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This is a screenshot from the WiTech the dealers use. The system is sealed, it doesn't use outside air.

I have a suspicion that techs may be using shop air instead of nitrogen to add to these systems causing problems. Even if the shop runs an air drier, it's still has a bunch of moisture in it compared to nitrogen. There is a refill tool needed to use nitrogen, basically just a pressure regulator.
Let's go one further on outside air. I know there has been at least one owner whose air spring was found to have a small hole in it. From what I've read, the system would attempt to maintain the air spring via a closed loop reservoir. Eventually that reservoir would exhaust what reserve it has, so what happens then? Does the whole system shut down with error messages to the EVIC? Just wondering out loud and yes, I know there have been minimal reports of problems, but nothing lasts forever so just putting it out there.
 

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Let's go one further on outside air. I know there has been at least one owner whose air spring was found to have a small hole in it. From what I've read, the system would attempt to maintain the air spring via a closed loop reservoir. Eventually that reservoir would exhaust what reserve it has, so what happens then? Does the whole system shut down with error messages to the EVIC? Just wondering out loud and yes, I know there have been minimal reports of problems, but nothing lasts forever so just putting it out there.
I can confirm that all the Nitrogen Leaked out of my system due to a couple of issues (happened 3 times). The entire system would shut down, with a Service Air Suspension Immediately in EVIC. Before all of the Nitrogen leaked out, I would get random errors, such as Payload to heavy, etc. This was due to the system not being able to pressurize one of the Air Shocks - which eventually lead to it not being able to do any of them.

Final fix was to replace both back Air Shocks, as they had pin hole leaks.

Have not had an issue since.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Now that I understand how this air suspension works, the only reason I am having moisture freezing problems is that the dealer is either not using nitrogen, or the proper nitrogen or they are not purging all the air from the lines before adding nitrogen. Does anyone have a service bulletin on how to completely remove and refill the nitrogen for this system as I may try and do this myself if it’s not to crazy complicated or needs any specialized tools.
 

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You will need a HVAC vacuum pump, A/C service hoses and a tank of nitrogen. Just find a good A/C guy, most of them carry a tank of nitrogen. If the system was open I would pull vacuum then refill with nitrogen and do this two more times.
I am suspecting the systems were not vacuumed properly at the factory, who knows if they even pulled vacuum???
I have read at some places the pressure should be 225PSI and at another 175PSI. I did fill mine to 225PSI when I had to change my front shock 35000 miles ago, so far so good.
 

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2016 Limited in frigid Ontario Canada with 105000 miles and never had a problem with the Air Suspension. I tow 5 different trailers too including a tandem axle 3200 lb dumper with a 3800 lb mini ex.
 

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He said the dealer replaced the pump several times already. The shop would have had to evacuate and re-pressurize the system to factory specs which would be nitrogen. My Ram is a 2016 model, when I was shopping the Ram, I couldn't find a dealer with a demo truck that had the air system so I didn't get that option. Reading this thread makes me glad I didn't get it. Unfortunate this happened to the few of you who are having problems. What stings is that the air shocks were an expensive option. To have them behave like the author described is unacceptable.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Ya I have all of these the Refrigeration gauges and hoses and the vacuum pump. I could evacuate the system to hopefully a few hundred microns to boil off whatever moisture is in the system. Will have to see what connection are on this system as I really doubt they will be Refrigeration fittings. I will be able to tell if there is a leak if I hook up the gauges and the pressure slowly drop. I read the work order from the dealership and they say they did an evacuation and filled with nitrogen to specified specs. But somehow Air is continually getting into this system.
 

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SaskStrong the gauges if I remember right are the ones with the automotive hookups. The ports have black caps and are hard see and reach, your hands will be your eyes in this endeavor.
 

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As the second half of that paragraph says, the system will take in outside air
I agree, The first paragraph states it is a "closed type system", and I don't think it's a coincident that it doesn't simply state "closed system" or "entirely closed system". Also talks about the valve block that separates the system into individual zones. From examining this valve block, I know there actually 6 zones: RF, LF, RR, LR, Comp, Out. The second paragraph goes on to explain in detail that there is a filtered outside air line on the compressor that will bring in outside air and thus moisture if there is insufficient pressure in a zone. I've physically seen this filtered line, it's behind the passenger side tail light and goes directly into the compressor. This paragraph also states that this isn't the line to charge the entire system, there is a different place in the system to manually service or charge the entire system. If there is not enough Nitrogen in the onboard tanks, then the compressor "WILL" draw outside air through this filtered air line on the compressor. So if Nitrogen leaks out, and this backup fails to pressurize a zone, then service air suspension message will be displayed.

My air ride worked flawlessly until this January. The quick fix that worked for me this year was having a small amount of air brake line anti-freeze put into the lines that were freezing to eliminate the moisture that was freezing in the lines. My air suspension immediately went from dropping to working flawlessly in -24F temperatures. I will also be having the system checked for leaks, which I'm certain is the root cause, and recharged with nitrogen.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
This has been a great post with lots of good information. Thanks all for your input. I think the next time it fails around January I will have have them look for a leak and hopefully find one as this is getting ridiculous, the air line antifreeze sounds like a good quick fix, possibly put this antifreeze in every winter and maybe that will eliminate the problem.
 

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Totally makes sense now why I had freezing problems (initially). There were leaks in my system that allowed Air/Moisture in. The problems started last year (Up until then the system had worked flawless). The dealer kept telling me that it was just because it was cold - but I advised if that was the case, why did it work fine the first two winters? (The first winter I had the truck, it was a pretty cold winter).

