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Discussion Starter #41
Hi Capt Larry,

When you performed this fill procedure did you have the truck on jack stands so that the wheels were in the air. I read in our newly available (Thanks to Bat Koce) Service Manual that they want you to disable traction control, with the brakes applied place the transmission in reverse and hold for 5 seconds, Place in drive and hold for 5 seconds, release the brakes, slowly accelerate to 2nd gear and hold for 5 seconds. Apply brakes and place the transmission in Neutral. Raise the engine speed to 2000RPM for 5 seconds. Return the engine to idle and place the transmission in park. Remove the fill plug and allow excess fluid to drain from the fill hole or add fluid as necessary.
No.

Now I did go through a cycle of shifting while stopped. Think I outlined it above and it is discussed in the owner's manual. My concern was the dufus I asked and directed to do that right above me. He was visiting and I needed a reasonably intelligent assistant to run things while I worked under the truck, inches from the DPF. He also had to carefully watch the engine coolant temperature so we got things done within the required temperature parameters.

We did it though I was quite scared he would somehow move the truck or do some other and of screw up. Scared? Yes. He could easily crush me under there. After my initial instructions I came to the conclusion he was a mechanical dufus that would struggle to know how to operate even a simple automatic transmission while keeping a foot on the brake and the emergency brake on, blocked wheels while he watched a temperature readout and shifted that silly dial.

It is a miserable job and you have to have your filler stuff with tubes ready to go as there is not much time and things sure can quickly get hot next to that DPF. Wear long sleeves and maybe long gloves. You just may brush your arm against that DPF and spill oil on your tush. This job convinced me the designers of this check and fill procedure have no relationship with a home mechanic working on a garage floor. That's polite speak for FOOLS.
 

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I changed the transmission fluid at 102000 at my friends auto repair shop, using a drive on lift. Used the Mopar trans pan and six quarts of oil. I read where Capt said that he used 5 2/3 qts so figured six quarts was enough, and seemed to coincide with what others had said as well. We drained the pan into two measured container which came out to just over five plus quarts. Since the torque converter doesn't drain, we put in the same amount of oil we took out, it was already in the temp range, so with the brake on I put it in drive and reverse numerous times. Pulled the fill plug and added a little more and took it for a test drive. Shifted nice and smooth, put it back on the lift and checked the oil again and all good. Just did my engine oil change about 7500 miles later, oil level in trans good and shifts fine even after pulling the to hauler several times. So basically removed 5+ qts and put 5+ back in and kept it simple.
 

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I got energetic today and performed the tranny fluid/pan/filter change. Went quite well. Followed the instructions in post # 40 that was from the service manual gratiously provided by Bat Koce. Following those instructions I was able to do it all myself. Didn't need anyone else to run through the gears since I started the job with the tranny cold and it stayed within the temperature range as outlined for the entire filling and top up.Like Capt, I wouldnt trust anyone to be running through the gears with me under the truck. I drove the front wheels onto ramps the raised up the back using a floor hoist and installed axle stands for safety. This was the easiest way to level the truck to get an accurate fill level. Even changed the fuel filter while I was under there.
TIP: wear old cloths, the Valvoline max life synthetic stinks like......well.... nothing I can describe. It ran down my arm when spilling out from the filler and into my jacket sleeve. Mrs Ecosparky wont even let me bring the jacket into the house to wash it. Said there's no way its going into her washing machine.

So it was a $1325 dollar day (saved). Dealer quoted me $1200 for tranny fluid change and I know they charge $250 for the fuel filter change that took all of 15 minutes. My cost for all parts, fluids, pan etc $175. A big THANK YOU goes out to the pioneers here !
 

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If you want to make the trans service 10x easier, make a handy fluid transfer pump for less than $20 in parts. Start with a 1 gal pump sprayer ($10 at Home Depot). Add 3-4ft of 0.5" ID clear tubing, a plastic ball valve, and a plastic 90º elbow for the end of the tube. The plastic elbow fits in the trans fill hole perfectly and provides plenty of room between the trans and the DPF. I think I got the ball valve and elbow on Amazon.
 

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Yes. I bought a Pennzoil 1 gallon oil container pump on Amazon that came with all the hoses. I needed to pour the new fluid into a clean I gallon container (old oil container that I cleaned and washed) that the pump would fit onto. The neck of the Maxlife was too large to accept the pump. The hose end of the pump had a plastic squeeze fitting that would lock into the tranny filler hole but I removed it to get a better angle. You are right that a small 90 degree elbow fitting on the end would work best. I will keep the container and pump for future tranny services only and nothing else.
 

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Update. So I changed this fluid for the first time at 136 k miles (220,000km).
I had noticed a hard downshift from 8 to 7 when giving it some throttle on a grade. After the fluid change the downshift has improved tremendously.
The magnets on the original pan were completely saturated in very fine fillings. It actually looked like a collection of grey grease. I should have done this job sooner.
 

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Update. So I changed this fluid for the first time at 136 k miles (220,000km).
I had noticed a hard downshift from 8 to 7 when giving it some throttle on a grade. After the fluid change the downshift has improved tremendously.
The magnets on the original pan were completely saturated in very fine fillings. It actually looked like a collection of grey grease. I should have done this job sooner.
Good advice, and a good benchmark for others considering the same service.

