[jhauler55]

She runs!

Now for the intake. Might as well throw the tuned PCM in there too while im at it. I have a block off kit ready to go. Will be replacing the rubber water hose notoriously under the intake manifold.

 

[jhauler55]

Intake manifold is fully removed. I have the upgraded banjo fitting for the head to turbo coolant connection. Mine was not leaking, yet, however had a nice buldge and appeared to be an "any day now" item so im happy this will be fixed. The upgraded part utilizes a stainless braided hose which will stand up to the environment its in much better.

From all of the other non EGR deleted trucks I've seen so far, mine did not appear to be as bad as the others. As bad. Still unacceptable. A strange thing I noticed was the only tar like carbon build up I had (which is normally affiliated with EGR cooler leaks) was on the right side for cylinders 2 4 6. Any idea why this side appeared wet and the other side appeard dry and flakey?

After removing what seems like 50 electrical connectors, I finally am starting to feel like this insane task will be over soon. I see a light. Dim, but its there...

I will have what feels like a new truck here, shortly. Maybe even just in time for the snow storm thats coming! Lord knows this Dodge Charger im renting does poorly in slick conditions. 😭

All in all, I will be changing: Trans pan/filter, Trans fluid, Front and Rear Diff fluid, CKP reluctor wheel, CKP sensor, Intake Manifold, Mass Airflow sensor, 1 Fuel Line (i messed one up good removing. Dont wanna risk since they are technically "one time use") Turbo coolant line, Cleaned out heads, and a Pre ban PCM exchange along with the EGR full bypass kit. Its like Christmas!

 

[jhauler55]

"Please delete this duplicate post"
Sorry mods, I dont see a delete option on mobile.

 

[biodiesel]

The upgraded part utilizes a stainless braided hose which will stand up to the environment its in much better.

I need to buy that line, too. I assume you used the Dorman part# 667-562?

 

[jhauler55]

I need to buy that line, too. I assume you used the Dorman part# 667-562?

Here you go sir!!

Dorman 667-562 Turbocharger Water Feed Line Compatible with Select Jeep/Ram Models (OE FIX)

Buy Dorman 667-562 Turbocharger Water Feed Line Compatible with Select Jeep/Ram Models (OE FIX) at Amazon. Customer reviews and photos may be available to help you make the right purchase decision!

www.amazon.com

 

[biodiesel]

Here you go sir!!

Dorman 667-562 Turbocharger Water Feed Line Compatible with Select Jeep/Ram Models (OE FIX)

Buy Dorman 667-562 Turbocharger Water Feed Line Compatible with Select Jeep/Ram Models (OE FIX) at Amazon. Customer reviews and photos may be available to help you make the right purchase decision!

www.amazon.com

I already had it in my cart!

 

[jhauler55]

New filter, (trans pan) and fluid in the truck today.

On a side note, does anyone know the procedure for the turbo coolant line replacement? Drain all coolant from engine? Drain a little? Drain none? Also, ive heard rumblings about the turbo needing to come out. Is this true? I think if I unbolt the banjo fitting on the turbo for the upper coolant hose, I should be able to get to the banjo fitting bolt on the one I need to change.

 

[biodiesel]

On a side note, does anyone know the procedure for the turbo coolant line replacement? Drain all coolant from engine? Drain a little? Drain none? Also, ive heard rumblings about the turbo needing to come out. Is this true? I think if I unbolt the banjo fitting on the turbo for the upper coolant hose, I should be able to get to the banjo fitting bolt on the one I need to change.

What I can tell you is that the 10 year/150,000 mile coolant showed that it needed to be changed when I pulled a coolant sample at 94,993 miles. Since the system is very difficult to flush, I now drain and fill every year via the radiator drain port. The entire coolant system is only 11.6 quarts. When I do a drain and fill, I get about 3 quarts (approximately 25% of the system) to drain. This is with the truck parked on ramps. So, whatever you do, just remember, coolant is cheap and easy to replace. I haven't had any problems with trapped air pockets in the system by this simple and drain procedure.

 

[jhauler55]

Ok, just ordered 3 gallons of the Mopar 150k OAT. Might as well fill flush fill while im at it. Already this far in. I was able to source a fuel rail line on amazon today as well for 16 bucks. I FUBAR'd one of the small ones trying to take it off the injector. Didnt trust it. 16 bucks tho, hopefully it holds. Bought 2.

