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I found the fix for the absolutely poor driving lights on these trucks. I just could not believe that was the best lighting they could give us. I saw these KC Hilites in the 4 wheel parts store and thought they might work. I removed the tow hooks and installed the lights in those slots. You just need to drill one hole in each slot and hook up the wiring which goes straight to the battery and install the lighted switch under the dash. Now I must add that these lights are pretty expensive ($400) but they work great. You have to come to the realization of do you want/need tow hooks or would you like to see where hell you're going.

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KC HiLiTES | Flex Single LED Lights for Spread Beam for Motorcycle, UTV, ATV and Offroad Vehicles
 

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If you have projectors, much cheaper and better way is to add HID kit. Just don't go crazy with 55w or more get 35W HID kit and it will work perfect.

I added HIDs to my projectors and LOVE them

BTW you are absolutely right, stock light is absolute JUNK, not just because it looks like old yellow crap but because you can't see anything...

The lights you recommend are great, no doubt, lots of light and power, but they give you round, sorry more like oval light spot on the road, this means, that some light (you like it or not) will end up in oncoming traffic.

The stock lights, especially projectors are outlining the light to your right and are making a "dark spot" on your left. This dark spot is for a reason

This is what your light will look like:

https://static.electronicsweekly.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/07110408/Osram-matrix-headlight-illustration.jpg

And this is what it suppose to be:

http://i.auto-bild.de/ir_img/5/9/4/0/2/3/0ae308e8b1b8a09b.jpeg


The best way is to get some 35w HID if you have projectors but get HID from some reputable company like this:

https://www.diodedynamics.com

I bought my HIDs at amazon for $56 USD and LOVE them.

Be careful, our trucks are very tricky when it comes to adding any headlight upgrades... errors, etc are very common.

Check out this guy video. He has a lot of good reviews for our trucks:

If I were you I would keep this lights for off road use, or when highway is absolutely empty and you want to see deer far ahead, but also add HID kit to you great projectors and use them everyday. You will love my suggestion.

Actually I am thinking about adding some long range light like yours as early deer collision preventive measure for driving empty highways at night.

 

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Holy crap that guy can yammer about nothing for a long time.

So how did you get $56 lights working nicely with the can bus system?
 

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Holy crap that guy can yammer about nothing for a long time.

So how did you get $56 lights working nicely with the can bus system?
Just like that!!!!

Put it on...... DONE

Works great 5000 km no codes no problems .... so far...

I know it sounds tooooo easy, but buying at Amazon and having their "no questions asked 30 day return" makes it easy to try. I tried and it works.

I didn't add anything else, no resistors no other "magic boxes..." I used only kit items and nothing else. They do have their "magic box" which is part of the kit.

I am not a seller of this, product, I just know how hard it gets to make HIDs work sometimes.

This kit simply worked, at least it worked for me.


PS I know this guy likes talking..... may be part of it is simply because he enjoys driving the Ram truck :)
 

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Sounds too good to be true and as my mommy always told me, well, you fill in the rest...
 

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So how did you get $56 lights working nicely with the can bus system?
Probably because they don't hook into the CanBus system.

I wouldn't give up my tow hooks for lights, but that's just me. HID in my projectors and LED in my fogs work great, from CFT Performance INC. .
 

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Pasechnik ^^^^^^^^^^^Give us the link for $56 HID on Amazon^^^^^^
I bought mine at Amazon.com

When I bought mine they had 9005s (5000k I do like white color of 5000k), now I can only see 9006s (6000k color a bit more bluesh)

Here is US Amazon link:

https://www.amazon.com/Aukee-Conversion-Headlight-Canbus-Ballast/dp/B0786Z2M4V/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1520704011&sr=1-3-fkmr0&keywords=Aukee++9005&th=1


Canadian Amazon still have 9005 (but 6000k color a bit more blue, than my 5000k lights)

Here is the link to Canadian Amazon:

https://www.amazon.ca/Aukee-Headlight-Conversion-Canbus-Ballast-6000K/dp/B0776QZLQV/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1520704048&sr=8-2&keywords=aukee+hid&dpID=51RWYiLgEWL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch&th=1




BTW there is almost no difference between 9005 and 9006 bulbs when it comes to HID conversion. You will need to file tabs a bit with a small file.

9005 and 9006 halogens are different because 9005 has its top covered with dark color to avoid blinding other people.
 

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Probably because they don't hook into the CanBus system.

I wouldn't give up my tow hooks for lights, but that's just me. HID in my projectors and LED in my fogs work great, from CFT Performance INC. .
I don't know what you mean by "they don't hook into the CanBus system". How can you avoid this?


I mean I do know how... you just add dummy 50W resistors in place of your stock halogen lights, your CanBus will "think" light bulbs are there and give no codes.

