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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have had the recall done replaceing the EGR cooler, about 10000 miles ago. 2017 1500 . Anyway started to lose milage, I decieded to pull the EGR pipe like I would do before the new cooler. The pipe and intake was full of the gelled carbon again, I assume this means the new cooler is leaking coolant into the intake again??
Also have the EPA approved tune from GDE installed
Please advise
Thanks
 

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I have had the recall done replaceing the EGR cooler, about 10000 miles ago. 2017 1500 . Anyway started to lose milage, I decieded to pull the EGR pipe like I would do before the new cooler. The pipe and intake was full of the gelled carbon again, I assume this means the new cooler is leaking coolant into the intake again??
Also have the EPA approved tune from GDE installed
Please advise
Thanks
Notice any drop in coolant level?

You will still see carbon deposits, although it should be greatly reduced after the GDE tune.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Nope no drop in coolant level that I can tell, I ust the seam in the tank to keep an eye on it. There was 1/4
" to 1/2" of wet carbon inside of the manifold and the pipe had probablt 1/8" coating all around, thicker towards the manifold. the deposits were as much if not more than I had with the old leaking cooler. I just looked op the records and the cooler was replaced 3000 miles ago, and the manifold and tube were clean then, I checked them myself after getting it back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
also I thought they would be reduced with the tune also, the reason I supected somthing is my winter mileage went from 27+ to 21 and I was using a lot of DEF, Now after cleaning it is back to 27+ again so that would tell me the swirl valves were not working
 

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Pretty sure cleaning the diffuser tube will not correct the swirl valves not operating but someone may correct me. If they are not operating it us usually because they are clogged with soot and the only way of getting at them to clean them is by removing the intake manifold.
 

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also I thought they would be reduced with the tune also, the reason I supected somthing is my winter mileage went from 27+ to 21 and I was using a lot of DEF, Now after cleaning it is back to 27+ again so that would tell me the swirl valves were not working
my mileage in winter craters. My last fillup was HC at 16.9 mpg. IT does this every winter, the colder the worse it gets. Come spring, all is fine, as I suspect yours is too.
 

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The winter fuel mix does cause a drop for me usually around 1 - 3 mpg for me running the stock tune but i'm sure it varies.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Pretty sure cleaning the diffuser tube will not correct the swirl valves not operating but someone may correct me. If they are not operating it us usually because they are clogged with soot and the only way of getting at them to clean them is by removing the intake manifold.
I was able to get the most of it out of the manifold plus I let the cleaner soak in it for a while. I have had to do this before
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You removed the intake manifold to clean it?
NO !!!! I did not remove the manifold, if you do you have to replace some fuel lines and other parts that are very expensive. no I cleaned what I could see then sprayed Carb cleaner in there onto the swirl valves and the whole inside of the upper manifold then just let it soak, Note it will be hard to start after doing this for the first time
 

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NO !!!! I did not remove the manifold, if you do you have to replace some fuel lines and other parts that are very expensive. no I cleaned what I could see then sprayed Carb cleaner in there onto the swirl valves and the whole inside of the upper manifold then just let it soak, Note it will be hard to start after doing this for the first time
I would be inclined to change the oil after doing this. BTW, deleted my EGR cooler at 105,000 miles, all but 5,000 ,iles with old GDE tune, the diffuser tube was surprisingly clean .
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I have had the recall done replaceing the EGR cooler, about 10000 miles ago. 2017 1500 . Anyway started to lose milage, I decieded to pull the EGR pipe like I would do before the new cooler. The pipe and intake was full of the gelled carbon again, I assume this means the new cooler is leaking coolant into the intake again??
Also have the EPA approved tune from GDE installed
Please advise
Thanks
So to follow up on the swirl's valves not working, I bought the flushing tool like BG has and used Wynn's induction cleaning fluid for diesels. flushed the intake from 2 different spots, one where the pipe goes in and the other where the intake air temp sensor is. The tool comes with a lot of adaptors for this, except I had to make the plates for the egr pipe, both ends. After this procedure is done you should drive the truck untill a regeneration cycle has completed, you can tell this by the exhaust temp if you have the gauge or obd tool that will show live data. It really cleaned it good, there was a lot of carbon out the tail pipes after words.
Now I see this is recomened as a normal service procedure, not sure how often they recomend, I would imagine it would be on a visual inspection. The dealers are charging around $900. for this. After all is bought and done it cost me about $150.
Here is a link to the tool. If you do not know what you are doing I do not recomend that a novice do this procedure.....you can destroy your engine real fast if you do not know how to do this.

