RAM 1500 Diesel Forum banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,421 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
This is the head I use with multiple trunnion bars. It is a Reese style. What I need to do is find a draw bar that will drop it at leas an inch more. Right now the base of the ball is at the top of the 2" draw bar. The head is 2" wide, same as the bar.

85763


Sure it would be nice to find a 2 1/2" wide bar but to use the head it can only be 2" wide. I have an adapter for the 2 1/2" hitch receiver on the truck.

With a caliper on the hitch here and you can see the drop.
85764


From the bottom of the draw bar to the bottom bold is about 4.6". I need something that has the top bolt hole a good 1" lower than the bottom of the drawbar and has holes down the same distance so I can use the head.

Been looking and looking but not finding. Any ideas?
 

·
Super Moderator
2015 Outdoorsman EcoD CC w/6.4' 4X4
Joined
·
4,349 Posts
Sure it would be nice to find a 2 1/2" wide bar but to use the head it can only be 2" wide. I have an adapter for the 2 1/2" hitch receiver on the truck.
Is this about what your looking for?
It has a 2" head with a 2.5" shank for your hitch on the truck. The holes on the head 0.75" that are spaced 1.25" apart center to center.


Reese offers this for 2.5":

The rest from Reese:
 

·
Registered
2016 1500 EcoDiesel tradesmen
Joined
·
9 Posts
visit a local machine shop or if you know a machinist they could custom fab something up for you
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,421 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Is this about what your looking for?
It has a 2" head with a 2.5" shank for your hitch on the truck. The holes on the head 0.75" that are spaced 1.25" apart center to center.


Reese offers this for 2.5":

The rest from Reese:
I have seen the top one but it is a bit large. Do think it would work and know of another model that should. The issue here is will my head for the trunnion bars fit on it.

The second one is a Reese. It seems fine and I have see it advertised. Only thing is Reese specifically states you cannot use it with the clips I have to use to keep the head straight up and down. Thinking the reason is the center is hollow.

Do have a line on a smaller Curt that might work. Think Amazon has a return policy if it does not work and I may explore that. Appreciate the help and ideas.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,421 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Sell the entire hitch and buy new.
I am cheap. Right now I have multiple sets of bars at different height and multiple trailer clips to use with this style of hitch. Just hung up on what kind of shank will work with my old head style. Sure I could spend major dollars to achieve a greater drop of maybe an inch or so. Just not worth it for me.
 

·
Super Moderator
2015 Outdoorsman EcoD CC w/6.4' 4X4
Joined
·
4,349 Posts
I have seen the top one but it is a bit large. Do think it would work and know of another model that should. The issue here is will my head for the trunnion bars fit on it.
Going off of your picture with the caliper measurement, that Curt is about 2.5" longer when compared using the center of the receiver pin on both(looks like you measured from the bottom). A 2500 even 2WD probably is better than 2" taller than 1500.



Found a little shorter one on eTrailer:

The Curt one is about the same price:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,421 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Thinking all the shanks that are hollowed out will not work with those wedge plates I have to level the head. Going to try a solid Curt model like the above. Think that 2" width, even with a 2 1/2" shank, would work with the wedge plates.

Hope to find out soon. Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,291 Posts
El Cheapo idea here , one additional hole so the adjustable part can be moved down one additional position
and still have the angle adjustment of top bolt align , of course I would not drill multiple holes and turn part into a swiss cheese
and strenght of hitch would be lowered with holes closer together , but just 1 hole lower would not make it too weak .
------------------
BUT ,,, I wonder about the adjustment teeth of top bolts , obviously they were casted with
angle of the 2 holes being a certain distance apart , changing that distance will not allow the teeth
to fit well together ???? unless that big square spacer rotates , then all fine .
--the teeth would fit perfect in only one position if extra hole was used , and if you wanted to change
the angle you would need to go back to original hole and height to change position of angle designed of original
hole hinge feature..
maybe extra hole couple of thousand of an inch bigger , max 10/1000 .
..
85768
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,421 Posts
Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
El Cheapo idea here , one additional hole so the adjustable part can be moved down one additional position
and still have the angle adjustment of top bolt align , of course I would not drill multiple holes and turn part into a swiss cheese
and strenght of hitch would be lowered with holes closer together , but just 1 hole lower would not make it too weak .
------------------
BUT ,,, I wonder about the adjustment teeth of top bolts , obviously they were casted with
angle of the 2 holes being a certain distance apart , changing that distance will not allow the teeth
to fit well together ???? unless that big square spacer rotates , then all fine .
--the teeth would fit perfect in only one position if extra hole was used , and if you wanted to change
the angle you would need to go back to original hole and height to change position of angle designed of original
hole hinge feature..
maybe extra hole couple of thousand of an inch bigger , max 10/1000 .
.. View attachment 85768
Like and appreciate all ideas. Been on that topic but there is an issue. This shank is SOLID STEEL. I do not know the temper of that steel but am guessing that a 3/4" drill would have to be super-tough to drill a clean hole. My big press in the back garage would work but the exact centering and angle needed to line things up would be tricky to get it perfect.

This shank has hole spacings about .9", not the usual 1.25" That would mean I would need a lower hole so low I do not think there is any more metal to add another hole. Not in that shadow you drew your example but on the other side - below where it is now. No "meat" left to do that. If I just drilled out the head where you show that would put the two holes in the head .9" closer instead of the typical 3 3/4". If I could do that drilling just wondering if there would be a strength issue for twisting torque during operation. Worth thinking more on that issue.

You can see from the old outline of the head that this whole thing was reversed on the Ecodiesel and maybe on the old Cummins and Duramax. This new 2500 is way high off the ground compared to previous models. Do not know the exact numbers. Do know the reality that in this position, as low as I can make it, really need to drop another inch to better level my toy hauler.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,291 Posts
looking at image of your hitch , even with one more hole , the ball will still be close to the level of the truck's hitch .
seems to be a hitch made to raise the ball , turning your hitch 180 degrees , not made to lower the ball .
compared to a new hitch that would bring it a lot further down .
..
hate to spend money , but sometimes there are no magical ways to get the desired result ...
..
85769
85770
85771
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,421 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
GREAT OBSERVATION. You must have x-ray eyes.
I don't know how I missed this opportunity for so long.... but

Are you saying yours doesn't hang low enough? ?
Getting the drop on the hitch is not all of the issue. Getting the drop with the ability to use the trunnion bar system ( not so much weight but stability) is the issue. Many of the drop bar shanks shown will work but few to none work with the distribution bar system I already have. I have a good drop system for my 2" ball. Guessing I could convert it to the 2 5/16th" ball but the equalizer system would not fit.

I actually do want my balls to hang lower.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,291 Posts
so ideally , you would fit the circled bracket onto another L shape hitch portion pointing down ,
LUCKILY , that L shape part of your hitch would be the less complicated part for a welder-guy to fab ,
you already have the complicated part with the extra trunnion hooh-up ,
and it would keep its strenght with original distance between 2 holes ,
just need another '' L '' shaped hitch to add
to your tow tools , fabricated by a welder or machine shop that can drill holes with precision to accomodate your device.
could be built starting with that 2 1/2 inch size square tube you desire.
little welding and grinder , paint , make it '' bomb proof '' , super strong , for less $$$ than a complete new hitch .
85772
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top