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You are fortunate that it happened in your driveway and that you saw the piece.
It's a bit more common for low priced aftermarket pads to have poor bonding between the friction pad and the backing plate.
Unusual for OEM pads. Looks like salt/corrosion compromised the bond. A proper bond would prevent that in the first place.
It should be easy to replace (all 4 for rear axle) and go on your way.
Something for all of us to watch out for.
Thanks for posting.
 

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Driving out of garage brake pedal goes to floor. Eventually after pumping it a few times comes to a stop. Put it in park go back in garage and find this on floor. After some investigation it was rear drivers (inner) that fell off. 65k kms. 2016. Looks like manufacturing defect. The friction pads should not fall off!!
Have had that happen twice on Escorts.--back in '87 and about ''03. They can "rust" off. Good thing is when they fall off in the yard vice when going down the road!
 

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Have to say this is the first time I have ever heard of pads just coming off of the mounting plates! I have done thousands of brake jobs and never seen the friction pad fall off. If it were me I would have taken lots of pics and sent them to the https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/
 

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When I did my fronts and rears at approximately 150,000 kms, the backing plate fell out when I removed the back passenger caliper. Inner pad. Never thought too much of it, but this is definitely a trend.
 

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Have to say this is the first time I have ever heard of pads just coming off of the mounting plates! I have done thousands of brake jobs and never seen the friction pad fall off. If it were me I would have taken lots of pics and sent them to the https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/
Yup, mine was the rear drivers side inner, 125000 km A few days ago, my pedal went to the floor on a brake application. I believe that’s when it came off.
 

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I just had same rear driver side friction pad fall off as I was repositioning the truck in the driveway. Found the pad in the driveway looks to have quite a bit of life left in it but was rusty. Factory pads @ 60,000 miles. Almost hit the neighbors car when the brake pedal went to the floor!
 

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Same thing happened to me yesterday. 2016 Limited with 64k. Backed out of garage and pedal went to the floor and heard a noise. Pumped the pedal a second time and went to the floor again but slowed enough to almost stop and throw it in park. Almost backed into a tree. After the fluid made up the space difference the brakes were fine. Got home from work and the friction pad was laying in the driveway. Drivers side inner pad. If I was on the highway and had to panic stop, this would have been a whole different outcome with the pedal going to the floor. SCARY! Dealer can't get me in until almost two weeks. Told them to order a new rotor right away cause their gonna need it. This is a serious safety issue.
 

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The garage I took it to mentioned my rear calipers weren't greased or releasing properly which left them dragging on the rotor and when parked. The rust that formed may have been enough to tear the friction pad from the backing plate. My front brakes looked fine, plenty of lube and less wear on the pads, pads are factory at 60k. As a side note my mpg has went up around 2-3 mpg, at first I thought the pumps were switching back from winter blend fuel but this will be my 3 summer with the truck and have never averaged the 25mpg that my EVIC shows now so this could have been dragging for a while. 2015 Limited.
 

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So the moral of all of this ... replace your brake pads if they are factory and are starting to look like crap. Report it to the NTSB or whomever is the agency and they will look into it. Could be a bad set of brake pads (cheap). Cheap is FCA's real name and they are good at cutting every corner to make 2 dollars more.

For all of those with lots of miles on your brakes, either check them or have a mechanic check them. I mean really check them. Pull the tire and the caliper slide off. Make sure the pins move freely. Make sure the pads are not stuck in place by rust. Rust on the ears of the pad backing plate will cause them ti stick in the caliper slide resulting in extra drag between the pads and rotors after you release the brake peddle. Check the pads to make sure there is no rust between the pads and the backing plate they are mounted to. Check the wear on the rotor and the pads. Look especially on the inside of the rotor. For me this is where the rust gets the worst and chews up the pads. I just replaced the front brakes on our 2014 Dodge Durango with 55k miles on it. The front pads still had over 25% of their thickness but they went in the garbage. Why? Because of indications of rust starting between the pad and backing plate and the interior side of the rotor was rusting from the outer diameter in to the middle and was chewing up the pad. I could not see it from just looking at the rotor without pulling the tire and the caliper bracket. Besides, they were 5 years old. Time to replace them, straight up.

If you see rust on any of the critical parts, replace them.

You HAVE to pull at least the tire off to make this inspection. It is best to pull the caliper slide as well.

As a note, brakes are lasting a lot longer than when I was in my 20s. I was replacing pads every 20k miles back then. You have to do a proper inspection. If you live in a state with safety inspection, do you trust your mechanic? Does he/she actually pull the tire and caliper to check for lubrication, excessive rust, rusk jacking? If they don't then politely ask them to do so.
 

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I filed a claim with the NHTSA today. Finally got the truck in to get the brakes repaired only to learn that FCA will not cover anything brake related, even though my pads still had 60% material remaining and it was clearly a manufacturing defect. So now I have to pay for the rotor that it destroyed as well. We'll see about that. I would encourage others to file a claim as well. If I was on the highway and had to panic stop and this occurred, there would have been a serious crash and possibly a death, or more. Hope it doesn't happen to anybody. It seems most posters were moving in reverse when it happened. Maybe they can't fall off when moving forward...which would be a good thing. I'm sure one of the experts will chime in. I've never had my calipers off to verify.
 

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So the moral of all of this ... replace your brake pads if they are factory and are starting to look like crap. Report it to the NTSB or whomever is the agency and they will look into it. Could be a bad set of brake pads (cheap). Cheap is FCA's real name and they are good at cutting every corner to make 2 dollars more.

For all of those with lots of miles on your brakes, either check them or have a mechanic check them. I mean really check them. Pull the tire and the caliper slide off. Make sure the pins move freely. Make sure the pads are not stuck in place by rust. Rust on the ears of the pad backing plate will cause them ti stick in the caliper slide resulting in extra drag between the pads and rotors after you release the brake peddle. Check the pads to make sure there is no rust between the pads and the backing plate they are mounted to. Check the wear on the rotor and the pads. Look especially on the inside of the rotor. For me this is where the rust gets the worst and chews up the pads. I just replaced the front brakes on our 2014 Dodge Durango with 55k miles on it. The front pads still had over 25% of their thickness but they went in the garbage. Why? Because of indications of rust starting between the pad and backing plate and the interior side of the rotor was rusting from the outer diameter in to the middle and was chewing up the pad. I could not see it from just looking at the rotor without pulling the tire and the caliper bracket. Besides, they were 5 years old. Time to replace them, straight up.

If you see rust on any of the critical parts, replace them.

You HAVE to pull at least the tire off to make this inspection. It is best to pull the caliper slide as well.

As a note, brakes are lasting a lot longer than when I was in my 20s. I was replacing pads every 20k miles back then. You have to do a proper inspection. If you live in a state with safety inspection, do you trust your mechanic? Does he/she actually pull the tire and caliper to check for lubrication, excessive rust, rusk jacking? If they don't then politely ask them to do so.

Rust was not a factor in my pad separating from the backing plate. Truck was just over a year old and had only seen one winter. Faulty pad was the cause. I was out of warranty due to kms I had on the truck.
 
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