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Discussion Starter #1
I am the proud owner of 100,000 miles under my belt with my EcoD since new 4 years ago. Its never given me one issue except for engine lights when I ran out of fuel twice. After a day or so the light went out. That said, I love the engine, and the 22mpg I get around town is great. Thinking down the line, if I keep the truck until I run it into the ground I have to eventually consider replacing the engine.
What replacement options do I have and are these CPP crate cummins motors (or any other Cummins) a possible swap? I'm guessing not because of the weight and other issues but just looking at my diesel options. Thank you
 

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While everything is possible, its a matter of cost and reliability. An engine swap is only as good as the swapper.
IMO I would suggest another Ecodiesel engine when and if the time comes.
You should be able to get another couple hundred thousand miles out of it yet with proper maintenance and maybe a tune.
 

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I know its a little smaller. If mine tanks out of warranty and I decide to go with a different motor I will put a cummins 2.8 in it. All the hard parts and tuning for it are already out there for the our 8-speed as that was the transmission it was developed with. Its 0.2 liters smaller in displacement, but supposedly has been tuned well past what a stock ecodiesel puts out.
 

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Banks Eng did make “crate” motors for the Eco-used a version of our engine in a military contract I believe. With that said, you’re still good for a lot of miles barring something weird.
 

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Lok on Ebay and find alternative sources for another motor if you eventually need one. Vern Diesel bought one and now has over 300,000 on the replacement...maybe 400,000 miles.

You want to get a new motor soon - run it out of fuel. Seriously. The CP4 fuel pump in the Ecodiesel will shred its' cam lobes right fast if not lubricated with fuel. Shocked you have not already torn it apart, sent metal through the injector lines into the injectors and already trashed your motor. Another issue is even running the fuel in the tank below 1/4 tank. That heats up and destroys the lift pump in the tank. That alone is a major headache and expense.

Stop it and never run with less than 1/4 tank. NEVER.
 

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Consider Full delete tune EGR cooler delete use TH change Mopar fuel filter water separator every 30k and run it another 250k.

If it spits a bearing you can look at drop in new with new turbo new high pressure fuel pump & injectors plus 24 month unlimited mile warranty or used low mile motor from a salvage yard. At non dealership shop it’s $1k to 1,500 to remove & replace and little down time.

A 4bt makes no sense to me. A Hemi maybe something else I don’t know what. Expensive 750 pounds 105 HP shakes like a paint shaker noisy poor fuel economy ask GDE they are harsh on automatic transmissions. Other than the name plate & being a million mile capable I don’t know why anyone would want to try to live with one.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Some great suggestions. Thanks. I have run the GDE tune for the past 3 years and oil analyses have all been good. Deletes will probably come right after expiration of the warranties by next year some time.
If it were a matter of money I think the smart play for economy would be to pick up a pentastar, but whatever I may eventually end up with I think I need a diesel because I will keep it as a strict work truck for as long as I can
86350
 

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Cummins doesn’t have a great engine for this platform. The 2.8 needs a lot of work to make it produce good power and well cost a lot more to swap than just building one of these.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Like Captain said, running it out of fuel is easily one of the worst things you can do to it lol
Well I guess I got lucky again.
One of these days my luck will run out, but heart attacks and viruses havent taken me out...yet! LOL
Hopefully the truck will outlast me, and I think my son would have a good time with it!
 

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Lok on Ebay and find alternative sources for another motor if you eventually need one. Vern Diesel bought one and now has over 300,000 on the replacement...maybe 400,000 miles.

You want to get a new motor soon - run it out of fuel. Seriously. The CP4 fuel pump in the Ecodiesel will shred its' cam lobes right fast if not lubricated with fuel. Shocked you have not already torn it apart, sent metal through the injector lines into the injectors and already trashed your motor. Another issue is even running the fuel in the tank below 1/4 tank. That heats up and destroys the lift pump in the tank. That alone is a major headache and expense.

