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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Installed the lights over a few hours this afternoon. Here's some info.

Tools:
T-50 Torx for seatbelt
10mm socket for pillar covers
8mm and T-20 Torx for visors
Automatic punch
Drill, 3/32 pilot bit, 1/4 bit for light mounting screws, 7/8 step bit for center hole for light socket
Painters tape for mounting template
Dielectric grease
Wire splice
Zip ties
Wire cutter

Some dimensions that are modeled after 2014 Ram 2500 with manufacturer installed lights:
Outside light edge to windshield glass about 5 9/16"
2nd light in to glass about 3 1/2"
Outside to first edge of rubber trim on roof about 3 3/8"
Any closer to the windshield and your center socket hole gets close to the frame of the roof

Remove the A and B pillar covers. The hinge of the bolt covers were on opposite sides from side to side. Keep in mind when trying to pop them off.
Drivers side A pillar
20140419_111639.jpg

Passenger side B pillar
20140419_113720.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Remove seat belt to get B pillar off
20140419_115400.jpg

The top and bottom covers on the B pillar need to pop off.
20140419_115722.jpg

The headliner was still connected in the rear of the crew cab second row. This still allowed it to be dropped far enough to access the underside of the roof.
20140419_121024.jpg

Tape on the template
20140419_131504.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Center punch the holes
20140419_135907.jpg

Drill pilot holes
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Drill the 1/4" and 7/8" holes
20140419_142900.jpg

From the center punch and drilling, the roof dented around the holes. It doesn't appear this affects anything because its hidden under the light.
20140419_143100.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Wire lights and add screw mounts
20140419_150723.jpg
20140419_155636.jpg

Mounted lights
20140419_161236.jpg

For 2013+, the green positive wire gets spliced into a wire under the dash behind the e-brake. The wire is in the the top left plug on the white panel. I think there's about 7 plugs in this panel in total. All will need to be unplugged, along with a center christmas tree mount connected to the wire loom, so that you can pull down the plugs to a place where you can work on them. Once unplugged it will need to be removed from its clip housing to be able to access the wire.
20140419_171954.jpg

Splice into this White/Brown wire
20140419_172049_arrow.jpg
 

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Thanks BWCAW. Looks great, must be scary drilling into a brand new truck


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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No guts, no glory! Been thinking about these lights myself. Did you paint the inside edge of the bare sheet metal after drilling the holes? Did you apply a thin film of silicon or some other type of sealer between the seal/gasket of the lights and the painted roof? Or do you think the factory seal/gaskets are adequate on their own to keeping water out?
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Prepping the holes is one place that I could have improved and still plan after I take the lights off to inspect for condensation and waterproofness and purchase a rust inhibitor. The instruction sheet called for rust inhibitor with a specific Mopar part number. Doing a better job deburring would have been good too but it would probably mean more paint on the underside would be removed. At least the sharp underside edge doesnt touch wire and there's minimal contact if any to the bulb socket. So for the time being I just applied liquid electric tape to the bare metal edge. The instructions did not call for silicon on the gasket. I think the rubber gasket with two sealing edges is meant to be sufficient. If you add silicon you'd probably have issues during bulb replacement because the lens fits into the gasket in a way that you need it off the vehicle to attatch onto the lens. It'll make sense if you get one of these in your hands.

Also don't over tighten the mounting screws. And drill fast to make a clean cut and to prevent metal warping and left over metal at the end of the cut. Would be nice if someone finds a way to reduce denting around the holes.
 

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Sharper bits, and less pressure will keep the dents away. Let the bits do the work, if that still doesn't work then use a steeper step bit or drill with standard bits and work your way up.
 

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Hi a automatic center punch like we use to break windows in the fire department would maybe prevent the denting .
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I personally perfer the stock look. Though I wish they were LED. The only thing I would research is if those other lights will fit properly for sure. The description said "fits all trucks." If I have a hole in my roof I at least like knowing its covered by a part engineered for the truck lines.
 
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Add me to the "prefers mopar look" club. That and I can't see a need for reverse lights on the front of the cab (I know they are facing backwards)

I'm also having mopar units installed prior to delivery by my dealer as I want that warranty on the holes in my roof.I'll likely put led bulbs after delivery.
 

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Add me to the "prefers mopar look" club. That and I can't see a need for reverse lights on the front of the cab (I know they are facing backwards)

I'm also having mopar units installed prior to delivery by my dealer as I want that warranty on the holes in my roof.I'll likely put led bulbs after delivery.
What is the dealer charging you for this install if you don't mind me asking?
 
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