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Discussion Starter · #81 ·
152k miles My tone wheel went out on my test drive lol. lost all power pulled onto a side street (2 blocks from home) called dealership to come get there S%&* flatbed there in 35 min. 2 weeks later tone wheel and a couple other things found while tore apart were fixed. been a great truck last year and a half went down a month ago for a valve body covered by extended warranty! So all said and done 300 out of pocket i cant complain about it.....
Do you know how you lost your trans valve body? Rarely do i hear about 8hp70s having any valving issue. But then again, maybe its because im not lookin..
 

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I would switch to Amsoil in a heartbeat, however on a 8HP with 135k miles under its belt, I'm hesitant to say the least. I would like another 150k miles out of this gearbox lord willing. So far, the Mopar 8/9 fluid has proven to me that it can handle 150k. Why switch now? Not to forget the amount of work it would be to completely 100% drain the gearbox, TC, Cooler and lines, ect. In order to avoid cross contamination of the 2 fluids.
There's no concern with Amsoil mixing with the factory fill. In my opinion, this is why performing a drain and fill at 50,000-mile intervals is a good idea. You don't always get 100% of the fluid out, so you're mixing the new with the old fluid each time. I'm taking fluid samples as I go along, so that helps me monitor the condition of the transmission. If you take care of these transmissions, they can last a long time. Vern got 700,000 miles out of his transmission pulling trailers, so that says a lot.
 

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2015 RAM 1500 Laramie Ecodiesel fully deleted 6" lift 35" venom terra hunter
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Do you know how you lost your trans valve body? Rarely do i hear about 8hp70s having any valving issue. But then again, maybe its because im not lookin..
I am honestly not sure. the master tech that was working on it said he has only seen a handful fail at most. you can see my thread i created when it happened. tech just said the valves or valve were stuck causing the failure. i will not sit here and act like i 100% know the functionality of the part bc i do not. but i do know that after it being replaced, all the weird quirks were gone the hard shifting 1-2 3-4, the CLUNK going into park, park to drive or reverse. all the things i thought were just normal to an ecodiesel as like you ive heard nothing bad about the 8hp70 trans.
 

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Discussion Starter · #84 · (Edited)
Had an issue come up the second day of testing. Hit one of those michigan widow maker pot holes and shortly after threw a DTC and into limp mode i went. Heard a lot of clicking and clunking in the trans area which sounded mechanical and made my heart bleed.

Pulled over when I could and pulled out AlphaOBD. Only had one code which turned out to be a P02E8.

Got on our forums here and was quickly saved by brokedownbutgoods secret insider knowledge. Here's the thread:


An orange connector, hard to reach by the throttle body you say? Yep. I know where that is. And just as Broke said, it was indeed lose. Still connected, but not locked on. Cannot be anymore greatful of how much knowledge is in this library of ours.

Today I was able to hammer down on the truck a bit.

The test:
Took the truck for a higher mileage, higher rpm highway trip. We had a very strong headwind for 50% of the time as well as a tail wind. Winter fuel here in the north is far inferior the summer blend when it comes to performance and fuel mileage I have noticed. Temps outside never got much above 18F and the wind chill was sub zero.

The truck:
2015 Tradesmen quad 4x4. 133k miles. GDE PB tune. Rotella t6 540. 3.55 final, no bed cover or cap. Still on the DEF. I am running 34 inch EE ply Hancooks which are quite heavy and have reduced MPG by 10% or so id say. 3 inch rear 2 inch front leveling kit with extended upper arms. Coolant temp platued nicely at 204 degrees. Which on a sub zero wind chill day at 80mph while slicing into a 35mph lake effect headwind, 204F on the coolant temp is about all you can hope for. No grill cover. All of my insulation and the plastic "skid plate" under the rad have been since deleted. Trans never went over 170F degrees. Oil hung out at 212F.


The results:
Its a whole new truck. They say GDE will add around 45 to 55hp. And double those numbers in shaft torque. Since my intake was passing in roughly the same air flow as an 80 year old lifetime smoker takes to blow out thier birthday candles. So I'm assuming what I am feeling on the concrete is a bit more than what GDE alone can do. I drove about 130 miles round trip and averaged 25 mpg. Without the heavy tires, lift, and the poor winter fuel It would probably be close to 28-29 on stock truck with a tune. Not to mention I idled my truck a good 5 hours the last few days all together (slow girlfriend) and my soot mass started at 30% and never went over 50%.. Thats incredible. My stock tune had been regenerating almost every other day prior. Its sounds more clackity clack up front also. Slightly more turbo noise. Pre GDE definitely feels better in tow/haul mode when no Trans tune has been flashed. I would like to see what a peddelmonster would do.

I drove a good 50 miles or so before I added the trans fluid to "top off hot". Ended up adding another 3/4 quart until I had a steady drip. So all together 8 quarts of trans oil was drained and re added to the system. I did drain about a quart or so from the T-converter when I had it out and it still had another quart and a half left in it id guess(it drains slowwwwww). I also had the trans cooler opened up so the lines dripped out all fluid. This goes to show everyone 2 things. First, how much fluid is still in the autobox that does not drain. It's not just the TC and cooler/lines that are taking up all of that fluid you missed. And the machine sat for a good 4 weeks before this, draining as much T. oil as possible. I wanna say capacity on the 8hp70 is around 11 to 12 quarts. Could be way off... The second question I had that I was able to get a real world answer for was realted to the amount of posts on the web concerning the maintenance on our trucks transmissions. I'm not talking about the "it has lifetime service" bean counting jargin FCA feeds us debate either. I'm strickly talking about how concerned everyone is about having to do this job and then having something go wrong due to improper filling. Sure it's not as easy as a top fill trans but its not THAT bad. I didn't burn myself. I didn't make a mess. I didn't "level the truck" and then question if the trans has to be level.. Then decide to jack the rear up 8 to 10 inches like so many have on the different forums. I've read so many "this is the only way and right way" claims. Come to find out, I added 3 quarts when running, never got a dribble and ran the truck for 3 days without ever topping off fully. Including a drive to the dealership to buy more. Not once did I notice any transmission shutters, slips, downshifts, clunks, ect. It ran as smooth as it does since I topped off today.

Now im in the North and its March so it does take my cold transmission around 15 mins to reach 80F and then about 20 minutes or so of idling to get from 80 degrees to 120F degrees on the Trans temp. This process is absolutely more stressful on the hot days I'd assume.

In the meantime I will be changing the oil/filter this week sometime in hopes of flushing carbon sludge from the bottom end of the engine.

Does anyone know offhand if VernDiesel is still running his original transmission/rear end?
 

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Does anyone know offhand if VernDiesel is still running his original transmission/rear end?
Vern got 700,000 miles out of his 1st transmission and he's on his third rear end, I believe.
 
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