/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have the WiTech software and it opens and closes the valves without having a subscription.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So to follow up on the swirl's valves not working, I bought the flushing tool like BG has and used Wynn's induction cleaning fluid for diesels. flushed the intake from 2 different spots, one where the pipe goes in and the other where the intake air temp sensor is. The tool comes with a lot of adaptors for this, except I had to make the plates for the egr pipe, both ends. After this procedure is done you should drive the truck untill a regeneration cycle has completed, you can tell this by the exhaust temp if you have the gauge or obd tool that will show live data. It really cleaned it good, there was a lot of carbon out the tail pipes after words.
Now I see this is recomened as a normal service procedure, not sure how often they recomend, I would imagine it would be on a visual inspection. The dealers are charging around $900. for this. After all is bought and done it cost me about $150.
Here is a link to the tool. If you do not know what you are doing I do not recomend that a novice do this procedure.....you can destroy your engine real fast if you do not know how to do this.

/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have the WiTech software and it opens and closes the valves without having a subscription.
The first link did not work

 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
This tool says for gasoline engines only!!!!! but it will work for low pressure cleaning such as an intake manifold, DO NOT TRY TO FLUSH OR CLEAN INJECTORS ON ANY DIESEL WITH THIS TOOL !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1
 

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If your pushing carbon out the tailpipes you just poisoned your dpf and scr good luck going forward. Should do an oil change as well since it’s probably in your oil as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
If your pushing carbon out the tailpipes you just poisoned your dpf and scr good luck going forward. Should do an oil change as well since it’s probably in your oil as well.
poisoned nothing, that is why you drive to regenerate raising the exhaust temp to over 1200 degrees. After the cleaner goes thru it softens the carbon deposits so they burn out. That is basically what bunker C oil is. Even if it did not the carbon is much softer than any steel in the combustion chamber.
Every one has their own opinion on this subject, I chose to do it this way and have had no problems.
 

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poisoned nothing, that is why you drive to regenerate raising the exhaust temp to over 1200 degrees. After the cleaner goes thru it softens the carbon deposits so they burn out. That is basically what bunker C oil is. Even if it did not the carbon is much softer than any steel in the combustion chamber.
Every one has their own opinion on this subject, I chose to do it this way and have had no problems.
That is not how regen works and carbon is extremely hard, diamonds are made of carbon. Also regens works best between 800-1200 F and thats post doc temps not pre.
 

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In my experience, not everything should cost you a boat load of money for diagnostics at the Dealership. My first move for anybody with suspected exh. system problems is HotShot Secret diesel extreme and a good 200 km run on the hwy. If you are like me and you barely get the engine up to temperature and probably shut down half way through a regen, sensors can become covered in soot because they don't get hot enough to clear soot with high sustained exh. temperature. I don't have anything to do with HotShot Secret but if you can afford it and want peace of mind I would follow the HotShot program, diesel extreme every 6 months and EDT every day. I would also unplug the EGR in the closed position, plug a reader in and when the EGR is at 0% open shut the truck off and unplug the EGR. I had my EGR unplugged for 6 months it made a noticeable difference in acceleration, I could actually hear my Turbo spool up. Plugged my EGR back in and lost acceleration and zero Turbo noise. For those that don't know the Turbo charger is a great indication of the health of an engine, if you are loosing boost there is something wrong. Basically loose boost loose power incrementally.
 

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