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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok. Hi just joined and I’m just looking for info.
I just bought a 15 eco as my first diesel. Fantastic truck with great mileage and it’s just pretty.

If I get the GDE tune would that help with regen issues this truck seems to have later on in Miles (I’m at 85k)
Any general “ watch for this “ etc

And if I get the GDE hot tune and my mechanic Will D Leet comes and does his work. Will those two things work well together.

and just any info you guys could give. It’s my first diesel and I have driven it about an month and I’m in love
Could use a little more pep for traffic and etc.
 

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Ok. Hi just joined and I’m just looking for info.
I just bought a 15 eco as my first diesel. Fantastic truck with great mileage and it’s just pretty.

If I get the GDE tune would that help with regen issues this truck seems to have later on in Miles (I’m at 85k)
Any general “ watch for this “ etc

And if I get the GDE hot tune and my mechanic Will D Leet comes and does his work. Will those two things work well together.

and just any info you guys could give. It’s my first diesel and I have driven it about an month and I’m in love
Could use a little more pep for traffic and etc.
Hi: Kasey B... Do enjoy it... don't sweat it... cause as you get older you don't need as much pep.
Dieseldragon North shore of Lake Erie.
 

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Congrats on the purchase. GDE emission compliant tune should help with most everything engine related including regens. I believe you'll have to get a tune from someone else if you want to delete (or buy a used ECU from someone) as GDE doesn't provide the hot tune anymore. As far as tips, lots of smarter people on this forum than me and I'm sure you'll hear some good info, but my two suggestions are to keep an eye on the coolant level in the degas bottle. If it drops continuously, then Houston, you have a problem. Also, try avoid short drives. This engine prefers long runs that get the motor good and hot. Short runs will cause it to plug up with carbon deposits. Good luck and post a pic or two.
 

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I have the old GDE Hot Tune, deleted EGR cooler and DEF pump turned off. 110,000 miles, love it. My suggestion to you would be get it tuned and see if it has had the EGR cooler recall. I removed mine at 100,000 miles, it never leaked, but always made me nervous. A good tune will make it drive better, also a transmission tune.
 
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With only 85,000k get the GDE compliant and leave the EGR alone. Mine remains intact, was shut off for 166,000 (from 50k to 216k) until getting compliant tune and re-engaged with zero issue for new Turbo and AEM. GDE 2.0 at 218,000 and runs better then new OEM tune.

The days of the perfect tune and being able to delete are over. Enjoy the ride.
 

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2017 Laramie eco about to be tuned and deleted at 30k
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Welcome. I have a stock 2017 Laramie that I just ordered a tune for from HD in Canada. It’s shutting off the egr scr DPF and def. I’m replacing the DPF with straight exhaust. I threw in a tranny tune and high speed warm up.
I’ll let you know how it goes. I’m getting 21.5 average and 28 on the freeway. I can’t wait.
Emission are 9/10th the problem from what I’ve gathered. I’ve studied this pretty hard. A full delete will ensure a long life. F#€k the EPA.
Use good fuel and add hotshot and extreme. You will see a difference. Avoid short drives. Get it warmed up, especially if you are not going to turn off or delete your egr. It pounds soot into your crankcase and intake manifold.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Welcome. I have a stock 2017 Laramie that I just ordered a tune for from HD in Canada. It’s shutting off the egr scr DPF and def. I’m replacing the DPF with straight exhaust. I threw in a tranny tune and high speed warm up.
I’ll let you know how it goes. I’m getting 21.5 average and 28 on the freeway. I can’t wait.
Emission are 9/10th the problem from what I’ve gathered. I’ve studied this pretty hard. A full delete will ensure a long life. F#€k the EPA.
Use good fuel and add hotshot and extreme. You will see a difference. Avoid short drives. Get it warmed up, especially if you are not going to turn off or delete your egr. It pounds soot into your crankcase and intake manifold.
Welcome. I have a stock 2017 Laramie that I just ordered a tune for from HD in Canada. It’s shutting off the egr scr DPF and def. I’m replacing the DPF with straight exhaust. I threw in a tranny tune and high speed warm up.
I’ll let you know how it goes. I’m getting 21.5 average and 28 on the freeway. I can’t wait.
Emission are 9/10th the problem from what I’ve gathered. I’ve studied this pretty hard. A full delete will ensure a long life. F#€k the EPA.
Use good fuel and add hotshot and extreme. You will see a difference. Avoid short drives. Get it warmed up, especially if you are not going to turn off or delete your egr. It pounds soot into your crankcase and intake manifold.
That’s where I was looking at getting the transmission and engine tuned and deleted . It’s pricey but I might have to try.
also I am a HVAC Tech that runs his own company so definitely f the EPA lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
With only 85,000k get the GDE compliant and leave the EGR alone. Mine remains intact, was shut off for 166,000 (from 50k to 216k) until getting compliant tune and re-engaged with zero issue for new Turbo and AEM. GDE 2.0 at 218,000 and runs better then new OEM tune.

