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Cranks, Sputters, No Start

4834 Views 87 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  jhauler55
Truck: 2015 Tradesmen, 4x4, 133k miles on the O. AEM stock tune, no W58 completed as of yet. (wish i did)
Problem: Cranks, no start
Symptoms: Truck started, drove 50 feet and than stalled with the ole TPS fault on the dash HMI. No start after.

Completed items: Battery is on charger when I troubleshoot. Fuel Filter changed when problem ocured. Always on time with PM schedule. Shell Rot. 5/40 used. Mobile 5w40 was used during the Rotella shortage of 2021. NO codes for anything relating to no start. I have my typical dirty intake swirl valve codes, along with a p0128 code that I cannot fix even tho T-stat is new. 5 gallons of new fuel added to tank.

Had my ED towed to my house a day ago since it would crank but no start. It sounds like its about to take off and fire, but never does. So its not just a crank, no start. Its a crank, almost start, no start.

I will post the AlphaOBD report, but keep in mind this was preformed with a non running engine that was only cranking. I noticed on one report, it claimed I had water in the fuel. This is why I added new fuel. Reports after claim no water. Never had any kind of light and the ECM (in alphaOBD) claims the truck has driven 0km lifetime with a water warning. So, not sure why thats there. I also noticed an alternator fault on the report. Never had any voltage or charging issues so not sure what to think here. Crank signal according to AlphaOBD is not dropping and is recognized. Fuel rail says its getting pressure on A-OBD and the lift pump turns on (going by ear) for 30 seconds, primes, and shuts off.

My gut tells me its the reluctor magnet. My heart wants it to be the alternator. Could the alternator issue of been masked by a battery that was strong enough to run all the glow plugs/injectors/pumps. I am fully prepared to drop this transmission and change the part in my cold wet driveway if thats what it will take. But I dont have the time or money to be a part changing monkey. I need a surgical diagnosis before my mitts get dirty. Single father with 3 children, full custody, and this is our only vehicle. Its my bread and butter and I need it NOW!

In the meantime, Im dropping 400 dollars a week on a rental car and skipping important bills along the way. My only option really...

I have a video of the truck cranking and sputtering, and I can provide any A-OBD reports needed. Attached is a report I pulled while I was cranking away hoping for a miracle.

My next step, i guess, is to remove the starter and use a bore scope to maybe try and see the tone ring. At least that will give me a solid path forward.

Any help is appreciated.

PS: The "alternator" fault... Is it faulted because its not being run/excited?

