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Tried to upload a video, but doesn't seem to work. I don't have a host website to upload and link.
I would recommend starting a YouTube channel. It seems complicated at first, but once you figure it out, it's actually fairly easy to upload videos.
 

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Discussion Starter · #183 ·
I took the truck out for a break-in run heading up 80 into the Sierra Nevada mountains. I had a full bed of freshly split oak(guessing about 800-1000 lbs). It was a 90 mile round trip with lots of long hills.

Weather conditions, and how the truck behaved on the trip:
  • Weather- clear and sunny. Outside Temp 71-84 Degrees (cooler in the mtns)
  • Engine Temp: 204-224 Degrees
  • Oil Temp: 212-230 Degrees
  • Truck speed: 60-85 MPH
  • RPM: 2,000- 3,400 (mostly between 2,200 and 2,600)
  • No codes except one warning for vacuum pump intermittent performance (grommet on the brake booster failed)

My impressions:
  1. Even with none of the sound deadeners on the engine, it is much quieter at idle than my other engines. I attribute this to having the entire reciprocating assembly static balanced
  2. At speed there is a much more pronounced diesel "ping". I am not 100% sure, but I think that the slightly different combustion chamber configuration (valve reliefs, smaller bowl and 0.010" shaved off block) is causing a slightly different flame propagation, and a little extra "ping". Not sure if this is going to create problems in the future
  3. Power is comparable to other engines with VM Motori pistons.
  4. Overall, I'm very happy with the result

As an aside, I completely forgot that I have a YouTube account already. I've posted the video of the truck idling here. The hissing sound is the failed brake booster grommet.
 

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@67_Valiant, in your opinion, when should an EcoDiesel owner consider replacing the crankshaft vibration damper? Is that a part that's good for 200,000 miles or would you replace it sooner? I've got 108,000 miles on my 2015 EcoDiesel and I'm about to replace the belt, tensioner, and idler pulleys. I was wondering if I should replace the crankshaft vibration damper, too. Thoughts?

 
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2015 RAM 1500 EcoDiesel Bighorn 4x4
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Someday you should post a spec sheet of your build!
 
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Discussion Starter · #186 ·
@67_Valiant, in your opinion, when should an EcoDiesel owner consider replacing the crankshaft vibration damper? Is that a part that's good for 200,000 miles or would you replace it sooner? I've got 108,000 miles on my 2015 EcoDiesel and I'm about to replace the belt, tensioner, and idler pulleys. I was wondering if I should replace the crankshaft vibration damper, too. Thoughts?

I don't know that it's necessary to replace it unless it is coming apart. It might be worth having it inspected and balanced, though. With all the engines I've built, I noticed a slight wobble at around 1100-1200 rpm except the most recent one where everything is balanced.
 

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@67_Valiant
This has your typical excellent details, congrats on the build I've been following this closely. It will be interesting to see what additional information you might share such as reads on mpg ratings, loaded and unloaded etc will you be putting this on a dyno? Great information as usual well done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #188 ·
Someday you should post a spec sheet of your build!
Here are some of the key elements:

Engine Baseline:

  • VM Motori 3.0L Diesel​

Parts:
  • 87-427407-00 Nural pistons 83.5 mm pistons(Cylinders 1-3)
  • 87-427407-10 Nural pistons 83.5 mm pistons(Cylinders 4-6)
  • Goetze LKZ 08-427407-00 Rings (0.5 mm oversized)
  • All other parts (crankshaft, rods, heads, etc.) were original to engine
  • Re-used connecting rod, head and main bolts

Machine work:
  • Re-size rod small end to fit piston pin (Mercedes pin is about 0.001" bigger)
  • Mill piston pin lands so connecting rod fits into piston
  • Mill pockets for valve reliefs (decided this was not necessary)
  • Target piston weight with pin, clips and rings: 846 grams
  • Deck block 0.25mm (0.010”)
  • Bore Cylinder 0.5mm over (0.0196”). Piston to wall clearance 0.41 ±0.013 mm (0.0016 ±0.0005 in) per Nural spec.
  • Balance rotating assembly
Measurements:

Product Rectangle Font Pattern Circle


Font Number Parallel Pattern Screenshot

I did not check anything else because I had previously checked prior to tearing this motor down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #189 ·
@67_Valiant
This has your typical excellent details, congrats on the build I've been following this closely. It will be interesting to see what additional information you might share such as reads on mpg ratings, loaded and unloaded etc will you be putting this on a dyno? Great information as usual well done.
On the brief break-in runs I've taken, the truck got about 18 mpg, but that was in hilly terrain with a load of firewood in tow/haul mode. I'm planning to take longer trip with an empty bed next week, so I expect it to go higher than that. This truck was only getting about 23 mpg highway before, and I think it's due to having bigger Nitto's on it. I probably won't put it on the dyno just trying to keep the costs in line, but we'll see...
 

