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Discussion Starter #1
OQnxKV6aT2iShRi0kNJBmA by Larry Malinoski, on Flickr

Really did expect it to show much more soot contamination. Even wiped it on the paint for another look. Seem to remember that by this time the Ecodiesel blackened the oil with soot contamination. Now I also expect this to turn black but do not know when. Do not expect to change this oil for the full 15,000 mile interval. OK - might cheat and do it at 12,000 but I am reading it's not necessary, even for the first oil change.

Sure I want to get rid of the EGR. Want rid of the DEF also. Not ready yet but my mind is on clean running. Stupid busy installing amateur radios and testing . All is starting to look good.

FYI, stuck around 20 mpg in my normal running on the EVIC. That has come up but should not be taken as the final world. Gonna take a good run and tow for a few thousand to really know. Starting stuff like that in a couple weeks.

Some have complained about the air conditioning. Well look. Here is the temperature coming out of my vents when the wife "shot" it Sunday after church. No issues for me.

GRhl5qmbSAWBlGUY3PY6xg by Larry Malinoski, on Flickr

For some it would be a cold day in hell for them to go to church. For me it's just a cool day in paradise.
 

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That oil looks great, the Eco would have been black as ink in those miles. Big difference is likely the lack of pilot injection on the Cummins, the main soot producer in the Eco. Would also explain the longer factory recommended service interval. Thanks for posting.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The reading and asking I have done seems to show this is nowhere as miserable a problem for the Cummins as it is with the Ecodiesel. Have read about some factory and original emissions systems getting into the 1/2 million mile mark. Of course there is always the problem one popping up. Just seems to be quite rare.

Also think that there are way more complete deletes on the Cummins than on the Ecodiesel. Power is maybe the reason as it seems to be the goal of many, many owners. Far as I can figure, without the issue of the current tuning problems, there is nothing yet available for the 2019's and nothing even approaching a tune that keeps the factory emissions in stock like GDE does.

Hoping for the best but comfortable leaving it stock - for now.
 

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I know the new 6.7 is quite different than the ISB6.7 but rest assured, soot is not a problem. Cummins specs 3 to 5% soot (Depends on the engine but I cant just remember at this time) as a condemnation limit. After 15k I got mine up to 0.59% on my first UOA and this last one was 0.58%. This is with lots of idle time and cold weather short trips. Like 6 days a week in nothing warmer that -20C in February alone. 23km to town, sat all day, maybe plugged in and then 23km home. 100 idle hours this last index. Non traceable fuel and a fraction of the soot condemnation limit.

Hell, I cant even get the engine to shear its motor oil. Run 15k and don't sweat a thing.
 

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It seems to me it is difficult to make casual observations about the darkness of the oil at a specific mileage without somehow considering and adjusting for volume of oil in base relative to displacement of engine, amount of starts and stops both initial and on the road, portion of available horsepower being used, especially on acceleration. So many things, including the engine programming, affect the amount of soot. However, for my 2 cents worth I agree with Brian F above, soot is virtually never a problem with either engine as far as the lubricating oil goes. It is just that people become emotional about black vs golden oil.
 

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Just remember Cummins makes fca put a lot of time and effort into R&D they dont want there reputation ruined, especially not from poor tuning. Vm motori well not so much they let fca decide how it should be tuned. Dont get me wrong Cummins still has issues and are not perfect but they do put a lot into reliability.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Watched a TFL video with a Cummins engineer. Using the cutaway they went over the changes in the new motor. Impressive. Still trying to learn just where the parts are.

I have been doing way more idling than I like. Lots of moving around the property to make adjustments and build stuff in and outside of the truck. Lots of short stops and shopping. Twice it has idles for 1/2 your or more with air conditioner on while wife stopped and talked with people. That is not what this motor likes so the oil condition kind of surprised me.

Same can be said for that DPF gauge. It has moved up but seems that when I run the 70 miles to the rifle range and back it drops back to zero I guess. Have yet to notice any kind of regeneration but my gauge is not reading the CAT temp. so I could be missing it.

On the oil change issue, been reading where some deleted ones go way above the 15,000 mile change interval. No handle on many talking early changes, even all the stock ones. PPEI started to offer an very expensive tune and then pulled it off the market. Have seen a video of a 2019 "rolling coal" a little bit.

Another crazy thing is this motor is just a little larger than the Cummins I had before the Ecodieesel. It has near double the torque rating. Double. From what I can feel you could run this thing with a three speed transmission.
 

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Capt.... EPA changed the NOX requirements,less cold engine EGR gases reintroduced back into the intake, More def fluid at higher Rpms to lower the NOX to compensate the higher level of NOX at low Rpms...= Cleaner Oil

I let my truck idle for 30-45 minutes twice a day during hay season while loading and unloading hay, Because my dogs like to go on hay deliveries and they like AC ....3 years still working perfectly....I do not worry about idling or actually care when something goes wrong I’ll fix it ...

Looking forward to learn your def consumption...
 

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The idling use to really bother me. I still do not like it, but I have seen that with my ecodiesel it idles at coolant and oil temp levels higher than the cummins runs under load down the road. I don't like to let it idle when its cold and im not getting it up to temp. I assume your easily getting it up to temp during hay season though HNG
 

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The other cool thing about these trucks are the idle features. On long idle times, the engine ups the rpm periodically for emissions protection or some term like that. In the cold it high idles on its own. Or you can push the cruise button on and then hit the decal - button to force high idle.

In the cold I might idle 10 to 20 minutes before driving.