Vehicle Line: DS - RAM 1500
Model Year: 2015
Body Style: 4-Door Pickup
Country Code: USA
Assembly Plant Data:
Normalised (Absolute) accelerator pedal position 1 for OBD tester: 0.00 %
Normalised (Absolute) accelerator pedal position 2 for OBD tester: 0.00 %
Engine speed: 0.00 rpm
Boost Pressure: 963.00 hPa
Raw value of Terminal 50 from hardware: Off
AC Fan Request: Off
Air conditioner compressor request: On
Raw signal from the digital gearbox neutral position sensor: On
Clutch switch: Off
Clutch Interlock Switch: Off
Redundant Brake Switch Status: On
Main Brake Status: On
Air mass per cylinder: 0.00 mg/hub
Vehicle speed: 2.56 km/h
Cruise control status: Not defined
4WD Switch state: Low Range
Cruise control: Standard Cruise Control
5 Button Cruise Control: No
Select Speed Control: No
Active Grille Shutter Equipped: No
Electric Thermostat Heater Equipped: No
Vacuum Pump: Yes
Air Condition: Fixed Displacement
Active Noise Cancellation: No
EGR bypass position sensor: No
Electric Coolant Valve Equipped: Yes
Stop&Start: No
DEF (urea) system: Yes
A580 Variant Equipped: No
PWM Fan: Yes
Low/High Fans: No
4 pin MAF: No
8 pin MAF: Yes
Swirl Position Sensors: Yes
Oil Vapour Pressure Sensor: Yes
EGR Out Temp Sensor: Yes
CAC In Temp Sensor: Yes
Status of Transmission type: Automatic
Lambda/Particulate filter presence: Not defined
PTC Equipped: 3 PTC heater relays, 3 heaters
Gear Shift Indicator: No
ADJ Starting Torque: 0.00 Nm
ADJ Idle Speed: 0.00 rpm
ADJ Tire circumference: 4123.20 m
MIL: Off
Engine condition status:
Regeneration Status: No
Boost control status: Disabled
EGR Control Status: Disabled
EGR cooler bypass status: Off
LSU signal is valid: Yes
Glow plugs activated: No
Water In Fuel: Not present
Main Brake Status: Pressed
Redundant Brake Switch Status: Pressed
Clutch pedal: Pressed
Fan powerstage 1st command: Not activated
Fan powerstage 2nd command: Not activated
AC requested: Not requested
AC compressor switched ON: Yes
Status of injection:
Main injection: Not present
Pilot injection 1: Not present
Pilot injection 2: Not present
Pilot injection 3: Not present
POST 1 injection status: Not active
POST 2 injection status: Not active
POST 3 injection status: Not active
POST 4 injection status: Not active
Starter Relay Status: Off
Air Condition Compressor Off: On
Crankcase Ventilation Heating: Off
Glow plugs lamp: Off
Glow plugs relay: Off
Pre-Supply Pump: Off
Fuel filter heater: Off
Fuel filter water level warning lamp: Off
Raw digital inputs & outputs:
Key status: On
Main Brake Status: Pressed
Redundant Brake Status: Pressed
Request To Switch On/Off The Main Relay: On
Control Signal for the Starter Relay: Off
Converted Analog inputs:
The Pressure at Turbine Upstream: 967.00 hPa
Sensed Value Of The Temperature At Particulate Filter Upstream: 10.06 Deg.C
Air temperature at HFM position: 14.56 Deg.C
Sensed value of environment air pressure: 970.00 hPa
Sensed battery voltage: 12440.00 mV
Sensed fuel temperature: 6.66 Deg.C
Charged Air Cooler downstream Pressure: 963.00 hPa
Sensed inlet air temperature: 5.96 Deg.C
Lambda value measured from LSU: 0.00
Air mass per cylinder: 0.00 mg/Hub
Engine oil temperature: 4.26 Deg.C
Sensed pressure downstream of the particle filter: -2.00 hPa
Maximum rail pressure during last 10 ms: 7.10 bar
Engine coolant temperature: 5.06 Deg.C
Sensed value of the temperature at Ttrbnus: 11.36 Deg.C
Temperature before OxiCat: 10.06 Deg.C
Sensed value of oil pressure: 25.00 hPa
Sensed value of actuator position without error handling: 4.99 %
Cruise control status: No Key Pressed
Accelerator pedal: potentiometer track 1: 0.00 %
Accelerator pedal: potentiometer track 2: 0.00 %
Crankcase differential pressure sensor signal: 0.03 hPa
Conditioner pressure: 3628.00 hPa
3 way Coolant valve actuator position sensor signal: 0.00 %
Temperature before Oxidation Catalyst: 8.66 Deg.C
Temperature before Particulate Filter: 9.86 Deg.C
Temperature before Turbine: 10.46 Deg.C
EGR rate into the engine: 0.00
EGR cooler downstream temperature: 5.36 Deg.C
Radiator out temperature sensor signal: -50.04 Deg.C
