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Discussion Starter #1
After being GDE tuned from 40K, I finally decided to remove the EGR at 155K. Overall a pretty manageable project right until literally the last bolt. Removing the turbo up pipe, one of the bolts chewed up the threads in the hole. Putting the new screw in it shredded the threads and can’t get a screw in. That was bad, and has now gone to worse. I tried tapping the bolt hole but with the crappy access. Ack there I mishandled the tap and snapped the tip down in the hole.

I’ve seen some threads with people talking about shearing bolts back there and drilling and welding to fix it. First of all I’m not sure if my 2014 has different clearances, but I can barely get a hand back there (passenger wheel off and plastic fender removed) let alone drills and stuff. I’ve seen a tap removal tool online but I have little confidence I’m not going to make it worse. My limited skill set is “tapped out”.

Two bolts are nice and snug. Should I just use a cold weld epoxy to reinforce the plate at that corner? Any other big brain solutions out here?


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I’ve never used a tap removal tool but that might be your best bet. You could probably lift the cab a little without disconnecting everything in the engine bay. Also, just in case you didn’t know, the bolt holes do not go all the way through the turbo flange. Be careful not to keep cranking if the two or bolt bottoms out.
 

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I would be tempted to put some copper coat sealer on the plate and try the two bolts. It is tight in there, just did mine too. Lifting the cab like Broke said would be good idea if you really wanted to get it out.
 

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I have the front end up on jack stands so I could get the passenger wheel off. Is that what you mean by lifting the cab?


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What he means is removing the 6 bolts that hold the cab in place to the frame. Then you would jack your the cab carefully.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
What he means is removing the 6 bolts that hold the cab in place to the frame. Then you would jack your the cab carefully.
LOL. This is going to test every skill I’ve gained working on this truck. I’ll have to google this one!


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I would be tempted to put some copper coat sealer on the plate and try the two bolts. It is tight in there, just did mine too. Lifting the cab like Broke said would be good idea if you really wanted to get it out.
I read someone saying that just two bolts may weaken because there is a lot of pressure on that plate. Is the sealer adhesive or just reinforces the gasket? I was thinking a bead of cold weld epoxy at the unbolted corner of the plate to reinforce it. Could do both I suppose. I can’t see me lifting the cab. I’m just not that mechanically inclined.


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When I say lifting cab I literally mean lifting cab its really not that bad to just lift it 3-5 inchs for clearance. After that it gets more involved. On mine two would not hold it had a very noticable leak and I ended up with a new turbo, good luck.
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I never used the epoxy but the copper coat is for metal to metal sealing. you might double up on the plates to control flex. The bolts will hold as long as they are as deep as the diameter it the threads are good. But yes do be careful about overtightening them.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
When I say lifting cab I literally mean lifting cab its really not that bad to just lift it 3-5 inchs for clearance. After that it gets more involved. On mine two would not hold it had a very noticable leak and I ended up with a new turbo, good luck.
View attachment 88567
Ya. Sounds like I want three bolts holding it. In the picture did you remove the bolts connecting to the frame or did you just use the jack point you are showing and that got you different clearance than I have using the front cross member? If you do have to disconnect from the frame, have you seen a set of instructions for guys like us with floor jack only? Thanks!


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Look under the hood to see what you might need to disconnect if you pull the cab up a few inches. From memory you may have to disconnect the ecm connections, the steering wheel to rack link, maybe a few more items. You would loosen or probably remove the six bolts that hold the cab to frame. Then you would jack up the cab as uniformly as possible. You have to be careful here because you don’t want the cab and bed making contact.
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Discussion Starter #13
Look under the hood to see what you might need to disconnect if you pull the cab up a few inches. From memory you may have to disconnect the ecm connections, the steering wheel to rack link, maybe a few more items. You would loosen or probably remove the six bolts that hold the cab to frame. Then you would jack up the cab as uniformly as possible. You have to be careful here because you don’t want the cab and bed making contact. View attachment 88570
Okay. This will take me way out of my comfort zone. I’m a tinkerer at best and have visions of trying to put humpty back together again. Really appreciate your guys input.

Please tell me if this makes sense:
  • truck is currently raised by front cross member (see picture). While raised I disconnect the pieces that need to be before I separate the two.
  • remove the frame bolts
  • move one jack stand to the cab behind the front passenger wheel
  • lower the frame until I get the clearance
  • after repair, reverse this sequence

Does this sequence and support points make sense and do I need to support any other portions of the cab to get access?



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You would need to support the cab equally on all sides. At a minimum would be to jack it up on the front corners, then move to the back corners, making small gains, and putting something in between as a shim. I haven’t done this so it’s hard for me to say what exactly to do.

Also take a look at this video, they are removing the cab completely at the dealership. You won’t need to remove all these items, but it gives you an idea of the process for cab removal.

lastly, it may be worth finding a shop that can take the broken tap out and install the last bolt. There’s a gentleman on here that ran into something similar. I’ll link the thread if i find it.

 

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You need to pull all cab mounting bolts and raise it evenly like you are going to install a body lift. I left most of the harness and hoses alone since they have plently of play for 3 inches. Also make sure and support the cab well since you well be under it.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
You would need to support the cab equally on all sides. At a minimum would be to jack it up on the front corners, then move to the back corners, making small gains, and putting something in between as a shim. I haven’t done this so it’s hard for me to say what exactly to do.

Also take a look at this video, they are removing the cab completely at the dealership. You won’t need to remove all these items, but it gives you an idea of the process for cab removal.

lastly, it may be worth finding a shop that can take the broken tap out and install the last bolt. There’s a gentleman on here that ran into something similar. I’ll link the thread if i find it.

Shop quoted me upwards of two days labour to pull the cab off, fix the bolt and reinstall everything. They weren’t interested in just lifting the cab a few inches. Worried about damage to cables and fastenings. I called a mobile mechanic who does bolt removal. He told me not enough access and I’d need to pull the engine out. So I ordered a tap removal tool, flexible magnet and shorter tap handle to give it one more try before it goes to the shop. I just don’t think I can lift the cab. Fingers crossed I’ll have good news this weekend.


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Discussion Starter #17
Shop quoted me upwards of two days labour to pull the cab off, fix the bolt and reinstall everything. They weren’t interested in just lifting the cab a few inches. Worried about damage to cables and fastenings. I called a mobile mechanic who does bolt removal. He told me not enough access and I’d need to pull the engine out. So I ordered a tap removal tool, flexible magnet and shorter tap handle to give it one more try before it goes to the shop. I just don’t think I can lift the cab. Fingers crossed I’ll have good news this weekend.


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So, no joy on the tap extraction. Was able to hook onto the tap but the tool just couldn't handle the job and ended up breaking the arms off. So to the shop it is. Definitely kicking myself for taking this one on. To add insult to injury, after hooking everything up so I can run it a few miles to the shop tomorrow, I'm getting a coolant leak at the front block off plate (see picture for the connection I'm talking about). A steady drip both with the engine running and not. I made sure to reuse the original gasket and have the bolts tighter than I would like trying to seal it off. I think I have seen discussions where people found and resolved various leaks after the delete. Can anyone point me in the right direction for those or just advice in general? I can always ask the mechanic to do it but not sure if they're going to give me a song and dance about the parts I used or something.
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