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Thanks and yeah this is exactly how I feel lol my arms and hands are all torn up I have a coolant leak that I have to fix from the hose coming from the firewall but I'll worry with that later

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I wanted to tell you how much I appreciated you making this thread and redoing the instructions kazimodo. I wanted to add some pictures for the guys that are working with the stage 2 CFT EGR delete kit since it seemed most of these instruction are for the sasquatch delete kit. I really appreciated being able to call Josh and ask for clarification because the black and white pictures that come with the kit left a lot to be desired.
Anyway, My biggest issue was understanding that the coolant pipe forward of the egr cooler had to be completely removed and the hose was to be plugged further down. The way it was worded in the directions made it seem as though the actual tube itself was to be plugged.


I got that sorted out but I ran into the same issue I read about with the T40 bolt not wanting to come out and ended up stripping it. What course of action is best to remove that bracket so I can get the EGR assembly removed?


Luckily though I was able to remove the exhaust pipe running to the egr and go ahead and block off the exhaust. Now I can at least drive the truck until I get the bracket off to remove the assembly since I have all the coolant lines properly blocked as well as the exhaust.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Sorry for misleading you Dukecrazy , for the bracket with the Torx 40 bolt , those who had troubles just cut the bracket
with a metal saw , it is not expensive to replace that bracket if you ever need to re-install a working EGR cooler , like +/- $10.00
so not Worth the wasted time to work in that area and lose your mind over that. once cut you can put EGr Cooler on the work table
and mess around with the T40 without being twisted like a Pretzel if you really have your mind set on removing it .
..
the CFT kit needs that hose to be cut , sorry it was not clear in the instruction , with Sasquatch you bolt the metal tube to the provided
extra bracket in their kit , the down side to the Sasquatch is not having the plate to put in rear coolant tube and having to replace a tube with their
90 degree tube , much nicer to put the plate of the CFT kit ( location 2) .
.
4 images with Sasquatch , and CFT , for différences , also one by Brokendownbutgood , to shoiw how he added a hose and a "Y "
to achieve the " bypass method 2 for coolant hoses .
 

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No need to apologize at all, I studied your instructions before I began the project and it helped out A LOT! I was much more familiar with everything than I would've been if I would've attempted to use the black and white pictures in the cft instructions.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
post #17 talks about cutting the bracket .
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in post #1 there is a file called Preface file , it says in there that because the Sasquatch instructions were used
as a base for the Instruction , that it would be unfair to put CFT stuff in the Instructions , so all the CFT related stuff is in
the preface file .
Everytime I go thru the preface file , I feel it is not as clear as it should be , all info mixed up in a bunch ,
more time and concentration to go thru that one .
 

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Man you posted this thread just a few weeks after my EGR delete experience. I used the CFT kit but found the instructions to leave something to be desired.... I used anything I could find online but this thread would’ve been a major time saver. Lessons learned: save yourself some time and just cut the bracket supporting the cooler. I found the bracket on mopars website for less than $10 bucks in the event I need to put the EGR back on. Also, be careful not to over tighten the bolts.... they snap easily and are VERY hard to get out once broken. If you are hesitant about doing the work yourself or are inexperienced like I was just take it to a diesel shop and spend the $500 or less to ha e the pros do it.
 

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Thanks for posting the compiled instructions for this project. I just finished mine and found it straight forward following your files and fairly easy except for putting the air intake back in. I accessed everything except the down pipe from above, and pulled and blocked it from a creaper with the suspension set to off-road 2. I believe reading through the guide you assembled cut my work time in half. Completed the delete and swapped the 3-way valve in 6 hours.

THANKS!!
 

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Hey Guys
I just finished my stage 2 delete with the GDE tune. I'd like to add a few things I learned.
1/4" ratchet and socket set is a must.
Spray all bolts with wd40 or similar the day before. My truck has 160,000km and all the bolts came out like butter. When doing the Torx bolts, make sure the bit is square to the bolt and well seated or you will strip it.
Definitely pull off the wheel well plastic.
Jack up the truck so the passenger side wheel is 3-4 inches off the ground, and pull the wheel. This extra height makes it possible to really get in the wheel well elbow deep...literally. This will give you great access to the coolant hoses and also the turbo up pipe. I could put my arm in between the exhaust pipe and the firewall to access the rear of the engine. I tried from the top and found it extremely awkward. Doing it from the wheel well was almost a pleasure...
When putting on the turbo block off plate, install the top bolt first and snug it up but not tight. This will allow you to easily line up the gasket with the plate and the turbo holes as the plate hangs on the top bolt. Again, 1/4" ratchet is your friend.

I used the Sasquatch kit. I had one problem. The front coolant hose that bolts to the bracket would not seal. Yes I did use the gasket. I tightened the bolts so much one broke. I ended up plugging the rubber section of the hose instead.
All in all, not a terrible job and I highly recommend this to anyone that has this truck. If you follow the updated instructions and have the right tools, it isn't too bad.
I've only driven 45km so far, but have noticed the following: More power, how much? I don't know. But it's faster off the line and holds gears longer especially if you stomp it. It doesn't strain anymore. The overall noise is a bit louder from the motor, in a good way. Almost sounds like a big boy diesel. I don't know my fuel economy numbers but will post in a few hundred kilometers.
Paul
 

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2017 1500 Tradesman Ecodiesel 4x4 Quad Cab 3.55 Gears
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Nice job, it's hard to explain stuff to anyone on paper.

