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Removing the fuel pump cover to access the rail. The finger is pointing to where the rail can be repositioned with no real force being applied. It is definitely worth removing the fuel rail clamp/support on top of the engine as it reduces the stress on the rail considerably.
 

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Please note that the photos were taken on reassembly. Some aspects of the timeline may not make sense.

It took us 4 hours, but both myself and my leading hand friend are very particular (slow) workers. We also had a bit of drama getting the system to fill, but I think the bad noises which kept stopping us were from me having immersed the tensioner mechanism in water to clean it. Either that or the pump was indeed cavitating. We just kept shutting down and restarting... probably wasted almost an hour.

A good range of sockets is essential. Access is tricky and the right depth of socket (or socket plus short extension) is important to prevent struggle. You definitely don't want to slip off the tensioner while you are leaning on it!

The lower right (facing) bolt goes right through the water pump and its mounting surface, into the valley. As the thread is exposed back there, it's a real candidate for trouble if you live in the rust belt. If you think it might be a problem, maybe douse the area several times with penetrant to assist. I'd also undo it first.

The genuine part (Mopar = Saleri) comes with the seal kit installed. You do not need to buy it.

Check out the water pump price in the UK!
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/312086575981
 

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Barboots , first Thanks for the great images , :)
you seem to have a lot of room to take the pictures , what did you remove to make room up front ?
degas bottle ?
shroud ?
Rad?
 

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Barboots , first Thanks for the great images , :)
you seem to have a lot of room to take the pictures , what did you remove to make room up front ?
None of the items suggested Kazimodo. In fact nothing additional removed, aside from what was directly required. In the 4-shot sequence, the first 3 are taken working forward to the radiator... the 3rd I had the phone against the fan with no more reach available. So the 4th was a sneaky one with the phone camera inverted to shoot "just" over the top of the radiator tank.

I can't imagine that the Grand Cherokee engine bay offers the Eco more space, but I could be mistaken? However I'll instead sleep well tonight thinking it was my impressive skills with the S8+
 

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Thanks Barboots , on the Ram , we have this massive wall in front of us , shoulder height ,
then back down 1 foot to work on the pump , contorsionist skills needed , or 2 feet high scaffolding around the front of the truck .
Nice work , not only on the photos , compliments on the tech part as well .
..
09:40 AM here , so probably late into the night for you , a good day's work.
 

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I need to replace my water pump. What's everyone's opinion of Dealership parts vs Rock Auto. My local dealer wants $714 for the pump, $4.60 for the O-ring, and $32.70 for a new o-ring kit. Mopar parts online is $487 for the pump and Rock auto is $477. I guess Mopar parts on line is a good price.

Take care,
Jeff
 

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Just got an estimate from dealer to replace water pump and inlet tube.

Parts: pump $784 tube $412 labor $1320 Total $3132.27. HA HA HA

Have 111,000 miles on it. 2014 Ecodiesel.

Had a 100,000 mile warranty. Now just screwed by FCA. Will not but another FCA vehicle. Wife and I bought Chrysler from 1989 to date.
 

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Just got an estimate from dealer to replace water pump and inlet tube.

Parts: pump $784 tube $412 labor $1320 Total $3132.27. HA HA HA

Have 111,000 miles on it. 2014 Ecodiesel.

Had a 100,000 mile warranty. Now just screwed by FCA. Will not but another FCA vehicle. Wife and I bought Chrysler from 1989 to date.
Loyalty to a particular brand does not equate to a discount. If you quit buying things because they need repairs, pretty soon you'll be driving nothing but black cadillacs. My last GM was a similar disaster, fixed it, sold it, and moved on. C'est la vie.
 

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The more crud like this I see the more and more I am convinced that in 2016 I purchased my last new vehicle.
 

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I just bought a pump and gasket kit from Mopar Parts Online. The pump has the gaskets on it. The gasket kit is just another set of the same gaskets. I was hoping the gasket kit included the orings for the "slip fit" locations. I haven't seen any O-rings listed for the "slip fit". Does anyone know if in the drawing above part #681572AA is the o-ring needed and if the o-rings are the same size?

