[Jinx]

Rod Bearings

Part Number: CR6900SV

I received the rod bearings from Summit this past week. They look identical to the factory units.
View attachment 88886 View attachment 88885
When installed, the clearances came out as follows:

Cylinder Rod	Clearance
#1	0.0015"
#2	0.0020"
#3	0.0020"-0.0025"
#4	0.0020"
#5	0.0020"
#6	0.0020"

Here are the factory specifications for the rods:
View attachment 88883
View attachment 88884

Following the rule of thumb of 0.001" clearance per inch of journal diameter, I should be targeting ~0.0027" +/-, so most of my tolerances are on the tight side. Hopefully, the 5W/30 will still work OK.

T6 5W-40 is the oil you want, the old mains looked like they were starting to wipe out likely from thin oil.

 

[67_Valiant]

T6 5W-40 is the oil you want, the old mains looked like they were starting to wipe out likely from thin oil.

Thanks- i meant 5W-40. The post has been updated.

 

[oldccminmate]

Whoever owned my truck previously must have panicked during the fire, and cut all the positive battery cables at the battery terminal (there are 7 total cables on this one junction!):


View attachment 88890

Fire department will cut the battery terminals during overhaul


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[67_Valiant]

Fire department will cut the battery terminals during overhaul


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Interesting. My first truck was also an engine fire, but the cables weren't cut. The fire damage wasn't as bad though, so maybe they didn't think it was necessary.

 

[biodiesel]

67_Valiant, what is your timeline for this engine build?

 

[67_Valiant]

67_Valiant, what is your timeline for this engine build?

I'll be cleaning and honing the block this weekend. I'm still waiting on all the block hardware and other parts (bed plate bolts, head gaskets, head bolts, etc.) before I can start re-assembling. As soon as I get this stuff (hopefully next week), I should be able to have it back together within a week or 2. After that, probably a week to get the engine back in and hooked up.

Bottom line, I'm guessing about 3-4 weeks before I have it back in and running.

 

[biodiesel]

Bottom line, I'm guessing about 3-4 weeks before I have it back in and running.

Wow, that's impressive! I'm looking forward to learning.

 

[67_Valiant]

Wow, that's impressive! I'm looking forward to learning.

It's been fun, but I have to admit that I'm making a LOT of assumptions which makes me a bit uneasy. I don't mind being the guinea pig though LOL

 

[67_Valiant]

Piston Rings
Manufacturer: Hastings
Part Number: 2M7382

Let me just start off by saying that these parts can now be found in several places. I got mine from Summit Racing. There may also be oversizes available, but was able to get away without boring my engine, so I didn't pursue it any further.

One thing that jumped off the page when I first looked at the box label was this:

I've been speculating for a while now that there are other applications with parts that will work on the ecodiesel engine. I already know that the Sprinter 3.0 engine has close to (if not the same) piston and rings. It looks like the Mercedes 2.0L diesel also uses the same rings. All this increases the options for rebuilding these engines, and the pool of available aftermarket parts. Hopefully others will add their findings as well.

The Hastings rings are all cast iron with a Moly coating on the top ring, phosphate on the middle ring, and chrome on the oil ring. One important difference I noticed was that the factory top and middle rings appeared to be rectangular, or possibly half-keystone, whereas the Hasting rings are both internally beveled. I tried to take a couple pictures to show the difference, but couldn't get the camera to focus. Factory specifications for end gap are:

This seemed pretty tight to me (especially the oil ring). Once again, outside the factory spec, I could not find any other end gap specifications for this engine.

I finally called Hastings, and they gave me a spec of 0.25 mm to 0.50 mm (~0.098"- 0.020") gap on all the rings. Additionally, I found several articles stating that the 2nd ring should be at least 1.25 times larger than the top ring for oil management reasons, so that was my starting point. After measuring the rings in my engine on all cylinders, I found the following range of end gaps:

Top Ring: 0.013"-0.014"
Middle Ring: 0.017"-0.020"
Bottom (Oil) Ring: 0.010"-0.012"

This fits pretty nicely into the range specified by Hastings, and is close to the 1.25:1 ratio middle to top, so I am not going to overbore this engine.

___

3/01- Quick Update
I installed the rings on the pistons last night, and started to put the piston/rod assemblies into the engine. The oil rings caused me a bit of a problem. For the first piston I installed, I used an older style ring compressor, and ended up trapping the oil ring in-between the tool and the block, damaging the ring.

The spring sits so far out from the piston, and has no dimensional stability, so it is easily trapped outside the ring land (especially at the end gap). Because the old-style ring compressor completely surrounds the piston, I was unable to see that the oil ring was stuck outside the piston. This is the older style I'm talking about:

To solve this, I started using my newer ring compressor:

There is a small gap near the handle when it is installed, so by positioning the oil ring gap in that opening, I can confirm that it is not hung up, and is fully compressed. I was actually able to catch the problem a couple times with this tool while installing the other pistons. It's a little hard to see, but here is what the gap looks like when properly compressed (circled in blue):

I was able to install the rest of the pistons successfully, but I had to order one extra set of rings before I can finish this part.

 

[67_Valiant]

Engine Block:

Just a few notes on the engine block. I did the following to it (in order):

1) Power washed
2) Blew out all passages with compressed air
3) Painted with High-Temp black paint
4) Removed Oil sprayers
5) Chased all threads with bottom tap
6) Honed cylinders with 180 grit, then 360 grit
7) Washed each cylinder down with hot, soapy water
8) Rinsed entire engine with clean water
9) Blew out all passages and threads with compressed air
10) Wiped cylinders down with WD40

I also cleaned up the bedplate. After all this, here's what they looked like (disregard the incorrect numbering on the cylinders- I think I have that sorted out now):

Here are the flexhones I used (180/360 grit):

 

[oldccminmate]

Interesting. My first truck was also an engine fire, but the cables weren't cut. The fire damage wasn't as bad though, so maybe they didn't think it was necessary.

It’s all discretion. Cut the terminals for a mvc is a given, so most guys do it for fires too.


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