[ajb3015]

Sorry to hear you had this issue and it got your DEF system too. When you think about it, it really isn't strange that we would all have the same issue; they used what appear to be grade 2 hardware which doesn't do well with corrosion to begin with, and is even worse when you add in heat cycles (hot, cold, hot, cold). Once the corrosion and heat do their thing, it takes almost no force to break the bolts. it's not a question of if they will snap, but when. For those of us with '14 to '16 trucks with the AEM, this would be covered by that warranty. unfortunately your truck doesn't have that.

A class action suit would be a huge undertaking, but since this has the potential to affect emissions (exhaust leak before the SCR and the potential to damage the DEF system), you could start by contacting the law firm that is handling the AEM suit. They would probably be happy to get the EPA involved and start a new suit

 

[ehart814]

Just crawled under my truck, and I have two broken bolts on that flange. What are the chances the dealer service department would have been able to diagnose the whistle in 10 seconds like I just did, thanks to this forum? LOL

 

[17RAMeco]

The exact same issue has just happened to my 2017 eco with 65000 miles. Check engine light and “def service see dealer” message. Looked under the truck and saw all 3 bolts have snapped on the exhaust flex flange, which in turned melted the wiring that is right next to it. After reading through others comments here I am seeing this is obviously a manufacturer defect. Waiting at the dealer now to see what they say.

 

[TexRam]

The exact same issue has just happened to my 2017 eco with 65000 miles. Check engine light and “def service see dealer” message. Looked under the truck and saw all 3 bolts have snapped on the exhaust flex flange, which in turned melted the wiring that is right next to it. After reading through others comments here I am seeing this is obviously a manufacturer defect. Waiting at the dealer now to see what they say.

Same deal, 56k miles on a 2016 Eco. The dealership is covering all but $250 worth of parts but they're backordered on the DEF injector wire harness so it'll be a couple weeks. I tried looking on mopar for a part # with no luck because I was curious. Is it correct to assume that it's part of a larger system like the chassis wiring or did I just fail to find the right part? Thanks!

 

[biodiesel]

I keep hoping that my studs break. I would love a new DPF covered under warranty.

 

[namretsud]

Well I've joined the club of snapped bolts. Coming back from camping I started to hear a whistling around a 3k rpm area shift. From reading the forum from before, I knew right where to check. Sure enough, I have one bolt snapped. I will replace it with grade 8 hardware and cut the other 2 out 1 at a time and replace them too. 2015 with almost 65k kms.

 

[MAS]

Man gonna change my oil tonight and give mine a look.

 

[wbdavey]

Mine are perfect! 2014 with 83,000 miles. I'm a snow bird so the truck has never lived in a salted roads environment. I tow a 7X14 cargo trailer about 3,000 miles a year. The rest of the driving is normal around town, short trips to the city type commutes. This may not help find the cause of the failures, but my experience would seem to rule out age and heat cycles. Just my opinion.

 

[namretsud]

Well the job is done. I ended up with chisels, air hammer, punch, 2 1/2 # hammer, titanium drill bits and finally cobalt bits to drill the old studs out and a lot of blue air. Once all was drilled out I secured it with 3/8 bolts. I tried to get either grade 8 or stainless bolts but neither were available. I will upgrade at a later date now that the job has been simplified. Another design screwup Fiat/Ram. I got lucky as well. As I was working on removing the first stud on the drivers side, the upper one on the passenger side went. There wasn't much fresh metal left on it. Now no worries for a while, fingers crossed.

 

[Ecosparky]

Well the job is done. I ended up with chisels, air hammer, punch, 2 1/2 # hammer, titanium drill bits and finally cobalt bits to drill the old studs out and a lot of blue air. Once all was drilled out I secured it with 3/8 bolts. I tried to get either grade 8 or stainless bolts but neither were available. I will upgrade at a later date now that the job has been simplified. Another design screwup Fiat/Ram. I got lucky as well. As I was working on removing the first stud on the drivers side, the upper one on the passenger side went. There wasn't much fresh metal left on it. Now no worries for a while, fingers crossed.

Great job Dusterman. Most are finding it easiest by using heat and then hammering the old studs out.

 

[namretsud]

The only heat I had access to is a propane torch and I had the front of the truck on ramps and lying on my back to do this. My old body was feeling it later in the evening.

 

[DANIELITO]

I've heard of a couple other owners with this problem. I think it's some sort of flaw with the bolts or some undue stress being put on the flange causing the bolts to snap (not corrosion). I'm going to start inspecting mine at every oil change. It looks like the exhaust leak melted the DEF line. If those bolts hadn't snapped, there wouldn't have been the DEF issues. Good luck with the repair. I was thinking of buying the Maxcare warranty, but your experience gives me pause.

HI, my case was corrosion the nuts
and bolts from the exhaust flange were literally toasted

 

[Ecosparky]

HI, my case was corrosion the nuts
and bolts from the exhaust flange were literally toasted

.....and the studs were undersized from the factory.

 

[UHBrandt]

Hi All,

So after a lot (more than normal) mechanical repairs to my 2016 Laramie EcoDiesel (96K miles) such as blown engine at 50k, leaking EGR, Blown courtesy light bulb assy, jammed elect steering rack, if figured it made sense to buy the "bumper to Bumper' extended warranty.

