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Discussion Starter #41
You mean tune and removing emissions equipment. I heard that these engines will last longer without the emissions stuff installed. As far as I know here in Ontario I can get fined for removing the emissions equipment if found out.
 

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You mean tune and removing emissions equipment. I heard that these engines will last longer without the emissions stuff installed. As far as I know here in Ontario I can get fined for removing the emissions equipment if found out.
Haven't bit the bullet myself either, but doing a emissions intact tune will still help the engine survive and it all looks stock
 

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You mean tune and removing emissions equipment. I heard that these engines will last longer without the emissions stuff installed. As far as I know here in Ontario I can get fined for removing the emissions equipment if found out.
I believe in Ontario they put a sniffer on your exhaust right? I think the GDE compliant hot tune would easily pass that test but you can contact GDE for their thoughts.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
They used to put a sniffer in the exhaust on non-commercial vehicles but that was discontinued a year ago I believe. As far as I know I can get pulled over by the MTO and if found out that I the vehicle is missing emissions equipment my vehicle can get seized and it has to to have the emissions equipment installed again before can be put back on the road
 

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They used to put a sniffer in the exhaust on non-commercial vehicles but that was discontinued a year ago I believe. As far as I know I can get pulled over by the MTO and if found out that I the vehicle is missing emissions equipment my vehicle can get seized and it has to to have the emissions equipment installed again before can be put back on the road
Yeah, I wouldn't recommend physically removing any emissions equipment where you live. I would simply get a GDE or similar tune, all equipment stays intact and your engine (and you) will be much happier.
 

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@justind Do you know if it voids the warranty when having it tuned by GDE?
It's been discussed many times, I doubt the dealer would even know anything unless you told them. The new GDE tunes allow you to flash back to stock before taking your truck to dealer anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
I'm new to the idea of tunning. I have heard of it but never looked up any detail or had any discussions. Do have to remove and send in the ECU?
 

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I'm new to the idea of tunning. I have heard of it but never looked up any detail or had any discussions. Do have to remove and send in the ECU?
Not with the new GDE hot tune, they mail you a device that allows you to grab the stock tune, you then email that stock tune to them and they send back a tuned tune, you'll have both a stock and tuned tune that you can switch back and forth with, each tune change takes roughly 8 minutes I believe.
 

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I'm in Ontario and am deleted and tuned. The DriveClean program was dropped.
Unless you are "rolling coal", you won't be pulled over by an MTO inspector. They have bigger issues to deal with.
 

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Update on my truck, this time the knocking was so loud they couldn’t deny it. So it’s getting a new motor again, but the motor won’t be here till 1st of Nov. They are getting me a rental.


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You going to tune the new engine?
 

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I think I’m going to trade it in on something else. Don’t want to take the risk w/o warranty. 1st motor lasted 10K and 2nd motor lasted 65K, not very good odds.


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I think I’m going to trade it in on something else. Don’t want to take the risk w/o warranty. 1st motor lasted 10K and 2nd motor lasted 65K, not very good odds.


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Highly rare to lose 2 engines. What is your driving style like? What are your oil changes like? Commute? Would be interesting to hear some specifics..
 

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Discussion Starter #55
As far as I know my 2017 already has the second generation engine. Does anyone know if that is correct? Also the new engine I'm getting does anyone know if any improvements have been made to it to make it more reliable? On the new 2020s they are claiming that major improvements have been made on the engine and that it is the third generation.
 

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2014-2019 is 2nd gen, 2020 is 3rd gen.

anyone with a 2014-2019 truck has the 2nd gen engine, no matter if it's been replaced..
 

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Highly rare to lose 2 engines. What is your driving style like? What are your oil changes like? Commute? Would be interesting to hear some specifics..
Well my 2016 motor lasted 6 months at 10K miles, replaced with probably same gen motor, Dealership did all my oil change, 1st at 5K and rest changed at around 7K intervals. My driving style is very mild I would say, hardly on the brakes on highway. Most of the miles are highway used mainly for trips to the coast and going to work, 50 miles round trip daily highway. 3 trips from TX to FL. Probably towed 2 or 3 times nothing really heavy.
 

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Knowing that these engines are not very reliable I'm happy that my engine blow withing a warranty. I have another 25,000 to go for warranty coverage
What grade oil have you been running? Where you running a 30 grade oil or a 40 grade oil and was it a true Group IV PAO or Group V Ester synthetic or was it one of many Group III conventional oils labeled as synthetic?

If you were running a 30 grade oil then that is likely the problem, FCA has determined 30 grade oils do not provide the film strength to protect the bottom end bearings. If you used a 40 grade oil but it was a Group III conventional oil labeled as a synthetic then the oil could have sheared down to a 30 grade oil and you are right back to the same problem of the film strength not being able to protect the bottom end bearings.
 

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What grade oil have you been running? Where you running a 30 grade oil or a 40 grade oil and was it a true Group IV PAO or Group V Ester synthetic or was it one of many Group III conventional oils labeled as synthetic?

If you were running a 30 grade oil then that is likely the problem, FCA has determined 30 grade oils do not provide the film strength to protect the bottom end bearings. If you used a 40 grade oil but it was a Group III conventional oil labeled as a synthetic then the oil could have sheared down to a 30 grade oil and you are right back to the same problem of the film strength not being able to protect the bottom end bearings.
While I fully understand what you wrote because I'm a 16 year Bitog'er, the majority of people out there have no idea about specifics of oil lol. I've read a few times from people that have had multiple engine replacements, they always seem to get dealer oil changes which I find interesting. I'm not saying that's 100% of the time the cause obviously but who knows what the oil change kid is throwing in there not even thinking about it.

You obviously run premium oil however these engines should be perfectly happy for their life on Rotella T6 5w-40. If they blow on that then it's a manufacturing defect not an oil problem. I'm wondering if you're masking any manufacturing defect in your particular engine by running premium Redline oil? I guess if it's going to blow it should blow regardless of how high end the oil is...
 
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