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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

So it started with P0428: Catalyst Temperature Sensor Circuit High Bank 1 Sensor 1.

I had the truck in for some paint work last week and the day after that code came up. Not sure if its somehow related but none the less.

I tried to figure it out on my own and with no success I was planning to take it to the mechanic Monday or Tuesday.

Well I just did a few hour road trip for a day hunting trip. And tonight I get the message that the DPF is full and its gone into limp mode saying to bring it to the dealership? I read somewhere else that once the CEL is on the truck wont do the DPF Regen? Is that true? Seems pretty stupid, and would also explain why it never told me it was full or cleaned it while doing my 2 hours of highway driving today.

Question is can I force it to do the DPF regen? What if I reset the codes and rev it at 1800+ in the driveway or go for a boot on the highway? Or am I screwed now and forced to take it to the dealer? I have a bluedriver code reader, but it can't force it itself.

Thanks in advanced.
 

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I had the same exact thing happen to me last week. I erased the CEL and it quickly came back and goes into limp mode.
My truck had the AEM flash done recently but this may just be a coincidence. The dealer said they think it’s a sensor which as you mention, doesn’t allow a regen and then we get the DPF full message. The sensor takes 5 days to get in, costs $700, which doesn’t seem right, but is being covered by post AEM extended warranty. I would take it to dealer and it will be covered by warranty. If you haven’t had AEM, do that and get the extended warranty first and then have them fix this issue.
Just a shame these good engines can’t breath right and get choked by there own exhaust
 

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Yeah the extended warranty doesn't apply to Canadian owned trucks does it? I think I'm going to be screwed. Our class action hasn't settled.
 

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It's true certain codes will prevent the DPF regen. At 100% & limp mode, you will have to go to a dealer unless you have access to a WiTech or AlphaOBD.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It's true certain codes will prevent the DPF regen. At 100% & limp mode, you will have to go to a dealer unless you have access to a WiTech or AlphaOBD.
Will the alphaobd work with my bluedriver code reader? Or does it need a specific code reader. **** if Canada gets a cash settlement like the US did for the scandel I'm using it to buy a delete kit or trading my truck in.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
AlphaOBD is software that you use with an OBD interface. https://www.alfaobd.com/
I bought a ELM327 OBDII interface. It says its supported by AlphaOBD. But I can't connect to the engine module while using it. The app connects to the reader but then when I try to connect to the module it wont work.

Anyone else use this and can give some insight? Keeps telling me to try and turn it off and back to the MAR position which i assume is the run position.
 

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Yeah figured. My Bluedriver works great. But only with its own app. And it doesnt have the function to regen the DPF
 

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I bought a ELM327 OBDII interface. It says its supported by AlphaOBD. But I can't connect to the engine module while using it. The app connects to the reader but then when I try to connect to the module it wont work.

Anyone else use this and can give some insight? Keeps telling me to try and turn it off and back to the MAR position which i assume is the run position.
OBDLink MX or MX+ is your best bet,

The software requires a compatible OBD interface. At present the following types of interfaces are supported:

OBDLink MX or MX+, LX and SX. OBDLink MX or OBDLink MX+ are the recommended interfaces for the cars with high-speed CAN bus on pins 6 and 14 and the middle-speed CAN bus on the pins 3 and 11 of the OBD plug. These are most of the Chrysler/Dodge/Ram/Jeep cars, PowerNet and CUSW-based, and also Fiat Tipo/Egea. No additional adapters are needed for these cars when using OBDLink MX or MX+.
Note: Alfa Romeo Giulia/Stelvio, Fiat 500X/Toro and Jeep Renegade/Compass (MP) require the "grey" adapter for the access to the second high-speed CAN bus.
The LX and SX interfaces require "blue" adapter for the access to the middle-speed CAN bus.
The OBDLink can also be recommended for the Fiat/Alfa Romeo/Lancia CAN-based cars. The "yellow" adapter is required for the access to the low-speed CAN bus on the pins 1 and 9 od the car OBD plug.
OBDKey Bluetooth/USB/WLAN. This is a universal interface supporting all the control units used in FCA cars. Especially recommended for the non-CAN-based cars. It's a good choice (and the only one under Android) for the cars like Alfa Romeo 145/146/156/166.
ELM327 - based USB / Bluetooth / WLAN interfaces for PC and bluetooth/WiFi-enabled Android and Windows devices. All CAN units are supported and some of K-Line. Make sure the ELM 327 is of version 1.3 and above.
Warning: There are many suppliers of these interfaces, but not all of sold interfaces are compatible with AlfaOBD!
An ebay interface based on an ELM327 clone might work fine with a bit of luck. But there are lots of defective interfaces sold which can not establish connection to the car ECUs under AlfaOBD. If AlfaOBD displays a message "Interface reports NO DATA" or "Interface reports CAN ERROR" when connecting to the car ECU, this is most probably a sign that you have one of these defective interfaces. Such an interface might work fine with other diagnostic software using OBDII/EOBD protocol, but it can have issues with AlfaOBD because of a different diagnostic protocol used.
It is recommended to use an ELM327 interface tested with AlfaOBD.
For example, the interfaces sold by Electronic-Fuchs.de and Obdauto.fr have been tested for compatibility with AlfaOBD.
Kiwi 3 Bluetooth LE (Android only). All CAN units are supported and some of K-Line. The interface features very low power consumption.
KLLine USB interface. PC version only due to limitations of Android OS. No CAN support so it is recommended for the non-CAN based cars. For example, interfaces supplied by Electronic-Fuchs.de, Obdauto.fr , and ECUFix.com are supported.
 

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Well got it into dealership today. Looking at. $2000 + repair bill. Have to replace the DPF filter. Bloody piss off. Can't wait for this law suit to get settled up here. Such a love gate relationship with this truck.

If I didn't think it would screw me in the settlement later I'd just just do the delete and be done with it at this point.
 

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Well got it into dealership today. Looking at. $2000 + repair bill. Have to replace the DPF filter. Bloody piss off. Can't wait for this law suit to get settled up here. Such a love gate relationship with this truck.

If I didn't think it would screw me in the settlement later I'd just just do the delete and be done with it at this point.
Or get it home or to an independent shop have them remove it while you "locate" a replacement, do or have done a total gutting and reweld of it bring it back to be installed.
 
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