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Discussion Starter #1
Greetings from Jacksonville, NC. I recently retired from the Marine Corps and decided to treat myself to a new truck. Not going to lie, I was a little hesitant about making the jump to an ecodiesel as my knowledge of diesel motors in general is pretty limited. Been reading through the forum for a while and been seeing mixed reviews as far as durability, mainly with the EGR and soot buildup, but like many others, I plan to help remedy that with a tune. Only had the new to me truck for a week now, and I love the damn thing. Even with all the nay-sayers. Owned a 2004 Ram 1500 with the 5.7 Hemi, and I loved that truck as well. (Main reason I stuck with Ram). Never had a issue with her, except for the fact that it was a 2WD. For what I do, thats not really an issue, but it is really embarrassing when I had to call AAA to pull me out of my own front yard. Now I have the 2018 Big Horn and like I said, I love the truck, and it's nice to know it's still covered under warranty. Right now it only has 14,500 miles on her, but the plan is to make this girl work!
 

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Here, try this. Run about 150,000 miles in the next few years and report back.

Enjoy the ride and welcome to the forum.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Here, try this. Run about 150,000 miles in the next few years and report back.

Enjoy the ride and welcome to the forum.
Lol. That is the current plan. So far so good. Working on some minor cosmetic upgrades for now. I'm a little washy on messing with mechanical stuff while under warranty.
 

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Best thing you can do for the truck is install an aftermarket ECM tune. Keep the stock ECM for use during dealer visits. Check out HD Diesel for a tune to turn off the EGR.

I've had warranty work completed on my truck a few times with the tune installed, but it's risky as the dealership could overwrite the tune by simply updating the ECM. This is when the 15min ECM swap comes in handy.
 

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Best thing you can do for the truck is install an aftermarket ECM tune. Keep the stock ECM for use during dealer visits. Check out HD Diesel for a tune to turn off the EGR.

I've had warranty work completed on my truck a few times with the tune installed, but it's risky as the dealership could overwrite the tune by simply updating the ECM. This is when the 15min ECM swap comes in handy.
I appreciate the info. I understand the regular tune turns off the EGR, but is that sufficient for now? I know some people talk about doing a tune and EGR delete, I'm assuming thats better than just tune, but if the tune alone turns off the EGR, is it really necessary to do a delete as well? What advantage does removing the EGR give, if it's already deactivated?
 

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@ Godzilla , tune turns of the EGR electronically , preventing it to send soot to intake manifold , but coolant and exhaust still flows thru EGR ,
over time heat stress develops cracks in the EGR , uniting portions that are suppose not to be united , sending coolant
in wrong places , or exhaust pressure in cooling system , more than one way for EGRs to fail .
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  • just tune
  • open hood and monitor coolant level in purple degas bottle
  • only when coolant level starts to drop do you then have to make a decision on the EGR
- we are all ( 2014 to 2019 ) getting new beefier EGRs with the recall in couple months ,
----( wait for that Recall work , then get a tune , unless you keep stock module for dealer visit , including the EGR Recall )
recall removing EGR will mean a lot less EGR failures if FCA installs a better EGR , even less for tuned trucks .

P.S. the tune changes a lot more parameters than just turning off EGR .
 

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Godzilla, thanks for your service and congrats on both the retirement and new truck. Remember that a lot what you see in forums are the poeple having issues. You can still tune but most of the US based companies are in limbo due to an EPA crack down. You'll probably have to go north to keep off the EPA list when they catch up with the smaller tuners. As mentioned above, order a tuned ECM and swap them when you have to go to the dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the info yall. Really appreciate it. I'm completely new to diesel vehicles, so this is all new to me. Short time I've been on this forum and I've already gained quite a bit of knowledge. Thanks again guys, yall are awesome.
 

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Godzilla , did you get to read on the subject of ; not going under 1/4 tank before fill-ups yet ???
 

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Godzilla , did you get to read on the subject of ; not going under 1/4 tank before fill-ups yet ???
I did not see that part, however I'm one of those people who starts to get nervous once my gauge reads half tank. I typically dont go below that unless I'm on a long trip and even then I usually stop and top off at quarter tank.
 

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Honestly, I think you are better off doing your own oil and filter and fuel filter changes yourself. Just do some searching here. Some good youtube videos. Owner's manual has some good advice as to the idle time before shutting your diesel off, as well. I cringe when I see a Cummins, Duramax, Powerstroke owner shut their trucks off hot with no idle down time. I find that owning a diesel has made me more patient, haha.
 

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I did not see that part, however I'm one of those people who starts to get nervous once my gauge reads half tank.........
Then you were already OK ,
Basically ; the pump inside your fuel tank sends fuel to high pressure fuel pump ( HPFP ) under the hood VIA the fuel filter ,
the HPFP pressurises the fuel to up to 29,000 psi to feed injectors via the fuel rails , that pressurisation gets fuel hot ,
whatever fuel not used by engine is returned to fuel tank , the pump in the fuel tank ( lift pump ) is cooled by the fuel
itself, under 1/4 , cooling of lift pump not optimal...
there are rubbers on that lift pump that are best to be submerged in fuel , running lower than 1/4 often will result ,
over time , in less fuel pressure to feed HPFP on start-ups , longer cranking , up to 20 seconds ,
and if HPFP is starved , it grenades , ===> +/- $12,000 bill .

one tidbit of info at a time ,,,,:giggle:
 
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