Charged air cooler Upstream temperature: 4.66 Deg.C
Nox concentration of Nox Sensor 1: -7.00 ppm
Nox concentration of Nox Sensor 2: -4.00 ppm
NOx emission downstream of secondary catalyst: 0.00 ppm
Offset corrected NOx signal from post NOx sensor: 0.00 ppm
Swirl valve actuator sensor position 1: 0.08 %
Swirl valve actuator sensor position 2: 36.16 %
Pressure downstream of air filter: 962.00 hPa
Relative humidity of fresh air: 51.18 %
Turbocharger position control: 84.08 %
SCR Urea Tank Temperature: 3.86 Deg.C
SCR Urea Level: 52.28 %
SCR Urea Level: 95.00 mm
Urea (Reductant) Pump Pressure: 0.00 hPa
Exhaust gas temperature Upstream SCR: 5.46 Deg.C
Raw analog inputs:
Raw Voltage Value of Particulate Filter Upstream Sensor: 811.20 mV
Raw ADC value of environment air pressure: 3831.60 mV
Raw ADC signal from environment temperature sensor: 0.00 mV
Raw ADC value of fuel temperature: 3910.00 mV
Raw value of voltage read from ADC for charged air cooler downstream pressure module: 1558.80 mV
Raw ADC value of downstream charged air temperature: 4388.20 mV
Raw voltage value lambda signal after subtraction of reference 1.5 Volt: -9.60 mV
Raw ADC value of oil temperature sensor: 4325.40 mV
Raw voltage from the ADC PFlt Differential Pressure sensor: 566.80 mV
Raw value of temperature at upstream of the oxidation catalyst: 806.40 mV
Raw voltage value of position sensor: 889.40 mV
Raw value of rail pressure: 513.00 mV
Raw ADC value of downstream engine coolant temperature sensor signal: 3416.20 mV
Turbine Upstream Temperature Sensor Voltage: 811.20 mV
Accelerator pedal: potentiometer track 1: 425.00 mV
Accelerator pedal: potentiometer track 2: 214.80 mV
Crankcase differential pressure sensor signal: 850.20 mV
Conditioner pressure: 522.80 mV
Temperature before Oxidation Catalyst: 806.40 mV
Temperature before Particulate Filter: 811.20 mV
Temperature before Turbine: 811.20 mV
EGR cooler downstream temperature: 796.60 mV
Radiator out temperature sensor signal: 4999.80 mV
Charged air cooler Upstream pressure: 4629.80 mV
Swirl valve actuator sensor position 1: 503.20 mV
Swirl valve actuator sensor position 2: 1871.60 mV
Pressure downstream of air filter: 3768.20 mV
Urea (Reductant) Pump Pressure: 0.00 mV
Exhaust gas temperature Upstream SCR: 801.40 mV
3 way Coolant valve actuator position sensor signal: 2805.20 mV
Status message for vehicle pedals:
Clutch pedal pressed: No
Accelerator pedal potentiometer 1 used: Yes
Accelerator pedal potentiometer 2 used: Yes
Accelerator pedal error condition: No
Brake Pressed: Yes
Redundant switch brake pedal pressed: Yes
Brake switch error condition: No
Throttle status:
Throttle open: No
Throttle in required position: Yes
Throttle valve in fault: No
Status message for pre-supply pump:
Pre supply pump Command On: No
Engine Crank: No
Fuel pump relay in fault: No
EGR cooler bypass status:
EGR in fault: No
Air flow sensor in fault: No
Status message for oil pressure switch:
Oil pressure switch: Off
Engine Running: No
Insufficient oil pressure with engine running: No
oil sensor in fault: No
Oil pressure lamp status: On
Boost control status:
Boost closed loop controller is active: No
Position controller enabled: No
Offset learning procedure already performed in this driving cycle: Yes
Gear engaged: 0
Enable Fuel Pump to Energize: On
LIN Values:
Alternator Load: 0.00 %
Alternator Load Response Ramping Time: 5.75 sec
Alternator Voltage Set Value: 0.00 mV
Engine speed: 768.00 rpm
Alternator Excitement Current: 0.00 mA
Alternator Status High Temp Fault: No
Alternator Status Mechanical Fault: Yes
Alternator Status Electrical Fault: Yes
Alternator Status Communication Fault: No
Alternator Status Timeout Fault: No
LIN output error state: No
Any Alternator Error Present: Yes
Alternator Parameters:
Current state of the LRT calculation-- engine speed is greater than threshold: No
Battery temperature: 10.06 Deg.C
Alternator Set point Voltage: 0.00 mV
Alternator load response time: 5.75 sec
Battery Voltage after Defect Detection and Handling: 12440.00 mV