After this dummy mode you simply add any kind of lights using relay and 12v power from other source....




Now I want no be clear :

1. I didn't add resistors (I think dummy load of 100 W is really dummy move)

2. I didn't add any relays or any other controls, switches etc...

3. I took stock halogens out and I hooked HIDs into their connectors right inside headlight housing (you do need to drill 20mm hole in back cover to get wires through for ballasts ets)

4. HID kit came with ballasts and another smaller box connected in series to ballast. They called it some "CAN BUS..."

Look at this picture the top small box filled with clear epoxy:

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71l7P7P-GeL._SL1500_.jpg

This is error free box


I don't get any benefits from this company, I just know how hard to find HID kit that will work in Ram... this is the reason I share this info.
 

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I don't know what you mean by "they don't hook into the CanBus system". How can you avoid this?
Reread the first post. The member installed aux lights by getting 12v directly from the battery. CanBus isn't an issue in this installation.

I get all my CanBus safe HID and LED bulbs from CFT Performance INC. .
 

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Reread the first post. The member installed aux lights by getting 12v directly from the battery. CanBus isn't an issue in this installation.

I get all my CanBus safe HID and LED bulbs from CFT Performance INC. .
I do see how the whole thread is titled:

"I FOUND THE FIX FOR THE POOR RAM DRIVING LIGHTS"

Aux lights are not driving lights and can get you in trouble by some police officers...

So I shared my experience to make driving lights better.... by installing HIDs...

The HIDs I got work absolutely perfect and considering their price $56, they get even better :):)
 

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You will argue the sky is blue lol. I answered your question about CanBus and you still want to argue your point.
 

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I installed some cheap leds in fogs and low beams. They worked great until they didnt just started randomly shutting off. So im back to stock bulbs which work well after adjusting them correctly.
 

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I have Low beams and High beams LEDs in my Jeep WJ Grand Cherokee. I love them, but Jeep has open back headlight housing, and still I replaced my low beam LEDs 3 times already during 2 years.

Out Rams have their headlight housings (I am talking about projector type ones at least) back closed with plastic cover.

LEDs have low power, unless you ovepower them, but as a trade off you have to cool them down very well, or they start to burn out.

I checked my failed LEDs from Jeep and can see small black dots inside LED elements, looking like burned marks. Because most LED lights use many LED elements you don't see a big difference in lighting when one of the elements quits, then another one then... one day you see the difference and some elements start flickering and your LED bulb is a gunner...


Now coming back to Rams I don't see how we can use high power LED bulbs reliably. Even if you find LED bulb which will fit under back cover it will overheat and burn out. The only solution I can see is to keep covers off (as stupid as it sounds...) or have some outside cooling solution like liquid cooling or "heat pipes" or whatever engineers come up...


I can see some LED headlight use some flexible copper wire heat sinks.... If you keep them inside housing their cooling ability will be limited. If you somehow can bring them outside keeping headlight housing sealed it might work....

This is why I used HIDs in my projector headlights and LOVE THEM.


BTW if you have non projector headlights you can convert them to projectors, but it is not so easy.....
 

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HID bulbs update June 2020 almost 50000 km:

The bulbs are still working no flickering no problems of any kind, no codes.

The light is great, not too much, but just bright and clear...

It does take a few seconds to have full brightness but all HIDs have this issue....


I actually came to this thread to see what kit I bought back then as I want to add HIDs to my Land Cruiser...
 

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55 watts is crazy? Not if they are of good quality. My experience is that 55 watt HID lights in projectors is the way to go. Very bright but controlled so you don’t blind oncoming drivers. There is NO issue with start up time because they are at full brightness before you get the truck in gear.
 

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A couple of comments.
1 - Bounty is absolutely correct. Wiring lights direct to the 12v source is 100% outside of the CanBus system.

2 - I modified my halogen quad lights with HID Bi-Xenon Projectors and 55w ballasts. I am running projectors in each of the high and low lights, 4ea 55w projectors are lighted on low and on high. On low, they are adjusted so lights do not hit any oncoming driver in the eyes and about the top of a Camry trunk when pulling up behind a car. I have never been flashed. I have not heard of anyone else running with 4 Bi-Xenon projectors at the same time, on low or on high.

The purpose of my post is to assure the naysayers that 55w running light systems are not a problem if installed and adjusted properly. To the folks who say never put an HID in a quad light reflector, using the right projector negates the quad reflector, the light beam control is all in the Bi-Xenon projector.

My only complaint with HIDs is if they are properly adjusted, and on low, the cutoff is so close and abrupt it is easy to overdrive your headlights. It's okay in the city stop and go driving but on a rural road it is not good. This is where LEDs are king.
 
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