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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Guys , I have put together a revised version of the Sasquatch Instructions for deleting the EGR cooler .
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well it took me some time to figure out how to get Jpeg files turned into a PDF file but here it is .
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When doing stage 2 EGR cooler delete you have to go thru the Instructions from the Stage 1 first , so I combined them , 1 and 2 ..
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Also the touchy stuff , I used the Sasquatch Instructions , as a Starting point , I would not want to get them mad by putting info
from the competitor (CFT Performance ) into their Instructions , so I made another PDF file , the one called Preface , mixed overall info in there .
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If people at Sasquatch are not happy with this for any reason , let me know and I'll delete the Post .


from TheB2B : in here , EGR Delete Questions ,,post # 159
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"" Kazimodo since you have put together a list of steps and potential problems and how they where resolved how about a concise how to here for stage 2 removal? ""
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For some reason I cannot load the bigger PDF , Have to split it in 2 for size reasons , will be in next post .
 

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2019 Ram 2500 Cummins - EX Ecodiesel owner.
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Though I have minimal ability to tackle anything like this, I downloaded and read both files. Good to have in case you need to pass off a job like that on a local "shade tree" mechanic.

Thanks for the education.
 

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2016 Laramie Limited Crew Cab 4x4 with Deleted Air Suspension and GDE Hot Tune. 290,000 KM.
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Great job Mike. Wish I had instructions this good when I tackled the Stage 2 delete. Awesome work here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
All motivated by Ecosparky's delete ,sharing the important détails after all the hard work he put in the delete .
many others gave tips and I'm afraid i did not thank them all in other threads ..:(
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the détails are tough to nail in making a file ,
after putting it together , there are still page number that don't match with the Acrobat reader page number ,
so I gave up on that ....
 

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Very impressive!

Will no doubt be used more and more as owners begin deleting their EGR. Well done!

Bob
 

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Guys , I have put together a revised version of the Sasquatch Instructions for deleting the EGR cooler.
Thanks! After reviewing your documentation feel more than confident I can do this, might be awhile before I pull the EGR off but given this "how-to" feel confident I can do it.

Wonder if the mods would make this a sticky for future ED owners wishing to remove the EGR?:confused:
Of course with Ok from Sasquatch for the incorporation of their inst.
 

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I have three tid bits of fun facts to help a person out with the stage 2 delete:

#1 I used 3 50lbs cattle feed bags to stand on next to my truck. Those are about 3 foot long and 2 foot wide, they worked great to reach deep into engine bay. Sunflower seed would work good for those who don't live on a farm.

#2 I used a long "under bed" type storage container to collect antifreeze that came out during coolant line removal and plate placement. I placed it under the engine where I was working. It easily and cleanly collected all the fluid. I then placed the fluid into appropriate container when I was finished for disposal. I didn't drain the radiator, I just let it all run out of the lines.

#3 To get to the bottom turbo exhaust outlet to take off the tube and put on plate, I turned the passenger wheel to the left with steering wheel, this left me enough room to get inside the wheel well with the wheel well cover off, and I could then reach in behind the engine to take out bolts, remove tube, and place new plate. Still VERY hard to access but much easier then underneath the truck, and I don't see how anyone could access that from top of the truck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Good Stuff jlarbey ...;)
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on the coolant stuff , I was thinking ,,, for the people who are going to use the Sasquatch kit ,
since it will be replaced , why not " cut " that lower coolant hose at its lowest point , and open cap on degas bottle
to collect the coolant , I haven't done the job personnally so far , so I have no way of knowing
if it is in a good spot to avoid getting coolant all over the side of the engine and dripping in 20 different places .
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maybe it will be useless , Wonder if the Inside design of the EGR cooler itself keeps a lot of coolant that
will flow out once you move the unit around , to remove it .
 

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Great post but if I already have a leaking egr can I just block off using the plates and re route the coolant? Only at 50k miles out of 100k of the powertrain so if anything happens I would hate to have to reinstall it consider the pain of removal!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
just rerouting coolant will leave HOT exhaust gases flowing tnru the EGR ,
and as written in the preface PDF , you run the risk of having a certain particular malfonction that can
melt your intake manifold , you are looking for a short cut not to get the delete kits , OK , there is one , you make your own plates ,
also mentioned in the preface PDF .
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-one plate on location 2 ( like the CFT kit )
- one plug in hose at location 3 ( also like CFT kit )
-one plate at location 1 ( after removing Turbo Up Pipe )
- one plate at location 4 intake manifold

your defective EGR still in place ,( no good reason to leave it there) ,will not fool anyone at the dealer , the missing diffuser tube between location 5 and 4
will be a clear clue you have modified your truck . You can't win and have it both ways on this .
other fact , you will get codes if you don't have a tune installed , GDE hot tune ( post June 2016 ) is already fully compatible with the delete .
 

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I completely understand. Thank you. I am not trying to fool anyone. I am trying to avoid reinstalling the egr IF the motor blows for another reason. Thank you again for the write up and the answers. I am sure there would be a market for people wanting to leave their working or defective egr in place. Simply to avoid the hassle of removing or hassle of reinstalling.
 

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I completely understand. Thank you. I am not trying to fool anyone. I am trying to avoid reinstalling the egr IF the motor blows for another reason. Thank you again for the write up and the answers. I am sure there would be a market for people wanting to leave their working or defective egr in place. Simply to avoid the hassle of removing or hassle of reinstalling.
From what I can tell, based on feed back from this forum, those who have the GDE tune don't seem to experience blown motors. Additionally I have previously posted those with the GDE tune have not experienced a failed EGR value. I have further postulated that since the GDE tune disables hot exhaust gases passing through the EGR value thus preventing failure of the EGR value. But then again this is based on non-empirical evidence and is just my opinion.

(Think the bourbon is kicking in;))
 

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Does anybody know the exact size of the torx bolts on the back of the EGR? They're definetly not T40, unless I'm looking at the wrong thing but based on all the pictures and instructions I've read I am looking at the right stuff on the back. T40 is way too big, I went down to T27 but the auto zone and lowes closed before I could get to them to grab a smaller socket. T27 was also too big
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
only one T40 , it is hidden , it holds the EGR onto the bracket that holds the EGr , some have given up on trying to remove that 1 bolt
and cut the bracket , it is not an expensive bracket in case you want to reinstall the EGr for whatever reason later .
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are you talking about the 3 bolts in the same area ??
you don't have to remove those .
here are 2 pictures ..
one thumbnail and one link ...
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