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More on this, but after weeks of -5 C to -30 C weather, my Ecodiesel suddenly would not turn over. Got it towed in to the dealer and they said that the engine needs to be replaced. More details to come on the cause as I learn more. The issue apparently is that the cold weather cover for the grill must be installed and anytime the temp dips below 0 C, the truck must be plugged in?? Crazy. The engine will be replaced under warranty (this one time). Has anyone heard of anything like this?? I've had diesels in the past and cold weather starting can be an issue but nothing like this.
 

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More on this, but after weeks of -5 C to -30 C weather, my Ecodiesel suddenly would not turn over. Got it towed in to the dealer and they said that the engine needs to be replaced. More details to come on the cause as I learn more. The issue apparently is that the cold weather cover for the grill must be installed and anytime the temp dips below 0 C, the truck must be plugged in?? Crazy. The engine will be replaced under warranty (this one time). Has anyone heard of anything like this?? I've had diesels in the past and cold weather starting can be an issue but nothing like this.
Read your owner's manual and see what it says. You might find it informative. Furthermore it might prevent you from having future surprises you have never heard of before.
 

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More on this, but after weeks of -5 C to -30 C weather, my Ecodiesel suddenly would not turn over. Got it towed in to the dealer and they said that the engine needs to be replaced. More details to come on the cause as I learn more. The issue apparently is that the cold weather cover for the grill must be installed and anytime the temp dips below 0 C, the truck must be plugged in?? Crazy. The engine will be replaced under warranty (this one time). Has anyone heard of anything like this?? I've had diesels in the past and cold weather starting can be an issue but nothing like this.
from the manual......"A winter front or cold weather cover is to be used in ambient temperatures below 32°F (0°C), especially dur ing extended idle conditions to reduce condensation build-up within engine crankcase. If a winter front or cold weather cover is to be used, a percentage of the total grille opening area must be left uncovered to provide sufficient air flow to the charge air cooler and automatic
transmission oil cooler. The percentage of opening must be increased with the increasing ambient air temperature and/or engine load. If the cooling fan can be heard cycling frequently, increase the size of the opening in the winter front. A suitable cold weather cover is available from your MOPAR dealer.
 

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Sounds fishy to me there is something missing here. How does an engine that just starts not turning over because its cold outside need to be replaced? Personally I think it is being misdiagnosed or they have been driving it with a bigger issue for a while.
 

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More on this, but after weeks of -5 C to -30 C weather, my Ecodiesel suddenly would not turn over. Got it towed in to the dealer and they said that the engine needs to be replaced. More details to come on the cause as I learn more. The issue apparently is that the cold weather cover for the grill must be installed and anytime the temp dips below 0 C, the truck must be plugged in?? Crazy. The engine will be replaced under warranty (this one time). Has anyone heard of anything like this?? I've had diesels in the past and cold weather starting can be an issue but nothing like this.
I have posted this numerous times on this Forum, well the winter cover part anyway. No manufacture can require that you plug your truck in as you may not have access to an electrical outlet. My truck sits outside all the time and never gets plugged in and until I got bad fuel at Costco it always started right up. Now that I have a new battery and have been adding 911 to my fuel I haven't had any more issues.

I think FCA/Ram would have a hard time winning a case in court since they do not provide the cover with the truck. It is an option in the "Cold Weather Group" that includes the block heater cord and front winter cover.
 

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As a proud new owner and user of a 'winter front' for my ecodiesel, I would argue that this should be standard equipment on all ecodiesels. It is a game-changer. I was completely skeptical and I grew up with heavy duty diesel trucks. I am in northern, Lower Peninsula of Michigan. We have seen -20 degrees (F) at times between here and the Upper Peninsula. I drove my truck almost to Marquette pulling a trailer (without the winter front) in single digit temps. The truck did not have a problem getting there, but apparently those conditions are perfect for creating condensation in the intake/turbo and in my case, it sat for two days and nights. When I remote started it at -12 degrees (F), it did start, but it was smelling bad. The truck actually shut itself down after only 8-10 minutes while I was clearing about 8" of fresh snow off of it. No codes showed up when I started it about 5 minutes later and I was ready to go. But when I got to the end of the long winding drive and got in to the throttle to get out on the road, it threw a Service Electronic Throttle Control message and Check Engine Light. It went into derated/limp mode.

