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Discussion Starter #1
Well gents, I've encountered my first Check-Engine light on my new-to-me 2015 Ram EcoDiesel. The truck has almost 156k miles on it, and I knew it was about time for this issue to arise. I forgot exactly what the code said, but essentially "DPF Regen frequency too high" was the message.

Having just recently driven a 6cyl ram of almost the same year and setup, I was amazed how much slower and more sluggish my EcoD felt. Around town, I was getting around 18-19mpg, and felt I could do better. I bought it for long highway use, but am finding that I'm using it around town more often than not. I know how bad it is for the DPF, so this probably won't be the first or last time I do this.

I believe the going rate for a new DPF is upwards of $2-3k, so I am going to attempt to clean it out myself. I've seen numerous videos of guys doing it themselves, and claiming good success. Here is a video I will be emulating:

There are a few other videos by the same YouTuber, so it seems this method works. Now I know our DPFs are burried in a metal casing that's integrated with a lot of piping, so I will be cutting it out. Once I cut it out, I plan to blast it with a pressure washer, then 150psi air, then again with pressure washer, then again air until I can't get any more gunk out. I don't currently have a welder, but know how to use them. If I can't get my hands on one, I will just pay a muffler shop to weld the pipes back on. Should cost less than $80.

Pics and maybe a video to follow.
 

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Sorry Buddy , No-Go ....
good info from B-g-K on the subject ,
..
a little reading on that , start at post#14 in here :
https://www.ram1500diesel.com/forum/ram-1500-diesel-mechanical/49898-2016-losing-coolant.html#post752842
..
go to at least , post #32 , and decide if you want to attempt to clean this " non-canister " type of DPF . not like the Cummins DPF.
..
If you decide to do it , we will all be interested to see , maybe waxy coolant deposit added to soot from a bad EGR cooler
plugged it , and regen can't clean that mess , let us know of your experiment .
..
Of course if it doesn't work , it would be less expensive to gut it , re-weld it and get the GDE OFF ROAD tune , if
you don't have emission test where you live .
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Sorry Buddy , No-Go ....
good info from B-g-K on the subject ,
..
a little reading on that , start at post#14 in here :
https://www.ram1500diesel.com/forum/ram-1500-diesel-mechanical/49898-2016-losing-coolant.html#post752842
..
go to at least , post #30 , and decide if you want to attempt to clean this " non-canister " type of DPF . not like the Cummins DPF.
..
If you decide to do it , we will all be interested to see , maybe waxy coolant deposit added to soot from a bad EGR cooler
plugged it , and regen can't clean that mess , let us know of your experiment .
..
Of course if it doesn't work , it would be less expensive to gut it , re-weld it and get the GDE OFF ROAD tune , if
you don't have emission test where you live .
Yep, it's just like my TDI Jetta. What I plan to do is use a cut-off wheel to carefully cut the dpf out, leaving it in its steel shell, much like the canister type DPFs, then weld it back together once clean. I believe there will even be weld marks to guide me. I've seen something like this done on a BMW dpf on another YouTube video, but that guy went one step further and completely cut the DPF out of the steel canister. I don't want to do that, just cut the pipes off either end to expose the front and back of the honeycomb. I don't plan to use any chemicals or anything, and I don't think I'll need to bake it as I'll be using high pressure water and air to physically remove all the ash and soot.

One thing I wonder about is whether I need to reset computer's DPF level. I know these computers keep track of what % full the filters are, and I'm not sure if they go by miles, hours at certain torque demand or what. Will they automatically realize that the DPF is free-flowing again, or not? I hooked it up to my code-scanner after warming it up and saw that the differential pressure across the DPF at idle was 0 psi and went up to about 1psi at 2800rpm (revving in P). Maybe it's more when I'm actually driving. Before I clean the DPF, I want to develop some sort of flow meter to test the before and after flor-rates of the filter.

I do want the GDE tune, but I want to keep my DPF and DEF systems intact. I do want to cancel the EGR though, as that's really detrimental to these motors and is dirtier for the environment in the long-run. I love that these engines don't pollute as much as the old diesels, and am thus-far dedicated to keeping the emissions systems healthy and working.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Here's a good video of what I plan to do. I wonder what detergent this guy used and if it's safe on all DPFs... Thinking about it, I can't imagine that any detergent would harm the DPF, as it's just metals. Nothing should bind to the surface, right?