A month back, I received to dash msg "DEF issue, Your Truck will not start after XX miles, see Dealer .."
dropped it off at my favorite dealer who has always done right by me. A month later after waiting 2 plus weeks for the Extended Warrantee adjuster to inspect parts and another 2 weeks for his answer that "No, its due to corrosion ... not covered ...", Please pay $4500+ to fix the melted DEF feed line, melted DEF injector and replace the $300+ DEF tank. I finally took my truck back t fix it myself.

Once on the lift I see the 3 broken SS flange studs, and the melted feed pipe and injector, not sure why I need a new DEF tank.

My problem with the adjusters diagnosis is that the Studs weren't corroded as he stated, they are snapped/broken. How is 3 broken flange bolt qualified as "corrosion" to justify denying my $4500 claim???

So, for now I am replacing 3 SS flange bolts, the Injector & nozzle as well as the DEF feed line, not the Tank.

Does anyone know if the Feed line which is sold separately can be replaced onto the Tank without replacing the tank?

Is anyone else seeing snapped flange studs?

Part #s are:

68161471-AG Feed Line
68232842-AD Injector
6104384-AA Bolts
52029737-AI Tank (not replacing)

View attachment 84200

View attachment 84201

View attachment 84202

Yup. Very common problem.

For my truck, and for many others, the metal flange gasket started to chirp at varying engine RPM. Not knowing intially what the problem was I suspected a turbo issue.

Fortunately, I was crawling under the truck looking for what was wrong with my DEF system (same message as you had seen) and saw the gap in the flange and the issue with the bolts along with a melted injector. I had to get a new def injector and the tubing (it fits onto the tank,) and a used wiring harness clip (pig tail.) The sad part is the clip is part of an entire engine harness assembly and FCA will not sell it separately. I had to go to a wrecker to retrieve it and splice it in.

For the flange studs I drilled them out and replaced them with grade 6 bolts along with a new metal flange gasket.

My turbo chirp also disappeared….,, surprise!

Two things about this really get me PO’d.

1). When I asked the dealership parts guy for the pig tail - he proceeded to explain how the wiring/computer system is so sensitive that it would not work properly if I spliced in a pig tail and that I needed to replace the whole harness. Total Bull Shit of course - if our trucks are so sensitive that 1 ohm deviation in resistance in the harness will cause a malfunction then the trucks would stop working within hours after leaving the assembly line.

2). The turbo chirp. After reading the Forum over many months, there are several truck owners who have had their turbos replaced first (usually under warranty) by their dealership (stealership) before finding out that the flange studs and the burned out gasket are the real issue behind the turbo chirp or whine. Huge waste of time and money, if done under warranty FCA pays and the. we all pay with higher new truck costs.

PS. I do most of the work on my truck myself - it is cheaper and not as insane.

 

[Jacobsën]

Will the dealer cover this at this point? I got a 2015 eco with 195k...

 

[HYDREX]

Will the dealer cover this at this point? I got a 2015 eco with 195k...

With 195,000 miles, it would surprise me. It's about 1 hour to replace the bolts. To remove the bolts, try heating them very hot, spray just the bolt with water and knock out with a hammer and punch. I used WD 40 to spray the bolts and it worked. By cooling the bolt while flange is red hot, bolt shrinks and easily comes out. Otherwise you'll have to drill em out. I ran a 3/8" drill thru then used 3 grade 8 bolts to replace.

 

[Bounty Hunter]

Will the dealer cover this at this point? I got a 2015 eco with 195k...

They replaced the DPF on my '16 due to broken studs at 130k miles. I was still under the AEM warranty.

If you take it to the dealer, remember that DPF replacement is the proper fix. The studs are one with the DPF, not a separate part number.

 

[Jacobsën]

They replaced the DPF on my '16 due to broken studs at 130k miles. I was still under the AEM warranty.

If you take it to the dealer, remember that DPF replacement is the proper fix. The studs are one with the DPF, not a separate part number.

Thanks for the info, am I out of the a e m warranty with 195 okay? I bet I am. The service lady that answered the phone said there was no way to know what was covered without a $75 service fee. That sounds like total bullshit they should know whether I am or am not in or out of warranty at 195k. She said there's no way I can speak with a technician and that it was a big rigmarole for them to come out of the shop to have a conversation even though they're usually not busy at all when I go in for recall work.

 

[Old Iron 1978]

My local diesel shop told me when they were talking to Chrysler regarding the SCR flex pipe it was covered under warranty, but for us Canucks, it expires after 8 years or 150,000. So i was already at 185,000 km's. I had to foot the bill myself. Not specifically for the bolts, but my flex pipe rotted away...which is apparently an issue for 2014 and 2015 MY trucks. I only noticed my bolts broken after getting a warning light. I temporarily fixed mine so that I wouldn't melt anything DEF related.

see thread:

P1691 and P1692 codes

Hey all. Heading up to the family cottage for a week, halfway into the 3 hour drive I get that nasty ding and the check engine light goes on. No difference in driveability. Continued on to the final destination. Checked the codes and it gives the P1691 and P1692. Very limited I formation...

www.ram1500diesel.com

 

[Ecosparky]

Pretty sure the Canadian emissions warranty was 3yr 60,000km. I was out of this warranty at 14 months after purchase new when my egr cooler cracked at 70,000kms. FCA said tough titty.