I put 100 idle hours on this last index and fuel was a non issue and my wear numbers are coming down. I no longer worry about idling.
 

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But in the bloody winter cold out here, -20, -30 and -35C I have run the truck, keep the winter front completely closed when idling as it will shed heat like a liberal spending my tax dollars.
 

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Cap't if your plans are to remove the DEF + EGR, you will need think about getting on that purchase of a Full Delete Kit sooner than later....

With the EPA crackdown, who knows what the supply & demand will be a month from now? 6 months from now? ....

And who will be willing to take the risk to supply the tuner matched to your VIN (without a price premium of course).

Perhaps there are program-it-yourself kits out there, but I just do not know enough about all the cummins options.

My buddy just bought a full delete kit for his 6.7 cummins & they needed his VIN to preprogram the tuner module before it could ship out.
 

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The other cool thing about these trucks are the idle features. On long idle times, the engine ups the rpm periodically for emissions protection or some term like that. In the cold it high idles on its own. Or you can push the cruise button on and then hit the decal - button to force high idle.

In the cold I might idle 10 to 20 minutes before driving.

I put 100 idle hours on this last index and fuel was a non issue and my wear numbers are coming down. I no longer worry about idling.
I do love the fact that dad's cummins will regen in park on it own.... just don't stand in front of the tail pipe!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The other cool thing about these trucks are the idle features. On long idle times, the engine ups the rpm periodically for emissions protection or some term like that. In the cold it high idles on its own. Or you can push the cruise button on and then hit the decal - button to force high idle.

In the cold I might idle 10 to 20 minutes before driving.

I put 100 idle hours on this last index and fuel was a non issue and my wear numbers are coming down. I no longer worry about idling.
You guys are doing an education to me and others.

There are buttons on the dash for exhaust braking. Think it's one push for deceleration and a double push for just maintaining your speed. Not sure that is what you mean for forcing a high idle.

As for allowing the engine to idle, I do have trepidation on that issue. Prior to the Ecodiesel all my other diesels, including the tractor I have right now, had no emissions. The Ecodiesel bothered me for a brief time with cylinder wash and regenerations. This one just does not seem to be like that, far as I can tell. Read that a regeneration is not rpm dependent for the current Cummins. Cannot see how that can be. It is NOT a topic of discussion on the Cummins forums. Just might be the case. I have never noticed or smell a regeneration yet. The Ultra Gauge will not read out CAT temperatures. Hope to replace it with something that will, once I figure out what to do about a "powerless tune".

Seems some or maybe all of the offered tunes require an OBDII port reader be connected all the time. Looks like they then have a readout gauge displaying that status and offering on-board changes. I want some kind of tune like GDE first. Have not found it. Many tunes are not even available for the 2019's. They are evidently different than 2018's or earlier. To buy a replacement gauge that might read out CAT temperatures may be futile if a final tune uses the OBDII port all the time.

Tuning is occupying some research time but hunting season is coming up and I expect to be away often the next few months. Will deal with that after Thanksgiving. Right now the ordered cap is not made and in for installation. That messes me up with all the hunting stuff and tools I like to carry in the bed. Another issue is the darn fuel filler tube. I need to remove it, cut the metal tube and install a filler. Removal is near impossible as there's not clearance above a frame member to get to where that metal tube goes into a rubber one which connects to the tank. Dealing with that is another thing that will happen after cap is on so I can protect things in the bed.

Appreciate the ideas. Tuning, cap, bug deflector, class 5 towing adapters and more still await my research and installation. Yes - I miss the Ecodiesel right now.
 

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When you hook up for the first tow you wont miss it anymore Capt. I have adulterous thoughts towards my ecodiesel when I drive my old mans cummins when we go on trips.

But when im commuting to work and towing in my own truck I enjoy the fuel mileage ride, and the little engine that IS GETTING IT DONE spirit!
 

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That oil looks great, the Eco would have been black as ink in those miles. Big difference is likely the lack of pilot injection on the Cummins, the main soot producer in the Eco. Would also explain the longer factory recommended service interval. Thanks for posting.
Cummins engines have had pilot injection since 04.5 model year.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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The Exhaust Brake will be another joy of owning a Cummins, It takes a little experimenting to figure your driving style . I run mine on Full with tow/haul while towing , If you press the brake pedal while traveling 60 + mph it’ll start to downshift and put your face into the steering wheel and get your attention....I learned how to avoid this situation...Quickly step on the accelerator and this will cancel out the downshifting....

Auto Exhaust Brake will not do this ,but it also doesn’t stop nearly as well either...

Exhaust Brake only engages while Torque Convertor is LOCKED....
 

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We drive ours with full EB all the time. You learn to just work the throttle and downshift, then you barely ever require service brakes. Also on those frosty starts, I run out and turn the exhaust brake on (If a trailer is hooked up it comes on automatically). The truck idles up and the thing sounds like an after burner.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Just tried that brake a couple days ago. Found a downhill ramp and gave it one press. Truck slowed down and kept on slowing. Not dramatic.

Later on the other side of that downhill I did a "double press". That is supposed to just keep the same speed and not speed up but also not slow down. Nothing really happened as the downgrade was not all that long. Oh well. Next time I run down a mountain in Florida I will test again.
 

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Capt... No need for mountains to learn how to properly operate your Exhaust Brake next time out put your truck in TowHaul ,Exhaust Brake full come back and report your findings, be ready to feather in between the throttle and slightly touching brake pedal ...

I believe it’s much safer to learn Exhaust Braking Before Going to mountains,especially if you hit ice on a down grade...
 
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