 

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Would it be possible to do something similar and just not cut it open? Are there parts you cant submerge or drench in a cleaner and then flush out just through the tail pipe openings?
 

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Would it be possible to do something similar and just not cut it open? Are there parts you cant submerge or drench in a cleaner and then flush out just through the tail pipe openings?
I think in this case the complicating factor w the ed is the that the DOC is right up against the dpf. Anything you try and backflush may end up getting stuck in the doc. Also i dont know how tolerant the doc will be to high pressure water or solvents.

Most of the vids u see online of commercial diesels getti g their dpf cleand is a dpf only cartridge (i think.. Pls correct me if mistaken).

I think the only possible solution is to cut open the doc/dpf remove and clean dpf material and reinstall and weld shut.
 

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Yep, it's just like my TDI Jetta. What I plan to do is use a cut-off wheel to carefully cut the dpf out, leaving it in its steel shell, much like the canister type DPFs, then weld it back together once clean. I believe there will even be weld marks to guide me. I've seen something like this done on a BMW dpf on another YouTube video, but that guy went one step further and completely cut the DPF out of the steel canister. I don't want to do that, just cut the pipes off either end to expose the front and back of the honeycomb. I don't plan to use any chemicals or anything, and I don't think I'll need to bake it as I'll be using high pressure water and air to physically remove all the ash and soot.

One thing I wonder about is whether I need to reset computer's DPF level. I know these computers keep track of what % full the filters are, and I'm not sure if they go by miles, hours at certain torque demand or what. Will they automatically realize that the DPF is free-flowing again, or not? I hooked it up to my code-scanner after warming it up and saw that the differential pressure across the DPF at idle was 0 psi and went up to about 1psi at 2800rpm (revving in P). Maybe it's more when I'm actually driving. Before I clean the DPF, I want to develop some sort of flow meter to test the before and after flor-rates of the filter.

I do want the GDE tune, but I want to keep my DPF and DEF systems intact. I do want to cancel the EGR though, as that's really detrimental to these motors and is dirtier for the environment in the long-run. I love that these engines don't pollute as much as the old diesels, and am thus-far dedicated to keeping the emissions systems healthy and working.
Pressure drop will be much greater when the engine is actually producing hp of significance since the fuel burned and resultant exhaust flow will be much higher. When driving your instantaneous mpg is a decent proxy for the relative exhaust flow.
 

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Well gents, I've encountered my first Check-Engine light on my new-to-me 2015 Ram EcoDiesel. The truck has almost 156k miles on it, and I knew it was about time for this issue to arise. I forgot exactly what the code said, but essentially "DPF Regen frequency too high" was the message.

Having just recently driven a 6cyl ram of almost the same year and setup, I was amazed how much slower and more sluggish my EcoD felt. Around town, I was getting around 18-19mpg, and felt I could do better. I bought it for long highway use, but am finding that I'm using it around town more often than not. I know how bad it is for the DPF, so this probably won't be the first or last time I do this.

I believe the going rate for a new DPF is upwards of $2-3k, so I am going to attempt to clean it out myself. I've seen numerous videos of guys doing it themselves, and claiming good success. Here is a video I will be emulating:

There are a few other videos by the same YouTuber, so it seems this method works. Now I know our DPFs are burried in a metal casing that's integrated with a lot of piping, so I will be cutting it out. Once I cut it out, I plan to blast it with a pressure washer, then 150psi air, then again with pressure washer, then again air until I can't get any more gunk out. I don't currently have a welder, but know how to use them. If I can't get my hands on one, I will just pay a muffler shop to weld the pipes back on. Should cost less than $80.

Pics and maybe a video to follow.
The actual code would be helpful before you attempt to clean the DPF. Your issue could be as simple as a bad sensor. There are plenty of high mileage Ecodiesels with original DPF's
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I think in this case the complicating factor w the ed is the that the DOC is right up against the dpf. Anything you try and backflush may end up getting stuck in the doc. Also i dont know how tolerant the doc will be to high pressure water or solvents.