The days of the perfect tune and being able to delete are over. Enjoy the ride.
Thanks for the advice. I’m guessing the GDR tune helps burn soot better ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have the old GDE Hot Tune, deleted EGR cooler and DEF pump turned off. 110,000 miles, love it. My suggestion to you would be get it tuned and see if it has had the EGR cooler recall. I removed mine at 100,000 miles, it never leaked, but always made me nervous. A good tune will make it drive better, also a transmission tune.
I’ll definitely look into that. Seems like the easiest mod
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Also I will say

I had a Tacoma for 13 years I bought in the service and it was a monster. And I’ve always just got random trucks even when I was younger. This Lonestar edition 1500 even though it’s used is by far an amazing riding truck and it’s the nicest truck I’ve ever owned. So I’m pretty excited.
Have always bought my wife new cars and finally bought something for myself. Plenty of room for my kids and it’s great on mileage. I’m averaging about 24 or so
 

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That’s where I was looking at getting the transmission and engine tuned and deleted . It’s pricey but I might have to try.
also I am a HVAC Tech that runs his own company so definitely f the EPA lol
 

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2017 Laramie eco about to be tuned and deleted at 30k
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I just did the whole banana and it was a little over 1600 usd. That’s with the new exhaust pipe tax and shipping. Seemed like a bargain to me. Fact is you can’t delete in the US. I guess it boils down to if you can live with regent and def. for now hp in Canada is still shipping to the US ( except California of course), but that may stop any day.
 

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I’ll definitely look into that. Seems like the easiest mod
If I remember correctly, the new tune reduces EGR usage by 90% versus electronically shutting it off 100% in the prior tune. Best to call them directly, many other beneficial features also. If longterm ownership is the goal, it's a wise decision.

Another consideration being diesel exhaust and smell, choose to keep DEF intact. My 7.3 stinks up the cab at red lights and various other times.
 
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I just installed the HD Diesel engine and Trans tune. I also reduce the weight of the exhaust. I have to say, it's like driving a totally different truck. I can't begin to tell you how much better and funner it is to drive. I highly recommend it. I know there is alot folks on here that praise GDE and I am sure it's a great tune. I can tell you that I saw some posts on this forum that GDE recommended HD Diesel when they were still working on the emissions compliant tune. I think that the tune HD Diesel is selling is either the old GDE tune or its very similar to the old GDE tune. I am no expert on diesels as I am still learning, but in my humble opinion the best thing you can do for problem free longevity is to lighten it up. My 2016 eco has right around 55000 miles. Don't sweat the "what could happens" and enjoy the truck! By the way, welcome to forum. There are a lot of very knowledgeable folks on here that very happy to help if you have a question so don't be afraid to ask.
 

