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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Greetings everyone. Been a while since I've been active on here but do occasionally check back.

Lately I've had several issues on my electrical components and switches. Of course my bumper to bumper is gone so its all my dime even though its not even 2yr old. Here is my list:

1. Back up camera - works intermittently. Found the fix to be slapping the 8.4 screen (not too hard). Only time it fails is during the back up camera mode. Radio & all other functions are fine. Once in a while the feed freezes on screen as well. Another tap and it goes live again.
2. Auto up on my drivers side power window (clearing this up for CaptainMal) switch doesn't work anymore. Minor but still annoying.
3. Cruise Control on/off switch - this has been cranky since last fall. Mentioned it when I got my truck engine rebuilt. Nothing done to it and old service manager is now gone.

Mentioned it when it got detailed there last week and they told me they could diagnose it for $110/hr and then whatever time and material to fix after that. Ridiculous!

What issues have you all experienced electrically? Got any fixes other than taking it to the dealer?
 

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If you have the center console, you need to pull the trim ring and top around the storage bin(where the card/phone holder) is, there is a total of 7 screws under the rubber mats on the bottom of the bin and tray. There are 3 more screws(two on top, 1 in the pocket on the right) holding the piece in front of the radio and HVAC controls on. Unplug the wiring harnesses for the HVAC and aux buttons. Careful when pulling the trim ring around the bin up.
Attached are pictures of all the screws that have to be removed to pull the radio.


 

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Discussion Starter #7
If you have the center console, you need to pull the trim ring and top around the storage bin(where the card/phone holder) is, there is a total of 7 screws under the rubber mats on the bottom of the bin and tray. There are 3 more screws(two on top, 1 in the pocket on the right) holding the piece in front of the radio and HVAC controls on. Unplug the wiring harnesses for the HVAC and aux buttons. Careful when pulling the trim ring around the bin up.
Attached are pictures of all the screws that have to be removed to pull the radio.


I have the bench seat. I assume I just need to ignore the instructions for the center console then? Thanks for the pictures and explanation Crash!
 

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My auto-up stopped working on mine a couple weeks ago and they said it lost calibration... They reset it and everything worked fine after that. Of course they'll charge you an hour labor to do it. There has to be a procedure to do it ourselves i would think.
 

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I have the bench seat. I assume I just need to ignore the instructions for the center console then?
The center console parts are already removed then...lol
It's the screw in the pocket above the 120V outlet that I seem to always want to forget to remove.
The latching bars on the radio connectors are a bit of a pain to re-engage.
 

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My lower console buttons (tow/haul, seat cooler, seat heater & traction control) just mysteriously stop working & then come back on later. Uconnect screen will say "Phone system not operational - see dealer". Sometimes Nav won't locate itself & displays an unknown map. EVIC will flash "keyfob not detected" or "door ajar" while driving. Horn will blow when power locks are unlocked & truck is placed in gear. Oh, the Lock 'n go doesn't work right away - you have to push the button many times, the horn will blow, but the locks won't lock. Sometimes the voice commands work & sometimes they won't (this includes Siri commands). The auto highbeams have NEVER worked right, & the steering wheel buttons must be pushed multiple times to get the EVIC display to change screens. Two dealers refused to service the warranty, blaming each other & another said "FCA doesn't pay them to diagnose electrical issues if no code is present". Real great customer service, don't ya think?!

I'm now waiting for my buyback any day now. Since FCA hires a third party to collect buybacks, my attorney said it could be anytime from this week until Thanksgiving. Hurry up & wait! I'll be ecstatic when this pile of junk is gone. One thing I want to do for the members on here or anyone interested in looking at any used ED, is I will post up my VIN, so if this lemon shows up on a lot near you, stay away!

Good luck CB919!
 

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Auto up/down on window uses current draw to detect the end of travel. To force the vehicle to re learn the "stops", perform the following steps;

Turn the key to the run position (or key fob equivalent) so that the power windows are operational. (Let's assume the windows are up to begin with.) Push and hold the "down" button for the driver's window AND KEEP HOLDING THE BUTTON DOWN for 3 seconds AFTER the window is all the way down. Then, lift the button up to get the window traveling up AND KEEP HOLDING THE BUTTON UP for 3 seconds AFTER the window is all the way up. Repeat this sequence 2 times. Turn the key off and back on again and the auto function should now work.

