Sorry to say but sounds like a bearing failure. It's not unusual to not throw a code. What kind of K&N air filter? The oiled type could possibly void the warranty.

 

I'm holding my breath to see if they deny warranty because of the after market air filter. I know that doesn't make sense, but does anything they do?

 

Can you put the factory intake back on beforehand? (If you saved it)

 

First question would be what is the level of the oil?

 

Definitely sounds like a spun bearing must be a main bearing usually if a rod bearing spins you end up with catastrophic rod failure.

 

Seriously may sound nuts but I think a K&N filter or non spec oil would be as likely to cause alarm to FCA as a smartly done tune that retains factory safeties and likely saves them lots of warranty pay outs. Hope they take care of your tow a loaner and get you a fresh one quick.

 

I had a drop in K&N filter in my truck when I had it tuned at the GDE shop. When they saw I had the K&N, they said something to the effect that they are bad for the turbo and back pressure, and that they would put the OEM paper filter back in. I didn't quite understand the comment, but use the OEM now.

 

that's a main bearing. Bummer you restarted it, would've been interesting to get a photo of it without the complete destruction.

 

Oh, this one is close to home. Please keep us posted.

 

The filter? Really? I’ll freakin puke if that voids the warranty. I just put it in only a month ago!

 

Might want to get a Bucket handy.

 

Should've kept a spare paper filter handy.

Funny they're more likely to catch the K&N filter than they are the GDE tune.

 

Is it an oiled filter or dry filter? Dry filters are OK oiled are not, in turbo charged vehicles anyway.

 

While I agree I do not like them, there are thousands of people with hundreds of thousands of miles running a k&n or comparable filter on a diesel with no issues.

 

Keep us posted on what happens with your truck, sorry and good luck.

 

I dont know if is put that in the spun bearing category yet... The fact that it restarted with no knock doesnt fit. Misfires can sound like knocks. If he had an injector or two go down you could get these symptoms.

Did you refuel shortly before this?

 

Usually only a Rod bearing failure knocks ,AKA Rod knock ,this is because of the bearing failure created additional gap between the rod and crankshaft creating the knock effect.

When a main bearing spins you might hear a slight knock ,depending on which bearing spun middle or ends ,remember the crank bearings are supported by other main bearings , usually no movement to create a knock . Big giveaway when a main spins , Oil pressure dropping !!!!!!!

But our trucks do not have an oil pressure gauge, just a calculated value numbers, luckily when your oil hits 5psi low pressure a light will appear Kinda the same effect of closing the barn door after the horse is out ....The light would be helpful if the oil plug falls out ...

BTW .... GDE has a real oil pressure set up for the EcoDiesel, I’m a gauge type person,it’s not going to stop or even help prevent with an engine failure unless you have a plugged oil filter starting, just might be able to watch your oil pressure drop before your engine self destruct’s ..

 

IMO. the biggest issue with the K&N is user maintenance. Over or especially under oiled can cause issues. I used one on the 6.5TD for 15 years without any problems.

 

Aftermarket air intakes are the issue. If it is the same filter in the factory box, you should be fine. When that hood comes up it should look stock.

Keep us posted.

 

FWIW, I have about 13k miles towing heavy in western regions and no issues with a K&N. I have been reluctant to clean and oil due to fear it might cause a problem. If they claim that is the issue call K&N. I'm sure they will follow up.

 

I will never use a k&n ever again. This should open your eyes a bit.

https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2212017316301475/pdf?md5=d2f70e632c706b1c583eb769b594ce7a&pid=1-s2.0-S2212017316301475-main.pdf

 

Could not wait to share! After blowing my gasket and venting profusely in our shop,................The guys laughed, and said“ relax, you still have OEM in yours, that K & N went into a different service “ yes, I drank!

 

The bad publicity and stories you read about the EcoDiesel are minor compared bad test results etc. I've read about K&N wet filters. No offense to those using K&N products, but none of their stuff gets used on my engines. That includes my lawnmower....

 

All these speculation about oiled filters is interesting. The biggest issue with oiled filters is user maintaince if there not washed and dried completely the oil wont get absorbed into the filter, then it well get sucked right through and dirty the maf sensor. The turbo gets oil mist sucked through it consistently from our crap ccv system so no change there. Oil analysis well show if your air filter is working silicon levels well rise if the filter is not good enough. Personally I have been fighting high silicone levels ever since I had a new turbo installed. The tech didn’t tighten a couple clamps fully and it was sucking in some dirty air. Before that I never had high silicone levels and was running a K&N filter.

 

And i dont think its the oil in the filters thatbis bad for the turbo... Its the excess dirt it lets in the intake that the oem filters are able to remove.

 

Latest update: dealer calls, said the tech drove it around and could not reproduce the engine knock. Supposedly even drove on highway. No engine knock nothing. WTF??
So he says to me would you like us to rotate your tires? Maybe it was some sort of road noise. .WHAT?!?!?

No look, I’m no green horn! I’m 49 yrs old lived life to the red line. Built rods, trucks and countless bike engines you could drag race. I’ve raced motocross, hill climbs, raced bikes on the ice and road raced. Ive blown up plenty of motors of all kinds and rebuilt them. Like I said red line and beyond, WFO!!

Tire noise?!? Last time I checked that doesn’t tell the check engine light to come on. Anyway , the thing lost all power, started knocking and died. Waited restarted, let idle tried to drive it a bit, started knocking really loud no power and quit.

 

Hmmmm.

The check engine light will illuminate anytime with key on and engine off.

 

Check engine light came on when it was knocking the second time I started it.

 

double hmmmm. How did the tech get it started after it was DRT?

 

Most strange story I have read in a while. Knocking and dead do not cure themselves unless ... Divine intervention. Could be proof that it has happened?

Well then drive the snot out of the thing but stay close to home. Watch the oil pressure as you drive for any advanced warning.

 

Agree with the Captain, drive it like you stole it.

 

I have heard this kind of story before. Customer of mine had two blown engines on same ecod. Both times he could hear the knock long before she blew a rod out of the block. He dropped the truck of at dealer and they sent him on his way saying nothing wrong.

 

Pull that K&N filter if it makes you nervous and drive it like it's For Sale, but like Cap said don't stray too far from home. When it catastrophically fails then it's on them cause you brought it to them at the early warning signs, and they sent you home.

 

A clogged injector will produce vibration but not ugly noises. The cylinder will either not fire or fire with less energy.
I'd make sure my AAA membership is current and has lotsa tow miles.
And yeah pull the pos k&n and install a real filter

 

Anything that screws up the timing of ignition can make veru ugly noises.

An injector that sticks open or doesnt atomize well can advance or delay ignition creating a knock.

Check engine lights wont illuminate for a spun bearing until oil pressure drops or engine stalls.. The ecu is detecting some kind of ignition issue.

Im not convinced its a bearing. Those sounds dont go away once they start.