Which fluid did you go with? Stock pan?
 

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Good advice, and a good benchmark for others considering the same service.

Which fluid did you go with? Stock pan?
I used the Valvoline Maxlife Synthetic. I went with the cheaper OEM pan from Amazon. I do regret not doing it sooner after seeing those magnets covered in smudge but the OEM fluid wasnt too bad.
I will do this again after another 60 to 70k miles.
 

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Did my first trans service at 70k mi and the fluid tested good. Just a little deposit on the magnets. Good choice on the Valvoline MaxLife.

Were you able to get the drain plug loose on the OEM pan? I'm convinced it's non-functioning.
 

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Did my first trans service at 70k mi and the fluid tested good. Just a little deposit on the magnets. Good choice on the Valvoline MaxLife.

Were you able to get the drain plug loose on the OEM pan? I'm convinced it's non-functioning.
Yes. It opened fine. Looks like it was held in place by little plastic tabs moulded into the pan. Fair bit of pressure and it tore loose. I even tightened it back up to stop the flow and regulated the drainage flow.
I had read some posts where people said it wasnt functional.
 

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I am getting ready to change the fluid in my truck in the next couple weeks. I have a PPE trans pan coming and 3 gallons of Valvoline MaxLife coming (pack of 3 gallons for $70 shipped).

For those of you that have done this, I am contemplating adding a hydraulic disconnect on the pan to be able to push the fluid in with a garden pump. I am also tempted to see if I can install a Fumoto drain valve on the fill to avoid having to installing and removing the drain plug next to the exhaust (if it will fit).

Good idea? Waste of time? Too much work for little benefit? Let me know what you think.


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Waste of time. I used a 1gal pump sprayer as a fluid transfer pump. Used 1/2" or 5/8" clear tubing with a 90º plastic elbow on the end. The elbow fitting fit in the fill hole perfectly.

Overall, a very easy service. About $15 total into the transfer pump.
 

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Waste of time. I used a 1gal pump sprayer as a fluid transfer pump. Used 1/2" or 5/8" clear tubing with a 90º plastic elbow on the end. The elbow fitting fit in the fill hole perfectly.

Overall, a very easy service. About $15 total into the transfer pump.
Can you post a pic or grab one off of google that is similar to what you used?
 

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I am getting ready to change the fluid in my truck in the next couple weeks. I have a PPE trans pan coming and 3 gallons of Valvoline MaxLife coming (pack of 3 gallons for $70 shipped).

For those of you that have done this, I am contemplating adding a hydraulic disconnect on the pan to be able to push the fluid in with a garden pump. I am also tempted to see if I can install a Fumoto drain valve on the fill to avoid having to installing and removing the drain plug next to the exhaust (if it will fit).

Good idea? Waste of time? Too much work for little benefit? Let me know what you think.


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Opening the filler plug is very easy , access is clear. I would think trying to pump the fluid through a fumoto would be slow because you wont be displacing the air volume unless you open the filler plug.
Bounty's method will work best.
I used a Pennzoil 1 Gallon Fluid Transfer Pump from Amazon but the pump thread was smaller than the Valvoline bottles. I just had to put the fluid into a clean empty 1 gallon jug.
 

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Opening the filler plug is very easy , access is clear. I would think trying to pump the fluid through a fumoto would be slow because you wont be displacing the air volume unless you open the filler plug.
Bounty's method will work best.
I used a Pennzoil 1 Gallon Fluid Transfer Pump from Amazon but the pump thread was smaller than the Valvoline bottles. I just had to put the fluid into a clean empty 1 gallon jug.
I was thinking about using the Fumoto valve on the filler plug and use an ISO A hydraulic fitting (I already have some that I purchased for work that were not the right style) on the side of the PPE pan. The fill plug would be open when filling from the bottom. Once full, it would be a flip of the valve on the fill port to seal up the transmission. The hydraulic fitting are similar to air fittings, only both the male and female ends automatically close when disconnected.

Using the fumoto valve would eliminate the need to thread and unthread the plug with the hot DFP right there, just a 90 degree flip of a valve.

I’ve narrowed down the thread of the fill plug to 2 different sizes. It would be a matter of making a final ID on size and then seeing if the valve could be installed and safely fit.

It’s probably way more work and money than it’s worth, but I’ve had more time to contemplate such things the last few weeks .


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Your proposed method may make future trans fluid changes very simple. Changing the PPE filter may negate that method.
Please let us know how it works out.
 

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Your proposed method may make future trans fluid changes very simple. Changing the PPE filter may negate that method.
Please let us know how it works out.
After getting under the truck and sizing everything up, I reached the conclusion that it was a bunch of extra work and money for very little benefit.

Stupid drain plug, ended up drilling it out to release the schmoo!




Also sent a sample of oil off to be analyzed.


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That's bizarre. After a slight "snap" my drain plug released and turned in and out no problem.
I have heard of others having problems with it. The hex just slipped in the plug. I was able to rotate it slightly with a bolt extractor, but no joy. Broke out the left handed drill bits .

What I did have issue with that I wasn’t expecting was the coolant lines. Had to loosen the supports to push them out of the way to get the pan in.


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