Perhaps it was mentioned somewhere and I missed it, but having a cheap blanket to throw over your fenders while you work helps protect the finish, and watch out for metal zippers, aka, Carhart overalls on the paint.

Cheers

sourdo
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Info to add here :
Sasquatch no longer sells EGR delete kits ...pity . I emailed them and they confirmed.
..
CFT will be more popular now , easier on rear coolant location ,just bolting a plate ,
and have to cut and plug hose on front coolant line with their kits.
 

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CFT will be more popular now
Kazimodo - I have a cft kit sitting here but I don't want to fully delete the EGR until after the AEM. Is there a way to use part of the kit and block the coolant but leave the EGR for now?



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Thought I'd share my experience installing the turbo manifold plate. As you can see from the photos, all three bolts snapped on the manifold. They snapped high enough that I was able to use nuts to install the plate.


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Info to add here :
Sasquatch no longer sells EGR delete kits ...pity . I emailed them and they confirmed.
..
CFT will be more popular now , easier on rear coolant location ,just bolting a plate ,
and have to cut and plug hose on front coolant line with their kits.
This particular kit on Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/EGR-Valve-Cooler-Delete-Kit-For-2014-2017-Dodge-Ram-1500-3-0L-EcoDiesel-3-0/263850048197?hash=item3d6eb03ac5:g:ln8AAOSwr85bYMZV:sc:FedExHomeDelivery!59759!US!-1 Should be fine, when tracing Difuser I find this, https://afepower.com/dfuser-com-llc. Just a wild guess but AFE might be the source of kits that other retail outlets market under different names. dfuser.com LLC A full service diesel shop, we design and manufacture parts in the USA.

When I removed my EGR I did not drain from the radiator, I drained it by removing the lower hose clamp and pulling the hose off the lower tube. I caught most of it in a bucket, and was surprised how little actually came out, I didn't measure it but would guess about 1.5 qts., when I removed the valve after draining from the hose it only had a few drops left inside.

I happened to have a T40 torque bit in the hard top removal kit from my JK, the kit also has a small ratchet wrench for torque bits. With that wrench It was easy to get it on the torque bolt squarely and apply all the pressure I felt that I could without stripping the bolt, it was not budging so I decided to saw the bracket. To get a better angle on the bracket I removed the other three mounting bolts and pulled the front end of the valve assembly away from the engine, doing that slightly bent the sheet-metal bracket and exposed it.

OK when I did that I found that because the valve is large and easy to grip I COULD turn the valve itself about a quarter turn left and right on the bolt. I twisted it back and forth a half dozen times and stopped with it turned counterclockwise, (out at the top), the direction for loosening the bolt. I tried the wrench on it again and it was loosened. it unscrewed without fuss. Believe me. it just took me a heck of a lot longer to explain that than it did to get the bolt out.

Just for general info...I purchase my delete kit that was not advertised by a brand name off Ebay from a seller that no longer has kits. The parts were all very good quality, the three plates were 3/8" thick and mirror smooth, the long bracket was 1/4" thick nicely plated steel. the kit had the same exact parts list as Sasquatch kit, buy it now was $85.00, the part number on the box was DP0217.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Cool Tollmtn , there is another kit available now too :https://noecodelete.com/product/no-eco-egr-delete-kit/
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looks solid , and different design for front coolant hose.

the ebay kits are not all good , some are crap , bent plates leaking , some bad reports out there ,
good for you that you found a good one .
 

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The ebay kits are not all good , some are crap , bent plates leaking , some bad reports out there ,
good for you that you found a good one .
I have been buying off Ebay for virtually as long as they have existed. I never hesitate to send an item back if it is not as described but have only had to do that a few times. I also never buy from a seller that does not have an established feedback record and has less than 99% positive feedback. The seller I purchased from has 100% positive. Right now two sellers have kits listed, the seller with the lower price has 197 feedbacks at 97.6 positive. The other seller the one I linked above has 4,478 feedbacks at 99.9% positive. It is hard to keep 99.9% positive with that many sales because some people are impossible to please, so IMO a safe bet is the kit from dfuser-power is not junk.
 

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UPDATE In post #33 I said this......When I removed my EGR I did not drain from the radiator, I drained it by removing the lower hose clamp and pulling the hose off the lower tube. I caught most of it in a bucket, and was surprised how little actually came out, I didn't measure it but would guess about 1.5 qts., when I removed the valve after draining from the hose it only had a few drops left inside.

My truck engine was overnight cold when I started the job. My coolant recovery tank fluid level was right at the seam on the tank when I started the EGR delete job and it was still right at the seam when I finished. It did not go down until I started the engine and drove the truck a short distance. It took exactly 1 quart to bring the cold coolant level back up to its pre EGR delete level.
 

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Very impressive!

Will no doubt be used more and more as owners begin deleting their EGR. Well done!

Bob
Not in states that mandate inspections including emissions compliance. Not sure most owners would wrench on their trucks twice a year to get their trucks to pass
 
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