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Discussion Starter #1
Curious if anyone out there is towing their boat trailer with electric brakes you've added yourself?

I do **not** mean Electric Over Hydraulic, I'm asking about straight Electric Brakes like you find on TT.

I'm looking into adding new bearings + hub kit like this one here online onto my 3,100 lbs single axle trailer.
https://www.etrailer.com/question-206014.html?fb=yes

I know its fairly light & the truck brakes work fine. My main goal is to just increase my available braking power for added safety & secondarily allow less of a braking load on the truck's brakes.

I've already confirmed my trailer has the square bracket on ends of axle form factory for trailer brakes. And I've researched that the electric brakes will likely require replacement every few years if used in a salt water environment. I'm hoping to at least partially mitigate the issue by setting the gain to "0" and unplugging from the truck any time I'm around the boat ramp. And rinsing thoroughly.

I have a flat 5 pin connector so I know I'll have to change it to the 7-pin round to use the integrated brake controller in the truck, but since I have 5th wire already from the trailer mfg, I'm thinking it won't be too bad of a project.

I welcome anyone's thoughts whose had an experience adding brakes to the trailer. Hopefully someone is out there whose already done something similar.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Just a quick update for anyone interested in adding electric brakes to their trailer.

Its pretty simple parts list. Total time: 6 hours. ~$500 per axle

I finished the conversion over to full electric brakes for my single axle pontoon trailer this April. (i know....I know ..... EOH is superior but I figured I give this a shot from a cost perspective)

The Brakes work pretty decent, definitely help stop me faster and less wear on the truck. Hoked right up to & was recognized by my factory installed integrated brake controlled without any issues.

One thing - I'm surprised I need the gain set as high as "8.5" at highway speeds for Light Electric Trailer + boat that weights <3,500 lbs total. I think it might have something to do with my trailer mfg factory brake flanges being mounted as a "diamond" instead of a square so perhaps that's making the brakes less effective...

I posted my complete Bill of Materials below should anyone else want to see my materials sheet for a similar project fo their own.

View attachment Your etrailer (R) order .jpg
 

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2015 Outdoorsman EcoD CC w/6.4' 4X4
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One thing - I'm surprised I need the gain set as high as "8.5" at highway speeds for Light Electric Trailer + boat that weights <3,500 lbs total. I think it might have something to do with my trailer mfg factory brake flanges being mounted as a "diamond" instead of a square so perhaps that's making the brakes less effective...
Did you do an I initial adjustment of the brakes? Only other thing that might warrant a higher brake setting is the brakes still need to "bed in" with the rotors?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Did you do an I initial adjustment of the brakes? Only other thing that might warrant a higher brake setting is the brakes still need to "bed in" with the rotors?
Crash - - Good thought. I did complete the initial break in period per the mfg instructions.

The brakes are self adjusting so maybe the wear-in period is longer than a few hundred miles and it will change.
 

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Crash - - Good thought. I did complete the initial break in period per the mfg instructions.

The brakes are self adjusting so maybe the wear-in period is longer than a few hundred miles and it will change.
I installed electric brakes on my 18' fishing boat trailer 5 or 6 years ago. Wasn't to bad of a job. Mine where self adjusting also but I was fairly certain that they still needed a initial adjustment and then a break in period of cycling. I do remember after a hundred miles or so got better.
 

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The brakes are self adjusting so maybe the wear-in period is longer than a few hundred miles and it will change.
Even though they are self adjusting, just like drum brakes on a vehicle which are also self adjusting, they need to be manually adjusted initially.
 
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