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If all he is doing is deleting, it's really not that big of deal. There's tables for the EGR and a couple of switches for DPF and DEF. Then it comes down to deleting the correct DTC's which is what I've had a hard time understanding the workings on our ECM's. I tested one of the "auto-tuning" upload sites for EGR and DEF delete and the result was more or less the same solution as SFK and MR Tuning. I wouldn't be surprised if that's what he's doing.
There's so much more to quality tuning. The stock tune is a soot laden nightmare with all the extra injector cycles. A lot of wasted fuel and soot laden oil if it's not addressed.
 
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Discussion Starter #22
Yeah - he offers more aggressive tuning but I just asked for a mild one with the deletes so I have zero idea what he does. As far as electrical, I’m reading multiple documents on removal of EGR. As far as just simply disconnecting, is it the blue clip or the red clip? I’m referring to HD Diesel documents here on page 7: https://hddieselsupply.ca/pdf/867320

I’m going to order the EGR delete kit today, but I’d like to disconnect it Saturday when I install the ECU to ensure everything functions right. I won’t actually drive it until I delete EGR and DPF. Just a start up.
 

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Note that this is Ram Ecodiesel instructions, I think GC a little different how things are routed in the engine compartment.
But yes, there are 2 connectors on the front of EGR, page 7 of your instructions. One runs the the valve itself, one is temperature sensor.
You should be able to take both of those off without truck noticing the difference.
Also regen message, or anything that has to do with it should not be there. Not sure how Jeep GC has that...
 

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Discussion Starter #24
So just looking for any education if someone can help me out.
ECU is going in tomorrow. Everyone says delete DPF and EGR if you get a tune. I guess I have two part question:

1 - Deleting the EGR, would the block off plate kit work (such as CTF Performance) or would I need to do the whole shebang delete involving coolant lines and such? Is there a reason to choose one over the other?

2 -”You need to delete the DPF and put a pipe there” - is there a particular reason for that? I mean, I don’t quite understand the harm I suppose with leaving it there.

Call me ignorant, I’m just trying to get educated.
 

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So just looking for any education if someone can help me out.
ECU is going in tomorrow. Everyone says delete DPF and EGR if you get a tune. I guess I have two part question:

1 - Deleting the EGR, would the block off plate kit work (such as CTF Performance) or would I need to do the whole shebang delete involving coolant lines and such? Is there a reason to choose one over the other?

2 -”You need to delete the DPF and put a pipe there” - is there a particular reason for that? I mean, I don’t quite understand the harm I suppose with leaving it there.

Call me ignorant, I’m just trying to get educated.
You're doing alright, no need to feel inferior.
EGR delete kit should come with all necessary plates, clamps and hoses to completely remove EGR valve and block holes, reroute coolant lines. The thing is you can leave it in place and drive with it still on the engine. But there is a known issue with EGR leaking coolant into engine so it's best to remove it.
As far as deleting SCR and DPF, this is a nesessary step, because you will be missing parts of the system that are responsible for cleaning these these out. Truck is missing regen process. Where it burns all the soot out from filter. After a short time filter will clog, so will catalyst, and more damage will be done to the engine. You want a straight shot pipe instead of filters so that soot doesn't get trapped in the exhaust.
Some ppl have hollowed out the SCR and DPF, breaking the filtering media out. I have a straight pipe from FloPro
Hope that explains it. It made total sense to me....:ROFLMAO:
 

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So just looking for any education if someone can help me out.
ECU is going in tomorrow. Everyone says delete DPF and EGR if you get a tune. I guess I have two part question:

1 - Deleting the EGR, would the block off plate kit work (such as CTF Performance) or would I need to do the whole shebang delete involving coolant lines and such? Is there a reason to choose one over the other?

2 -”You need to delete the DPF and put a pipe there” - is there a particular reason for that? I mean, I don’t quite understand the harm I suppose with leaving it there.

Call me ignorant, I’m just trying to get educated.
You can use block off plates to block the exhaust gas flow in the EGR which will leak the cooler itself in place and the coolant flowing through it. You can also get stage 2 plates and removed the cooler along with blocking the coolant flow.

As far as the exhaust you need to remove the DPF or hollow it out. It will still collect soot and plug off if you leave in place. The SCR could be left if your hollowing out your DPF but if your removing the DPF just remove the SCR canister too.


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Discussion Starter #28
Thanks guys for all your helpful info. Again, I’m just willing to be the experiment for eBay tuning (or atleast one of them).
 

