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All of the recalls were completed on mine. what is AEM?
There is a whole forum on the AEM recall. You need to read up. Basically, FCA did a Volkswagen. They cheated with the emissions system on the ED and got caught. So, to make up for it they pay you ~ 3k in cash and apply an update to your ECM that makes it run more "efficiently". You should have gotten the AEM recall notice back in May. Even if you are not the original owner you are entitled to a cash settlement.
 

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Discussion Starter #63
If you got the AEM in less than 50k ago your vehicle is under warranty still


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I did get the ECM update recall and they did give me a warranty extension but that is on the exhaust system right? Would they agree that the oil cooler failure is because of that?
 

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I did get the ECM update recall and they did give me a warranty extension but that is on the exhaust system right? Would they agree that the oil cooler failure is because of that?
The oil cooler is NOT covered under the AEM Extended warranty that I can tell. The EGR Cooler is covered under the AEM Extended warranty and the EGR Cooler is also the part that is recalled. It seems there is a little confusion in this thread that the oil cooler and the EGR cooler are two different things.
 

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Discussion Starter #67
The oil cooler is NOT covered under the AEM Extended warranty that I can tell. The EGR Cooler is covered under the AEM Extended warranty and the EGR Cooler is also the part that is recalled. It seems there is a little confusion in this thread that the oil cooler and the EGR cooler are two different things.
Thank you Sam,

I figured it was not covered under AEM. I am following the advice and only replacing the oil cooler, cleaning the system. Once that is done, I will reset the warnings and drive it. If the service throttle service or smoke or anything that could be related to the EGR comes up again, I will take it straight to the dealer.
 

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Thank you Sam,

I figured it was not covered under AEM. I am following the advice and only replacing the oil cooler, cleaning the system. Once that is done, I will reset the warnings and drive it. If the service throttle service or smoke or anything that could be related to the EGR comes up again, I will take it straight to the dealer.
Sounds good! I would recommend changing the oil and filter as well to be safe. Wouldn't want any traces of coolant running through your bearings and/or other critical parts. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #69
Sounds good! I would recommend changing the oil and filter as well to be safe. Wouldn't want any traces of coolant running through your bearings and/or other critical parts. :)
I am definitely dumping the oil, for sure. Maaan, I have worked on my Jeep wrangler and my dads Toyota many times, what the heck is up with the multitude of hoses and the radiator on this thing, lol. I need a schematic of who is whose relative before I disconnect everything and get to the thermostat.
 

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Discussion Starter #70
I searched this forum for instructions on how to properly perform the flush of the coolant system and couldn't really find anything. Could you guys point me to the right resource please? Diagrams or videos or something, so I don't do this blind.

Cheers
 

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At the time, I didn’t really know what I was looking for, but when my EGR was stuck open and I was getting smoke, I did discover this in the pipe going from the air box to the turbo:



This was after idling for a minute after the initial loss of power and smoke on the highway (and after a tow back to the place where I bought the truck).

If you start to see or smell something, my suggestion would be to check the intake pipe for smoke.

If you have smoke you have a couple options, one of which would be to roll it out in the street and start her up and get some marshmallows!


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Discussion Starter #72
At the time, I didn’t really know what I was looking for, but when my EGR was stuck open and I was getting smoke, I did discover this in the pipe going from the air box to the turbo:



This was after idling for a minute after the initial loss of power and smoke on the highway (and after a tow back to the place where I bought the truck).

If you start to see or smell something, my suggestion would be to check the intake pipe for smoke.

If you have smoke you have a couple options, one of which would be to roll it out in the street and start her up and get some marshmallows!


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LOL, It did cross my mind about the marshmallows. Right now, I am concentrating on cleaning the system from all the oil residue. It looks really bad. I mean bad. There was very little coolant left in the system when I disconnected the hoses to dump the stuff out. On the other hand, I drained the oil from the engine and at least it looked good: slightly less but looks good. The oil cooler arrives on Thursday. I will assemble everything back together and put, as suggested dishwasher fluid along with distilled water and drive it. Hopefully after ooooh 20 reflashes it will clean up... that is if the truck doesn't catch fire before that.
 

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I think you are on the right track. I have not attempted a drain and fill on the ED, but it might be worthwhile to get a vacuum coolant charger to help speed up the filling process and get as much air out as possible.