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I just installed the HD Diesel engine and Trans tune. I also reduce the weight of the exhaust. I have to say, it's like driving a totally different truck. I can't begin to tell you how much better and funner it is to drive. I highly recommend it. I know there is alot folks on here that praise GDE and I am sure it's a great tune. I can tell you that I saw some posts on this forum that GDE recommended HD Diesel when they were still working on the emissions compliant tune. I think that the tune HD Diesel is selling is either the old GDE tune or its very similar to the old GDE tune. I am no expert on diesels as I am still learning, but in my humble opinion the best thing you can do for problem free longevity is to lighten it up. My 2016 eco has right around 55000 miles. Don't sweat the "what could happens" and enjoy the truck! By the way, welcome to forum. There are a lot of very knowledgeable folks on here that very happy to help if you have a question so don't be afraid to ask.
By the way, the other "do" and "don't" that I have for you is to keep the fuel filter changed by the recommended time. I think the recommendation is every 20000 miles, I do mine every 15000. Don't buy an aftermarket fuel filter, stick with the MOPAR filter.
 

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Welcome Kasey. Lots of good advice above. Summary below. Invest in your truck for problem free operation & long life.

1. Engine & trans tune. Fix the AEM government detune. GDE used, (closes EGR valve) GDE new gov compliant, Sofa King, HD Diesel, MR Tuning, Celtic several to choose from.
2. Check if EGR cooler has been replaced under warranty. If not either get it replaced via warranty if possible or search for good EGR cooler delete kit. In the mean time watch coolant level as you want to keep it to the seem or more.
3. This truck is easy to change your own oil. But regardless every 10k get it done with a 10k rated filter and an approved oil such as Rotella T6. Even if you are buying the oil & filter and paying a local to have it changed. rockauto is a good mail order source for oil fuel & air filters.
4. Replace fuel filter with the factory Mopar filter. This is another one easy to do yourself. Tips use a large zip lock bag or wide mouth coffee can to drop the old filter into so that you don't spill diesel on yourself. When finished key the ignition on and wait for the pump to quit running before trying to start. This gets the fuel from the tank up front to the high pressure pump. I do it every third oil change or 30k per my original warranty.

Every spring & fall I pull the rubber fill plug dip my finger in and check the rear differential fluid. If its silver with wear metals or brown with water rust change asap. It should be almost clear. 2.5 quarts of 75/140 full synthetic differential fluid plus if you have a limited slip get a small bottle limited slip additive or fluid that contains it. Walmart has the differential fluid 11.94 a quart plus the additive. If not most auto parts stores do. There is a drain plug on the bottom passenger side think it needs a T40. Simple do it yourself job.

Every 100k I change the transmission fluid. Easiest done with a shop lift so perhaps a local shop. You can get a new filterpan online very reasonably. Valvoline Max life full synthetic transmission fluid by the gallon at Autozone. Just bring the filterpan & fluid to your local shop. As to front differential & transfer case sheesh maybe every 150 or 200k. 785,000 miles this is what has worked for me.

All of this simple maintenance stuff you can do yourself or have a local mech do. You don't need to pay dealership service prices for it. If you have a check engine or warranty light a simple inexpensive two button code reader such as the Bosch unit will tell you the code and can clear basic codes. It can also get you out of limp mode so that you don't need a tow and can deal with the problem on your own time. Enjoy the truck and our forum let us know your experiences.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Welcome Kasey. Lots of good advice above. Summary below. Invest in your truck for problem free operation & long life.

1. Engine & trans tune. Fix the AEM government detune. GDE used, (closes EGR valve) GDE new gov compliant, Sofa King, HD Diesel, MR Tuning, Celtic several to choose from.
2. Check if EGR cooler has been replaced under warranty. If not either get it replaced via warranty if possible or search for good EGR cooler delete kit. In the mean time watch coolant level as you want to keep it to the seem or more.
3. This truck is easy to change your own oil. But regardless every 10k get it done with a 10k rated filter and an approved oil such as Rotella T6. Even if you are buying the oil & filter and paying a local to have it changed. rockauto is a good mail order source for oil fuel & air filters.
4. Replace fuel filter with the factory Mopar filter. This is another one easy to do yourself. Tips use a large zip lock bag or wide mouth coffee can to drop the old filter into so that you don't spill diesel on yourself. When finished key the ignition on and wait for the pump to quit running before trying to start. This gets the fuel from the tank up front to the high pressure pump. I do it every third oil change or 30k per my original warranty.