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Discussion Starter · #190 ·
Well, I've had a setback. With about 200 miles on the experimental engine, today it started making some top end noise. It appears to be coming from the #3 cylinder. It doesn't sound good, so rather than take chances, I'm going to have to pull the engine back out and tear it down. It's going to be a while before I can do this, but I will report back once I'm on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #192 ·
I started digging into the experimental motor last weekend. Pulled the heads off, and there was absolutely no valve to piston contact, or any other indications of damage anywhere.

With this knowledge, I have an idea what the problem might be.. When I got the parts back from the machine shop, I noticed that one of the rods was fitting tighter than the others on the pin. I did not want the rod to seize, but I also did not want to wait another month for the machine shop to fix it, so I got some mild abrasive and "honed" the pin out until it felt the same as the others.

Although I thoroughly cleaned everything, it is possible that either some grit was left on the rod bushing or I took too much out. I'm going to tear into the bottom end of the engine this week to find out for sure.
 

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Man, was sure hoping it was something simple on the top end, but you got a handle on it and I'm sure you'll be back up and truckin in no time ;) (y)

by the time this is done you're gonna be some kind of expert on these little motors :oops: (y);)😂😂
 

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Discussion Starter · #194 ·
Man, was sure hoping it was something simple on the top end, but you got a handle on it and I'm sure you'll be back up and truckin in no time ;) (y)

by the time this is done you're gonna be some kind of expert on these little motors :oops: (y);)😂😂
Yes indeed LOL! Some learning from the school of hard knocks (pun intended), but I definitely feel like I'm getting a handle on some of the challenges with rebuilding these engines.
 

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67_Valiant, You’ve learned Not only what it takes to rebuild one of these but also what the factory has to do correctly to make them last to begin with!
 

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Discussion Starter · #196 ·
I can't find the "sheepishly hanging my head in shame" emoji, so I'll just come out with it. I found latex glove fragments completely occluding the oil pickup screen! I feel like the surgeon who lost the surgical instrument in the patient LOL.

I bought cheaper gloves this time, and i suspect one got hung up on something while I was assembling engine and tore (they often tear, sometimes without my noticing). Anyway, now I will need to also disassemble the oil pump to see what got in it. The noise started toward the end of my last break-in run, so I'm hoping I shut it down quickly enough to save the bearings..... and I'm really glad I pulled it apart when I did!
 

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67-Valiant I have bean following your engine rebuilds. sorry to hear about your setback but it looked good before this happend.I lost GC engine at 40k , spun main bearing . After rebuilt it has done 7k , keeping my fingers crossed. My question is about the bearing brand you got from summit the bage is simmilar to kings but different,are they any good ? Will it be possible to fit a wider main bearing ( I do not know the journal with) have been doing some research and toyota V8 1vd ftr have simmilar dimensions but wider main bearings. 5/8 on ecodiesel and 3/4 on 1vd thickness the same 1.989mm thankyou and good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #199 ·
67-Valiant I have bean following your engine rebuilds. sorry to hear about your setback but it looked good before this happend.I lost GC engine at 40k , spun main bearing . After rebuilt it has done 7k , keeping my fingers crossed. My question is about the bearing brand you got from summit the bage is simmilar to kings but different,are they any good ? Will it be possible to fit a wider main bearing ( I do not know the journal with) have been doing some research and toyota V8 1vd ftr have simmilar dimensions but wider main bearings. 5/8 on ecodiesel and 3/4 on 1vd thickness the same 1.989mm thankyou and good luck.
The Summit bearings were King branded- I hadn't looked in a while and didn't realize they had added others. Definitely worth a try! The journals are pretty tight. I don't know if you could fit one that size in, but we have to get creative I guess LOL.

Did you have any issues with oil leaks on your rebuilt? That has been a big problem for me- mostly between the upper pan and bedplate.
 

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It worried me that the bedplate was sealed with silicon and there were only two small dowelpins holding it from sliding when bolds are tigtened.I drilled 8 of the outer main bolts bigger and incerted pipe like dowels two on each main bearing . I then used loctite 505 flange sealer . No leaks so far but 505 or 518 is used on most modern tractor flange like sump applications. I had trouble with silicon it seams to leak after a while. Back to the bearings if I may . The bearings I bought on the net had the same logo but were not packed in a box like kings normally do. The logo was very simmilar but not exactly the same. worry me because kings had none available at that stage. What ever they are hope they are good . My engine seized at high load high revs ,spun main bearing , only explenation I have is that bearing clearance was to small and the oil film to thin. What do you think ?
 
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