The dealer does have a procedure for drying out the system, but I believe they have to go to Head Office, before they are authorized to do it (at least that is what happened in my case). But when that did not work - and I lost all the Nitrogen for the 2nd time - it pointed to yet another leak.

One thing that was helpful is that I continued to deal with the same Service Adviser, and she would request a technician who was the most experienced. I think it also helped that I did not lose it on her (though it was tempting). At the end of the day they were trying their best to assist, and recognized this was not just a "cold" issue. But it was a pain to track down (there were at least 3 separate leaks, before they could finally diagnose the small leaks from the rear shocks).

Will see how it goes next winter.
 

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Totally makes sense now why I had freezing problems (initially). There were leaks in my system that allowed Air/Moisture in. The problems started last year (Up until then the system had worked flawless). The dealer kept telling me that it was just because it was cold - but I advised if that was the case, why did it work fine the first two winters? (The first winter I had the truck, it was a pretty cold winter).

The dealer does have a procedure for drying out the system, but I believe they have to go to Head Office, before they are authorized to do it (at least that is what happened in my case). But when that did not work - and I lost all the Nitrogen for the 2nd time - it pointed to yet another leak.

One thing that was helpful is that I continued to deal with the same Service Adviser, and she would request a technician who was the most experienced. I think it also helped that I did not lose it on her (though it was tempting). At the end of the day they were trying their best to assist, and recognized this was not just a "cold" issue. But it was a pain to track down (there were at least 3 separate leaks, before they could finally diagnose the small leaks from the rear shocks).

Will see how it goes next winter.
Can you share a little more about your leaks? How did you become aware of them? Was it messages on the EVIC? Did you hear the compressor running continually? Also, did your truck drop to the bump stops? Just curious as I wonder at what point the system would no longer attempt to supply additional air and if the compressor just continually run to accomodate a leak? There must be a point where it will no longer be willing or able to supply the additional air and send messages to the EVIC.
 

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I had mine freeze up once when it was 30 below. I put a heater underneath it replaced the fuse and been fine since. Semi trucks use dryer systems and have to believe it can be done on the ram system! 3 winters so far all good and love the truck!
 

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Semi trucks use dryer systems and have to believe it can be done on the ram system! 3 winters so far all good and love the truck!
Semi's also use alcohol or other liquid to keep their lines from freezing because they use outside air, not nitrogen.
 

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Yeah they have a desiccant cartridge on an air dryer and as bounty stated use outside air.. We sell a lot of air brake anti-freeze here at KW when the temps start to plummet.. Their braking systems depend on a fully functioning air system as well so definitely super important for the big rigs to have it!
 

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Before I ordered my 2017, I read about multiple problems with air suspensions in cold weather. Thus I skipped on my order sheet.
Still have room for 34" tires on factory suspension if I put 2" blocks on front, which I will do on next tires.
 

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Can you share a little more about your leaks? How did you become aware of them? Was it messages on the EVIC? Did you hear the compressor running continually? Also, did your truck drop to the bump stops? Just curious as I wonder at what point the system would no longer attempt to supply additional air and if the compressor just continually run to accomodate a leak? There must be a point where it will no longer be willing or able to supply the additional air and send messages to the EVIC.
My truck was in the dealership 5 or 6 times. First started out with EVIC Messages, generally that I had a payload problem or service immediately. I would be down on the Front Left Shock (could be seen clearly) - at first when it warmed up, it would fix itself, pointing to a Valve Block freezing issue and/or compressor problems.

Once those two items were replaced (on separate visits) I thought the problem was fixed. The day I got the Truck back from the dealer, I parked it on the road to clear my driveway. By the time I was done, the Truck was down on all 4 sides to the bump stops (Maybe 20 minutes max). When the dealer looked at it again, I was informed that all the Nitrogen had leaked out (there was a service air suspension message in EVIC).

Each time one leak was fixed, it would last a little longer, but eventually would be flat on all 4 corners (it was really fun driving with full shocks on the right side, and nothing on the left side). Each time the diagnosis would be the same - no Nitrogen in the system, and another leak tracked down.

In answer to your questions on these leaks:
1) No I did not hear the compressor running constantly. I would hear it come on/off as per normal, at least until the system was empty. Then the compressor would not run.
2) Truck went to the bump stops, as there was nothing left in the system to inflate the bags. This would indicate it did not take in outside air to replace what was lost.
 

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This is a screenshot from the WiTech the dealers use. The system is sealed, it doesn't use outside air.
Crash,thanks for all your work! I am not trying to beat you up, but this info is erroneous. Please look for a system diagram instead, that would be an authoritative source.

The system NORMALLY does not use outside air, but, at least in some problem "use cases" it will start taking in outside air. (maybe not in all)
I have been shown the air intake hose and the outside air filter on the end of it, which they replaced.... it was dirty from too much use.
They have changed most everything in my system(so I am rather familiar with it), and I am on my 4th or 5th compressor(I forget),

This system not only takes in air from outside, it also vents to the outside, right in front of the passenger tail light! If you have a seriously malfunctioning truck, you will hear it. Sometimes mine goes in cycles for 8 minutes, taking in air through the breather tube, then venting, taking in air, venting again and again, till it (overheats or something) finally shuts it off. I have lots of audio of this wondrous feat.

Taking in all this air leaves a lot of moisture in the system for freezing. My dealer is excellent for occasionally draining the system and replacing it with fresh Nitrogen, koodos to them. (Not to FCA and their contemptuous customer (dont) care dept)

BTW, a couple of months ago I got my newest compressor. My tech told me it is faster than the others, and quieter as well. I concur it seems faster, and is way quieter! (my first and second were original type, next were the new lubricated O-ring ones, but my latest compressor is truly an improvement)
 
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