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I respectfully disagree. A 2015 with 85k is likely going to be much better than a 2015 with 200k. Think about it... My truck had 40 k in the first 4 years and was only used for highway trips (never ever trips less than 50 miles).
You could be right, I could be right, the best way to know is to have the tube taken off and look at it and the intake, go from there.
 

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at 85,000 miles and being a 2015 you can only hope it was driven 25,000 miles per year and then parked in 2018 otherwise that's most likely been a local short trip truck and the top end is sooted up, probably really badly if you want the honest truth. Ironically, if you're going to buy a 2015 you're hoping it has 200,000 miles on it and you replace, brakes, and wheel bearings and stuff like that. very odd thing, but in the context of the engine and soot, low miles and that age is not appealing.

I'd do it or take it someplace and have the intake charge pipe removed for a quick look.... then probably intake taken off, the heads off, and clean the heads then replace the intake completely and go from there.

If you're not going to do that, the best thing you can do in my opinion is run a fuel additive like diesel kleen and drive it on the highway over 65mph and only do that if at all possible... and load it up or tow something.
?? Nobody can pretend to know how a truck was previously used. I have a 2014 with 60,000 miles. Its ONLY used to tow and used mostly in the AZ heat for its weekend treak of 125 miles one way happily towing 3,500 LBS thru the Az mountains.
 

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Welcome to the dark side! One thing that I'm surprised no one else mentioned but only purchase fuel from a reliable station with lots of diesel turn over. Look for a local station that a lot of contactors use, or a truck stop. If you use a less popular station you can be introducing things into the tank that shouldn't be there like dirt, water, slime....

Check with your station to see if they are using a bio-blend diesel. If so, then you should never need to use additives.
 

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2017 Laramie eco about to be tuned and deleted at 30k
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[QUOTE="ncskibum, post: 1054995, member:

Check with your station to see if they are using a bio-blend diesel. If so, then you should never need to use additives.
[/QUOTE]
I respectfully disagree. Having dealt with millions of gallons of bulk #2 fuel oil, I can tell you biobar is strictly a biocide that kills the bugs that live in diesel tanks. It is not a fuel additive in the sense that it does not do do anything else than kill the black carpet and stop it from forming. Not so much an issue with small tanks that are turned over frequently.
This will not replace any cetane or lubricity features you get from quality additives.
 

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[QUOTE="ncskibum, post: 1054995, member:

Check with your station to see if they are using a bio-blend diesel. If so, then you should never need to use additives.
I respectfully disagree. Having dealt with millions of gallons of bulk #2 fuel oil, I can tell you biobar is strictly a biocide that kills the bugs that live in diesel tanks. It is not a fuel additive in the sense that it does not do do anything else than kill the black carpet and stop it from forming. Not so much an issue with small tanks that are turned over frequently.
This will not replace any cetane or lubricity features you get from quality additives.
[/QUOTE]
Plus Bio Diesel is an inherently Dirty fuel. Even our owners manual requires more frequent fuel filter changes when useing it. I would rather spend my money on additives for "Clean" fuel then money on fuel filters.
 

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2017 Laramie eco about to be tuned and deleted at 30k
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I respectfully disagree. Having dealt with millions of gallons of bulk #2 fuel oil, I can tell you biobar is strictly a biocide that kills the bugs that live in diesel tanks. It is not a fuel additive in the sense that it does not do do anything else than kill the black carpet and stop it from forming. Not so much an issue with small tanks that are turned over frequently.
This will not replace any cetane or lubricity features you get from quality additives.
Plus Bio Diesel is an inherently Dirty fuel. Even our owners manual requires more frequent fuel filter changes when useing it. I would rather spend my money on additives for "Clean" fuel then money on fuel filters.
[/QUOTE]
Whups I think I confused the words biobor with biodiesel.
the former is a biocide.
 