What I did not know at the time is that it was an 'underboost' code that was detected and put the truck into the limp mode. It did not strand me, though. I was able to baby it the 250 miles home, pulling my trailer. The code did not clear itself on that trip home and 2.5 hours of driving like that then caused the Exhaust Filter 100% Full - Dealer Service Required code/message. This had to be cleared by a forced regen through the dealer, even long after the underboost was cleared on its own the next day. I have a heated garage at home, so the underboost went away the next day.

Therefore, I reiterate that the winter front would be extremely important for any owners who will be operating in below freezing temps. The winter front I have only had on for a couple days and it works great to get the truck warm faster and hold the heat better during slower driving or even idling. The real benefit is that it allows for more thorough regens, which was my problem for almost 3 weeks during this ordeal.

Kanuk, sorry for your situation, they should have required that you use a winter front since you are based in Calgary.

Oh, and I have never plugged in my ED. I do not have the connector installed. With a cold start as low as -20, though not ideal for any engine, this truck is impressive to me. When I am home, it is not an issue.
 

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2021 Ram 2500 Tradesman Crew Cab 6.7 L Turbo Cummins 3.73
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I have posted this numerous times on this Forum, well the winter cover part anyway. No manufacture can require that you plug your truck in as you may not have access to an electrical outlet. My truck sits outside all the time and never gets plugged in and until I got bad fuel at Costco it always started right up. Now that I have a new battery and have been adding 911 to my fuel I haven't had any more issues.

I think FCA/Ram would have a hard time winning a case in court since they do not provide the cover with the truck. It is an option in the "Cold Weather Group" that includes the block heater cord and front winter cover.
In the manual for the diesel supplement on the block heater it says it's "recommended" at -10 F, and required below -20 F. Anything below zero is tough on any engine. I had a valve rocker arm stud pop out of a chevy head once at 15 below, so cold the metal shrinks enough, pop!

Why all the resistance to using the block heater? It's your truck though, do what you want.
 

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........... The truck did not have a problem getting there, but apparently those conditions are perfect for creating condensation in the intake/turbo and in my case, it sat for two days and nights. When I remote started it at -12 degrees (F), it did start, but it was smelling bad. The truck actually shut itself down after only 8-10 minutes while I was clearing about 8" of fresh snow off of it. No codes showed up when I started it about 5 minutes later and I was ready to go. But when I got to the end of the long winding drive and got in to the throttle to get out on the road, it threw a Service Electronic Throttle Control message and Check Engine Light. It went into derated/limp mode.

What I did not know at the time is that it was an 'underboost' code that was detected and put the truck into the limp mode. It did not strand me, though. I was able to baby it the 250 miles home, pulling my trailer. The code did not clear itself on that trip home and 2.5 hours of driving like that then caused the Exhaust Filter 100% Full - Dealer Service Required code/message. This had to be cleared by a forced regen through the dealer, even long after the underboost was cleared on its own the next day. I have a heated garage at home, so the underboost went away the next day.

Therefore, I reiterate that the winter front would be extremely important for any owners who will be operating in below freezing temps. The winter front I have only had on for a couple days and it works great to get the truck warm faster and hold the heat better during slower driving or even idling. The real benefit is that it allows for more thorough regens, which was my problem for almost 3 weeks during this ordeal.

Oh, and I have never plugged in my ED. I do not have the connector installed. With a cold start as low as -20, though not ideal for any engine, this truck is impressive to me. When I am home, it is not an issue.
the intercooler tubes in images will get clogged with condensation , no more flow of air to the intake,
correct me if I am wrong but you say you got to limp mode , the truck will never start a regen when you are in limp mode ,
so the part where you drove it 250 miles made soot % go to 100% , just normal because no-regen while in limp mode ,
the cover is nice for your comfort in the warmer cab ,just a side bonus ,it is even more important to keep arctic air from freezing those vulnerable tubes
around the front of the engine , ,,,,
the cord to plug the truck when it is not parked in a heated garage is not expensive when purchased on the net compared to the
dealer price , and a must in Canada , in the 90s I knew a guy who owned a excavation company with big machinery , if he could plug
the block heaters even at 50F , he would do it , this is a diesel engine , different beast , not gasoline engine .
------------------------------------------------
those big tubes carry air that has been heated going thru the turbo , to the Intercooler rad to send cooler air to the intake manifold ,,
reverse effect compared to a cold beer can in warm weather ,as warm air passing in 2 inch tube touches cold tube , it cannoct contain
humidity in that cold portion , humidity turns to droplets , droplets stick to tube and freeze there , the 2 inch tube becomes a 1 inch path
and eventually plugs completely , the fun has begun......winter front is to stop that , its primarely function , everything else is bonus.
..
If any of this , is wrong , tell me soon , so I can edit this post , and not be misleading ...:)
 