Alternator Load: 0.00 %
Alternator Excitation Current: 0.00 mA
Km with 'Water in diesel' warning lamp 'ON': 0 km
Cruise control status: :
Cruise Control Speed: 0.00 km/h
Cruise Switch 1 State: No Key Pressed
Cruise Switch 2 State: No Key Pressed
Engage & Enable not Inhibited: No
Cruise Control is Off: Yes
Wheel Spin Detected: No
P/N SWITCH in P or N: Yes
Inhibit Software Declutch Detected: No
Vehicle speed Greater than High Limit: No
Vehicle speed Lower than Low Limit: Yes
Engine RPM Greater than High Limit: Yes
Vehicle Speed Less Than CC Minimum Set Speed: Yes
Clutch Interlock Switch Pressed: Yes
TPS Limpin: No
MAP Sensor Limpin: No
Crank Signal Intermittent: No
No Trans Bus Message: No
Trans Flt Current (OBD2): No
Cruise Switch Failed: No
Pedal Sensor Failure: No
Level1 Safety Cruise off Request: Yes
Level1 Safety Cruise Disable Request: No
Cam Signal Missing: No
Cam/Crank Signal Tolerance: No
Crank Signal Missing: No
Cruise Not Learned/Configured: No
4WD Low: No
Disengaged Due To Disenabled: No
P/N SWITCH in P or N: No
N/V > High Limit: No
N/V < Low Limit: No
Engine RPM Greater than High Limit: No
Set Attempted Below Intelligent Cruise Control (ICC) SET MPH MIN: No
Clutch Interlock Switch Pressed: No
Cruise Switch Failed: No
Cruise Disabled: No
Wheel Spin Detected: No
On/Off switch Pressed: No
TPS Limpin: No
MAP Sensor Limpin: No
Trans Flt Current (OBD2): No
No Trans Bus Message: No
Cruise Switch Failed: No
Pedal Sensor Failure: No
Level1 Safety Cruise off Request: No
Crank Signal Intermittent: No
Cruise Not Learned/Configured: No
Level1 Safety Cruise Disable Request: No
Cam Signal Missing: No
Cam/Crank Signal Tolerance: No
Crank Signal Missing: No
4WD Low: No
Auxiliary Heater Information:
Coolant Temp Limitation: 156.00 Deg.C
Actual Coolant Temp: 4.80 Deg.C
Actual Ambient Temp: 4.00 Deg.C
PTC enable automatic control status: Not requested
PTC 1 Relay Request (Bus Message Tx): Not requested
PTC 2 Relay Request (Bus Message Tx): Not requested
PTC 3 Relay Request (Bus Message Tx): Not requested
Add-on heater status (PTC relay #1 status) via CAN: Not requested
Add-on heater status (PTC relay #2 status) via CAN: Not requested
Add-on heater status (PTC relay #3 status) via CAN: Not requested
RPM Threshold Not Achieved: Yes
Fuse condition for stepwise switch-off: No
Ignition Off-Draw (IOD) Fuse Pulled: No
Battery Voltage Too Low: No
Alternator load too high: No
HVAC Rear Defeat Message: No
HVAC Front Defeat Message: Yes
Coolant Temp Too High: No
Start Delay not achieved: Yes
PTC Heater 1: Off
PTC Heater 2: Off
PTC Heater 3: Off
Fixed Displacement A/C Status:
A/C Coolant Pressure: 3600.00 hPa
A/C Pressure Upper Limit: 32800.00 hPa
AC Disabled Due To Coolant Temperature Too High: No
Defrost Selected: No
A/C Selected: No
AC requested: Yes
Status of A/C Switch: Off
Fan Request 1: Off
Fan Request 2: Off
Variable Displacement A/C Status:
A/C compressor PWM status: 0.00 %
A/C Coolant Pressure: 3600.00 hPa
A/C Pressure Upper Limit: 32800.00 hPa
Evaporator temperature: -4.80 Deg.C
Evaporator Target Temperature: 29.60 Deg.C
Ambient temperature: 4.00 Deg.C
AC Evaporator Temperature Failed: No
A/C Head Pressure Cut Out: No
AC Evaporator Temp Message Cut Out: No
AC freeze flag: No
A/C Compressor Over speed Cut Out: No
Defrost Selected: No
A/C Selected: No
AC requested: Yes
Fan Request 1: Off
Fan Request 2: Off
IMA/IVA code of injector cylinder 1 (6 Cylinder Application): 7RGK255
IMA/IVA code of injector cylinder 2 (6 Cylinder Application): 81R64A6
IMA/IVA code of injector cylinder 3 (6 Cylinder Application): ASZEA1A
IMA/IVA code of injector cylinder 4 (6 Cylinder Application): 8IHH6WA
IMA/IVA code of injector cylinder 5 (6 Cylinder Application): 78ZRYW4
IMA/IVA code of injector cylinder 6 (6 Cylinder Application): 6Y6ZZ13
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Does it show valid engine rpm from the crank signal while cranking? You should be able to monitor that with alpha obd just make sure your not looking at cam signal. Is the rail pressure at least 3500 psi while cranking?