Thanks for the help,
Jeff
 

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Changed the water pump today

Just got an estimate from dealer to replace water pump and inlet tube.

Parts: pump $784 tube $412 labor $1320 Total $3132.27. HA HA HA

Have 111,000 miles on it. 2014 Ecodiesel.

Had a 100,000 mile warranty. Now just screwed by FCA. Will not but another FCA vehicle. Wife and I bought Chrysler from 1989 to date.
Don't change the truck, change the dealer. Not offering you a parts discount is one thing. Charging you $1300 for labour is another. That job should be done in 3-4 hours.
 

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The tribe has spoken....We have numerous water pump failures..... Curious you folks posting in this thread that have had water pump failures did you have a EGR failure before or after a water pump replaced? It’s been reported a low coolant issue because of a leaking EGR starves the water pump of coolant which also is the lubricant for the water pump..
This! Can you share more examples of this EGR related water pump failure? Preferably something from a dealership? My JGC is at the dealer right now. EGR cooler failed, sent coolant into exhaust system, cracked the DPF filter, and damaged the SCR catalyst. All being replaced under the FCA Dieselgate settlement emissions warranty. But then they called and said there’s a puddle of coolant under the vehicle and they can’t trace it to any of the work that they’ve done. said the water pump isn’t covered under emissions warranty and I would need to pay for replacement. I pushed back that it wasn’t leaking before they touched it, and it’s been in their care for 3 WEEKS doing who knows what with it.

They claim when they flushed the radiator and did a pressure test it may have unearthed an issue with the water pump that was there but not present before I brought it in. I think that’s super weak.

but if I can point blame at the EGR cooler failure then I feel the emissions warranty should cover the water pump replacement.

2014 JGC Limited, eco diesel 4x2, 125,000 miles
 

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My water pump has been dripping/seeping for the better part of a year. I recently got an estimate to fix it from the dealer.
$1,800. I said that was too much I'd just keep adding water. They then quoted me $1,200. Not sure if I'll have them do it or do it myself.
I do appreciate the pictures and mini how-to, Barboots.
 

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This! Can you share more examples of this EGR related water pump failure? Preferably something from a dealership? My JGC is at the dealer right now. EGR cooler failed, sent coolant into exhaust system, cracked the DPF filter, and damaged the “EGR catalyst“. All being replaced under the FCA Dieselgate settlement warranty. But then they called and said there’s a puddle of coolant under the vehicle and they can’t trace it to any of the work that they’ve done. said the water pump isn’t covered under emissions warranty and I would need to pay for replacement. I pushed back that it wasn’t leaking before they touched it, and it’s been in their care for 3 WEEKS doing who knows what with it.

They claim when they flushed the radiator and did a pressure test it may have unearthed an issue with the water pump that was there but not present before I brought it in. I think that’s super weak.

but if I can point blame at the EGR cooler failure then I feel the emissions warranty should cover the water pump replacement.

2014 JGC Limited, eco diesel 4x2, 125,000 miles
Dealer called today and said the vehicle doesn’t appear to be leaking anymore and that it’s ready for me to come pick up. They think that when they did the coolant flush and pressure test it must have overloaded the seals on my “old” water pump (2014, 125k miles). Basically they’re wanting to leave it at “it’s not currently leaking, but we told you it needs a new water pump”.

I’m thinking I should file a FCA customer care case with my concerns that the EGR Cooler failure caused the water pump leak so that it’s documented. The service record clearly states that the vehicle was low on coolant when brought in. I know that higher mileage vehicles can be a house of cards once you start swapping out parts, but exactly how irrefutable does it have to be that a warrantable failure caused other issues?

Also, minor thing they charged me for the coolant system flush. Said their standard procedure after replacing a failed EGR Cooler was to just top off the radiator and not flush it, but highly recommended flushing it. I agreed. Seems to me flushing would be standard practice.
 
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