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g.baum,

Very easy to remove. As easy as a oil change. Depending on your model you may have to remove a skip plate (4 bolts), a cross member (4 bolts) and plastic skip plate for the DEF tank. Other than that, there are 2 electrical connections, 1 DEF fluid line (like some fuel line connectors), the filler tube (in back of tank) and a vent tube on top and on the back of the tank. 1 hour max. That includes getting the fluid out of the tank first so it is not to heavy.

Gene, I am reverse engineering the thing now. In a few days I will know more about that tank than I care to admit. What I do know at this point is that is not a serviceable item. I would encourage anyone that needs a new one to purchase from one of the 3rd party mopar sites or try to find one in a wreck.

A little more info I found today:

FCA / Mopar wants $2,100.00 USD for a new DEF tank for a 2014 ED to model year 2017.

FCA / Mopar wants $1260.00 USD for a new DEF tank for a 2017 - 2018.

As far as I know, there is no difference in the physical or mechanical properties of both tanks.

If anyone has a DEF tank issue on a model year prior to 2017 or later, that they need to get fixed in the future you can get a 2017 + DEF tank with heater and level sensor for $758.00 at the following URL. Brand new.

https://www.rampartsinc.com/p/Ram_2017_1500/TANK-Diesel-Exhaust-Fluid--Part-Includes-Temp-Sensor-and-Level-Unit/69405845/52029737AI.html

The only thing that has changed between the model years is the part number.

2014 - 2016. Part number 68161432AM

2017 - 2018. Part Number 52029737AI

Is this a honest mistake? If not, what is it?
 

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I have attached a PDF to this message that shows how to remove the DEF tank.

BTW, in the instructions, step 7. There is no such connection on my 2014. DEF quality is monitored through a pin on connection #2 on my 2014.
 

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Juggernaught - Yes. There are 2 ways.

1. Remove the DEF filler line from the rear of the tank. That is step 9 in my howto. Then use a manual small transfer pump to create a vacuum and the suction will remove the fluid.

2. Remove the DEF pump from the tank. This will leave two 1/8" ports open from the bottom of the tank. Note: this takes more time and effort as you need to remove skid plates and remove the three screws holding the pump to the tank. Also, the rate of flow of the def leaving the tank is slow. But it is possible.

I prefer option 1. Make sure you grab both green tabs and press them in. There is one on each side of the hose. One of them could be hard to see due to your orientation. But, there are 2 of them. Push in tabs and pull back on hose to disconnect from tank.
 

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Looking at several modern liquid level sensor devices, I see that my assumption that the sensor has a simple voltage output proportional to level is most likely archaic. From what I have just read, the output of the DEF level sensor is more likely to be a variable frequency or pulse width modulation signal, which would be difficult to fake.

It really bothers me that the "engineers" would design the DEF tank such that the sensor cannot be replaced. It is a growing trend to make replaceable assemblies rather than replaceable parts. It seems planned that the only part in that tank that may fail would be permanently affixed to the tank.
 

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g.baum,

Very easy to remove. As easy as a oil change. Depending on your model you may have to remove a skip plate (4 bolts), a cross member (4 bolts) and plastic skip plate for the DEF tank. Other than that, there are 2 electrical connections, 1 DEF fluid line (like some fuel line connectors), the filler tube (in back of tank) and a vent tube on top and on the back of the tank. 1 hour max. That includes getting the fluid out of the tank first so it is not to heavy.

Gene, I am reverse engineering the thing now. In a few days I will know more about that tank than I care to admit. What I do know at this point is that is not a serviceable item. I would encourage anyone that needs a new one to purchase from one of the 3rd party mopar sites or try to find one in a wreck.

A little more info I found today:

FCA / Mopar wants $2,100.00 USD for a new DEF tank for a 2014 ED to model year 2017.

FCA / Mopar wants $1260.00 USD for a new DEF tank for a 2017 - 2018.

As far as I know, there is no difference in the physical or mechanical properties of both tanks.

If anyone has a DEF tank issue on a model year prior to 2017 or later, that they need to get fixed in the future you can get a 2017 + DEF tank with heater and level sensor for $758.00 at the following URL. Brand new.

https://www.rampartsinc.com/p/Ram_2017_1500/TANK-Diesel-Exhaust-Fluid--Part-Includes-Temp-Sensor-and-Level-Unit/69405845/52029737AI.html

The only thing that has changed between the model years is the part number.

2014 - 2016. Part number 68161432AM

2017 - 2018. Part Number 52029737AI

Is this a honest mistake? If not, what is it?
How did you determine the two different part numbers are the same tank? I have read other posts (don't ask me to tell you where they are, I've read so many) that suggest the tanks may have different electronics which would probably require recalibration programming.

