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First off let me say I'm not mechanically inclined, but I have learned a lot from this site and it's great members - THANKS! My current comfort level with the truck is to do my own oil changes. I have a 2015 and it's at about 32,000 KMS - hasn't been to the shop once ;)

There is a scheduled maintenance at 32,000KMS that involves draining the fuel filter, as well as some other tasks such as checking suspension components, tie rods, boot seals, axle surfaces, brake linings, etc. I don't know enough to do those tasks and figured it was a good time to have some of those things checked by the dealer. I even went to a dealer about 1 hour drive away from me as the local one leaves much to be desired. I've been getting the run around from them though and even though they are a bigger shop with a certified diesel tech, I question their skills after they told me it would take 1-2 hours for this service and they'd have to replace both fuel filters, which were about $100 each + labour. :mad: A couple of questions for those that know this truck better than I do:

We only have 1 fuel filter right?

After doing a bit more reading on this, it looks like I could probably drain the fuel filter in my driveway....just unscrew that little yellow screw and let a couple of ounces out? How will I know if it's water or diesel coming out?

I did see one post from 97hmcs saying to turn the ignition switch to 'on' position...I assume that's the 'accessories on', not motor running?

The post from 97hmcs goes on to talk about priming the fuel engine...involves pressing the ignition switch twice...I have a turn key, not button....anyone know the correct procedure for this? I would assume turning the key to run twice would start the engine.

Has anyone got the billet aluminum oil filter wrench and drain plug from genos garage? https://www.genosgarage.com/product/ecodiesel-fuel-filter-removal-tool/tools
If so, is it really necessary? How do you go about getting that little yellow drain plug out? From what I've read it's held in there by some kind of backing pin...just yank, or wait until I do the fuel filter change at 48,000KMS and pull it out then?

Another thing for the 32,000kms service said to Replace the 'air conditioning filter' - is that the cabin air filter? I didn't think we had one of those.

So...let's hear what you guys have been charged at the dealer for this type of service? I'm considering ordering some fuel filters, the tool and the drain plug....although I do agree with the old adage 'if you want something done right, do it yourself", I am a bit worried about missing all the checks for suspension, tie rods, axle, brakes, etc.

Sorry for the 20 questions, as I said I have basically zero experience with engine/vehicle maintenance, but am eager to learn!

Thanks again for all the help guys! This site is awesome
 

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Only one fuel filter, the cummins has 2.

In my opinion the genos garage items are if you think they are cool or if you break your drain valve because they are cheaper than factory replacement, but you surely don't need them.

Our trucks didn't come with cabin air filters installed so I don't get why we need to change them... others opinions may vary.

In my opinion the axle tie rod suspension inspection etc. is a joke. If something is wrong with it you will know. I currently do the maintenance on 4 vehicles north of 200k miles and still don't do those inspections if something is wrong you will notice in your driving.
 

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Have not changed my fuel filter yet, but I believe with the key model (like mine) you can just click the key over to the wait to start and the pump will kick on and prime the system.
 

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Yes only one fuel filter as mentioned above.

Yes, just use a phillips to unscrew the yellow drain screw, it does not fully come out as it has a retainer. Once loose, poke it up and down a few times to get out a little more fuel. Make sure to screw it back tight before swapping the filter. I did not use any special wrench. I was able to get a pair of channel locks big enough to grab the little tabs on the bottom cup of the fuel fitler housing to crack it loose. There are quite a few videos on it. My mistake was that I was trying to turn the whole assembly, not realize it was just the lower portion/cup with the tabs that breaks loose. I used a gallon ziploc over it was loosening to collect all the leftover fuel. the drain plug does not get out much. Then you just swap in the new filter and make sure it snaps in, replace and the oring, and seal the oring by wiping some fuel on it. Tighten it back up. I cracked one of the tabs off when I tightened it back up. Hardest part is accessing the fuel filter, it is above the axle so a bit awkward to work with.

In regards to the key on but not running, you turn the key two "clicks" (to the ON position but not cranking) to prime the new fuel filter. You will hear it.

For fun I asked the dealer what they would charge to do the fuel filter as I already had it in the shop for oil change. I was curious if maybe it wouldn't be worth my time. They wanted a hefty $375 for parts and labor. No thanks.

I am out of oil change packages so gearing up to do the oil changes myself in about a month or two.
 

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The Geno's tool also comes with a brass plug that you can replace your yellow thingie with. It will provide a more positive emptying experience. First time, I "thought" the filter was fully drained, but it wasn't. Hence, I made a mess. So be sure to jiggle that sucker a few times to be sure. Also, loosen the canister a little first. Just enough to let some air in so that it can drain more easily.

I already have the Geno's tool, so this was a bit late. But one of our newer sponsors is offering this:
The fuel filter on the Ram EcoDiesel is bolted to a frame rail underneath the vehicle. The filter itself is enclosed in a canister with a spin-off bottom, but the bottom cannot take a normal hex wrench or strap type as it is round with 4 tangs around the outside.

The IDParts Ram EcoDiesel Fuel Filter Wrench is a cast aluminum wrench specifically made to remove the spin off cap of the fuel filter canister.

View attachment 33978

Our normal price is just $19.95, but forum members can use the coupon "RamForum" to knock $10 off with any order over $50!
 