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Hi Kasey
I too just joined this forum. And like you I recently bought a 2015 Ram Eco 4x4 4 door. Mine though has 100000 on it but looks and runs great so I joined this forum to learn how to better it. I did call HD tune and also GD tune. Man it was like they were scared to death to talk to me. Such as it is...I understand their situation... so I too request of our fellow forum members to help school us newbies on either of the companies and what would be recommended to add to the tune we select. On HD I was considering the tuner, pipe, trans tune etc but I'll wait for advice from the forum. I realize its a couple of K but if it will prolong my motor it's worth it. Thanks all
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Hi Kasey
I too just joined this forum. And like you I recently bought a 2015 Ram Eco 4x4 4 door. Mine though has 100000 on it but looks and runs great so I joined this forum to learn how to better it. I did call HD tune and also GD tune. Man it was like they were scared to death to talk to me. Such as it is...I understand their situation... so I too request of our fellow forum members to help school us newbies on either of the companies and what would be recommended to add to the tune we select. On HD I was considering the tuner, pipe, trans tune etc but I'll wait for advice from the forum. I realize its a couple of K but if it will prolong my motor it's worth it. Thanks all
Yep I’m in the same boat. I just don’t know the difference in a trans tune with EGR shutoff vs a complete delete no def and new exhaust.
 

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Hi Kasey
I too just joined this forum. And like you I recently bought a 2015 Ram Eco 4x4 4 door. Mine though has 100000 on it but looks and runs great so I joined this forum to learn how to better it. I did call HD tune and also GD tune. Man it was like they were scared to death to talk to me. Such as it is...I understand their situation... so I too request of our fellow forum members to help school us newbies on either of the companies and what would be recommended to add to the tune we select. On HD I was considering the tuner, pipe, trans tune etc but I'll wait for advice from the forum. I realize its a couple of K but if it will prolong my motor it's worth it. Thanks all
Im in the same spot right now with a 2015 with 107,000 km on it. Im looking to do a full HD diesel delete and tune with Trans tune after researching this. Anything i can do to increase the reliability and longevity of this engine is well worth it.
 

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Yep I’m in the same boat. I just don’t know the difference in a trans tune with EGR shutoff vs a complete delete no def and new exhaust.
Well... I'm sure one of the forum will hopefully jump in but I assume the trans tune will aid in shift points and be more conducive to trans temperatures staying lower. Saving undue wear and tear on the trans. As far as the deletes etc, From what I understand to lower emission pollution our engines at specific intervals (mileage) will inject DEF into the exhaust that causes a chemical reaction I'm assuming with the catalytic converter, which in turn will cleanse the exhaust system of the soot that accumulates. (like after burning it) It also will open a recirculation valve that will port exhaust into the intake in a attempt to recirculate exhaust back into the intake manifold to be burnt again depleting any unburnt accumulation of fuels and hydrocarbons. The delete is doing exactly that... removing the program that opens the egr because egr actually is detrimental to the longevity of our engines. It cakes up our intakes and injectors driving up undue maintenance... costly maintenance at that. As our engines are now they do a regen with the DEF every so many miles and I believe the tune will either increase the number of regens which is good for those of us who are short driving these motors, or it can also stop the injection from happening at all. Like I say I'm certain one of the forum will clarify what I am trying to explain to you. Years ago I had diesels. Starting with GM 5.7, 6.2, 6.0. Then in 97 I bought fords 7.3 power stroke. Loved it. As I hadn't a need for a F350 anymore I sold mine and have had various pick ups since .... my last a Ram 1500 Hemi 4x4. Great truck but wanted to update and I just happened to come across my eco. It's a cream puff and I like yourself just want information from those with the experience, to know what should be done to help lower maintenance costs and improve longevity and drivability. I do know that the epa legal begals must have scared the heck out of the tune manufacturers because they are extremely reluctant to discuss the how's and why's of the tunes on the phone, so you and I are in the same boat having to ask our forum members to school us as to good and bad of the tunes and deletes and what would be recommended to order. Cheers.
 