I am not 100% sure. I have seen the fuel rail pressure around 300 bar which should be close to 3500 psi. As for the RPM, the tacho moves and respondes to the high sputters, but I cannot find a good crankshaft parameter in AOBD to go off of. I may need to hook a scope up to the crank sensor and see the waveforms.
Sounds like tone wheel. Have you had the tone wheel recall performed?
I Agree with you. W58 has NOT been performed on this vehicle. It's almost as if either the fuel isn't getting past the HPFP, or the tone ring has flung off the reluctor wheel. The truck really wants to start sometimes. I've gotten close 3 or 4 times but no fire. Could very well be due to the timing between the crank and injectors. (due to tone ring missing) You would just think the ECU would throw a code. Has anyone lost a reluctor and DIDNT have a code output?

I need all of the info I can get. I ordered one of them phone borescopes from amazon for $20. Hopefully, on Saturday I can pull the starter and use the borescope to colonoscopy the magnetic strip. I have no crankshaft codes. The only codes I have is the swirl valve code and a T stat code. I've had these since October. Changed the T-Stat to no avail on the P0128 code. I am an industrial electrician by trade, so wrenching all day at work only to come home to wrench in the cold, really puts a damper on things. Just gotta keep going and get thru this mess.

Thanks again, everyone, for ANY input. Special thanks to forum member tjkoen01 for the private DMs

Personal Rant ahead, no need to read:
I have a rental car until next Wednesday. 400 bucks :(. My electrical panel in my house is single phased so I have to use a genny for anything requiring 240V in the house. Waiting on the inspector to tell me when he can come out to sign off on the utility when they reinstall the meter. Because of this, I have not had hot water. Since I am a recently single father with full custody of 3 children, I needed hot water.. I had to improvise and install a propane water heater OUTSIDE and plumb it into the house. I took the guts out and transformed it to burn wood instead of propane. It makes for a nice hot shower, which was heaven the day I got it working since I hadn't taken a shower in a week :sneaky:. That night I had the best, most rewarding shower I had ever taken in my life. just a bummer to go out in the winter and light it every night. Considering I have 2 other dead dodges in my driveway, I have to get 1 driveable. Fun Fact, one of the trucks I have (a 1996 Dakota) runs on wood instead of gasoline. So that's fun.
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Tach reads off the camshaft position sensor
Interesting. So what cheeseball at FCA wrote this ECU code? They didn't have any redundancy in their power system to avoid a complete catastrophe if a 50-dollar part deep within the bowels of the engine decides to suicide itself? I mean, I am assuming that W58 RECALL basically just recodes the ECU to base engine timing off of the camshaft (in a crank sensor failure scenario) since they are already pulling a voltage pulse from a sensor attached to it? Why not do this from the get-go, by default, incase the crank sensor fails? Why not just use the cam sensor for engine timing, anyways?

I am a noob when it comes to this stuff and I am the worst person to be an armchair quarterback here, but come on Mopar.... Come on... Rookie mistakes.
They fca chose not to pay bosch for the logic to run with the cam sensor in case of failure, the logic has been around for a long time. The W58 recall just adds the logic so it can run off the cam sensor it well just be in limp mode and have a cel. Ideally you want both since cam and crank are not at the same rpm. If the tone wheel fails but doesnt damage the sensor it often doesn't cause a code. But about 50% of the time it strikes the sensor and damages it which causes a P0336 code. If the ecm doesn't see a valid crank signal it wont fire the fuel injectors, these are controlled by the ecm on the ground side power comes from the asd relay which is also controlled by the ecm.
Thank you sir!
Well, I have a small amount of good news.

I was able to pickup an 8 channel Hantec scope analyzer from my boss at work.

This should give us (and the poor bloke from the future having the same issues reading this thread) a much clearer picture of what sensors are working and which arnt. By looking at the generated analog sine wave from the crank sensor, I should be able to crank the engine and monitor the signal right down to the micro second. This will indicate graphically if the tone ring is compromised. We should see a patternized dip in the voltage.