Something else to consider would be a copy of AlfaOBD so you can override the 3 way coolant valve open to be able to open the transmission cooler circuit since it will never get up to temp without the thermostat.

Good luck and keep us posted!


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AEM is the "Approved Emissions Modification" program to re-program your Engine Control Module. That is because the EPA got on FCA's back and demanded it for '14's through 2016 models. The carrot was $ to the owners to have it done and an extended warranty period. If yours was done there would be a sticker about that under the front lip of the hood. If not done and you get it done you will not get $$ as you just got the truck. You will get added warranty. Of course the truck will have to be running to get it done so you have a problem there.

Read about the AEM in that topic section on this forum.
 

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Discussion Starter #75
AEM is the "Approved Emissions Modification" program to re-program your Engine Control Module. That is because the EPA got on FCA's back and demanded it for '14's through 2016 models. The carrot was $ to the owners to have it done and an extended warranty period. If yours was done there would be a sticker about that under the front lip of the hood. If not done and you get it done you will not get $$ as you just got the truck. You will get added warranty. Of course the truck will have to be running to get it done so you have a problem there.

Read about the AEM in that topic section on this forum.
Hi Captain,

I am assuming you are advising me and not someone else. If so, then I have already replied to the folks above somewhere regarding the AEM. Mine has been completed. Thanks for the info anyways.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #76
I think you are on the right track. I have not attempted a drain and fill on the ED, but it might be worthwhile to get a vacuum coolant charger to help speed up the filling process and get as much air out as possible.

Something else to consider would be a copy of AlfaOBD so you can override the 3 way coolant valve open to be able to open the transmission cooler circuit since it will never get up to temp without the thermostat.

Good luck and keep us posted!


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That is really good advice! Thank you very much. What is an AlfaOBD, where can I get and do I have to remove the thermostat? I was under the impression that with the thermostat removed it would be quicker but not a must?
 

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Discussion Starter #77
I'm glad to see you pulled the cover. In the second picture that shows the top of the intake manifold it's hard to see exactly where you need to inspect. Take a good look at the top of the manifold itself about three inches from where the pipe that has what looks like a sock on it enters the manifold. That pipe is the EGR diffuser tube that injects exhaust gasses into the intake manifold. Three inches from where the pipe bolts to the intake manifold is where the top of the manifold melts & starts the fires. If the EGR cooler is cracked it can pump exhaust gases into the cooling system & make the coolant in the degas bottle look really nasty & black with crud.

More than likely your problem is with the oil cooler and changing it is a great path to go down. The EGR inspection is just a safety measure due to all of the known EGR problems & with your mileage it's a prime candidate for those type of issues. It's always wise to error on the side of caution.
Inspected the EGR as you described and did not find anything melted or out of the ordinary. I am hoping that after replacing the oil cooler, getting enough coolant in the system and resetting the ETC, it will hold.
 

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That is really good advice! Thank you very much. What is an AlfaOBD, where can I get and do I have to remove the thermostat? I was under the impression that with the thermostat removed it would be quicker but not a must?
www.alfaobd.com

Very powerful software for 49 euros. You will also need a OBD adapter to connect to whatever device you get the software for. All told you are looking at $160 ish but it is well worth it.

You will probably still want to remove the thermostat so you can flush the radiator out without needing to get the engine all the way warmed up. The AlfaOBD app will let you open the 3-way valve that lets coolant go to the transmission so you can flush it as well. Full disclosure, I have not attempted this myself, but from what I have seen should be possible.

The truck is programmed to get the engine up to operating temp as quick as possible, and then it will also warm up the transmission to help with the mpg’s. It uses the 3-way valve to regulate the coolant going to the transmission cooler.

Be forewarned, driving the truck without the thermostat will eventually get you a code for not warming up quick enough. No worries because the AlfaOBD software can read and clear the codes as well. I would suggest the first 5 or so flushes to be done without actually driving the truck. Those with first hand experience with this might chime in to give better insight.


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In order to be effective, each flush must be very, very hot.
 

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No need to command the three way valve open you can do that by turning the heat on high with full fan (majority of coolant flow to the heater core) or turn the cab heat off (majority of the coolant flow well go to the transmission warmer. Both circuits need flushed anyways so switching heat demand on and off might help speed this. But with the thermostat removed it well flush more of the system and be easier to get all the coolant out. It might cause a cel for thermostat rationality but that wont hurt anything other than disabling remote start.
 
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