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EGR Cooler stage 2 delete Instructions .

71K views 38 replies 19 participants last post by  Bily90 
#1 · (Edited)
Guys , I have put together a revised version of the Sasquatch Instructions for deleting the EGR cooler .
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well it took me some time to figure out how to get Jpeg files turned into a PDF file but here it is .
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When doing stage 2 EGR cooler delete you have to go thru the Instructions from the Stage 1 first , so I combined them , 1 and 2 ..
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Also the touchy stuff , I used the Sasquatch Instructions , as a Starting point , I would not want to get them mad by putting info
from the competitor (CFT Performance ) into their Instructions , so I made another PDF file , the one called Preface , mixed overall info in there .
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If people at Sasquatch are not happy with this for any reason , let me know and I'll delete the Post .


from TheB2B : in here , EGR Delete Questions ,,post # 159
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"" Kazimodo since you have put together a list of steps and potential problems and how they where resolved how about a concise how to here for stage 2 removal? ""
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For some reason I cannot load the bigger PDF , Have to split it in 2 for size reasons , will be in next post .
 

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#27 ·
Thanks for posting the compiled instructions for this project. I just finished mine and found it straight forward following your files and fairly easy except for putting the air intake back in. I accessed everything except the down pipe from above, and pulled and blocked it from a creaper with the suspension set to off-road 2. I believe reading through the guide you assembled cut my work time in half. Completed the delete and swapped the 3-way valve in 6 hours.

THANKS!!
 
#28 ·
Hey Guys
I just finished my stage 2 delete with the GDE tune. I'd like to add a few things I learned.
1/4" ratchet and socket set is a must.
Spray all bolts with wd40 or similar the day before. My truck has 160,000km and all the bolts came out like butter. When doing the Torx bolts, make sure the bit is square to the bolt and well seated or you will strip it.
Definitely pull off the wheel well plastic.
Jack up the truck so the passenger side wheel is 3-4 inches off the ground, and pull the wheel. This extra height makes it possible to really get in the wheel well elbow deep...literally. This will give you great access to the coolant hoses and also the turbo up pipe. I could put my arm in between the exhaust pipe and the firewall to access the rear of the engine. I tried from the top and found it extremely awkward. Doing it from the wheel well was almost a pleasure...
When putting on the turbo block off plate, install the top bolt first and snug it up but not tight. This will allow you to easily line up the gasket with the plate and the turbo holes as the plate hangs on the top bolt. Again, 1/4" ratchet is your friend.

I used the Sasquatch kit. I had one problem. The front coolant hose that bolts to the bracket would not seal. Yes I did use the gasket. I tightened the bolts so much one broke. I ended up plugging the rubber section of the hose instead.
All in all, not a terrible job and I highly recommend this to anyone that has this truck. If you follow the updated instructions and have the right tools, it isn't too bad.
I've only driven 45km so far, but have noticed the following: More power, how much? I don't know. But it's faster off the line and holds gears longer especially if you stomp it. It doesn't strain anymore. The overall noise is a bit louder from the motor, in a good way. Almost sounds like a big boy diesel. I don't know my fuel economy numbers but will post in a few hundred kilometers.
Paul
 
#29 ·
Nice job, it's hard to explain stuff to anyone on paper.

Perhaps it was mentioned somewhere and I missed it, but having a cheap blanket to throw over your fenders while you work helps protect the finish, and watch out for metal zippers, aka, Carhart overalls on the paint.

Cheers

sourdo
 
#30 ·
Info to add here :
Sasquatch no longer sells EGR delete kits ...pity . I emailed them and they confirmed.
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CFT will be more popular now , easier on rear coolant location ,just bolting a plate ,
and have to cut and plug hose on front coolant line with their kits.
 
#34 ·
Cool Tollmtn , there is another kit available now too :https://noecodelete.com/product/no-eco-egr-delete-kit/
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looks solid , and different design for front coolant hose.

the ebay kits are not all good , some are crap , bent plates leaking , some bad reports out there ,
good for you that you found a good one .
 

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#35 ·
The ebay kits are not all good , some are crap , bent plates leaking , some bad reports out there ,
good for you that you found a good one .
I have been buying off Ebay for virtually as long as they have existed. I never hesitate to send an item back if it is not as described but have only had to do that a few times. I also never buy from a seller that does not have an established feedback record and has less than 99% positive feedback. The seller I purchased from has 100% positive. Right now two sellers have kits listed, the seller with the lower price has 197 feedbacks at 97.6 positive. The other seller the one I linked above has 4,478 feedbacks at 99.9% positive. It is hard to keep 99.9% positive with that many sales because some people are impossible to please, so IMO a safe bet is the kit from dfuser-power is not junk.
 
#36 ·
UPDATE In post #33 I said this......When I removed my EGR I did not drain from the radiator, I drained it by removing the lower hose clamp and pulling the hose off the lower tube. I caught most of it in a bucket, and was surprised how little actually came out, I didn't measure it but would guess about 1.5 qts., when I removed the valve after draining from the hose it only had a few drops left inside.

My truck engine was overnight cold when I started the job. My coolant recovery tank fluid level was right at the seam on the tank when I started the EGR delete job and it was still right at the seam when I finished. It did not go down until I started the engine and drove the truck a short distance. It took exactly 1 quart to bring the cold coolant level back up to its pre EGR delete level.
 
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