Stop it and never run with less than 1/4 tank. NEVER.
Thanks for this Capn. I drive from New Orleans to Chicago and back routinely. I usually can make the last station in Missou
Lok on Ebay and find alternative sources for another motor if you eventually need one. Vern Diesel bought one and now has over 300,000 on the replacement...maybe 400,000 miles.

You want to get a new motor soon - run it out of fuel. Seriously. The CP4 fuel pump in the Ecodiesel will shred its' cam lobes right fast if not lubricated with fuel. Shocked you have not already torn it apart, sent metal through the injector lines into the injectors and already trashed your motor. Another issue is even running the fuel in the tank below 1/4 tank. That heats up and destroys the lift pump in the tank. That alone is a major headache and expense.

Stop it and never run with less than 1/4 tank. NEVER.
Thanks, Capn. I drive from New Orleans to Chicago area and back routinely. I make it to the last stop in Missouri (Boomland) heading north and fill up but I am running on vapors. Won't do this again ever.
 

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Best option would be some type of hybrid from the 3rd gen improvements matched to whats needed to work with 2nd gen ECU and components. For further power improvements look at the Maserati exhaust manifolds that are stainless steel double formed and the ceramic bearing turbo. You can find these from ebay.uk or ebay.de

Maybe a 3rd gen engine with your fuel pump and emissions (0r not).
 
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I have considered replacement options for the Ecodiesel. Several factors combine to make any sort of swap pretty difficult. I assume you are not in a state or county that does emissions checks that would prohibit a motor swap. Mechanically the truck can fit anything. However, the interconnected systems in any new vehicle make it very difficult to swap motor types. It is one thing to replace a 5.7 Hemi with a tuned 6.4 Hemi, for example. This mostly involves some ECU tuning and tweaking but it is a similar motor type and family. Going to a different motor family and especially a different fuel type would be a nightmare. Just trying to sort out the wiring for sensors and then retune the ECU for different values would be a complete pain for anyone who is not a software programmer and / or does not have access to tuning software for the FCA ECU. To get a 4cyl Cummins to work when the factory ECU is for a 6cyl is not really feasible. You would have to replace the ECU with one for the Cummins. The truck would then probably not even try to start since many of the other computers in the car, especially the instrument cluster, are designed to work with and talk to the factory ECU. I doubt it is possible for the home mechanic unless one has limitless budget to hire experts to solve specific computer problems (like CAN communications). A shop like Diesel Brothers might have the resources to get everything to work again, Of course if you are ok with a truck that moves but has a bunch of interior features that don't work right or error codes then you can make anything work, just run the motor and trans on a separate ECU and wiring harness.

There is a local guy here who has a business building 1970s Ford trucks with 12-valve Cummins motors. Everything is simple because there is no computer in the car, just mechanical connections. This is not true for anything built after the mid-90's. While 1980s-90s cars had computers the systems were not yet integrated, so you could replace one part of the car without worrying about something else being affected.

My finding after looking at various options is that the only real option is to replace the ED with another ED, either new or used. A new one is $7,000 on line all day and gets you a factory 100K mile warranty when installed by a certified tech. Some dealers want to charge $10-12K for just the motor and another $3K to install. This is a non-starter for me. I don't see too many used ED's around and some sellers are asking $5-7K for the motor, also ridiculous considering the price of a new one. Given the constant reliability problems of my ED (has been in the shop ~8 months of the 16 months i have owned it) if i could find one for $2-3K i might buy it and sit on it until i need it.

This board seems to be THE resource for Ecodiesel expertise and i have appreciated the information I have gathered here. If you want to swap in a used motor yourself you can probably do it. Pull the front clip off and take the motor out the front and you can do it at home. Alternatively pay someone $10K for a new motor and install and get a factory 100K warranty. Much cheaper than a new vehicle if the rest of your truck is good. I love my 2015 Laramie so would actually consider this route.
 

