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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I changed my fuel filter for the first time today. I opened the water drain petcock then removed the filter. New filter went in, new o-ring ob (fit snugly), then did 4 KOEO cycles of letting the fuel pump run until it shut off. I chose 4 because it’s double what the manual recommends and I’m paranoid about the cp4.2. The fuel pump ran for roughly the same length of time on KOEO cycles 2-4. After that, three times of starting it up and letting it run began with an extended crank of roughly triple the time it normally takes to crank. When it was idling, I had ~3900psi in the fuel rails. I don’t know why this extended crank would happen. Oh, and no leaks from the filter assembly after install. Anyone have any insight?
 

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Hi: djevox... I've had the fuel filter changed in my 2016 at least 3 times so far, and still have the same "Old crank"!!! Starts much quicker these days when its plugged in.
Dieseldragon North shore of Lake Erie.
 

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2016 Laramie Limited Crew Cab 4x4 with Deleted Air Suspension and GDE Hot Tune. 276,000 KM.
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I'm guessing your lift pump is not holding prime for some reason. The only time I had an extended crank was when my lift pump failed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Did the short drive fix your issue ?? If not, Ecosparky brought up a good point.
Thanks everyone! No, I left last night and won’t be back around it until tomorrow. It’s a ‘22 and only has 20k mi on it. This is the first extended crank, and it was right after I changed the filter (full tank of gas from my regular shell station and EDT at every fillup). I’ll drive it for a while tomorrow and see what happens.

My biggest concern here is the cavation in the cp4. I feel like I’ll be walking on eggshells after this.
 

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Thanks everyone! No, I left last night and won’t be back around it until tomorrow. It’s a ‘22 and only has 20k mi on it. This is the first extended crank, and it was right after I changed the filter (full tank of gas from my regular shell station and EDT at every fillup). I’ll drive it for a while tomorrow and see what happens.

My biggest concern here is the cavation in the cp4. I feel like I’ll be walking on eggshells after this.
First problem is it has gas in it lol.

I don't know about 3rd Gen, but I don't mess with the drain plug on my 2nd Gen. Just put a gallon ziploc over the filter housing and remove it.

If the long crank continues, see your dealer, take full use of that warranty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
First problem is it has gas in it lol.

I don't know about 3rd Gen, but I don't mess with the drain plug on my 2nd Gen. Just put a gallon ziploc over the filter housing and remove it.

If the long crank continues, see your dealer, take full use of that warranty.
I read on here about that issue on the 2nd gen canisters. Hopefully that water drain petcock isn’t sucking air. I did order a spare oem filter today, so if this continues, I might change out the o-ring for another, then change the entire canister as a last step before sending it to the dealer. IIRC, my wholesale cost on the entire filter housing was ~$60. To me, that’s a small price to pay to not have to talk to the service dept.
 

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2015 Outdoorsman EcoD CC w/6.4' 4X4
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I read on here about that issue on the 2nd gen canisters. Hopefully that water drain petcock isn’t sucking air. I did order a spare oem filter today,
The fuel filter drain valve and housing won't suck air, it will leak as it's under pressure from the in tank fuel pump.
What issue with the 2ndGen canisters?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The fuel filter drain valve and housing won't suck air, it will leak as it's under pressure from the in tank fuel pump.
What issue with the 2ndGen canisters?
I’m starting to question myself on whether I read it here or on ecodieselrams forums, but people were talking about having issues with the water drain. I saw mentions of brass replacements being used and that same person claiming it was sucking air. The whole sucking air thing doesn’t make sense to me, but I haven’t dug into my mitchell1 stuff on this truck to know that it’s not legitimate.
 

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2016 SLT 4x4 Quadcab 3.53 with a cap
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What Crash68 said, it's a pressurized system, if the drain was not sealed it would be whizzing out diesel every time you turned the key to run, the brass replacement was just something some people used to enable easier draining of the filter housing during filter change.
 

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It's recommended to "prime the fuel pump" before starting the engine after a fuel filter change. Just turn the key to the 'ON' position, wait 20-30 sec, then 'OFF'. Do this 2-3 times before starting the engine. (You should be able to hear the fuel pump running when the key is in the 'ON' position, and then hear it shut off.) Should start right up!
 

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It's recommended to "prime the fuel pump" before starting the engine after a fuel filter change. Just turn the key to the 'ON' position, wait 20-30 sec, then 'OFF'. Do this 2-3 times before starting the engine. (You should be able to hear the fuel pump running when the key is in the 'ON' position, and then hear it shut off.) Should start right up!
Yes this is correct. The OP stated he did this 4 times after changing the fuel filter.
 

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@djevox, you sound like you're as detailed oriented as I am. People like us notice the little details (sounds, vibrations, etc.) more so than others and we sometimes magnify them. With that said, I also feel like my 2015 and 2020 EcoDiesels have longer extended crank times than should be after each fuel filter change. And if it makes you feel any better, I cycle the lift pump 5 times before I start the truck. I still have a good 3 second crank time before it fires up. Once the truck has been started, I no longer experience the extended crank times until the next time I change the fuel filter. I'm guessing what you're experiencing is normal, but it seems abnormal to you and me!
 
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