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Discussion Starter #1
Hey I'm a first time diesel owner, just wondering if people with the new ecodiesel are adding any additives each time they fuel up ? Heard diesel is really dry and adding additive will

-Totally disperses water
-Controls Waxing and Gelling
-Prevents formation of algae and harmful acid
- lubricate parts

And if you have experience with additives witch one is the best from your experience?
 

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Im using Power Service Diesel Kleen. After reading how crappy US diesel fuel is compared to european diesel was I decided to improve my fuel. Dont forget our engines were designed for use in the european Cadillac. Its cheap insurance in my book. US cetane numbers are too low to compete with the european fuels.
 

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Has anyone used OptiLube branded additives ? If so, any feedback. A number of threads on diesel forums seem to suggest this product is one o the best available. Just wanted to hear some real-life commentary from folks here.

dfi-summer+
 

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How does Jet-A. Compare to European diesel , I know it is highly refined. I know someone that uses it in an older diesel but have been told that it can't be used in the new one but not sure why . Seems a higher refined would be better just the right additives would be needed to be added. Friend adds Marvelous Mystery Oil for his older diesel.
 

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Bio diesel is the main one and probably easiest if you plan on running mainly jet fuel. I'd go 15-20% bio, 80-85% jet A. Things like Lucas,Amsoil, etc boost lubrication but aren't meant to replace it.
 

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Power service is good, and available everywhere.

Opti-Lube is better But it a pain in the butt to get. (have to order it in most places)

2% soy Bio-Diesel is the best for lube !!!!!


In PA... our fuel is a minim of 2% bio since the state it promoting Bio fuels, and have given substitutes to a few companies to produce it.


Opti and power service both are good for anti-gel, and algae.


BUT... dispersing water is a VERY BAD thing !! Unlike a gas fuel stabilizer, that will put the water in suspension to help it pass.... when you do that in a diesel engine... it's VERY hard on the high pressure pump, and injectors. The better additives push the water out of suspension, so the water trap can do it's job.


This has been around for a while. It's an independent study after we were forced to use ULSD.
 

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Inuse Opti-lube xdp, available my small diesel supply shop, IDParts.com

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk
 

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Today, I received my order of a gallon of the Opti-Lube Summer Blend - #4 on the last page of Dr Honda's attachment. Including sales tax and shipping, it was $90.30 delivered to my door. At 1.11 ounces per 26 gallons (the ED sized fuel tank) that works out to be $.78 per tank. Given the prices of the other brands, this sounds like the most economical option. Hope it works as well as the analysis results.
 

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I looked at the opti-lube site and I am curious what additive is the best to go with? You have the XPD, Summer, Summer+ and the cetane booster. I did read the brief descriptions on their page but still can't come up with a clear answer of what would be the best. I get that this time of year the summer or summer+ would be the correct answer vs the winter blend, but where does that leave the XPD or the cetane booster? Does anyone know if we could use the cetane booster with the other blends and still see a benefit or would we be wasting money at that point?

I spent a ton of money on this new truck and I want to do the best for it so I can make sure I get the most use out of it.
 

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Im using Power Service Diesel Kleen. After reading how crappy US diesel fuel is compared to european diesel was I decided to improve my fuel. Dont forget our engines were designed for use in the european Cadillac. Its cheap insurance in my book. US cetane numbers are too low to compete with the european fuels.
I agree the diesel fuel we have available in the US is indeed garbage compared to European diesel.

There is a nice article in Diesel Now Annual 2014 magazine starting on page 84 titled '14 Jeep Grand Cherokee Ecodiesel by Sean P. Holman.

The first 2~3 pages talk about the EcoDiesel engine.

On page 87, paragraph three talks about the differences between the European spec engine and the US spec version. Quoting "The injection system on the U.S. engine is more robust than the European engine to deal with lower fuel lubricity...." It goes on to say both engines have the same torque output but that the European engine has seven more horsepower.

I have always questioned the lubricating abilities of our lower sulfur diesel fuel for highway use. I use #2 red dye diesel fuel in my JD tractor and Kubota mower for this reason.

Going to read up on this OptiLube additive. Sounds like it is good stuff.
 

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I run .5 OZ of 2 stroke oil per gallon of diesel in my trucks. All of the new diesel does not have as much lubrication as the older diesel. So the 2 stroke oil keeps the system lubricated as well as quieting the injectors. I plan on running just .2 OZ per gallon of diesel in my ED to keep it lubed up.
 

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I run .5 OZ of 2 stroke oil per gallon of diesel in my trucks. All of the new diesel does not have as much lubrication as the older diesel. So the 2 stroke oil keeps the system lubricated as well as quieting the injectors. I plan on running just .2 OZ per gallon of diesel in my ED to keep it lubed up.
I wonder what that will do to the dpf and turbo vanes after a few thousand miles - I wonder the same for all additives actually. I ran stanadyne and howes for a few years before dumping it all together.
 

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I really like that 2 stroke oil idea!! If that's legit I can get a ton of that oil and it's cheap.... first I have heard of it
 

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Super Tech*Outboard 2-cycle TC-W3*engine oil
Unconventional (Not ULSD compliant, may damage 2007 or newer systems)
HFRR 474, 162 micron improvement
200:1 ratio
16.64 oz/tank
$1.09/tank


I would not trust two stroke oil. Dr. Honda referenced a test done several years ago. Above is just the two stroke results. While two stroke oil did significantly aid in lubrication its effects on emmission controls is unknown.

It's a very good article. You should read it to fully understand the results.
 

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In my old (2001) Cummins, I ran 2-stroke in every fill up.

OK... here's the deal...

The DPF can be plugged permanently with ash that can not be burnt. The TC-w3 types of oils are SUPOSED to be an "ashless" oil. They were developed to be eco friendly to water life. In my opinion... a CERTIFIED TC-w3 oil should not cause an issue.

BUT...

1) If you wish to try the 2-stroke thing... then make sure it's Certified. If the label says "Compatible", "Compliant" or "Meets or Exceeds" on the label... that's the company's way of saying.... "We are too cheep to pay for the certification, and we THINK this oil is good enough." (lol)

2) There are a BUNCH of 2-stroke oils out there. NEVER try any of the API-TC or JASO types. They have metal salts has high pressure lubricants (like our old sulfur friend) and they WILL plug (destroy) the DPF.


Just my 2 cents... take it for what it's worth.
 
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Even if you get passed the ash concerns of a 2-stroke oil you still have to contend with variances in flash points which will inevitably cause carbon and 'gum' build up. I typically run 40:1 ratios in my bikes and pull them down every 20hrs for rebuilds. Even with synthetic oils with lower flash points, the entire exhaust side is always full of gum.

Doesn't matter where you burn this oil, the same thing will happen. Might have worked well in pre dpf and vgt trucks, but I wouldn't run it in anything new.
 
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