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I don’t think oil coolers are flow directional…
fluid to fluid cooler are directional, the hot fluid to be cooled(oil in this case) enters the cooler where the hotest coolant is leaving the cooler. The same applies air to fluid coolers also. The old rule of thumb hot in at the top no longer applies unless it's a condensing type coil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
That 74deg oil temp has me wondering whether the oil cooler hoses have suffered an internal breakdown and are restricting flow Dealer replaced the cooler but not hoses. I don’t think oil coolers are flow directional…
The only rubber hose going to the oil cooler, that I know if, is the small rubber hose immediately exiting the oil cooler off the side of the block, and that was recently replaced. I still think that it's coolant related, because if you go WOT with the oil temp around 235 F, then the coolant will shoot to max, with the oil staying around 235-240 F if you do not further drive the vehicle. If you continue to drive it, THAT'S when the oil will rise to the 270's and then enter into a limp/overheat mode. Otherwise, you can park, turn off the engine and let it cool for 5-10 minutes - the oil will cool down (i.e. 215-220 F), but the coolant will remain high - when you turn back on the engine, the coolant will creep right back up to max, and the oil will continue to rise (no circulation indicated by no heat out the vents). Only until I am able to cool it down enough to remove the expansion tank cap, is when I can get it to start circulating and cool down to drive within a minute as if nothing happened.
 

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Hoss7 .... Are you Tuned? A semi plugged up exhaust system WILL make an Engine Run Hot ....
And a clogged air filter or some type of air restriction will make an Engine run hot ....

A dpf will mask many of symptoms, and if clogged it causes engines to over heat....

I believe Everything I mentioned should throw a code , Maybe not if some type of deletion? ..
 

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Have you tried running (testing) it without a thermostat, maybe a problem with the new one (possibly installed the wrong way)
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
I think that I found the problem.

My head kept going back to the fact that all symptoms point to air in the system, so I wanted to revisit the idea of a warped head after having the idea of checking for combustion gasses in the coolant while running a DPF regeneration cycle. I brought the engine to full operating temperature, pulled out the UView Combustion Leak Tester and started a DPF regen cycle to get the engine under load and to generate heat, something that I've never done before (I've only tried the tester with the engine at idle, or while revving the engine in neutral). THERE WAS A DEFINITE CHANGE IN COLOR! I took a video of the process and provided a before/after photo below.

There's no reason for combustion gasses to ever be present in the cooling system during a DPF regen cycle in a healthy engine, correct?!

Photograph White Light Product Green
 

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2014 Ram 1500 Ecodiesel, GDE Hot Tune, Rebel front end conversion.
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Shoot. Definitely shouldn’t be any combustion gasses in the cooling system. On my ram eco engine I also suspect had a head or head gasket issue.
 

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There's no reason for combustion gasses to ever be present in the cooling system during a DPF regen cycle in a healthy engine, correct?!
It's looking like it's not an elevated pressure that causing the issue as the boost pressure is lowered during regen. The EGT temps go up considerably during regen and hard acceleration though.
 

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During regen on most engines egr is disabled and charge air is restricted via the throttle body looking thing to build more heat and pressure in cylinder. It makes a forced regen a good test to do without a dyno for troubleshooting.
 
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