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I respectfully disagree. Having dealt with millions of gallons of bulk #2 fuel oil, I can tell you biobar is strictly a biocide that kills the bugs that live in diesel tanks. It is not a fuel additive in the sense that it does not do do anything else than kill the black carpet and stop it from forming. Not so much an issue with small tanks that are turned over frequently.
This will not replace any cetane or lubricity features you get from quality additives.
Plus Bio Diesel is an inherently Dirty fuel. Even our owners manual requires more frequent fuel filter changes when useing it. I would rather spend my money on additives for "Clean" fuel then money on fuel filters.
[/QUOTE]

Yes, bio-diesel can lead to more frequent oil changes but not becasue it's any dirtier. It will wash past the valves in the cylinders and dilute the oil. FCA has certiified this engine to be able to run on up to 20% bio (B20) with the recommendation that you change oil at 7500 miles instead of 10,000. A 1% addition of bio gives better lubricity than any of the commercial additives at their recommended level. Some states, such as Illinios, have a 20% bio mandate. You can buy straight D2, but you really have to look for it. SC has a 5% bio mandate.
 

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Yep I’m in the same boat. I just don’t know the difference in a trans tune with EGR shutoff vs a complete delete no def and new exhaust.
A stage 1 tune electronically turns off the EGR Valve (Exhaust Gas Recirculation). This prevents exhaust gas from following back into the trucks intake. The stage 1 will leave the DPF (which collects the soot) in place and the SCR. You can usually opt to have the DEF turned off also.

A stage 2 does the same thing with the EGR as a stage 1 but the stage 2 allows you to removed the DPF and SCR and replace with a straight pipe exhaust.

DEF is injected post DPF and reacts with metals in the SCR to reduce NOx. DEF is not used for regens.

Hope this helps clarify some questions.


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A stage 1 tune electronically turns off the EGR Valve (Exhaust Gas Recirculation). This prevents exhaust gas from following back into the trucks intake. The stage 1 will leave the DPF (which collects the soot) in place and the SCR. You can usually opt to have the DEF turned off also.

A stage 2 does the same thing with the EGR as a stage 1 but the stage 2 allows you to removed the DPF and SCR and replace with a straight pipe exhaust.

DEF is injected post DPF and reacts with metals in the SCR to reduce NOx. DEF is not used for regens.

Hope this helps clarify some questions.


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That helps me... how about you Kasey? Raftguy?
 

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2017 Laramie eco about to be tuned and deleted at 30k
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This should be a required watch for anyone owning an ecodiesel, especially those interested in tuning and stages of delete. It explains in simple terms
What EGR, DPF, SCR, and DEF do and how they work together. Enjoy

 

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2017 Laramie eco about to be tuned and deleted at 30k
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This should be a required watch for anyone owning an ecodiesel, especially those interested in tuning and stages of delete. It explains in simple terms
What EGR, DPF, SCR, and DEF do and how they work together. Enjoy

Whoops specter beat me to it
 

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2017 Laramie eco about to be tuned and deleted at 30k
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I’ve got a almost full delete for my 2017 Laramie from HDDiesel coming.
I want no egr however I’ll leave the equipment in place until I have to remove it, I want no regen so
The exhaust is coming off as all those sensors will be impotent with the tune.
so I guess I am a HP diesel 2nd stage delete but leaving the egr parts installed, with a tranny tune. I also opted for the high idle warm up and exhaust brake for another 100
1600 usd total. I can’t wait. Why on earth anyone would run their truck with the egr coking everything up with soot is beyond me. Emissions is the only thing that will give you problems with this engine.
 

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Plus Bio Diesel is an inherently Dirty fuel. Even our owners manual requires more frequent fuel filter changes when useing it. I would rather spend my money on additives for "Clean" fuel then money on fuel filters.
Yes, bio-diesel can lead to more frequent oil changes but not becasue it's any dirtier. It will wash past the valves in the cylinders and dilute the oil. FCA has certiified this engine to be able to run on up to 20% bio (B20) with the recommendation that you change oil at 7500 miles instead of 10,000. A 1% addition of bio gives better lubricity than any of the commercial additives at their recommended level. Some states, such as Illinios, have a 20% bio mandate. You can buy straight D2, but you really have to look for it. SC has a 5% bio mandate.
[/QUOTE]
? Aparently FCA thinks it IS a dirty fuel... Manual states that fuel filters are required to be changed at 20,000 miles instead of 30,000 miles. Lets face it . Theres only one reason they would require this. I would rather spend my money on a quality fuel additive then Dirty fuel and Extra Oil, Filter and Fuel filters. I would also like to see your facts to support ...(A 1% addition of bio gives better lubricity than any of the commercial additives)
 
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