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Opinions do vary, after watching this, I'll make the effort to install mine as soon as I can get the truck in the garage at work.
 

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After it does the "tinkle"...unscrew and put a new one in. Prime by turning on key and waiting a bit for the priming sound to end.
 
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just did by myself 3 days ago on 33 000km , oil and fuel filter change , price in Toronto's dealership 32$ and 38$ plus HST

1. loose yellow screw
2. drain around 200 grams of fuel
3. remove bottom part of plastic filter
4. change the rubber seal (comes with filter )
5. install new filter
6. put everything back
7. yellow screw tight up
8. ignition on ( don't push brake pedal)

pump will be working around 20 seconds
turn off ignition and turn on again after half minute , pump will start pumping again

go under the truck and check for leaks if not go back to cabin

repeat ignition without break pedal another 4 times , why 6 times on and off ? Just to be on the safe side , more time you do less chances to get air in the common rail system .



Good Luck !!!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
thanks a bunch fellas! This forum is excellent! What's the benefit of the brass drain plug from Genos? From what I've seen many guys are able to break the canister free by hand or using a wrench, so I don't know if I need that geno's filter wrench.
 

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thanks a bunch fellas! This forum is excellent! What's the benefit of the brass drain plug from Genos? From what I've seen many guys are able to break the canister free by hand or using a wrench, so I don't know if I need that geno's filter wrench.
Supposed benefit is what they state on the website, more fuel can be removed prior to unscrewing the housing, vs the pinned stock plastic one:

On the Ram 1500 EcoDiesel truck, removal of the fuel filter is not so easy. It is hidden underneath the bed of the truck, about mid-way back and just to the left-of-center.

When opened, the tiny yellow drain valve doesn't drain much fuel. You'll typically only get about two ounces of fuel to drain which is not enough to prevent a fuel bath when the fuel filter canister is removed.

You can use a strap wrench to remove the fuel filter bowl, but expect the aforementioned fuel bath. With the fuel filter drain plug Geno's has made the whole process easier and far less messy.

The drain valve is installed after the first filter removal and drains all of the fuel so you won't have fuel running down your arm when you take the canister down.
 

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Perks of the brass drain screw, you can take it all the way out for a quicker drain, it is sturdier which might be good or bad. Good it wont break or strip out, but bad if you strip out the filter housing.

For a filter that is serviced every 30K miles or 10 times over 300,000 miles or 5 times over 150,000 miles ill leave the plastic one in there till it breaks.
 

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I think the biggest benefit is that people don't realize they need to loosen the yellow drain screw and push it to get the fuel out. With the brass one you completely remove it.

For the few times you need to change the filter the cost seems kinda high, but Geno's needs to make a living to.
:)
 

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Just changed mine for the first time today and came up with a 3rd solution. Like the genios instructions I used a pair of end dykes to cut off the stopper on the yellow plug. Now my stock plug will drop out


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Looks like ya all had success, I was tempted to try and replace the filter, I have 15,300 miles, I did not think I could fit under the truck in the drive way, So I called the dealer and was told I had two filters and it would be $80 for each filter plus a shop fee of $55 . no way was I going to pay that. I had the dog at the park for a run this morning, and I was a mile away from the dealer, so I stopped at the dealership, they looked my vin up, and told me I only needed one filter, at $35 and the shop fee of $55 plus they would inspect the whole truck plus I got a $9.03 senior discount. I did ask the girl who quoted me on the phone with them blown up prices why she did not quote me right, she did not have an answer for me but put the blame on some one she asked she says. I am sure glad I made the trip in to the dealer and have someone else give me the quote and they took me right in no waiting. The other girl wanted to give me a appointment 7 days out.
IMG_1232.JPG
 

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Looks like ya all had success, I was tempted to try and replace the filter, I have 15,300 miles, I did not think I could fit under the truck in the drive way, So I called the dealer and was told I had two filters and it would be $80 for each filter plus a shop fee of $55 . no way was I going to pay that. I had the dog at the park for a run this morning, and I was a mile away from the dealer, so I stopped at the dealership, they looked my vin up, and told me I only needed one filter, at $35 and the shop fee of $55 plus they would inspect the whole truck plus I got a $9.03 senior discount. I did ask the girl who quoted me on the phone with them blown up prices why she did not quote me right, she did not have an answer for me but put the blame on some one she asked she says. I am sure glad I made the trip in to the dealer and have someone else give me the quote and they took me right in no waiting. The other girl wanted to give me a appointment 7 days out.
View attachment 39825
You were just lucky. :)
 

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Thought I would add to this thread as I just changed my fuel filter for the first time Saturday. Couldn't find the one gallon bucket I was planning on using so after looking around the house found this Tide pods container which sits on top of the driveshaft and leaves room above to get your hand up there to wiggle the drain plug after you loosen it and have broke the lower housing loose. You can also see through it so it doesn't block your vision. Used the Geno's wrench and replaced the stupid yellow plug which should come out a little further so the filter housing would drain completely without playing with it. Best part not one drop spilled on the driveway!!

image.jpeg
 

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Since we're talking fuel filters, make sure you install it into the filter housing (press up until it clicks or seats) then put the cap on and tighten. This ensures the seals are seated properly, keeping contaminants from bypassing the filter through bent seals.

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