This unit being 8 channels will also give me the capability to monitor the injector pulse signals, fuel pump signal, throttle signal, ect. As well as, also monitor the amperage draw from each unit and voltages, right down to microseconds of the 4th dimension. Cool. Sounds like my kind of weekend!

If anyone out there with an oscilliscope and a "working as intended" EcoDiesel could provide us an image(s) of the known good sine wave forms with a cranking engine on the crank and injectors, that would be GOLD.

I will report back soon with more information.

Thanks guys!
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Does anyone know which fuel pressure sensors are for the lift pump and which are for the HPFP? On the elec. prints, I see a 12v sensor and a 5v sensor. Both of these are in the C2 connector in the TIPM going to the ECM respectively. I also see a fuel pressure regulator. Does this regulator control the lift pump pressure or the HPFP? I thought the volume solenoid was for the HPFP and the lift pump ran on a PWM varying voltage.

Need some clarification if anyone is aware.
The regulator or fuel quantity solenoid in the hpfp controls the volume of fuel allowed into the pumping cylinder in the pump. The fuel pressure regulator in the rail controls the return flow side of the rails, both are used to control the high pressure side and used pwm. The low pressure side is controlled by the lift pump it self in the tank. If you have at least 3500 psi of rail pressure while cranking fuel side should be fine.

This helps a lot, thank you.

Is the lift pump controlled with a small VFD or PWM?

Also, assuming the PRV for the fuel rail return line goes bad, it fails closed. If this is the case, it would hinder fuel flow to the injector, am I correct? I am also going to assume that this system has some sort of redundancy by using a metered bypass orifice to the tank?

Sorry for all of the questions. You're guy's knowledge is gold to me.
Does anyone by any chance happen to know what the thread size is on the yellow oil filter housing drain plug? I was thinking about whipping up a gauge to test pressures, and just use a nipple with a gauge in place of the plug.
Brief video of the crank, no start condition I am having, for the record:

Still have not had the time to hook up the analyzer. I have a set of back-probes and a set of automotive piercing-probes coming from Amazon on Saturday. Michigan is supposed to be getting a foot of snow starting tomorrow so I NEED to get this dead horse into my barn. Have a 2 ton chainfall Im thinking of hooking up to a 6x8 timber in my pole barn and pulling it in so I can get out of the element's for diagnostic.

I will update when I find out more info. I will also have a probe cam to peek thru the starter hole at the reluctor if I see high strangeness on the scope meter reading.

Again, hoping this bad luck of mine can help another DIY'er someday down the road so I plan to document this process in a well lit room.

Meanwhile, I will be checking the local wreck yards weekly for smashed ED's that I could pull a spare 3.0 from since im unfortunately married to this truck financially now. Just an idea.
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Here is a waveform taken from the crank sensor while turning over with the starter motor.

Rectangle Gadget Font Display device Gas
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I played around a bit more with the Hantek scope I have. The software is no where near as good as Picos however I am about 99% sure this reluctor is bad. I just wish I knew why it wont throw a code.

Pulling the trans this weekend...

More to come.
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Hello friends, just stopping by to give a small update on the crank, no-start saga with my 2015 Ram ED.

The truck is on jackstands in my barn and is prepped to have the gearbox pulled today. I would have had it pulled last night however the temperature dropped as fast as the daylight in a Michigan January and ontop of that, I did not have my Torx socket set available to remove the trans cooler lines/shift sensor bracket from the gearbox housing.

The battery has been disconnected, Front propeller shaft, rear propeller shaft, def tank, skid plates for the gearbox and def tank, 2 cross-members, starter motor (my God... terrible location), electrical connectors, trans cooler, trans cooler lines, shift sensor module, and 3 trans mounts, have all been removed from the truck.

Im am eagerly anticipating what I will see when the rock-solid, ZF 8-speed gearbox and torque converter are removed. If the reluctor isnt broken, I guess we replace it for another 120k miles and continue diagnosing. Also, fuel rail target pressures are satisfied when cranking. Ruling out fuel delivery or CP4 issues. For now...