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I don't understand what the resistance is with folks not wanting to putting a winter front or plug a truck in. When I bought my ED the dealer (whom is awesome) told me I had to put the winter front on anytime below 32F. They had a lot of problems before the winter front came out.
Driving that truck home for 250 miles in limp mode.... I couldn't imagine doing that. And the Service Electronic Throttle Control is usually the message of death (P0299). Probably had so much diesel in the oil that it toasted the bearings. I am guessing that "suddenly would no longer turn over" is because the bearings finally got to the point where they seized.
 

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Yeah 7, this truck was used and tested by FCA in winter , summmer , computers and sensors all over the place ,
they established the tune to give no CEL witin certain temperature/pressure ranges , not using cover can take you out of the ranges
and the truck will throw a error message , I prefer to waste time reading and following the manual , than waste time on the side of
the road or at the dealer , just my personnal choice .
 

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I plug mine in when the temps are below 60 degrees F. Im sure the northerners laugh but it does make a big difference in how long the truck takes to warm up and my fuel mileage. I do not warm the truck up before I start driving. Idling is horrible for any engine no mater what. I plug mine in and when I start it on a 30-40 degree morning the water temp reads in the mid one hundred teens to 20's, I let it circulate fluids for 20-30 seconds and back out of my parking space and drive easy on the gas till water temp reaches 150+. Screw idling 10 minutes.
 

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Does the GDE high idle option help with any condensation anywhere by helping the engine warm up faster during idle?
 

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MAS , northerner here , and not laughing , you comment is the kind that moves you to
the column of "the members who's opinion I can trust ", but you were already in that column
since early 2016. exact same behavior , just have to baby it longer to reach 150F ,
... the block heater sure beats idling 10/15 minutes from frozen state.
 

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I have posted this numerous times on this Forum, well the winter cover part anyway. No manufacture can require that you plug your truck in as you may not have access to an electrical outlet. My truck sits outside all the time and never gets plugged in and until I got bad fuel at Costco it always started right up. Now that I have a new battery and have been adding 911 to my fuel I haven't had any more issues.

I think FCA/Ram would have a hard time winning a case in court since they do not provide the cover with the truck. It is an option in the "Cold Weather Group" that includes the block heater cord and front winter cover
the
I have to agree that if the winter front is required, it should have been included with the truck. same with the cord for the block heater. Living in North carloina, I hit a few days or weeks were the temp doesn't climb above freezing. Does that mean I should have the cover on?
 

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I plug mine in when the temps are below 60 degrees F. Im sure the northerners laugh but it does make a big difference in how long the truck takes to warm up and my fuel mileage. I do not warm the truck up before I start driving. Idling is horrible for any engine no mater what. I plug mine in and when I start it on a 30-40 degree morning the water temp reads in the mid one hundred teens to 20's, I let it circulate fluids for 20-30 seconds and back out of my parking space and drive easy on the gas till water temp reaches 150+. Screw idling 10 minutes.
This. 110%
 

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Does the GDE high idle option help with any condensation anywhere by helping the engine warm up faster during idle?
no. The issue has nothign to do with the engine being warm or not. The issue has to do with dew points and ambient humidity.

the issue occurs because your turbo compresses the air charge, and passes it through the intercooler. If your intercooler is TOO cold, the liquid moisture in the warm compressed air will freeze instantly upon contacting the Intercooler walls. ice builds up.

I am not quite sure about the OP issue though. I can't see crankcase ice being a problem since that has nothing to do with the winter front.
 
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