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Discussion Starter #1
So for those that have run across a freezing compressor and want to head off issues before they cost a pile of money, here's what I did.

Supplies:
R-134a Gauge Set
Nitrogen tank from local welding supply store
Nitrogen regulator
Adapter
Vacuum pump

That's really all it tkes. I had to get a little creative with the adapter to get from the nitrogen regulator to the yellow line on my R-134a set but it's doable.

Drop the suspension to entry/exit. Pull the fuse that controls the system. Connect the blue line from the A/C gauge set to the tanks, between bed and frame rail on passenger side behind the rear tire. Vent the system to air. Connect the vacuum pump and pull as close to a perfect vacuum as it can get. Ideally leave it running for a bit just like you would on an A/C system to allow any water to boil off.

This next step I had to get creative because I had a leak I couldn't find with soap. Get a bottle of airbrake antifreeze and some UV A/C dye. Put some of the UV dye into the airbrake antifreeze bottle. Close the valves on the gauge set and disconnect from the vacuum pump. Take that hose end, insert it in the bottle of airbrake antifreeze/dye and open the valves to pull some into the tanks. Be careful not to pull too much, i used maybe 1/4 of a quart bottle at max. Close valves once this has been accomplished.

Now connect that line to the regulator from the nitrogen tank. Open the nitrogen valve and adjust the regulator to around 100 PSI to start. Open valve on the gauge set and watch the system fill. Once I hit 100 psi I slowly increased regulator pressure until I had around 125 PSI showing on the regulator. Now reinstall your fuse and set the truck to normal ride height. As the suspension comes up the regulator will continue to maintain around 125 psi. Once the truck is at normal height you can turn it back off, turn off the valve on the tank and disconnect everything.

Now you've got a clean fill of nitrogen with some alcohol in the tanks to help dissipate any water as well as UV dye that you can see with a UV light if you're trying to find a leak. I've done this a couple times as I chased down leaks and my system appears to be sealed back up like new.
 

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I purchased the exact same setup last winter, as well as the WiTech programmer (Chinese clone) to vent the bags to atmosphere and vacuum the entire system. One question though, all my documentation says too charge the system to 175psi, is there a reason you stopped at 125psi?

Side note, I'm installing a new compressor and valve block next week. Purchased from a legit Chinese air suspension supplier, Compressor was $290, valve block was $70.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I think starting out you’re ok to go to 175. Mine once settled wants to sit at normal ride height just under 120 psi. Any more and it vents the excess to atmosphere. I think starting at 175 with bags emptied gets you wiggle room as the truck rises so you don’t accidentally take in atmospheric air during the initial inflation
 

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Great info. Luckily i live south just outside of Chicago and have not had any air suspension issues YET. Rest assured when i do the system is gone and will be replace by a full standard FOX 2.0 suspension setup from Dirtking.
 

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2015 Outdoorsman EcoD CC w/6.4' 4X4
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Supplies:
R-134a Gauge Set
Nitrogen tank from local welding supply store
Nitrogen regulator
Adapter
Vacuum pump

That's really all it takes. I had to get a little creative with the adapter to get from the nitrogen regulator to the yellow line on my R-134a set but it's doable.
You center hose is most like a 1/4" flare unless they are automotive specific gauge set which uses Acme fittings. Any refrigeration supply house has those the fittings.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
That fitting was the one thing I didn't note where I got it when I put the kit together for mine
 
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