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Discussion Starter #1
About to do the first oil change later today.. Switching out to a Fumoto also. Any tips or tricks anyone can share?.. Should I prime it at all before starting the truck back up?.. etc?


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Nothing special. Just make sure you use the correct parts and you're good to go.

 
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Just drain the oil like normal let it drain for about 15 minutes until you are down to a drip, these engines can be slow draining from the upper end.

The oil filter is easy and not messy, just unscrew the cap, now you did not state the year of the truck but my understanding is the new 3rd gen ecodiesel oil filter comes with the cap as one piece, if the 2nd gen ecodiesel just unscrew the cap and pull the oil filter out of the cap and plug the new oil filter into the cap and screw the cap back on.

Word of caution do not try and over tighten the oil filter cap or you could crack it, you do not have to tighten the cap like a gorilla the same with the drain plug when you install your new Fumoto drain plug do not tighten it like a gorilla.

Many people think gee it is oil so I better really crank down on the drain plug or the oil filter cap and end up over tightening them causing other problems down the road.

Add your new oil if by quart bottles by the time you are done you can start the truck as it will have drained down into the pan, just check the dip stick first to make sure the oil is reading on it. If you are adding oil from gallon jugs then you may have to wait a few minutes to make sure the oil drains down into the oil pan and again check the dip stick first.

It is a pretty easy and straight forward oil change on these engines.

If this is the very first oil change do not waste your time doing an oil sample because the engine is going to have wear in metals in the oil. You really should wait until the third or even forth oil change to wash out the wear in metals.
 

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One more thing you are not required to use an oil with the MOPAR Material Standard listed on it, the MS-10902 standard is only recommended not required. That MOPAR spec will be on the MOPAR brand oil and a handful of other oils maybe, it is how the manufacture tries to get you to use the dealer for all your service so they can up sell you other services.

You are required to use an oil that can meet the API CJ-4 or the new API CK-4 spec or the ACEA E7/E9 or the ACEA A3/B4 spec.

The API is an American spec while the ACEA specs are European specs. You don't have to find an oil that lists all of them just one of them example the oil is CK-4 rated that is all you need.

I am using Redline 15w-40 Group V Ester Synthetic Diesel oil in my Gen2 ecodiesel.

If you have the GEN3 engine then look at your owners manual for the correct API which I believe is going to be SN but confirm it, but again the API spec is what is required, the MOPAR material standard is only recommended.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
One more thing you are not required to use an oil with the MOPAR Material Standard listed on it, the MS-10902 standard is only recommended not required. That MOPAR spec will be on the MOPAR brand oil and a handful of other oils maybe, it is how the manufacture tries to get you to use the dealer for all your service so they can up sell you other services.

You are required to use an oil that can meet the API CJ-4 or the new API CK-4 spec or the ACEA E7/E9 or the ACEA A3/B4 spec.

The API is an American spec while the ACEA specs are European specs. You don't have to find an oil that lists all of them just one of them example the oil is CK-4 rated that is all you need.

I am using Redline 15w-40 Group V Ester Synthetic Diesel oil in my Gen2 ecodiesel.

If you have the GEN3 engine then look at your owners manual for the correct API which I believe is going to be SN but confirm it, but again the API spec is what is required, the MOPAR material standard is only recommended.
Using Amsoil European..


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Discussion Starter #7
Soooo.. first oil change in the books. Went pretty smooth. Made a mess with draining the oil around the bar. Installed the Fumoto valve. Went with the longer nipple and should have went with shorter one but still have a little room to slip on a tube for next time. Oil filter went on ok. Felt like I could have kept tightening it forever but got it pretty snug and gave up at some point. Didn’t want to risk cracking anything. Went and put in 2 Gallons, and then a half quart. Amsoil Euro 5w40. The last half quart I came up a little shy because I didn’t want to overfill. The dipstick sucks, but seems like the first third of crosshatching is covered. I will continue to check it and add a little more if needed. Engine sounds great so far. Honestly a little quieter maybe.. Thanks for all your help on here!


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1 thing that surprised me, I did do oil test at 5,000 miles on my 2017, new motors actually have some silicon residual from casting. Washed out mostly with first change, though. If you do the changes yourself, you know it was done correctly!
 
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