Every spring & fall I pull the rubber fill plug dip my finger in and check the rear differential fluid. If its silver with wear metals or brown with water rust change asap. It should be almost clear. 2.5 quarts of 75/140 full synthetic differential fluid plus if you have a limited slip get a small bottle limited slip additive or fluid that contains it. Walmart has the differential fluid 11.94 a quart plus the additive. If not most auto parts stores do. There is a drain plug on the bottom passenger side think it needs a T40. Simple do it yourself job.

Every 100k I change the transmission fluid. Easiest done with a shop lift so perhaps a local shop. You can get a new filterpan online very reasonably. Valvoline Max life full synthetic transmission fluid by the gallon at Autozone. Just bring the filterpan & fluid to your local shop. As to front differential & transfer case sheesh maybe every 150 or 200k. 785,000 miles this is what has worked for me.

All of this simple maintenance stuff you can do yourself or have a local mech do. You don't need to pay dealership service prices for it. If you have a check engine or warranty light a simple inexpensive two button code reader such as the Bosch unit will tell you the code and can clear basic codes. It can also get you out of limp mode so that you don't need a tow and can deal with the problem on your own time. Enjoy the truck and our forum let us know your experiences.
Thanks so much
I have a question
If I get a tune like engine / trans one. If that tune closes the egr , will I still have to do a delete kit for the egr and new exhaust ?
Also what is the benefit of a tune with closing the egr off vs full delete with new exhaust.
sorry I’m a diesel novice
 

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Don’t run it out of fuel; starving the high pressure fuel pump and can severely reduce its life. Some will say don’t run it below a quarter of a tank to keep the fuel pump in the tank (the lift pump) submerged and thus cool. Keep in mind the high pressure fuel pump (mounted on the front passenger side of the engine) provides fuel to the engine at up to 29,000 psi and likes to be well lubricated.


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at 85,000 miles and being a 2015 you can only hope it was driven 25,000 miles per year and then parked in 2018 otherwise that's most likely been a local short trip truck and the top end is sooted up, probably really badly if you want the honest truth. Ironically, if you're going to buy a 2015 you're hoping it has 200,000 miles on it and you replace, brakes, and wheel bearings and stuff like that. very odd thing, but in the context of the engine and soot, low miles and that age is not appealing.

I'd do it or take it someplace and have the intake charge pipe removed for a quick look.... then probably intake taken off, the heads off, and clean the heads then replace the intake completely and go from there.

If you're not going to do that, the best thing you can do in my opinion is run a fuel additive like diesel kleen and drive it on the highway over 65mph and only do that if at all possible... and load it up or tow something.
 

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at 85,000 miles and being a 2015 you can only hope it was driven 25,000 miles per year and then parked in 2018 otherwise that's most likely been a local short trip truck and the top end is sooted up, probably really badly if you want the honest truth. Ironically, if you're going to buy a 2015 you're hoping it has 200,000 miles on it and you replace, brakes, and wheel bearings and stuff like that. very odd thing, but in the context of the engine and soot, low miles and that age is not appealing.

I'd do it or take it someplace and have the intake charge pipe removed for a quick look.... then probably intake taken off, the heads off, and clean the heads then replace the intake completely and go from there.

If you're not going to do that, the best thing you can do in my opinion is run a fuel additive like diesel kleen and drive it on the highway over 65mph and only do that if at all possible... and load it up or tow something.
I respectfully disagree. A 2015 with 85k is likely going to be much better than a 2015 with 200k. Think about it... My truck had 40 k in the first 4 years and was only used for highway trips (never ever trips less than 50 miles).
 
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