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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
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Someone was kind enough to post a pic of the stopcock on the drivers' side of the radiator on the bottom corner. I'm going to drain and refill my coolant system for reasons I mentioned on another thread. I'm making an assumption and would like to know if it's accurate. I'm assuming that cylindrical projection directly above the valve bolt is from where the coolant will drain? The mechanism is accessible only by blind reaching unless shrouds are removed, and I'd like to attach a hose to this and prevent the splashing of coolant on any surface other than the inside of the receptacle into which it's going to flow.

Thanks, all!
 

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The coolant drains out of the nipple on the bottom I just put a wash bucket underneath the truck. It drains slow so splashing is not a big ordeal also you wont get all of the coolant out just by using that. The easiest way to open the drain valve is by pulling the drivers side inner fender then its right there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The coolant drains out of the nipple on the bottom I just put a wash bucket underneath the truck. It drains slow so splashing is not a big ordeal also you wont get all of the coolant out just by using that. The easiest way to open the drain valve is by pulling the drivers side inner fender then its right there.
Thanks. By God. I hope you meant wheel well and not fender!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Just the plastic liner not the whole fender
Thanks. If I got appropriately sized hose and a "90," will coolant only come out from the bottom cylindrical nipple, or is the stopcock keyed like others, and will some coolant spill from there, too? I'd like to do this in my garage, and it's somewhat clean in there. If I had to mop the floor it wouldn't be the end of the world, but if I could contain everything, I'd prefer that. Don't mean to be a pain, but I'd like to hear from someone like yourself who has done this. And, BTW, did you remove your wheel-well shroud? I'm wondering if it's worth the hassle. I think that clips have to be removed by screwdrivers/prying, etc. Anything you could elaborate on? I appreciate your time.
 

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As Brokendownbutgood mentioned, this won't get all of the coolant out of the system. I don't know about this engine, but all the others that I have dealt with have drain plugs on the engine block. Personally, I would have the coolant flushed with one of the machines at a shop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks, all. I simply don't trust that service centers perform the work we pay for. Bitch of it is, though, that there is so little information out there on YouTube, Google or any other online resource about flushing the coolant on an ecodiesel. It's frustrating.
 

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The service manual would have the procedure and I believe that several people on this forum have access to the manuals. Don't ask me to remember who...
 
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The service manual would have the procedure and I believe that several people on this forum have access to the manuals. Don't ask me to remember who...
Thanks. At the risk of sounding like a complete idiot, didn't know such a book existed. I remember Chilton publications, but was unaware of any service manual for our truck. Wish it was in the owners' manual!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So I performed a compromise today that I'm satisfied with. I drained the radiator and degasser bottle and got 1.25 gal. coolant out of the system. I was reluctant to start the engine for fear that some indicator requiring a dealership to reset might trip. What came out looked brand new, thankfully.

Anyways, I had no more than 9 oz. of the wrong coolant in there, and today's exercise got 4 out, so I almost halved the amount of offending coolant. Everything remained the right color and temperatures remained normal throughout the time that Zerex was in the system.

I'm satisfied for now.

I'm glad I can take care of my brakes, oil changes, fuel filter changes and coolant. All said and done, about 85K miles and nary an issue.
 

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Does anyone know how much more coolant you can drain from the system by removing the lower hose vs the radiator drain port?
 

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Does anyone know how much more coolant you can drain from the system by removing the lower hose vs the radiator drain port?
emptied cooling system in 2019 , removing lower rad hose let out very little coolant
not worth it , coolant not drained from rad valve stayed in block somewhere , not worth the trouble .
if I remember correctly half a pint max .
..
here is thread where I had coolant bottle cap failure , and drained everything ,
then getting the venturi effect pump to refill everything ,
and others chime in with data like system holding 2.8 US gallons .
---
Mysterious coolant level going UP...
 

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As Brokendownbutgood mentioned, this won't get all of the coolant out of the system. I don't know about this engine, but all the others that I have dealt with have drain plugs on the engine block. Personally, I would have the coolant flushed with one of the machines at a shop.
The only thing should be flushed is a toilet.

Had Dealer do a coolant change. They must have flushed it cause 2 weeks later my heater core let go. Only do a drain and fill
 

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Well at 99177 miles I decided to change my coolant and radiator fill bottle.

I pulled the lower radiator hose and all the hoses off the radiator bottle.

I started the truck and tried to flush the engine block but couldn't get the thermostat hot enough to open (163°) after running 20 minutes with a water hose hooked up to the lower radiator hose.

So I changed the reservoir tank and reconnect all the hoses. Only able to put back 6 quarts of fluid. So I guess I didn't get all the fluid out of the engine.

I suppose I may just run it like this for awhile and then empty the radiator again a couple of times to dilute the remaining old antifreeze if necessary.
 

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After draining the radiator, there will still be quite a bit of coolant in the engine. I believe the lowest access point on these engines for coolant is the oil cooler, but some can also be drained from the passenger's side hoses for the EGR cooler and cabin heater.

If you want to completely drain the engine, the oil cooler will have to come off. I have yet to find a good way to avoid having a mix of oil and water when removing it, but my best attempt so far was by draining the oil and coolant, pulling the oil filter, and suctioning the oil out of the oil cooler before removing it. By doing this I was left with about 1/2 quart of coolant and about 8 oz of oil in the pan (after pulling the cooler).

I'm pretty big on recovering all fluids when I work on these things, so I wish they had put a drain plug at the bottom of the block somewhere. Maybe at some point, i will find a good spot to drill and tap one.
 

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I'm using the drain and fill method. Here's a picture of the old coolant at 93,000 miles vs new coolant. I do a lot of towing, so keep that in mind. The coolant analysis said the coolant was ready to be changed.


 
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