 

[jhauler55]

Alright men,

Engine is fully assembled. (New intake manifold, 2 New fuel lines, New injector return system, New coolant connection under intake, New coolant, New oil, New filter, Delete kit installed, New Trans fluid, New trans filter, New rear diff fluid, new T case fluid, New front diff fluid, New cabin filter .)

GDE tuned PCM installed, VIN rewritten, Injector codes transferred over.

And as I stated above, new crank reluctor and sensor. Trans back in place.

I was heading off to work this morning and decided id go and give the key a crank. As I had suspected from having the entire fuel system open for the intake swap I have a LOT of air in the high pressure side of the fuel system. Causing... A crank no start. go figure.

The crank seemed very sluggish, id get a few detonations here and there but nothing to chain react. I am guessing that I have a massive air pocket in the fuel rail that I had taken off and cleaned out. In addition to the return lines that I had to replace. (I broke the plastic Tee fitting on top of one of the injectors when I was tightening the flare nuts for a fuel line. Quick note, these are 20 dollar parts and they take 5 days for shipping. Do yourself a favor and have a TEE and a Elbow on hand) I am really hoping this to be the case. I don't know if MOPAR has a procedure for the ED when it comes to air bleeding the high pressure fuel side, but I am just going to go "by the book" and treat the fuel system for what it is. A hydraulic system. Something I actually do know a bit about.

My plan is to crack the union nuts on the injectors and have my nanny crank the engine over in a few short bursts and try to push the air out thru the loose union nut. I have not yet decided how to purge the return line system or if it even needs to be purged.

 

[Brokedownbutgood]

No need to purge the high pressure fuel system just cycle the key a few times to purge the low pressure and it should self prime in 30-60 seconds of cranking. Make sure and charge the battery as well so it cranks faster.

 

[jhauler55]

No need to purge the high pressure fuel system just cycle the key a few times to purge the low pressure and it should self prime in 30-60 seconds of cranking. Make sure and charge the battery as well so it cranks faster.

I was hoping that to be the case. I have the battery on the charger currently. I couldn't understand why the crank sounded slow. Battery was on the charger while cranking so I know its not the battery. I cross referenced my alpha OBD analog sensor log from before and after the rebuild just because there were so many sensors I had removed/unterminated. The only thing I see that's different (besides my swirl valve percentages being where they should be now) is a "Alternator Load Too High" signal. This is not an OBD code, just a parameter in the PCM. I can say, it definitely sounds like its overloaded. I didn't have much time to dig deep.

After work today I plan to hand crank the engine with a wrench and see if 1. The belts moving 2. All pullies are moving, and 3. I don't feel anything other than compression. Before the intake removal, just after I had reinstalled the gearbox for a new CKP sensor/Reluctor, It started right up as normal. I am missing something, somewhere. Or, my alternator/ac/water pump locked up from sitting. I find that unlikely. 9 times out of 10, if I change a part to "fix" a problem but create another problem in the process, it's self inflicted. But there ARE those rare occasions....

 

[jhauler55]

Can anyone supply me with a fuel return line schematic? I think thats my problem...

 

[jhauler55]

Shes running. Update soon. I have to go top off my silly 8HP70.

 

[jhauler55]

Maiden voyage went well. Well, the second maiden voyage.... after I let the transmission warm up to add those last 3 or 4 quarts of 40 dollar per quart mopar oil into the autobox, I took it down the road. The moment I got into the throttle (very lightly) i got a DTC. Limped home which luckily was 50 feet away, and plugged in alphaOBD. The dreaded P0299 was my new drinking buddy for the night.

Luckily for me, i noticed the hose from the charge air cooler to the throttle body had blown off the neck at the cooler. Easy fix.

The only "odd" noise i heard was a possible right front wheel bearing getting grindy when the wheel is turned at speed. Ive done a million and a half of those, so I can be OK with that.

The other noise I have had lately which isnt new to this build, is right around 3k rpm i hear a loud whistle or almost a whine. Sounds like a spooling up super charger to be honest. I think its either the waste gate whistling or a bad belt pully. I will dog into it soon.

Talk about a great feeling of accomplishment.