Thanks for all the posts. All good information. I am now faced with a DEF gauge stuck on half but filled to the brim and a P203E code which I have cleared 2 times now. 57,000 miles on my truck and just had a diesel fuel tank lift pump replaced for over $1000 parts and labor. Going to the dealer September 20 to have them give me the " first let's replace the DEF tank and if that doesn't work let's replace the DEF pump" spiel.

I keep hoping for a recall on this system...

Hal
 

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Hal,

I determined that a 2017+ DEF tank would work in a 2014+ DEF tank by looking at the engineering drawings of both tanks. They have the same parts. Although I bet some of the internal BOSCH parts have changed to different revisions. I suspect (and this is pure speculation) the change in BOSCH parts was/is due to improved engineering.

But really I have no idea if anything was changed.

If someone can post a picture of 2017 and 2018 1500 DEF tank that would be swell.

Good luck with your issues.
 
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Hal,

I determined that a 2017+ DEF tank would work in a 2014+ DEF tank by looking at the engineering drawings of both tanks. They have the same parts. Although I bet some of the internal BOSCH parts have changed to different revisions. I suspect (and this is pure speculation) the change in BOSCH parts was/is due to improved engineering.

But really I have no idea if anything was changed.

If someone can post a picture of 2017 and 2018 1500 DEF tank that would be swell.

Good luck with your issues.
Is there any updates to this? Will the 2017 def tank work in a 2014
Thanks
 

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Congratulations on beating this problem! I'll bet that was real painful having to cut that expensive def tank in half!!

I have the same problem you had but I'm doing a few different things to try to resolve it. One thing is that I took my def tank into the house, cleaned it out real well with water from the hose, then looked inside with my camera that's on the end of a flexible rod. I saw pretty much the same things that are in your picture of the tank you cut. I have a couple questions though. First of all, is your problem still fixed? Second (I'm hoping you still have your cut up tank), what is that white stuff at the base of the level sensor/pump assembly in your photo? I'm seeing the same white stuff in my little camera-on-a-stick. Is it crystallized def?

First, I put a few gallons of boiling water into my tank and sloshed it around real good. Then I let my tank sit over night full of fresh water in it, to try to clean off the pump/level sensor. Then this morning, I looked at the white stuff again and it was still there - except now it looked a little different. It looked like I could see a screen of some sort in it. I put a bunch more boiling water into the tank and it's down there soaking.

I suspect that it's crystallized def and *that's* why I'm having this problem. I'll know soon enough. I'm going to Home Depot in a few minutes to get a handheld steam cleaner to clean my def injector and def chamber. It looks like the ones in the video. Hopefully I'll have time to get everything back together tonight before it gets cold outside so I can check it all out.

- Bob
2014 Ram 1500 Crew Cab ED with 77K
330 miles to go
 

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=BobCampbell;938960
- Bob
2014 Ram 1500 Crew Cab ED with 77K
330 miles to go
..
330 miles to go ... you know you can still start the truck even after it reaches "0 " ..
here is how : couple of threads that will guide you if you need it .

https://www.ram1500diesel.com/forum/ram-1500-diesel-general-discussion/58930-star-case-s1625000005.html#top

https://www.ram1500diesel.com/forum/ram-1500-diesel-mechanical/8425-reset-case-you-get-engine-will-not-restart-message-thanks-gde.html

how-to's in threads and pictures ..
Oh ,,,, welcome to the site :eek:
 

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If you get def on you, just rinse with water. The stars must have aligned when FCA replaced my def tank under warranty. It's funny, the dealership did a credit check on me before they fixed it.
 

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Does anyone have any experience installing a 2017 tank in a 2014 Ram 1500 and resolving this issue? The reason why I ask is because I went ahead and ordered a 2017 tank for my truck but the vendor wants me to provide a VIN before he processes my order. I do not have a VIN from a 2017 truck to give him.

-Bob
120 miles to go
 

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I should have added these pictures a few months ago. I got busy and I went off in another direction at work. In any case here they are.

This is pump sensor location in the tank after I physically cut them out of the tank. Again, this unit is plastic welded to the tank with a High Density Polymer. In other words, it is permanently attached unless you have access to some cutting edge tools at NASA.

IMG_20180828_185912789.jpg

IMG_20180828_190022088.jpg
 

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so now after reading all this my take is that cleaning the tank won't cure the problem only replacement of the tank fixed the problem ? also out of curiosity you never mentioned as to wether the tank you cut open was all clean inside when you cut it open , as that was your original tank and you had attempted to clean it was the cleaning process effective ? anyway Im glad you resolved the problem and posted all of this information now we just need another sacrificial tank to see if its crystalized or dirty inside before attempting to clean it . that might help people to avoid the hassle if we know its really just a bad sensor .
 
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