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the only real option is to replace the ED with another ED, either new or used. A new one is $7,000 on line all day and gets you a factory 100K mile warranty when installed by a certified tech.
When you say a new engine for $7K, does that come with the injectors, turbo, and CP4?
 

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..

There is a local guy here who has a business building 1970s Ford trucks with 12-valve Cummins motors. Everything is simple because there is no computer in the car, just mechanical connections. This is not true for anything built after the mid-90's. While 1980s-90s cars had computers the systems were not yet integrated, so you could replace one part of the car without worrying about something else being affected.
Yeah computers , a buddy of mine is building a 1954 Ford Pick up ,
and putting in all the stuff from a Police Pack Crown Victoria , Engine , Transmission , and differential, almost finished .
I could not believe the over 80 pounds worth of wiring harnesses needed to bring data from all over the vehicule to the ECU ,
2 full boxes . changing from a ECO to something else would be a puzzle worth a lot more than getting another ECO engine.
 

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When you say a new engine for $7K, does that come with the injectors, turbo, and CP4?
Not completely clear from the pictures. Looks like turbo yes (should be!) but can't tell injectors from the picture. Ad says "complete running motor" but also "some parts may need to be swapped..."

This one just has a drawing. My discussion with the dealer was that the turbo was included but we didn't get down to discussing fuel rails, etc. I assume those are included since this is the Ram part number my dealer ordered and i assume Ram does not want the techs to be screwing wiht old fuel system parts on a new motor that they have to warranty for 100K miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thank you All for the great suggestions. I think Ill do the full delete when the last of my warranties expires in the next year or so. In the meantime Im sure the GDE tune has helped keep my engine healthy. I know Ive abused it and abused it and its still ticking. Ive actually run it out of gas at least 4-5 times, and never refill until I get down to about 50 miles DTE. I routinely haul anywhere from 2000 to as much as 4000 pounds in the bed. Last week I hauled a 3500 pound pallet of roof tile about 100 miles. I know. I know. Its like russian roulette. I even have the air suspension and havent had anything break down....yet.
Just recovered my cloth seats with the Katzkin leathers with the camo inserts. Loving this truck more and more. Ill definitely be educating myself in the near future about the ecodiesel crate motor. Much cheaper option than getting back into a payment for a 2021, 2022 or whatever.
 

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When I bought my new crate motor it came with new high pressure fuel pump, injectors, turbo, and a 24 month unlimited mileage warranty. That was a good 24 months for me as I put on 260k and never got to use the warranty. The truck did benefit from having both GDE engine & transmission tunes. Also religious use of tow haul feature & 30k changing of the Mopar combo fuel filter water separator.
 
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When you say a new engine for $7K, does that come with the injectors, turbo, and CP4?
Hi all.
A month ago purchased a complete running engine from moparpowertrain.com mentioned in post #16. Came as a complete unit, full of coolant, oil, oil filter. They did run it on a stand. Only thing I had to add is turbo elbow that has Nox sensor in it.
Took me 3 days to swap it, ran now for 500 miles, no issues.
They didn't charge tax or freight, didn't take deposit/CORE. Just paid $6950 and got an engine at my door. In my opinion best this was best deal that I could get. Plus my truck was already deleted, so I got few parts to sell to get some money back.
86767
 

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Hi all.
A month ago purchased a complete running engine from moparpowertrain.com mentioned in post #16. Came as a complete unit, full of coolant, oil, oil filter. They did run it on a stand. Only thing I had to add is turbo elbow that has Nox sensor in it.
Took me 3 days to swap it, ran now for 500 miles, no issues.
They didn't charge tax or freight, didn't take deposit/CORE. Just paid $6950 and got an engine at my door. In my opinion best this was best deal that I could get. Plus my truck was already deleted, so I got few parts to sell to get some money back.
You're right, that is a great deal! You should start installing engines on the side! I would have you do mine when the time comes!
 
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