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Discussion Starter #29 (Edited)
UPDATE! Plugged in ECU - disconnected EGR (just the red clip directly into the EGR, not the blue clip with the wire to the prod sticking out). It started right up. Check Engine Light was cleared. No more message about DPF being 100% full - must see dealer. No limp mode.
Only message displayed was “Exhaust filter nearing full Safely Drive at highway speeds to remedy” and I’m currently texting the tuner now.

UPDATE:He said go drive it and see if it clears. I started it up and started driving. It limits itself at 1500 rpm. Not sure what’s going on. Angry texting tuner now.

Update: Tuner called me. Apologizing. Very professional. He’s confused as to what is going on as well. He said he could refund me and return it back to stock OR ship me an OBD reader and connect it to my laptop and send him files and see what we can do. He said if that doesn’t work, he will still refund me. I will admit, very frustrated, but it is what it is.
 

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If I remember correctly, it did have a message originally that it needs regen and only way to do it is to go to dealer.
Maybe DPF is full and need to be regenerated? That is why you need to remove it all together or hollow it out.
Hollowing out would be ideal at this time so you get your truck working right.
If I was in this situation, I would hollow out DPF first before doing any more tune updates. At this point you do not have all ducks in a row for stage 2 delete.
Maybe start at that? Don't spend more money, just take DPF off, break through the media to have a straight hole and start over again. I guess it is possible truck is reading some sort of exhaust back pressure....
 

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Discussion Starter #31
If I remember correctly, it did have a message originally that it needs regen and only way to do it is to go to dealer.
Maybe DPF is full and need to be regenerated? That is why you need to remove it all together or hollow it out.
Hollowing out would be ideal at this time so you get your truck working right.
If I was in this situation, I would hollow out DPF first before doing any more tune updates. At this point you do not have all ducks in a row for stage 2 delete.
Maybe start at that? Don't spend more money, just take DPF off, break through the media to have a straight hole and start over again. I guess it is possible truck is reading some sort of exhaust back pressure....
I understand what you are saying. I was warned that I should’ve got it regenned prior to the tune. Tomorrow, I’ll take off the DPF and see what I can do. Any tips on clearing it out? I’m just glad he’s cool with trying to help me. It’s highly stressful but it is what it is.
 

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Yes, even just the willingness of the person who did the tune is commendable.
Find DPF under the Jeep, soak every single bolt with PB Blaster Today, before you start taking everything apart. Will save you time if you do it now....
I have not hollowed this system out, I believe someone has done it here before.
You take the DPF out, grab a crowbar or some other long piece of metal and break through the media, creating a passage for exhaust. Search this forum, I even remember seeing some pictures of that process.
 

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DPF is the canister that has no hoses connected to it, I think it's closer to the turbo. SCR you can leave intact for now, SCR has injector tubing etc. going into the front of it. That can stay for now.
Mine is just a straight pipe now...
 

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UPDATE! Plugged in ECU - disconnected EGR (just the red clip directly into the EGR, not the blue clip with the wire to the prod sticking out). It started right up. Check Engine Light was cleared. No more message about DPF being 100% full - must see dealer. No limp mode.
Only message displayed was “Exhaust filter nearing full Safely Drive at highway speeds to remedy” and I’m currently texting the tuner now.
Wait, so did you have the 100% full message BEFORE changing the ECM? If so that's a big no-no even if you are deleting. Apparently there is some sort of trigger, that gets set even if the DPF is disabled. Most tuners will warn you about this. If this is occurring, then you need to get AlfaOBD and do a forced regen.
 

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This is why you don't trust your truck to unknown tuners.

The seller's customer service sounds top-notch though, hopefully he can get it figured out.
 

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DPF is hard work to hollow out , curved tubes at both ends don't allow you to run a rod thru it and destroy
the insides . ithas to be opened like a clam and welded back together.
easier to order a pipe from TS .
2 options , get the one that bolts right on the Turbo ( $500 ), not the other one that keeps the downpipe in the recipe ( $360 ).
again this is for RAM , make sure you get the Jeep version
87297

87294

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87296
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Wait, so did you have the 100% full message BEFORE changing the ECM? If so that's a big no-no even if you are deleting. Apparently there is some sort of trigger, that gets set even if the DPF is disabled. Most tuners will warn you about this. If this is occurring, then you need to get AlfaOBD and do a forced regen.
Yeah I had read something about that - how you shouldn’t/can’t do a delete with the 100% full message. When I tried AlfaOBD, it wouldn’t do it. Essentially, I’d clear the code, enable the regen, restart truck and force regen. Right when the truck turned on, it would immediately give me the 100% code.
 
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