problem, including this thread, and decided to tackle the valve block replacement myself. Considering the miles I had on my truck I followed through with someone’s recommendation and proceeded to change all 4 air springs as well.

Original problem fixed! Truck does not fall to bump stops when loaded! But!!!!! Somehow I created a new problem during the refilling procedure. I get a C15DA - Payload limit exceeded DTC. I believe I pinpointed the problem.

Two of my ride height readings are abnormally high (6000mm range). See attached photo. I changed the two sensors and they still read high. Does anyone have experience with this? I tried resetting the control module with my Foxwell tool, but it doesn’t fix the problem. I also own AlfaOBD. I went ahead and ordered a new control module, but I figured I add my own experience and issue to the thread. I have seen threads and videos on people shorting the two battery terminals to themselves. Apparently this drains the hold-up capacitors of the control modules, but I am hesitant on doing so for the sake of not creating some other problem. Thanks in advance.

 

[alistairg]

View attachment 91063
I’d also like to start off by being thankful for this thread.

I have a 2016 truck with 134k miles. My issue consisted of the truck dropping to the bump stops when lightly loaded (300 lbs in bed). I believe my valve block went bad since the dealership claimed that the truck showed no leaks. Also, I live in South Florida, so my issues are not related to the cold weather climate.

I started by taking the truck to the dealership. They could not replicate the problem, mostly because they didn’t recreate the conditions (adding weight to the bed and letting it sit). Still, I had them change the compressor assembly (compressor + valve block), but they only changed the compressor. Problem still persisted afterwards.

At this point I read up on the problem, including this thread, and decided to tackle the valve block replacement myself. Considering the miles I had on my truck I followed through with someone’s recommendation and proceeded to change all 4 air springs as well.

Original problem fixed! Truck does not fall to bump stops when loaded! But!!!!! Somehow I created a new problem during the refilling procedure. I get a C15DA - Payload limit exceeded DTC. I believe I pinpointed the problem.

Two of my ride height readings are abnormally high (6000mm range). See attached photo. I changed the two sensors and they still read high. Does anyone have experience with this? I tried resetting the control module with my Foxwell tool, but it doesn’t fix the problem. I also own AlfaOBD. I went ahead and ordered a new control module, but I figured I add my own experience and issue to the thread. I have seen threads and videos on people shorting the two battery terminals to themselves. Apparently this drains the hold-up capacitors of the control modules, but I am hesitant on doing so for the sake of not creating some other problem. Thanks in advance.

Hello,

I have been reading this thread for clues on how to tackle my air suspension issues and just read your post.

The reading of 6492.3mm has to be incorrect. That number is equivalent to more than 6 meters! I am 5'11" = 1.78 meters ... no way the suspension is over 6 meters! No help I am sure but I wanted to provide some context the the reading you are seeing.

My question, how did you reset the control module using the Foxwell tool?

According to my alfaobd readings I have two fault codes (C15A0 and C159F) and based off what I can find (here: Air Suspension Glitch with Ram) on these codes I am to "reprogram the ASCM with the latest software" ... of course I have no idea how to achieve that, maybe via the Foxwell tool?

 

[uncledaniel12]

Hey guys,

Happy to find an informative thread about this topic. After 5 years of Canadian winters, I have finally started to get the dreaded air suspension issues on my truck.

A message appeared on my EVIC:
“Immediate Air Suspension Service/Repair Required”.

Fortunately, the truck threw this error while in normal ride height so I don’t have an issue with current driveabilty. However, when I press the console buttons, nothing changes and the little yellow LEDs don’t flash. Have been driving on it for 4 days now in normal ride height with no issue.

I have checked the 20A, 40A fuse and the air suspension relay in the PDC, both of which are good. The truck has no sag or lean on any side/corner.

I scanned the ASCM with AlfaOBD and got the codes in the picture. I cleared them and the 2 reverse valve codes immediately came back but the ride height pressure code has not over the last 4 days.

I attached a picture of the codes and AlfaOBD log of ASCM.