DISCLAIMER: I've never tried this on a Ram truck but this is the re-learn procedure for many cars with auto up/down. If you try it, please let us know the results.
 

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Auto up/down on window uses current draw to detect the end of travel. To force the vehicle to re learn the "stops", perform the following steps;

Turn the key to the run position (or key fob equivalent) so that the power windows are operational. (Let's assume the windows are up to begin with.) Push and hold the "down" button for the driver's window AND KEEP HOLDING THE BUTTON DOWN for 3 seconds AFTER the window is all the way down. Then, lift the button up to get the window traveling up AND KEEP HOLDING THE BUTTON UP for 3 seconds AFTER the window is all the way up. Repeat this sequence 2 times. Turn the key off and back on again and the auto function should now work.

DISCLAIMER: I've never tried this on a Ram truck but this is the re-learn procedure for many cars with auto up/down. If you try it, please let us know the results.
Thanks for that one CoolTech, I didn't know that... The older ones that I have seen actually have a switch built into them that actuates by the increased torque moving the motor shaft to actuate the switch. You can see how out of touch I am... :cool:

I recently had the occasion to replace my mirror switch on my GMC and was really surprised at what I found. The buttons just moved contacts onto un-plated copper PC board pads that had oxidized. A little contact cleaner remedied the problem, but after the fact. I suspect that most of the switches are probably that crappy. In this case the switch would go bad in time, but not by use cycles.
 

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The radio is pretty easy to get to. After you take the screws out work your fingers around the edge and under the bezel. It is pretty tight but just keep working and pulling it and it will eventually pop out. It won't break.

Once the bezel is off the radio should have four screws to remove and then the radio will pull out.

I don't have a schematic so I can't tell you which plug, 2009's are different from the 2013 and up. Pretty sure the wire colors are the same, 3 wires, 1) shield - bare wire, 2) grey/orange - camera return, 3) grey/light blue - camera signal. Just make sure the pins for the wires are pushed in properly and locked.

You could check on Youtube to find videos to help you along.
 

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Speaking of junky electrical components, does anyone know where I can find the outside air temperature sensor on my truck? The outside temp readout intermittently sticks at a fictitious value.
 

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Speaking of junky electrical components, does anyone know where I can find the outside air temperature sensor on my truck? The outside temp readout intermittently sticks at a fictitious value.
Its on the drivers side mirror. Look at the back of the mirror arm (part that faces the front of the truck) and you'll see a small plastic insert - that's the sensor.
 

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Thanks! I looked for it there previously and didn't see it. So, I just went to photograph it to prove you wrong and there it was...:confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The radio is pretty easy to get to. After you take the screws out work your fingers around the edge and under the bezel. It is pretty tight but just keep working and pulling it and it will eventually pop out. It won't break.

Once the bezel is off the radio should have four screws to remove and then the radio will pull out.

I don't have a schematic so I can't tell you which plug, 2009's are different from the 2013 and up. Pretty sure the wire colors are the same, 3 wires, 1) shield - bare wire, 2) grey/orange - camera return, 3) grey/light blue - camera signal. Just make sure the pins for the wires are pushed in properly and locked.

You could check on Youtube to find videos to help you along.
Great info. You guys still rock on here.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
My auto-up stopped working on mine a couple weeks ago and they said it lost calibration... They reset it and everything worked fine after that. Of course they'll charge you an hour labor to do it. There has to be a procedure to do it ourselves i would think.
So this afternoon the auto up started working again. Just gotta love these things.
 

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3. Cruise Control on/off switch - this has been cranky since last fall. Mentioned it when I got my truck engine rebuilt. Nothing done to it and old service manager is now gone.

Mentioned it when it got detailed there last week and they told me they could diagnose it for $110/hr and then whatever time and material to fix after that. Ridiculous!

What issues have you all experienced electrically? Got any fixes other than taking it to the dealer?
Welcome back CB. #3 id my issue. I am also getting a code with it. I need either new buttons or clock spring...or a bad connection.
http://www.ram1500diesel.com/forum/ram-1500-diesel-electrical/13449-p0585-cruise-b-correlation.html
 
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