 

[jhauler55]

I got 3 quarts of trans fluid in that transmission at around 100F fluid temp. Seems... Excessive. It still didn't flow out of the hole very steady either so it could use more. Going to have to hit up the dealership for a quart or 2 of thier not 40 but 60 dollar 8/9 speed fluid. Crazy times we live in. 🤣

The gearbox was not downshifting early or shuttering, so I dont think it being low will cause an issue. Especially since im still "breaking things in" so to speak.

As for the new GDE PCM. What can I say? It smells like a diesel engine instead of burnt paint. When I pull out into traffic I no longer pucker up. It just goes. Like it always should have. Without an EGR to boot. Looking at Verndiesels intake was all I needed to be convinced.

 

[biodiesel]

Going to have to hit up the dealership for a quart or 2 of thier not 40 but 60 dollar 8/9 speed fluid. Crazy times we live in. 🤣

I run Amsoil in mine. Amsoil makes the OTL and ATL fluids. If you're a preferred customer, it comes out to $9.39 per quart for the OTL and $16.29 per quart for the ATL. I'm planning to do a drain and fill every 50,000 miles on my trucks. Note: I have the PPE transmission pan.

 

[Bily90]

My truck had 133k miles when the tonering flaked out. I did not have the software patch/recall done but I did have AAA. Which was nice.

152k miles My tone wheel went out on my test drive lol. lost all power pulled onto a side street (2 blocks from home) called dealership to come get there S%&* flatbed there in 35 min. 2 weeks later tone wheel and a couple other things found while tore apart were fixed. been a great truck last year and a half went down a month ago for a valve body covered by extended warranty! So all said and done 300 out of pocket i cant complain about it.....

 

[jhauler55]

I run Amsoil in mine. Amsoil makes the OTL and ATL fluids. If you're a preferred customer, it comes out to $9.39 per quart for the OTL and $16.29 per quart for the ATL. I'm planning to do a drain and fill every 50,000 miles on my trucks. Note: I have the PPE transmission pan.

I have used Amsoil a few times. Certainly a great product. Gale Banks did a video on his youtube channel where he toured the Amsoil facility in Wisconsin, USA. That particular video really made me actually understand the real world engineering problems of manufactoring bulk, multiple blends of oil. The amount of things that can go wrong in the process is incredible. The amount of effort and money investments Amsoil has done to thier quality control of end product is amazing. When you actually dive into the history and the facts of Amsoil, you start to understand why it's so highly reguarded as the best of the best. I would switch to Amsoil in a heartbeat, however on a 8HP with 135k miles under its belt, I'm hesitant to say the least. I would like another 150k miles out of this gearbox lord willing. So far, the Mopar 8/9 fluid has proven to me that it can handle 150k. Why switch now? Not to forget the amount of work it would be to completely 100% drain the gearbox, TC, Cooler and lines, ect. In order to avoid cross contamination of the 2 fluids.

 

[jhauler55]

152k miles My tone wheel went out on my test drive lol. lost all power pulled onto a side street (2 blocks from home) called dealership to come get there S%&* flatbed there in 35 min. 2 weeks later tone wheel and a couple other things found while tore apart were fixed. been a great truck last year and a half went down a month ago for a valve body covered by extended warranty! So all said and done 300 out of pocket i cant complain about it.....

Sorry to hear this my friend. Its a real bummer. It really tested my wits at a terrible time in life. Im writing a paper currently about our ED powerplant specifically, that will delv into the science behind the reluctor wheel style that is used on these trucks. As well as, why it is where it is. There are actually benefits to having a rear mounted CKP. A lot of them are related to crank harmonics. But the style of tone ring they currently use has some engineering yield points that are easily met by our trucks. Sometimes they fail in trucks with years of use left. The amount of money we are willingly paying for these vehicles is insane. But thats really just the tip of the iceburg... Dont need to go there..

Either way, what FCA has pulled with our trucks is criminal. I dont have blue hair and I hate complaining, but it just downright is. Critical parts like the CKP reluctor should not fail within a vehicles lifetime. By that I mean, the day that the 5 year note gets paid off, should be the beginning of another few years of solid driving. We pay too much to have engineering corners cut which ultimately effect how I put food on my table. And I PAID for this to boot.