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[UHBrandt]

Hey guys,

Happy to find an informative thread about this topic. After 5 years of Canadian winters, I have finally started to get the dreaded air suspension issues on my truck.

A message appeared on my EVIC:
“Immediate Air Suspension Service/Repair Required”.

Fortunately, the truck threw this error while in normal ride height so I don’t have an issue with current driveabilty. However, when I press the console buttons, nothing changes and the little yellow LEDs don’t flash. Have been driving on it for 4 days now in normal ride height with no issue.

I have checked the 20A, 40A fuse and the air suspension relay in the PDC, both of which are good. The truck has no sag or lean on any side/corner.

I scanned the ASCM with AlfaOBD and got the codes in the picture. I cleared them and the 2 reverse valve codes immediately came back but the ride height pressure code has not over the last 4 days.

I attached a picture of the codes and AlfaOBD log of ASCM.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A really good source of information is a face book public group called FCA RAM pick up AIR Suspension Failures. The link is Войдите на Facebook

Your reservoir pressure is on the low side 7.96 bar and the compressor has been drawing in outside air The pressure should be in the 150 to 175 psi range and 7.96 bar is about 115 psi. This is functional but not optimal. Your are in limp mode for all intensive purposes and the issues are going to compound over time.

You have a leak in your system - most likely one or both rear bags this early on the game.

Fix it or delete it. Although, unless you are under warranty or can fix it yourself - Delete is the best option.

 

[uncledaniel12]

A really good source of information is a face book public group called Войдите на Facebook

Your reservoir pressure is on the low side 7.96 bar and the compressor has been drawing in outside air The pressure should be in the 150 to 175 psi range and 7.96 bar is about 115 psi. This is functional but not optimal. Your are in limp mode for all intensive purposes and the issues are going to compound over time.

You have a leak in your system - most likely one or both rear bags this early on the game.

Fix it or delete it. Although, unless you are under warranty or can fix it yourself - Delete is the best option.

Perfect, will have a look. I plan on fixing myself. Just ordered a vacuum pump, HVAC hoses, nitrogen regulator and an R tank of nitrogen. Would it be wise to temporarily fix this by draining the system and refilling? Or just topping it off? If I drain, would the compressor even work to refill the bags without being replaced?

My latest scan shows a pressure of 8.37 Bar as well. Still low

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[UHBrandt]

Perfect, will have a look. I plan on fixing myself. Just ordered a vacuum pump, HVAC hoses, nitrogen regulator and an R tank of nitrogen. Would it be wise to temporarily fix this by draining the system and refilling? Or just topping it off? If I drain, would the compressor even work to refill the bags without being replaced?

My latest scan shows a pressure of 8.37 Bar as well. Still low

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think it is best to repair the leak and then purge the system. There will undoubtedly be a small of moisture present and this can cause problems especially in a winter climate. The compressor “might” work to get the system up to around 115 psi but it would just draw in more moisture.

Repressurng the system is not the primary purpose of the compressor, which is really designed to shuttle pressure back to the reservoir which should be about 170-175 psi

 

[UHBrandt]

Can you share source of your research? I certainly can't find information on the system to do a compatibility study.

My sources are the MOPAR Tech Authority manual and a variety of blogs, posts and groups related to air suspensions in general. It has been collected over three years, and I cannot find a definitive set of info to point you towards.

The Mopar manual is not well written but is the only OEM source of info. For example, it states that the system is closed. However, this is only partially true. A correct statement would be the system operates as a closed system until there is a leak, at which point the compressor will draw in makeup air to help maintain operability.

 

[uncledaniel12]

I agree that fixing the leak is of utmost importance. Would it be wise to top the system up to 175PSI with more nitrogen and UV dye so that I can detect the leak quickly?

 

[UHBrandt]

I agree that fixing the leak is of utmost importance. Would it be wise to top the system up to 175PSI with more nitrogen and UV dye so that I can detect the leak quickly?

I’m not sure how well the dye would work. It may help me detect areas where you have a line of sight. Also, It may not vaporize enough to be able to travel where the leaks are.