(Side note before I forget, the starter and starter solenoid package is bolted on the bell-housing above the front propeller shaft and under the turbo assembly. Outside of this being in what appears to be a difficult location, it appears that the starter and solenoid housings have gotten pretty darn hot during vehicle lifetime. The metal is blued in some areas and overall just appears to be scorched by ambient heat from the engine block, trans, and turbo. I'm thinking I may wrap this in rockwool since changing it looks to be a mess.)

After this reluctor job is complete I am going after the clogged intake and my swirl-valve codes. This is where I had a little luck, actually.....

I found a fellow forum member who was selling a pre-ban GDE Hot Tuned PCM for a very decent price and for my very same truck. He replied quickly and has remained in contact. The best part is, turns out he lives an hour from me. Once this is installed, along with a brand new intake plenum, hopefully this engine will keep ticking on for me. It at very least gives me a little more motivation to get her back on the road sooner at the very least, and see what she drives like when the engine can aspirate the way it was meant to.

Lord knows this $370 per week rental Toyota will be the financial death of me.

Again, I will be posting a guide with pics and video (maybe video) which will include the procedure I used to DIY the reluctor wheel repair as well as, A parts and tool list of the items needed to complete not only the infamous reluctor wheel, but the intake plenum as well.

Have a great week friends!
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It's good to have an extra hand around. 😃

Cloud Automotive tire Cool Tints and shades Automotive exterior
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I'm really hoping this will be your tone wheel. Just as a FYI, check your starter ground wire. My dealer had to replace mine. I think the wire might get hot because of the longer starts with the failed tone wheel.
You and I both! I figure, either its the tone wheel or its not! 🤣
I can spend more time with the scope trying to interpret CKP sensor waveforms until the moon comes up and I feel I will always have the same result. Inconsistencies. Which could be a depiction of many variables. The biggest one being myself. However, the truck still does not run until a wrench touches metal. Time is of the essence and time is spread thin these days.

Now, I dont want to bark too much before I get myself bit by Murphey, but the job is literally just loosening a handful of nuts and bolts and moving components out of the way. There isn't much too the job as long as whoever the "monkey" changing the parts is, has access to a few (not many) basic hand tools, and preferably a shelter to do it in. Which I am blessed to have both.

The hard part is troubleshooting a vehicle that has limited resources available. Takes more than a monkey with a wrench. Thats where you all come into play ofcourse! 🤣 I am here for the vast amounts of knowledge and plan to pay my dues thru contribution.

This isn't nearly as bad as drilling busted header studs out of a Ford 300. Or even replacing the engine oil in a Tesla. Certainly, in my opinion anyways, does not warrant tossing 3k in labor fee's to a dealership full of "We'll get to it next week. Possibly." OEM mechanics.
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Assuming you will also replace the crank positio0n sensor. I suggest using an OEM sensor.
Mopar seems to of dropped the price from what it was rumored to be on the CKP sensor. I have heard 650 bucks. I have heard 300 bucks. But it looks like they have the wheel for $25 and the sensor for $130 or so.

People have issues with non OEM sensors?
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Run. Get that GDE ECM.

You get the tone wheel sorted out then do not miss that GDE programming. It would eliminate your EGR issues by shutting it off.
No kidding! After this reluctor wheel is fixed, the intake is coming off. Really would rather not have to replace it again in 75k miles. Sure seems like it shouldn't be a "wearable part". Thanks EPA!
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I'm really hoping this will be your tone wheel. Just as a FYI, check your starter ground wire. My dealer had to replace mine. I think the wire might get hot because of the longer starts with the failed tone wheel.
Thank you for the tip and will do!!!
anyone ever have trouble separating the trans from the engine?

I have taken out 8 bellhousing bolts. Dont see any up top
There is more up top middle area
You stand corrected. Thanks! 10 bolts total. The upper 2 are hard to see and one of them you will need a 3 to 4ft extension over the top of the gearbox in order to break lose.

Saying that, and 403583 electrical connections later, I have the gearbox separated.

Hood Motor vehicle Electrical wiring Auto part Wire

A worry of mine however, is I lost about a pint or so of trans fluid out of the bell housing when I separated the trans from the engine block. Could this be fluid that leaked out of the input shaft area of the torque converter due to the angle I was at or was this fluid from something more sinister such as a broken seal in the pump or torque converter?

I will have to inspect everything carefully when I get it pulled away more. Ran out of time and had to head to work.

Thanks guys!
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