Most of the vids u see online of commercial diesels getti g their dpf cleand is a dpf only cartridge (i think.. Pls correct me if mistaken).

I think the only possible solution is to cut open the doc/dpf remove and clean dpf material and reinstall and weld shut.
Man thank you so much for mentioning that! This is half the reason I wrote this post, to have awesome input like this. I really had no idea. In fact, I was wondering why it was so long in the pictures. I'm guessing the DOC (Diesel Oxidative Catalyst right?) is just in front of the DPF, right? I see a sensor port in the middle of the DPF shell, would it be a good assumption that cutting just behind that port would expose my DPF? I definitely don't want to mess with the DOC, or flush all that ash on it. It would probably trap most of that gunk. DPF.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I rode around today with my scan tool plugged in and recorded some interesting data. The code I got just said "Deisel Particulate Filter Regeneration Frequency". I cleared it and it didn't come back in the 50 or so mile commute I undertook. Warmed up, the DPF Flow Resistance was .165 hPa/m^3/hr at idle, .19 driving around town and about .20 on the highway. Also, the soot level was 42%, but I'm not sure if that's reading at the DPF or what. The truck does feel sluggish, and seems like it has considerable turbo lag. I really have to mash the pedal to get it moving off a red light.

Anyone know what these numbers should be on a fresher truck?
 

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Attempting to clean the DPF is a ton of work for not much reward. So much easier and often cheaper to go with the GDE Hot Tune with Offroad option and a delete exhaust pipe. The truck will run so much better and cleaner.

If you cut it open and weld it back shut, I hope you do a lot better than the MIG booger welds in that last video. Your welding will have to be spot-on due to the heating cycles it experiences.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I don't want to get rid of the DPF or anything other than EGR, but I'm too short on cash at the moment to drop that much coin on the GDE Hot Tune right now. We're in the throws of a huge home renovation and money is a bit tight. Not to mention, we just had to shell out $1k for repairs to my wife's Mini.

My welding will be good if I can get my hands on a tig machine, or a decent mig gun. I will not use anything but gas shielded welding. If I can't find one, I'll take it to a muffler shop and pressure test it to make sure the seal holds. Among other things, I built a complex shaped marine fuel tank from a sheet of aluminum for my little jet boat. I still drive that boat today, so I'm not too concerned with my welding skills, especially with steel. Just need to find someone that can give me a half hour's worth of weld time.

I do think there's some reward to cleaning this thing. I know on the TDI Jettas, the DPF was only rated for about 120k miles. This truck has a larger engine, and while the DPF is also larger, I doubt it's designed for much more than 150k miles. In any case, I'm going to be under there changing ATF and cleaning the DEF injector with my steam gun soon, and was going to drop the DPF in the process. A clogged DPF will result in higher upstream pressure and especially temperature, which will hurt the turbo. That's another few thousand that I don't want to spend. I believe a little preventative maintenance can go a long way to make life easier in the future. It might also give me a few more MPG for not much $$.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
When the Regen is going on, does the truck tell you? I have and SLT with the fancier gauges but I've never seen any message that it's happening. I also don't get the drive letters on my dash like I've seen on some of the higher trims. Is there a way to unlock this additional information?
 

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When the Regen is going on, does the truck tell you? I have and SLT with the fancier gauges but I've never seen any message that it's happening. I also don't get the drive letters on my dash like I've seen on some of the higher trims. Is there a way to unlock this additional information?
There is no regen message in stock form and the factory tune will indicate the percentage only if several failed attempts and the DPF soot level reaches a critical level. If you do not get a notice than the regens are being completed successfully.
 

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A delete would be your best option. If you don’t want the benefits associated with that and feel like you need to keep the DPF, your best option might be to post a want ad for a dpf. Lots of deletes running around out there that would probably be willing to cut u a deal on a used dpf that’s just laying around


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anyone have a link to a thread that talks about the " DOC " ??
I have been reading at least an hour a day on the site for the last 2 1/2 years , I learned a lot ,
but the " DOC " I know nothing about , :confused:
what does it do ?? when does it do it ??
 

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